
Class _^a4>C^ 



Book. 



Gopyri^htN". 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrK 




Mr. and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald 



Missionary Journeys through 
Bible Lands 



Italy, Greece, Egypt, Palestine, Syria 
Asia Minor and other Countries 



Including a Description of Religious and Social Conditions 
in Palestine and Syria, Personal Missionary Experiences, and a Discussiorh 

of Missionary Methods 



By F. G. SMITH 

Author of "Evolution of Christianity," 
"The Eevelation Explained," "What the Bible Teaches," etc. 



I pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beersheba and 
cry, " 'Tis all barren!" — Sterne. 

But warm, sweet, tender, even yet 

A present help is He; 
And faith has still its Olivet, 

And love its Galilee. 

— Whittier. 



GOSPEL TRUMPET COMPANY 
Anderson, Indiana, U.S. A. 



Copyright 1915 
By Gospel Trumpet Company 



L^EC -6 1915 

©CI.A416740 






PREFACE 

Some one has said, "There is no end of books of travel, and no end to 
their sameness." A similar remark might also be made with respect to 
works of history, logic, geography, or algebra. Where identical prob- 
lems are to be handled or identical places and events described, a 
certain degree of sameness is to be expected. But this does not neces- 
sitate identity of statement nor tedious monotony. As each author is 
inspired by a different view of the subject and has a different object in 
its presentation, his personality and individual style is certain to lierid 
freshness and variety to his description, especially if he is writing of 
the charming scenes and scenery of the Holy Land. Furthermore, 
every book, however humble, has its own circle of readers — many of 
whom may never peruse other works of the kind — and therefore has its 
own mission to fulfil. As McHvaine has said, "Vessels of moderate 
draught may go up the tributary streams of public thought, and may 
deal advantageously with the minds of men, where others of heavier ton- 
nage cbuld never reach." 

One characteristic of most books of this kind I have tried to avoid; 
namely, the narration of a large amount of the ordinary details of 
traveling. Why should the reader be constantly burdened with the 
thousand and one perplexities due to inconveniences of travel, such as 
the annoyances caused by carriage-drivers, innkeepers, and beggars .'' A 
few references to such things for the purpose of portraying customs and 
conditions as they exist is sufficient. And instead of mixing together 
in one continuous narrative every variety of subject, I have endeavored 
to give, wherever possible, better form and system to the work by 
arranging particular subjects in classes by themselves, under their 
own appropriate headings. 

The Holy Land is to Christians the most sacred place on the earth 
— not because of what it is today, but because of its rich historic as- 
sociations. To Abraham it was the Land of Promise; to us it is the 



6 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Land of Fulfilment. Here lived and wrote the inspired prophets of old, 
and here the Son of God became incarnate; here Christianity had its 
birth, and from this land went for.th those holy apostles and ministers 
of Christ who delivered that gospel which has descended to us. There 
,j^ laip-^logy bet\yeeu a trip eastward to Palestine and the act of tracing 
,fij ^iyer backward to its source; therefore, regarding Christia,nity as a 
j^|^p,e9.m issuing fro^ the Holy Land, I have placed special emphasis 
.pn; its historic sel;ting.. In addition to this, I have also endeavored 
tc? give the work greater value by a brief description of present-day 
^Religious and Social Conditions in Palestine and Syria, an account of 
JPerspnal Missionary Experiences, and a comparison of apostolic and 
)|i^odern Missionary Methods. 

J J, When these missionary journeys were undertaken, no thought of 
PjLl]blishing a book on this subject was entertained. Our object in going 
|to those countries of the Orient was that we might do something toward 
.Ci^tablishing God's true work in that part of the world. And by way of 
,je|?;planation, I Fpi^ld state that the extra expenses incurred by taking 
^t|\e special trips described in this book were borne privately. 
i,,> It is our earnest desire; and hope that the reader who in these pages 
accompanies us to the earthly Land of Promise will also make the 
j putney to tha^; upper and "better country," that we may meet on 
,t;erms of more intimate fellowship in the "heavenly Jerusalem." 
,,ji Yours and Christ's, 

r,, ■ . F.G.Smith. 

Qrand Junction, Mich., Nov. 6, 19 H. 



PALESTINE : : . 

Blest land of Judea! thrice hallowed of song, 
Where the holiest of memories pilgrim-like throng; 
In the shade of thy palms, by the shores of thy sea, 
On the hills of thy beauty, my heart is with thee. 

With the eye of a spirit I look on that shore. 
Where pilgrim and prophet have lingered before; 
With the glide of a spirit I traverse the sod , 

Made bright by the steps of the angels of God. 

Blue sea of the hills! — in my spirit I hear 

Thy waters, Gennesaret, chime on my ear; 

Where the Lowly and Just with the people sat down, 

And thy spray on the dust of his sandals was thrown. 

Beyond are Bethulia's mountains of green. 
And the desolate hills of the wild Gadarene; 
And I pause on the goat-crags of Tabor to see 
The gleam of thy waters, O dark Galilee! 

Hark, a sound in the valley! where, swollen and strong, 
Thy river, O Kishon, is sweeping along; 
Where the Canaanite strove with Jehovah in vain. 
And thy torrent grew dark with the blood of the slain. 

There down from his mountains stern Zebulon came. 
And Naphtali 's stag, with his eyeballs of flame. 
And the chariots of Jabin rolled harmlessly on, 
For the arm of the Lord was Abinoam's son! 

There sleep the still rocks and the caverns which rang 
To the song which the beautiful prophetess sang, 
Wiien the princes of Issachar stood by her side, 
And the shout of a host in its triumph replied. 

Lo, Bethlehem 's hill-site before me is seen, 
With the mountains around, and the valleys between; 
There rested the shepherds of Judah, and there 
The song of the angels rose sweet on the air. 

And Bethany 's palm-trees in beauty still throw 
Their shadows at noon on the ruins below; 
But where are the sisters who hastened to greet 
The lowly Eedeemer, and sit at his feet? 

I tread where the Twelve in their wayfaring trod; 
I stand where they stood with the Chosen of God, 
Where his blessing was heard and his lessons were taught. 
Where the blind were restored and the healing was wrought. 



Oh, here with his flock the sad Wanderer came, 

These hills he toiled over in grief are the same, 

The founts where he drank by the wayside still flow, 

And the same airs are blowing which breathed on his brow! 

And throned on her hills sits Jerusalem yet, 
But with dust on her forehead, and chains on her feet; 
For the crown of her pride to the mocker hath gone. 
And the holy Shechinah is dark where it shone. 

But wherefore this dream of the earthly abode 
Of Humanity clothed in the brightness of God? 
Were my spirit but turned from the outward and dim, 
It could gaze, even now, on the brightness of Him! 

Not in clouds and in terrors, but gentle as when. 

In love and in meekness, he moved among men; 

And the voice which breathed peace to the waves of the sea 

In the hush of my spirit would whisper to me. 

And what if my feet may not tread where he stood. 
Nor my ears hear the dashing of Galilee's flood. 
Nor my eyes see the cross which he bowed him to bear. 
Nor my knees press Gethsemane's garden of prayer f 

Yet, Loved of the Father, thy Spirit is near, 
To the meek and the lowly and penitent here; 
And the voice of thy love is the same even now ,. 
As at Bethany's tomb or on Olivet's brow. , y 

Oh, the outward hath gone! but in glory and power 
The Spirit surviveth the things of an hour; 
Unchanged, undecaying, its Pentecost flame 
On the heart's secret altar is burning the same! 

— John Greenleaf Whittier. 



CONTENTS 

Preface 5 

Palestine (Poem) • 7 

EASTWARD TO SYRIA 

London 23—47 

The British Museum 24 

Tower of London 33 

London to Milan, Italy. 47-49 

Milan 49-54 

Florence, "the Art City of the World" 54-55 

Pisa 56-58 

Rome 58-68 

The Vatican 68-84 

Rome to Athens 84-87 

Athens 87—96 

Leaving "Classical Antiquity" 96—97 

Alexandria 97—102 

Cairo 102-107 

Cairo to Beirut 107-109 

THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 

Beirut to Alexandria. .... * 113—116 

From Egypt to Palestine 116—122 

Jerusalem 122-161 

Modern Jerusalem 128 

Trip to Jericho, the Jordan, and the Dead Sea 161—177 

The Jordan River 167 

The Dead Sea 170 

Trip to Bethlehem and Hebron 177-191 

Hebron 186 

Visiting the Environs of Jerusalem:. .191—198 

From Jerusalem to Nazareth . 198-243 

Nabulus (Shechem) 204 

Samaria 214 

Nazareth 222 

IX 



X CONTENTS 

The Drive to Tiberius 225-243 

Tiberius 233 

From Haifa to Damascus. . • • 244-251 

Damscus 247 

Baalbeck ■ • • • 252 

TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 

Prom Beirut to Constantinople 261-278 

Constantinople 266 

The Ottoman Museum 273 

Trip to Roumania 276 

From Constantinople to the Syrian Coast 278-289 

Antioch 286 

RjELIGIOUS AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS IN 
PALESTINE AND SYRIA 

Races of People 293-294 

Religion 295-324 

The Druses 297 

The Mohammedans 30.1 

The Jews 312 

The Christians 313 

The Greek Orthodox Church 315 

The Maronite Church 318 

Protestant Missionary Work 322 

PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 

In Syria 327-340 ; 348-355 

In Egypt . 340-312 

In the Balkans 342-344 

In Asia Minor . 344-345 

On the Island of Cyprus . 345-348 

MISSIONARY METHODS 

Paul, the Ideal Missionary 359-372 

Modern Methods 372-376 

A Proper Method 377-381 

HOMEWARD BOUND 

From Syria to Egypt 385-386 

Home by Way of Italy, France, Germany, and Great 

Britain 386-388 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Mr. and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald. .......... .Frontispiece 

Camp-Meeting Group near Belfast, Ireland 23 

The British Museum 24 

The Rosetta Stone • . • ,: 26 

The Tower of London 34 

Houses of Parliament and Westminster Hall 37 

The Cathedral at Milan 50 

Interior of Milan Cathedral . 51 

Church of St. Ambrose , • . . 53 

Florence, Italy . 54 

Panorama of Pisa, Italy 56 

The Leaning Tower 57 

Home from the Dome of St. Peter's 59 

Temple of Vesta 60 

The Catacombs at Rome 62 

Appian Way and Tomb of Cecilia Metella. . 63 

St. Peter's . 64 

Bronze Canopy, High Altar, and Statue of St. Peter 65 

Palace of the Vatican , 69 

Library-Room of the Vatican. , 71 

The Pantheon 74 

The Colosseum 77 

Interior of Colosseum (Restored) 79 

Pilate's Staircase 81 

The Roman Forum 83 

Arch of Titus 84 

Patras, Greece 85 

Canal Near Corinth 87 

Temple of Theseus 88 

Mar's Hill, Athens 89 

Acropolis. Temple of Zeus in Foreground 90 

The Parthenon .91 

Ancient Stairway up Mar's Hill 92 

Prison of Socrates 93 

Caryatid Porch on the Acropolis 94 

XI 



XII LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Tower of the Winds 96 

Theater of Dionysius 9& 

Alexandria, Egypt 9& 

Pompey's Pillar 100 

G. K. Ouzounian and Family, of Cairo, Egypt 103^ 

The Great Pyramid at Gizeh 104- 

Ascending the Great Pyramid lOS- 

Our Party at the Sphinx 106 

Beirut, Syria 108 

Rameses II, the Pharaoh of the Oppression 115 

Jaffa from the Sea 117 

Grave of Tabitha 118 

House of Simon the Tanner 119 

Panorama of Jerusalem 123^ 

Jerusalem Jews 124 

Damascus Gate, Jerusalem 12T 

Tower of David 129- 

David Street, Jerusalem .131 

Pool of Hezekiah 132 

Church of the Holy Sepulcher 134 

Tombs of the Kings 137 

At the Reputed Grave of Jesus 140 

Mount of Olives 143 

The Mosque of Omar. 148 

The Sacred Rock 150- 

Pool of Bethesda ' 155- 

Native with Plow by the Wall of Jerusalem 158 

"Apostles' Spring" Beyond Bethany. 160" 

Good Samaritan's Inn, on the Road to Jericho 162" 

Convent of St. George. .'. 163 

Elisha's Fountain near Jericho 165 

Modern Jericho 166- 

Our Party on the Jordan River 167 

Baptizing in the River Jordan 169' 

The Dead Sea 170' 

Bethany .172 

Tomb of Lazarus 173^ 

The Jews' Wailing-Place . 175 

The Tomb of Rachel. 178 

Field of Boaz near Bethlehem 179' 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XIII 

Christmas Day in Bethlehem 181 

Interior of Church of the Nativity — Bethlehem 183 

The Pools of Solomon 185 

General View of Hebron 186 

Gethsemane from Jerusalem 190 

In the Garden of Gethsemane , 191 

Bethel 200 

Jacob's Well 203 

Nabulus 205 

Samaritan Passover Encampment on Mount Gerizim 208 

Place of Sacrifice on Mount Gerizim 209 

The Samaritan Pentateuch 211 

Grand Colonnade of Samaria 215 

Ruins of "Ivory Palace", Samaria 218 

Mount Tabor 220 

Nazareth 221 

Interior of Church of the Annunciation 223 

Ancient Synagogue at Nazareth 225 

The Virgins' Fountain, Nazareth 226 

Cana of Galilee 227 

Ancient Water-Pot at Cana 228 

Besieged by Young Venders at Cana 229 

On the Mount of Beatitudes 230 

Tiberius, on the Sea of Galilee 232 

Ruins of a Synagogue at Capernaum 236 

Bethsaida 237 

Haifa 238 

Grerald's "Sacrific" on Mount Carmel 240 

Convent on Mount Carmel * 242 

House of Ananias, Damascus 248 

Interior of the Grand Mosque, Damascus 249 

General View of Baalbeck Ruins 252 

Temple of Bacchus 255 

Interior of Temple of Bacchus 256 

Gigantic Block of Stone at Baalbeck 258 

Smyrna , 264 

Constantinople ^ 267 

Mosque of St. Sophia, Constantinople 269 

Interior of Mosque of St. Sophia 270 

Entrance to the Imperial Palace 272 



Xiv LIST OF tLLUSTKATIONS 

Monastery at Ismid (Nicomedia) 276 

Prinkipo Island ......' '.' • - -■'^- • • 277 

Mersina, Asia Minor -.....' 282 

General View of Tarsus " ' 28S 

St. Paul's Gate at Tarsus "......'... ". 284 

Cascades at Tarsus ...... .,. -. . . -. . • . -. -. -.' yV i^.' .' • • • . • • . •■ •'.•.. . . . . 285 

Alexandretta' ... -. . . •. . . . . . -• -. - •• •• . -• • ■• ^ -• -• • • ■• • • • • • • • • • • ;• • • • • • -285 

Antioch, Syria . . . -. . . . . • . . • • . • • • • • • ...... • • • . • .....;.. <. . . 286- 

:^art of Ancient Wall at Antioch. ... . . . ... . ... . . ........ ... .287- 

Cave Church of St. Peter at Antioch. ..... . ... ... : ... . . . • ■ • -287; 

Ancient Rock Relief. .... ........ . V. . . /. . ... . . . . . /. . ; . . . . .28S 

Mr? and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald, in Druse Costume. .. . . 298' 

Mikaret with Muezzin Calling the Faithful ta Prayer.-. ... . .'.- . . .303' 

Moslems at -Prayer. ... ... . . . . . . . . . . ..... . . ;. . ; .-, . . . . . .-i . .305 

]SFativ€ Shoemaker, -Syria-. . . . . . . . . . . . ..-. .... . . . . -. -. -. -. ■. . ... .- . . -.306k 

Women 'Going to Market.-. ... .. . . ....-.-.-..-.-..-.-.-.-.-..■... . j . /.307*^ 

li^Ioslem Women in the Street. ... ... i ...... .. . i . . .".^ . ; .\;-.'. .-.308 

Native- Women Carrying Water. .... .. ^ .:'..-. '~ ■:.'.'.'% .-i-.".': ; . . ; .310 

An Arab Caravan. ......... . ...... . : . V. . , vv. ; ; ; . . . ^. .,. . . .311 

l^a'zareth Women ...-.■.-.-...'...■.....-.'.-.■.-.-.-.'.•.".'.-... ........ .313 

A Grecian Costume. ................ . .-. .V: ^ . : . . . . :\ . . . ; . .1 .318 

Glc^ek Costume . . . . . . -. . . . . . . . . . v . ; .-r. .'.;-.'.. . ^^; ;":.-. .'. . . . ". . 32i2 

A^Mative Porter. .....-.■.-.-. ..-. .■.•...-.■..'. .i^ .;-.—.-. ^% .^T/i . ; . . .327 

^The-Grass' of the Field". ... .....-.-.-.. .r?. .V: :Ki'MKi^: . . . . . 328 

Ai^n^illage Bake-Oven. ........ .. ; . . .^^ . . v". ;^^L vC; S- .'VJ: .... .^:^t> 

W^imen Grinding at the Mill. .■.■.■.•.-.'.-.•.-.'...•.-.-.•.•.■.■.■.■.■.■. .-. : ; ; ~. .33$ 
KStive Women- Washing. ..'.-.■....'.'.■. .=. .-...-.■.•.■.■.■.•.;.-.•.•.•.•.•.•. .'^.333 

As fart of Schweifat, Mount Lebanon^. I'yr.V: . • . • V . . V. ". . • : . . ^33^' 
O&S-Home and Place of Worship in Schweifat. ... ... 1 . : .^ .... .835 

Our First Baptism^ ^Candidates ■in=Syriar.;.^i;; ; .V. . . ?. . . • . '. .'838 
Crowd at a Baptismal Service ill Egif^.. ; i ... ...... . . ; . ...... ;340 

A& Egyptian. Street ■ Scene .-..-.'.'.-. ^^.'. . .-. :'-. . . ; : . . . f . ?;. : . .v.-.'84T 
Kafive. Egyptian Woman and- Bfiby-.-.^.^-. ^'■.\^^'.. '.'.■'. .vr. . ?. ;. .•84| 
A? Roumanian Boy-.'.-.-.-.'.-.'.-.-.'.'.-.'.'..-, .'i'. . /^ V. ; ; .' ;!'.';.. . '. . .' . :BfB 
!^S-enia, . Cyprus ■ ■..........•.■. .■.•.•.^\-vv;.\\ .'. .'.^r:v; . V. ! . Vv. r. . .S^ff 

Mblmtain Castle -of- St. Hilarion-. . . -. -. -. -. -. -. -. •. -. •. -. -. -. -. . -. '. : : : : . \ '■': . SflT' 

f "... J ... »"\ 

AMbian. Women and Native Village... .■.•.-.■.■.•.-.'.•.•.•.•.■. V ;l'"; : .■':'. ^34^8 
li^anon Laborers Returning. -.'/ .^w %>;:■: 'l^I^V-: .':':''.-:^:f.: i'. //.';'; .S'^d 
irrClommon. Burden^Bearer.-.-...'.-.-.-.'.-.^ JlO*^."':^ Vl ?!*i^r?^ /?.1-.-!^ 
laical, Lebanon -Village-. •. ■. -. -. -. •. -. •. -. -/^PfiWl . 'nV:¥h ^'J^}. "J'l .'V^f'f ?M 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XV 

Four Mission Workers in Mount Lebanon 353 

Harvesting in the Holy Land 362 

A Syrian Threshing-Floor 364* 

Pyramid at Sakkara, Egypt 366 

.Obelisk at Heliopolis, Egypt 368 

Egyptian Water-Carriers 371 

Bedouin Tents in Syria 373 

Syrian Peasant Plowing 375 

Church of God Mission, Alexandria, Egypt 379 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 

During several years spent in evangelistic work in different parts 
of the United States I experienced a keen interest in the spread of the 
pure gospel in other countries, and felt that sometime the Lord would 
be pleased that I should have a part personally in planting the truth 
in lands beyond the sea. My chief interest, however, always centered 
in those countries of the East that gave birth to Christianity and that 
for many centuries have been enveloped in spiritual darkness. Finally 
a door of opportunity was opened, and in the month of June, 1912, a 
combination of circumstances impressed more deeply than ever before 
upon my mind, and also upon my wife's mind, the necessity of making 
a decision in regard to going. 

A few months previous to this time Bessie L. Hittle and Minnie B. 
Tasker, wife of George P. Tasker, had received a call to come to Mount 
Lebanon, Syria, to teach in a native school. This suited 
Opportunity Sister Tasker's purpose temporarily, for she and her 

husband had already decided to go in a short time as 
permanent missionaries to India. Therefore in response to this call 
these sisters proceeded to Syria and entered upon their work, while 
Brother Tasker remained some months longer to look "after certafna 
important matters in the United States, before joining his wife enroute- 
to India. 

Shortly after reaching their destination, these sisters began to» 
realize the need of some one whose time could be spent in preaching the- 
word of God to the people; so when we learned of the 
Deciding circumstances connected with their work we began to. 

feel the hand of the Lord upon us to go and to do what 
we could in this respect. It meant much to us to decide to enter uponi 
this work, since its duties and responsibilities would all be new to us; 
for experience gained in our own country might prove to be of little 
practical worth among other peoples, who differed in religions, customs, 
and social conditions. If we had already had a settled work in that part 
of the world, so that we could have gone as helpers, and obtained ex- 
perience in connection with others already experienced, it would have 
been a different matter ; but to start out at the call of God, like Abra^ 
ham of old, who "went out, not knowing whither he went" (Heb. 11 ; 8), 
not knowing what conditions we should have to meet and what responsi' 

19 



20 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

bilities we should have to bear, — meant more to us than one can easily 

realize without personal experience. Furthermore, we were very much 

crowded with work here in our own coiilntry; we were receiving many 

|?iore calls for meetings than we could possibly fill. At that time I had 

a,J[ready arranged for meetings one year in advance. And then the 

t|li()ught of being, separated from the dear saints in America and from 

^11 of pur relatives and loved ones pressed heavily upon our hearts. 

I^ith these thoughts upon our minds, on the second day of July, my 

yifje ai^d I retired to our room for the purpiose of prayer, that we might 

^ft. the matter settled. Brother Tasker had already arranged to sail 

from New York on July 18, en route to India via Syria, and as we 

•desired, to accompany him if we went East, it was necessary that we 

de^cide at once. While kneeling in prayer in that little upper room, 

my sister was playing a phonograph in the room below, and I could 

hear distinctly the beautiful voices of the Edison Mixed Quartette 

singing, 

"fiome, Kome, sweet, sweet home; 
' ' ^e it ev6r so Immble, there's no place like home.", 

But the will of God was dearer to us than the pleasant thoughts of 
^l^home, sweet home." He who left his home of dazzling splendor in 
realms of light beyond, to bring the gospel message to a darkened, sin- 
ful world below, set us an example of sacrifice and self-denial; and 
willingly we stood ready to fulfil our part of his divine command — -"go 

YE INTO ALL THE WORLD, AND PREACH THE GOSPEL TO EVERY CREATURe" 

(Mark 16: 15). 

^ J , Our decision was made. We informed Brother Tasker that if he 
wpuld delay his sailing until July 25 we would be ready to go with him; 
_, ^ ^ and we soon received the reply that he would wait for us. 

J I quickly canceled all of our meetmg dates, and on July 

jl^^e bade farewell to my relatives, and started on our long journey. 
Qur first stop was in Chicago, where we spent about two days with the 
^r^thren in the missionary home, and met many of the saints who came 
to tlie services th?it were held the two nights we were there. We then 
Proceeded to Anderson, Ind., where we remained over Sunday. Wife 
tljenfWentto see her relatives in West Virginia, while I visited three or 
^ouTr (^i th? con^i:egatiQns where we had labored considerably in the 
pasf^/ 4J^out thistim^ I wrote a little farewell note, which was published 
i^rtlie following issue of the Missionarz/ Herald. The note ran thus: 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 21 

A PARTING WORD 

Lacota, Mich., July 18, 1912, 
To the church of God in America: Greeting. 

Before this issue of the Missionary Herald reaches its readers we 
shall be well on our way to a foreign field of labor. We shall sail from 
New York for Liverpool, England, July 25, on the steamer Adriatic, 
enroute to Beirut, Syria. 

For some time we have felt a special interest in the foreign mission^- 
ary work, but until the present time we have been unable to free our- 
selves from responsibilities in this country long enough to undertake 
the work which God has now laid upon our hearts, in the land where 
the light of Christianity once shone so brightly. . We are thankful to 
the Lord that he has counted us worthy of rendering some assistance 
in its restoration. 

The only regret that we feel in undertaking this work is occasioned 
by the thought of separation from the dear ones left behind. Through 
constant work for a number of years in the evangelistic field it has been 
our privilege to become acquainted with thousands of the saints in the 
Tnany congregations where we have labored for Christ and for souls. 
These we have learned to love deeply. How we would enjoy meeting 
you all again and exchanging farewell words before taking our depar- 
ture! While it will not be possible for us to write to all, except as we, 
shall greet you from time to time through the columns of the Missionary 
Herald, still we would certainly appreciate hearing from you all at any 
tijne. It will probably be about a month before we reach our destina- 
tion, after which time our address will be Beirut, Syria, in care of 
British and Foreign Bible Society. The postage rate is five cents. 

We earnestly ask for your fervent prayers to God for us, that we 
may be sustained by his grace and be given the special wisdom which we 
so much need at this time. 

With hearts full of appreciation for the many kindnesses shown us 
ill, the past we now say Farewell. "God be with you till we meet again." 

"A few more days, a few more years 
To tell the dear Redeemer's story; 
A few more crosses, and a few more tears — 
Then away to our home in glory." 

Yours to reveal Christ, 

F. G. Smith and Wife. 



22 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

I then joined my wife and little son Gerald in West Virginia, and 
together we proceeded to New York by way of Washington, Baltimore, 
and Philadelphia, arriving in New York on the evening of July 23. 
Here we found Brother Tasker awaiting us, also Vartan Atchinak and 
Asma Trad, of Syria, who were returning to their country, and who 
expected to accompany us as far as England. 

We sailed from New York City at noon, July 25, 1912, on the 
steamship Adriatic, a spendid ship of 25,000 tons, belonging to the 
White Star Line. Many of the saints from the mission- 
New York ^^y home came down to the wharf with us to see us off. 
As our ship swung out into the river they were soon lost 
to view, then the Statue of Liberty disappeared from sight, and finall}' 
the broad shores of America themselves faded away in the distance, and 
we began to settle down to make the best of an ocean voyage. On 
account of icebergs that were sighted off the bank of Newfoundland on 
the trip to New York, the Adriatic made the return trip to Liverpool 
over the southern route. We got along quite well, although we experi- 
enced a heavy sea for five days during the passage. Wife and I had 
a touch of seasickness. 

We arrived at Liverpool, England, on August 2 and found some of 
the saints waiting for us at the docks. Among the number was Sister 
Alice V. Hale, a missionary who was returning from 
Belfast Ireland I^i^ia. After the customary formality of clearing our 
baggage in the Custom House we proceeded to make 
inquiries and arrangements relative to the remainder of the trip. As we 
were expected at a camp-meeting at Belfast, Ireland, beginning the 
next day, we took ship in a few hours for that place, traveling third 
class or "steerage." We were not obliged to travel third class, but con- 
cluded to make the experiment. We can not forget the experiences of 
that night. The steerage quarters were crowded. It was so cold out 
on deck that we were obliged to go inside, where we received the full 
benefit of a large quantity of tobacco fumes, mixed with more or less 
profanity and drinking, with a little fighting thrown in. Next morning 
the Belfast harbor was indeed a welcome sight, and we rejoiced to meet 
at the dock Brother Allan and Brother and Sister Doebert, whom we 
had known in America. Upon our arrival at the camp-ground we had 
the pleasure of meeting Brother W. H. Cheatham, also a former ac- 
quaintance. 

The camp-ground was located at Glengormly, a suburb of Belfast. 
This was the first camp-meeting which we, as a church, held in the 
British Isles. A number of the brethren and sisters were gathered 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



23 




Camp-SEeetng' Group near Belfast, Irelaiid 

together from England and Scotland, and we had many enjoyable 
services during the ten days' continuance of the meeting. The power 
of God was manifested in saving, sanctifying, and healing ; a sweet spirit 
of love and unity prevailed ; and all were much edified and strengthened 
in the most holy faith. 



LONDON 

After the close of this meeting we returned to England, arriving 
in London on the 13th of August. This city, the capital of the British 
Empire, and the largest city in the world, has a population, approxi- 
mately, of 5,000,000 souls. If we include in the term "London" all of 
the area embraced by the metropolitan and city police districts and the 
parishes within fifteen miles of Charing Cross, the official center of the 
city, the population is nearly 7,000,000, equalling Greece and Denmark 
combined. London became a Roman station when the southern part of 
Britain became a Roman province, during the reign of Claudius Caesar, 
A. D. 41 — 54. During the reign of Constantine, in the early part of 
the fourth century, the Romans walled and fortified it and it became 
an important commercial city. After the withdrawal of the Romans it 
remained in the hands of the Britons until it was captured by the Saxon 
invaders and made the capital of the East Saxons. After the battle of 



24 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Hastings, A. D. 1066, which was decided in favor of WilHam L, London 
submitted to the Conqueror and received from him a charter which is 
still preserved. 

THE BRITISH MUSEUM 

The first place we visited in London was the British Museum, the 
great national museum, which owes its origin to Sir Hans Sloane who, 
in 1753, bequeathed his collection of 50,000 books and manuscripts to 
the nation. This collection has been augmented by numerous additions 




The Britisli Museum 

from time to time until the present day ; and I feel safe in saying that 
nowhere in the world can be found collected together such a vast amount 
of materials of historical, scientific, and literary value. Here we find 
exhibited sculptures, writings, and other remains from the ancient 
Egyptians, Babylonians, Etruscans, Assyrians, Phoenicians, Greeks, 
and Romans, not to mention medieval antiquities and modern works. 
British law requires that a copy of every book, newspaper, pamphlet, or 
piece of music published in British territory must be conveyed to this 
museum ; therefore we may say that almost the entire sum of human 
learning is deposited within its walls. Here the student of history 
could spend months in careful study with the realities of early days 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 25 

before his eyes. But our time was limited, so we could only hope to 
make a cursory examination of this collection aiid then pass on to other 
things. And I can only mention here a very few of the things that we 
were interested in while there. 

We first entered the Room of Greek and Latin Inscriptions. Here 
is built up a pier of the temple of Athena Polias at Priene, on the 

western coast of Asia Minor, with inscriptions referring 
Inscriptions ^^ Alexander the Great and others. There is also a 

long inscription referring to gifts and bequests made by 
C. Vibius Salutaris (A. D. 104), a public benefactor of Ephesus. This 
was cut upon stones which formed a part of the great theater of that 
city. There is a Greek inscription from Thessalonica which contains 
the names of magistrates, styled "politarchs," a local title, quoted by 
Luke in Acts 17:6, 8. Of considerable interest in this room is the 
epitaph in Greek verse on the Athenians who fell before Potidaea. This 
town, which was tributary to Athens, revolted in 432 B. C. Athens 
sent an expedition that succeeded in crushing the rebellion ; but the city 
was thereby brought into direct conflict with Sparta, causing the long 
and terrible Peloponnesian War, which raged until Greece was well-nigh 
ruined and Athens destroyed. 

In the Ephesus Room are arranged sculptures and architectural 

remains from the temple of Artemis, or Diana, at Ephesus. The first 

_. temple of Artemis was begun about 650 B. C, and 

Croesus, the wealthy Lydian king, contributed to its 
building. It required about one hundred and twenty years to complete 
it. It was afterwards set on fire and destroyed b}' a man named Hero- 
stratus, who sought by this means to perpetuate his memory. This 
occurred in 356 B. C, on the night in which Alexander was born. A 
second and more magnificent temple afterwards was erected reckoned as 
one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. This was the temple of 
Diana, which is mentioned in the nineteenth chapter of Acts in connec- 
tion with Paul's preaching in Ephesus. It was destroyed by the Goths 
in A. D. 262. 

The Elgin Room contains sculptures from the Parthenon and other 
buildings in Athens, and was of great interest to us. But as I shall 

have occasion to refer to these things when I come to 

describe our visit to Athens, I will not enter into a de- 
scription here. 

In another room are sculptures from the Mausoleum of Halicar- 
nasus. Mausolus, king of Caria, died in 353 B. C. His wife Arte- 
misia sought to commemorate him by erecting a monument which 



26 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Mausoleum of 
Halicarnassus 



would surpass all others in beauty and richness of decoration. It also 

was reckoned as one of the Seven Wonders of the 

World, and it has given a generic name to all superb 

sepulchers. Pliny says that its height was 140 feet. 

Many beautiful and artistic remains from this ancient tomb are on 

exhibition. 

For lack of time we did not remain long in the Egyptian Rooms, as 
we expected to visit the Museum in Cairo, Egypt, which has the finest 
Ecvnti n Ro s <^ollection of Egyptian antiquities in the world, and 
we had before visited museums containing large collec- 
tions of the usual Egyptian antiquities — gods, weapons, jewelry, tools, 

shoes and sandals, 
vases, toilet arti- 
cles, mummies, etc. 
The most interest- 
ing historical relic 
of this nature that 
I noticed was frag- 
ments of the inner 
wooden coffin of 
Menkau-Ra, a king 
o f the fourth 
Egyptian Dynas- 
ty, and builder of 
the third pyramid 
at Gizeh; also a 
mummy believed 
to be the remains 
of that king, found 
within the pyra- 
mid, and probably 
dating from 3,000 
years before 
Christ. 

But the Rosetta Stone was the chief object of our interest here in 
things Egyptian. It is a heavy block of black basalt that contains a 

decree of the priests of Memphis conferring divine 
The ' ' Biosetta . 

g^Qjjg,, honors on Ptolemy V, king of Egypt, B. C. 195. The 

inscription appears in threie forms — in Egyptian hier- 
oglyphics, in demotic (or the common writing of the people of Egypt), 
and also in Greek. For ages the history of ancient Egypt, with the 




The Rosetta Stone 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 2T 

exception of references to it made by Greek authors, was locked up in 
inscrutable mystery. During the Egyptian campaign of Napoleon in 
1798-99, the French discovered this famous inscribed stone near the 
Rosetta mouth of the Nile. ChampoUion, a French scholar, being 
familiar with Greek, compared the characters in the inscription and 
discovered the meaning of several of the symbols; and by this means 
furnished a key to the rich treasure-house of Egyptian antiquities. 

When we consider what an important bearing the history of ancient 
Egypt, thus deciphered, has had in firmly establishing the authenticity of 
certain parts of the Bible which were formerly assaulted by infidel 
critics, it seems fortunate indeed that this discovery was made. And 
it was all made possible through the military careers of two great men 
of prophetic import. The conquests of Alexander carried the Gre- 
cian language into Egypt and thus furnished conditions which after- 
wards gave occasion for the writing of such an inscription ; and during 
Napoleon's campaign the Rosetta stone was found among the ruins 
of an old fort. It was deposited in the British Museum in 1802. 

We next visited the Assyrian and Babylonian Rooms, where we 
found much to interest us in connection with Bible history. Many 
cylinders, tablets, and inscriptions of various kinds 
Babylonian ^^^ exhibited here. The cuneiform writing of these 

Rooms peoples also remained a mystery until deciphered by 

Sir Henry Rawlinson during the last century. The 
key to its interpretation was found by Rawlinson in the celebrated 
inscription at Behistun, in Persian Kurdistan. On the side of a high 
rock, nearly three hundred feet above the ground, Darius I, king 
of Persia, set forth his genealogy and victories in an inscription exe- 
cuted in three languages — Median, Persian, and Assyrian. It has 
been termed "the Rosetta Stone of the Cuneiform Writings." 

Here again we have a most fortunate discovery for believers in the 
Bible. Since we have been able to decipher these ancient writings, 
explorers are continually digging up additional proof 
Belshazzar ^^ ^^^ authenticity of the Scriptural accounts, to the 

utter discomfiture of a certain class of infidel objectors. 
Just to illustrate this point I will give one particular example. In 
the book of Daniel, Belshazzar is represented as reigning in Babylon 
on the night when the city was captured by the Persians (Dan. 
5:30, 31). But secular history asserted that Nabonadius was the 
last king of the Babylonian empire, ascending the throne in 555 B. C. 
Over and over again this discrepancy was a lever in the hands of cavil- 
ing critics, who rejected the Biblical account and declared Belshazzar. 



^8 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS' 

tb be nothing but a mythical personage. But in process of time, 
among the cylinders of this Nabonadius that have been unearthed 
Appeared one' containing a prayer on behalf of Nabonadius and his 
^6n Belshhzzar. ^ This identical cylinder is now deposited in the upper 
^art of Table-case G, in the Babylonian and Assyrian Room, and we 
had the privilege of seeing it ourselves. So the great objection has 
vanished into thin air; for it is now certain that Nabonadius and 
Belshazzar reigned jointly in the empire, and therefore both accounts 
are true. And this fact furnishes an explanation of Belshazzar's 
promise to make Daniel the third ruler in the kingdom (Dan. 5: 16). 
- Many circumstances related in the Bible about the nation of Israel 
have likewise been challenged, but the Scripture is constantly receiving 
confirmation from the above-mentioned sources, show- 
Narratives^ ing that the Bible accounts are not mythological in 
Confirmed character, but are the records of actual history. In 
2 Kings 18 and 19 we have an account of the campaign 
of Sennacherib, king of Assyria, against Hezekiah, king of Judah. He 
first invaded Judea and captured many of the smaller towns and then 
laid siege to Jerusalem, and Hezekiah, sorely pressed, even stripped 
the temple of its gold in order to induce the Assyrian king to raise 
the siege. But this only proved to be a temporary respite and Sen- 
nacherib returned with an immense army. But Hezekiah prayed 
earnestly to the Lord for deliverance. "And it came to pass that 
night, that the angel of the Lord went out, and smote in the camp of 
the Assyrians an hundred fourscore and five thousand. ... So 
Sennacherib king of Assyria departed." The Assyrian official account 
of this campaign is recorded on a cylinder now on deposit in this 
department of the British Museum. 

In the Nimrod Saloon is an obelisk which was set up by Shal- 
maneser at Nimrod. It is called the "black obelisk." On its four 
sides it gives an account of his expeditions and scenes representing the 
four kings he had conquered, paying tribute to him. Among the num- 
ber appears "Jehu, the son of Omri," king of Israel. 

But in the Nineveh Gallery, Case A, we found something of con- 
siderable interest — a series of tablets giving the Babylonian and As- 
f, Syrian accounts of the creation and the flood. Sit- 

the Flood napistim (the Babylonian Noah) gives an account of 

the flood to Gilgamesh, a mythical hero. "The gods 
determined to send a deluge. Sit-napistim was bidden to build a 
ship, and to embark in it with all his goods, the members of his family, 
and the beasts and cattle of the field. The flood follows ; its abate- 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 29. 

ment; the resting of the ship on the mountain of Nizir, aiid the sending 
forth of a dove, a swallow, and a raven on the seventh day ; and then the 
coming forth from the ship." This account very nearly agrees with 
the one given in Genesis. Abraham, it will be remembered, lived in Ut 
of the Chaldees when he was directed by the Lord to migrate westward 
land start a new nation. So it seems quite probable that the account 
which was handed down through the family of Abrahan;i to the author* 
of the book of Genesis proceeded from the same source from which th^ 
Chaldean account originated. ; 

In the Department of Manuscripts we found much to engage ojlr 
attention and make a deep impression. Here we found our time all 

too short ; but I found an opportunity to return ; to 
Manuscripts ^^^^ department again before leaving the city. In 

classical times, books, both Greek and Latin, were 
for the most part written on papyrus, which was manufactured from 
the stem of an aquatic plant of that name, formerly common in Egyj^t. 
Vellum was also employed to some extent as early as the second cen- 
tury B. C, but was generally regarded as inferior to papyrus. Ir^ 
later times, vellum supplanted the papyrus, being more durable. Iii 
the dry climate of Egypt, however, papyrus manuscripts have rer 
mained well preserved, and large quantities of them have been unearthed 
during the past few years. ^ ; 

The oldest papyrus manuscript in the British Museum is a por- 
tion of Plato's "Phaedo," dating from the first half of the third 

century B. C. It was discovered in the cartonnage 
"Phaedo" °^ ^ mummy-case. Also the only extant portion of 

Hyperides' oration against Philippides, written in the 
first century B. C, is here preserved. Triumphal Odes and Dithyrambs^ 
by Bacchylides, the only extant manuscript of the poet except one 
small fragment; portions of Homer's Iliad and Odyssey, all found 
in Egypt, and dating from the first century B. C, are here exhibited. 
Aristotle on the Constitution of Athens, the only extant manuscript 
of the work except some small fragments, and dating from the firs^ 
Christian century, is also shown. ' 

The sayings of Jesus was an interesting document consisting o|- 
a collection of sayings written on the back of a roll previously us^4 

for another purpose. It was found at Oxyrhyncus in 
Jesus 1903. A leaf of a papyrus book cohtaining the saip<6 

or a similar collection had previously beeXi found in th$ 
same place, and the compilation probably dates f:^onj the beginning of 
the second century A. D., or possibly even from the ;iirst; century. The 



30 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

pari exhibited contains the introduction of the work, as follows : "These 
«ire the (wonderful?) words which Jesus the living (lord) spake to 
. . . and Thomas, and he said unto (them). Every one that hark- 
ens to these words shall never taste of death." It Is written In uni- 
form uncials of the latter part of the third century. 

Another papyrus manuscript gives an account of receipts received 
from passengers and freight carried by boats on the canal by Ptole- 
mais, stating the amount due the royal treasury. It Is dated in the 
twenty-second year, probably of Ptolemy Euergetes, B. C. 226-5. 
Scores of other interesting documents also claimed our attention, 
while hundreds of others we were obliged to pass by for lack of time. 
I can here mention only a few of the things which we saw there. 

The most important of all the manuscripts we saw is a volume of 
the celebrated "Codex Alexandrinus," written in uncial letters on vel- 
lum probably in the middle of the fifth century A. D. 
Alexandrinus" ^^ formerly belonged to the Patriarchal Chamber of 
Alexandria (whence its name is derived), and was 
presented to King Charles I by the Patriarch of Constantinople, in 
1627. It contains both the Old and New Testaments and the epistles 
of Clement of Rome. With the exception of a few small fragments, 
there are only two Greek manuscripts of the Bible which are older than 
this one — Codex Vaticanus, in the Vatican Library at Rome, dating 
from the fourth century, and Codex Sinaiticus, discovered by Tischen- 
dorf at Mount Sinai In 1844, the greater part of which is in the Im- 
perial Library at Petrograd. It also dates from the fourth century, 
and is believed by some to be one of the fifty copies of the Scriptures 
wrhich the Emperor Constantine directed made for use In the churches. 
^(Facsimile pages of the two last-named manuscripts are exhibited in 
-connection with Codex Alexandrinus for the sake of comparison. 

Among the historical documents shown is the Original Bull of 
I Pope Lao XI, conferring on King Henry VIII of England the title 
"Defender of the Faith," which title has been re- 
Documents tained by the English sovereigns until the present day. 
The Bull is dated at Rome in the ninth year of Leo's 
pontificate (1521), and is signed by the Pope and many of his car- 
dinals. 

The occasion for this grant to Henry will probably be remem- 
bered by the reader. When the continental reformers of that century 
began preaching the gospel and opposing the errors of Romanism, 
Henry VIII set himself in opposition to them, and wrote a book against 
Luther ; and the Pope, in gratitude for the service rendered, gave 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 31 

Henry the title, "Defender of the jFaith." A little later, however, 
when Henry desired a divorce from his wife, Catherine of Aragon, in 
order that he might marry Anne Boleyn, and the Pope refused to 
recognize the decree which was given by the universities ; then Henry 
cast off the papal authority entirely, as a result of which the church 
of England became independent of the Romish hierarchy. 

Many royal autographs are exhibited, a few of which I shall men- 
tion: a letter written by Catherine of Aragon, queen of Henry VIII, 

to the king, then in France, with news of the battle of 
Auto^aphs Flodden, dated Sept. 16, 1513 ; a letter by Henry VIII 

to Cardinal Wolsey, dated March, 1518; a letter from 
Anne Boleyn to Cardinal Wolsey, written before her marriage to 
Henry; a letter from Lady Jane Grey, dated from the Tower, July 10, 
1553; also autographs of Queen Elizabeth, James I, Oliver Cromwell, 
the Emperor Charles V, Henry IV, King of Navarre, Louis XIV of 
France, Peter the Great of Russia, Frederick the Great of Prussia, 
and Napoleon I. 

Among the historical autographs and papers is a draft of the Act 
of Parliament known as the "Six Articles," which was passed at the 

instigation of Henry VIII, in 1541. Although Henry 
Historical *' ' , , ° *' 

AutoeraBhs threw off the papal yoke, he had no intention of grant- 

ing religious liberty to his subjects; in fact, he sought 
by this Act of Parliament, known afterwards as the "bloody statute," 
to maintain Rome's theological tenets. It enacted that if any one 
should deny the doctrine of transubstantiation he should be burned; 
and that if any one should affirm that priests might marry or that 
auricular confession was not expedient, etc., he should be guilty of 
felony. The draft of these articles exhibited is in a secretary's hand- 
writing with autograph corrections by Henry; the fifth is entirely in 
Henry's handwriting. Other autograph letters of historical import 
are by Sir Thomas More, Hugh Latimer, Mary Queen of Scots, Sir 
Walter Raleigh, Sir Francis Bacon, Sir Robert Walpole, William Pitt, 
Warren Hastings, Edmund Burke, Charles James Fox, Richard Sheri- 
•den, Benjamin Disraeli, Duke of Wellington regarding the cavalry 
Tinder his command at the battle of Waterloo, and a sketch-plan of 
the Battle of Aboukir generally called the Nile (August 1, 1798) drawn 
l)y Lord Nelson himself. In the corner of the last-mentioned document 
is the following attestation : "This was drawn by Lord Viscount Nelson's 
left hand, the only remaining one, in my presence, this Friday, Feb. 
18th, 1803, at No. 23 Picadilly, the house of Sir William Hamilton, 
late embassador at Naples, who was present. Alexander Stephens." 



S2 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Among the autograph literary works we found the memorandum 
book of Sir Francis Bacon, and Sir Walter Raleigh's Journal of his 
Second Voyage to Guiana. The failure of this expedition, and the 
acts of hostility against Spain done in the course of it, led to his 
execution shortly after his return home. 

Of peculiar interest was John Milton's personal Bible, on the fly- 
leaf of which are entered the births, etc., of himself and 
_° J^ members of his family. Some of these were written 

by his own hand; the rest were written by others after 
he became blind. 

And we also saw the original notes used by William Harvey, the 
discoverer of the circulation of the blood, when he made his first pub- 
lic statement (April 16, 1616) regarding his discovery; the diary and 
note-book of the philosopher John Locke, and the original manuscript 
of "The Compleat English Gentleman," by Daniel Defoe, who is bet- 
ter known, however, as the author of Robinson Crusoe; the "Memoirs" 
of Edward Gibbon, showing the place where he states how he received 
the first impulse to write his "Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire" : 
"It was at Rome, on the 15th of October, 1764, as I sat musing amidst 
the ruins of the capital, while the barefooted friars were singing ves- 
pers in the Temple of Jupiter, that I conceived the first thought of 
my history" ; the autograph manuscript of Sir Walter Scott's "Kenil- 
worth," corrected for the press ; some original autograph works of 
Lord Byron, Shelley, Chas. Dickens, and Lord Macauley's article on 
"Warren Hastings," contributed to the Edinburg Review; George 
Eliot's original manuscript "Adam Bede" ; Herbert Spencer's "Data 
of Ethics" ; William Cowper's "History of John Gilpin," in the poet's 
own hand. Of more than ordinary interest is the original articles of 
agreement, dated April 27, 1667, between John Milton and Samuel 
Symmons, a printer, for the sale of the copyright of a 
Ljjg^,, "poem entitled 'Paradise Lost.' " The amount 

agreed on was £5 (a little less than $25) down, and 
three further payments of £5 each on the sale of three editions of 
1,300 copies each. Signed, "John Milton," with his seal of arms 
affixed. 

I also spent considerable time examining the autographs of other 
literary men with whose names I had become familiar. Among the 
number, I shall mention Shakespeare, Dryden, Sir Isaac Newton, 
Joseph Addison, Pope, Swift, David Hume, John Wesley, Coleridge, 
Carlyle, Darwin, Dickens, Tennyson, Erasmus, Martin Luther, 
Melanchthon, John Calvin, Galileo, Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 33 

Leibnitz, Kant, Goethe. A portion of Handel's original manuscript 
of the anthem, "As Pants the Heart," is exhibited; also fugue in A 
flat, by Bach ; score of the 180th Psalm, by Mozart ; sketch of music 
of "Adelaide," by Beethoven; sonata in F minor (op. 14), by Schu- 
mann; "Fantasia" sonata in G (op. 78), by Schubert; setting of the 
18th Psalm, by Mendelssohn; and sketch of the "People's Chorus," 
melody and bass only, by Wagner. 

With a brief reference to three or four royal books exhibited, 1 
will close this description of our visit to the Museum. One small 
volume, containing the penitential Psalms, Litany, etc., 
in Latin, with autograph inscriptions by Henry VIII 
and Cardinal Wolsey; also a metrical version of the penitential and 
other Psalms, in English, containing a portrait of Henry VIII. This 
volume is said to have been given by Queen Anne Boleyn when on 
the scaffold, to one of her maids. So this unhappy queen carried 
until the hour of her death, the photograph of her husband, who 
committed her to the block that he might be free to marry Jane Sey- 
mour the following day. Another small volume has on the fly-leaf some 
Scriptural verses written by Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, 
"frome the toware [the tower] the day before my dethe, 1551." He 
was executed later. A small Manual of Prayers is also shown, written 
on vellum, and used by Lady Jane Grey on the scaffold, Feb. 12, 1554. 

TOWER OF LONDON 

Our visit to the Tower of London was full of interesting things. 
This celebrated fortress was founded in A. D. 1078 by William the 
Conqueror for the purpose of protecting and controlling the city. 
It covers about thirteen acres and is surrounded by a wall flanked 
with massive towers, outside of which there is a moat, or very wide 
ditch, now dry. There is also an inner wall broken by towers and 
other buildings. In the center is the "White Tower," the keep of 
the old fortress, around which are grouped the chapel, jewel-house, 
barracks, and other buildings. While the Tower would not be re- 
garded as possessing any great military strength in these days of 
improved military equipment, still it was a first-class medieval fort- 
ress. It has been used as a fortress, a palace, and a prison. It was 
occupied as a palace by all of the kings and queens down to Charles II. 
The security of the place, however, naturally made it convenient for 
lodging state prisoners. Many of these were brought in through 
an entrance called the "Traitor's Gate," on the side next to the river 
Thames. Under this very arch of solid masonry many prominent per- 



34 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



sons passed in to spend a long, dreary confinement in the Tower, or 
to be led forth to the scaffold. Among the number may be men- 
tioned Sir Thomas More, Edward, Duke of Buckingham, Queen Anne 
Boleyn, Cromwell, Duke of Essex, Queen Catherine Howard, Lady 
Jane Grey, Princess (afterwards Queen) Elizabeth^ and Edward 
Seymour. 




The Tower of Iiondon 



In front of the Traitor's Gate, and comprising a part of the inner 
wall, is the "Bloody Tower," the upper story of which opens on the 
parade ground, formerly the constable's garden, where 
Bloody Tower g.^ Walter Raleigh was allowed to walk during his 
long confinement. Bloody Tower is believed to be the scene of the 
murder of Edward V and his brother, and Henry VI. In another 
part of this wall, between the Beauchamp and Bell Towers, is the 
house of Partridge, the chief warder, where Lady Jane . Grey lived 
while a prisoner. Here from an outside window she saw her hus- 
band led out to execution on Tower Hill, outside of the walls, and 
his headless body brought in through the gate to the Chapel of St. 
Peter, past the place on the Green within the walls where her own 
scaffold was being erected for the dread work of execution, which 
took place on the same day, Feb. 12, 1554. They were buried in this 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 35 

chapel, as were also Queen Anne and Queen Catherine, all four 
beheaded. 

In a circular apartment called the Wakefield Tower the crown 
jewels and other splendid objects which form the English regalia are 

preserved. The king's crown is perhaps the most 
Wakefield conspicuous object in the case. It was originally made 

Crovra Jewels ^°^ Queen Victoria's coronation, in 1838, but the chief 

jewels which were placed in it were taken from older 
crowns. Among the number is a fine ruby given to the Black Prince 
by Peter the Cruel after the battle of Navarette, April 3, 1367. It 
was worn by Henry V on his helmet at the battle of Agincourt in 
1415. The crown was enlarged for the coronation of King Henry VII 
and contained 2,818 diamonds, 297 pearls, and many other jewels. 
After the discovery in South Africa of the CuUinan rough diamond, 
the largest diamond ever found, measuring slightly over four inches 
in length, the Transvaal government presented it to the English, and 
it was cut in two, one large oblong brilliant weighing 309 3-16 carats 
was placed in the king's crown, which was altered for the purpose; 
while the other part, the largest cut diamond in the world, weighing 
516 1-2 carats, was placed in the royal sceptre with the cross of 
gold and jewels, also on exhibition here. Here also we saw St. Ed- 
ward's crown, which was made for the coronation of Charles II; and 
the baptismal font and basin of silver-gilt, also made for him in 
1660-61, and used at the christening of the sovereign's children. One 
of the last occasions when it was used was at the christening of King 
Edward VII at St. George's Chapel, Windsor. Many other articles 
were also shown. While looking at this splendid collection of royal 
regalia, the earthly value of which can scarcely be estimated, I could 
not avoid thinking of the sorrowful history of some of the English 
sovereigns who have used these very things. Surely it requires more 
than glittering crowns and royal sceptres to bring happiness into 
human lives. Though we shall never be decked with regal splendor 
in Westminster, thank God! we have the heavenly assurance of "a 
crown of glory that fadeth not away." 

The White Tower occupies the central location and is the oldest 
part of the fortress. It is irregular in plan, the four sides being of 

different lengths ; and three of the corners are not 

right angles. Nevertheless, it looks square, and its 
four towers, one on each corner, give the structure an imposing ap- 
pearance and is the principal feature by which we first distinguish the 
Tower of London. It is 90 feet in height from the. floor to the bat- 



36 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

tlements. The interior is of the plainest and sternest character, almost 
every feature of comfort as a place in which to live being sacrificed 
for the one purpose of securing greater strength and security. The 
outer walls, which are of stone, vary in thickness from 15 feet in the 
lower stories to 11 feet in the upper. Ascending a stairway within 
one of the walls we came to a passage which led to the Chapel of 
St. John, which is said to be the largest and most complete chapel 
remaining in any Norman castle. It is 55 feet long, 31 feet wide, 
and 32 feet high. 

Emerging from this chapel, we entered the Armory, where there is 
exhibited an immense collection of arms and armor formerly used. I 

shall not attempt to give an extended description of 

the thousands of interesting things to be seen here, but 
shall briefly refer to only a few things. An equestrian figure is dressed 
in a splendid suit of armor given to Henry VIII by the Emperor Max- 
imilian, in 1514. The armor is engraved with roses, pomegranates 
and other objects, and has on the metal skirt the initials H. & K^, 
referring to Henry and his first queen Katherine of Aragon. 
There is also a suit of armor belonging to James II, all the 
pieces of which bear the king's initials. Here also are exhibited 
curious instruments of torture once employed, some of them 
even in this tower. We saw a beheading-axe which has been here 
since 1687 and the identical chopping-block on which Lord Lovat 

lost his head. The print of the axe used at his execu- 
°^^T,i „i tion is plainly visible on the face of the block. We 

are informed that Lovat's head was severed by a single 
blow of the executioner. But there are two marks on the block; per- 
haps the same block was used for two executions. 

I had often read about the chopping-blocks, but never understood 
how they were formed so as to allow the neck of the victim to rest 
firmly on the block as would be necessary. But I observed here that 
the face of the block was narrow at the place of contact with the neck, 
two sides being hollowed out to allow for the shoulder and head. An 
involuntary shudder crept over me as I looked at this thing and felt 
the edge of the wicked axe. I could not help appreciating the differ- 
ence between the circumstances under which we made this examination 
and those under which Sir Walter Raleigh made it. Condemned to 
death on the block, he first felt the edge of the axe, and then 
said, "This is a sharp medicine, but it is a sure cure for all diseases." 
We next passed the Beauchamp Tower, situated in the inner wall. 
In plan it is semicircular, three stories high. We ascended by a wind- 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



3T 



Beauchamp ing stairway to the middle chamber, which is of con- 

Tower and siderable size. Here many prominent persons were 

Prisoners imprisoned. Having but little to. engage their atten- 

tion during the weary days of confinement, some of 
them have left records in the form of inscriptions cut in the walls of 
their prison. A few of these inscriptions are in the entrance passage 
and on the stair, but the most of them are in the room of which I 
now speak. On the ground floor near the entrance is robart dvdley. 
When his father was brought to the block in 1553, Robert, who was 
Qondemned to die the next year, remained here with his brother, but 




Houses of Farliaiuent and Westminster HaU 

was afterwards released. At the entrance to this chamber is a carved 
cross and other emblems with the name peverel, 1570, supposed to 
have been cut by a Roman Catholic prisoner confined during the reign 
of Queen Elizabeth. Another inscription in Latin reads : "The more 
suffering for Christ in this world the more glory with Christ in the 
next," signed arundel, June 22, 1587. This was Philip Howard, 
whose father was beheaded in 1573. Philip inherited the earldom 
or Arundel, and being a staunch Roman Catholic was confined in this 
place, where he died after an imprisonment of ten years. On the wall 
];iear the fireplace is an elaborate piece of sculpture carved by John 
Dudley, who died in 1554. It is a memorial of his four brothers, one 



38 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

of whom (Robert) I have already mentioned. They occupy prominent 
places in English history, therefore this memorial is aU the more 
interesting. Ambrose was created Earl of Warwick in 1561 ; Guil- 
ford was the husband of Lady Jane Grey, and was beheaded in 1554; 
Robert, after his release, was created Earl of Leicester in 1563, and 
Henry was kiUed at the siege of St. Quentin in 1558. "Under a bear 
and a lion supporting a ragged staff is the name of john dvdley, and 
surrounding them is a wreath of roses (for Ambrose), oak leaves 
(for Robert, robur, an oak), gillyflowers (for Guilford), and honey- 
suckles (for Henry). Below are four lines, one of them incomplete, 
alluding to the device and its meaning." In the window is a mono- 
gram of Thomas Abel. It is a bell with the letter A on it. Dr. Abel 
was the servant of Queen Catherine of Aragon, first wife of Henry 
VIII, and acted as her chaplain during the progress of the divorce 
proceedings. He thus incurred the displeasure of the king, and for 
denying the supremacy was condemned and executed in 1540. 

Passing out of this tower into the open space intervening between 
the White Tower and the Chapel of St. Peter, called Tower Green, 
we came to a small square plot, paved with granite by the orders of 
Queen Victoria. On this spot stood the scaffold upon which private 
executions took place. The usual place of execution was on Tower 
Hill, outside of the walls. On this spot, however, within the walls, 

the following persons were executed: Lord Hastings, 
Place of Private -t^ooa-di j ptt ^tttt 

Executions ^^ 14od; Anne Boleyn, second queen or Henry VIll, 

May 19, 1536; Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, May 
27, 1541; Catherine Howard, fifth queen of Henry VIII, Feb. 13, 
1642; Jane Viscountess Rockford, Feb, 13, 1542; Lady Jane Grey, 
Feb. 12, 1554; and Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, Feb. 25, 1601. 
These were all beheaded with an axe except Queen Anne Boleyn, whose 
head was cut off with a sword. They were all buried in the Chapel of 
at. Peter, adjacent. 

We obtained a view of Buckingham Palace, the London residence 
of the king, but as no admittance was permitted, there was not much 
_ , . ^ , to see. We also saw the houses of parliament, and 
Palace visited St. Paul's Cathedral and some other places 

of interest to travelers; but I will describe only our 
visit to Westminster Abbey. / 

WESTMINSTER ABBEY 
There is but one Westminster Abbey, and a few houi;;s spent in 
this place of historic interest will never be forgotten. The Abbey, a 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



39 



Burial-place of 
the Great 



church, is a remarkable piece of architecture, built in the form of the 
Latin cross, with some modifications. It is the creation of centuries, 
still it is mainly the work of King Henry III. It was opened for serv- 
ices in A. D. 1269, and took the place of another church which was 
the work of Edward the Confessor, who died a few days after its dedi- 
cation, Dec. 28, 1065. It is also certain that the church which the 
Confessor built on this spot 
was the successor of a still 
earlier one which had been es- 
tablished there at least as 
early as A. D. 960. The re- 
puted founder is Sebert, King 
of Essex (died A. D. 616), 
whose tomb is still shown in 
the sanctuary. 

It is generally known that 
Westminster Abbey is a bur- 
ial - place of 
kings, queens, 
and the great 
of many centuries, but how it 
came to possess its unequaled 
historic interest is not so 
generally known. The palace 
of Edward the Confessor 
stood close to the church 
which he erected here, and he 
designated it as his place of 
burial, and was interred before 
its altar shortly after its dedication, as already noted. The Norman 
kings, monks, and clergy vied with each other in honoring his name; 
and when England was oppressed under a foreign yoke the people 
looked back to the reign of the pious Confessor, the last king of the 
old English stock, as to a golden age. So highly was 
Place of ^j^.g ^g^^ "saint" esteemed that kings thought that 

Coronation . ,•> •£ 

of Kings their coronation rites received special sanctity it per- 

formed by his grave; and so it has come to pass that 
every reigning sovereign from the time of William the Conqueror 
(1066) until the present day has been crowned in this place. 

I have already referred to the fact that Henry III began the 
work of building the present church and that it was dedicated in 1269, 




Westminster ATjliey 



40 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



but he did not entirely remove the church which preceded it, leaving 
the greater part of the nave still standing. He removed the Norman 
choir, transepts and central tower, and in place of the low Norman 
structure erected the present magnificent building, which is the high- 
est church in England, being 103 feet from the floor to the top of 
the vaulting. The alteration of the nave from the low former struc- 
ture to the present style was the work of later centuries. 

Henry VIII removed the 
body of the "saint" to the most 
sacred quarter of the new struc- 
ture. He then chose his own 
burial-place on the north side 
of the stately shrine in which 
he had placed the body of the 
Confessor, and later his queen 
and his son, Edward I, were 
also buried there; and thus 
king after king, and many oth- 
er persons of prominence, were 
interred in this church. No 
other spot on the earth can 
claim with certainty the exact 
burial-place of such a large list 
of the world's great men and 
women. Rome, Athens, Jeru- 
salem, ancient Memphis, and 
Babylon were the centers of re- 
markable civilizations which 
gave birth to mighty men, yet 
Westminster Afebey cuoir f^j. ^he most part we know but 

little of their final resting-places ; but here in Westminster we tread 
over the very graves of the illustrious of past ages. 

As already observed, the general form of this church is the Latin 
cross. The part corresponding to the foot or upright piece is 
styled the Nave; the transverse beam is termed North 
Size of Transept and South Transept respectively. The or- 

the Abbey gan and choir occupy a part of the nave just below 

the transverse section, while the part corresponding 
to the head of the cross contains the Sanctuary, back of which stands 
the Confessor's Chapel. Around the head of the cross, thus formed, 
are grouped some small chapels, artistically arranged; while beyond 




EASTWARD TO SYRIA 41 

the Confessor's Chapel at the ordinary end of the cross there is a 
further extension termed Henry VII's Chapel. The plan of the Avhole 
is indeed beautiful. The extreme length of the Abbey is 530 feet, and 
the height of the western towers to the top of the pinnacles is 225 feet. 
In addition to the many prominent persons who are buried in the 
Abbey, there are also many monuments to others who are buried else- 
where. As Addison said concerning the Abbey: "In the poetical 
quarter I found there were poets who had no monuments, and monu- 
ments which had no poets." As my chief interest was in ascertaining 
the actual graves, I shall pass by most of the monuments in this de- 
scription and simply refer to some who are interred here. 

Entering the Abbey by the west front, we found ourselves in the 
nave. Passing down the center we came to the gravestone of George 
Peabody, who was buried beneath this floor, but whose remains were 
afterwards removed to his native town in Massachusetts. Further 
along we passed over the grave of Richard Trench, formerly Dean 
of Westminster, and then we came to the grave of 
Livingstone David Livingstone. Here we paused. We were on 

our way to fields of missionary effort ; and now as we 
stood by the last earthly resting-place of that godly missionary to 
Africa, we could scarcely refrain from weeping, out of gratefulness 
to God for such an example of self-denial. Before our minds passed 
the vision of the years of earnest toil Livingstone spent in darkest 
Africa until death overtook him while alone, kneeling in prayer; of 
the long march of the faithful natives who carried his body to the 
coast; of its shipment to England to be laid away in this very spot 
beneath our feet. 

Passing over many others, we came to the grave of Sir Isaac New- 
ton, the greatest mathematician of modern times. His remarkable 
discoveries and contributions to science are known to 
of Sir ^ ^^^ ^^^ world. His body lay in state in the Jerusalem 

Isaac Newton chamber of the Abbey, and was followed to its rest- 
ing-place before the choir screen, one of the most con- 
spicuous places in the Abbey, by all the royal society and many others 
of the world's greatest men. Voltaire has left us an account of the 
impression made upon his mind on that occasion. He says, "If all 
the geniuses of the universe should be assembled, Newton would lead 
the band." A monument was erected near his grave, and Pope wrote 
an inscription for it, ending in the somewhat extravagant lines, 
Nature and Nature's laws lay hid in night: 
Grod said, Let Newton be! and all was light." 

This inscription, however, was never placed there. 



42 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Close by the side of Newton lies the body of Sir William Thomp- 
son, better known to the world as Lord Kelvin. I can not here enu- 
Lord Kelvin merate his many achievements in the realm of science, 

Major Andre, to which he devoted his long life ; it is sufficient to state 
Lyell, Herschel, tj^at }^q belongs in the same class with Newton. In 
the north aisle of the nave, only a few feet from the 
grave of Richard Trench, lies the body of Sir Charles Lyell, the great 
geologist. In the same aisle, near the organ loft, and close to Newton 
and Kelvin, lie, side by side, the remains of Sir John Frederick 
Herschel and Charles Robert Darwin — the former celebrated for his 
astronomical observations of the heavens ; the latter for his theory 
of the evolution of species. In the south aisle of the nave, near the 
organ loft, is buried the body of Major John Andre, whose name is 
connected with the history of the American revolution. It will be 
remembered that Andre, dressed in civilian's clothes and bearing sus- 
picious papers was captured within the American lines and hanged as 
a spy. He was buried on the bank of the Hudson, but forty years 
later his remains were removed to Westminster Abbey. 

Continuing our way along the south aisle past the choir, we saw 
the monuments which had been erected to Dr. Isaac ,Watts, the father 
Poets' Corner °^ modern hymnody, and to John and Charles Wesley, 
and then we entered the South Transept. Turning to 
the right, we crossed over to the Poets' Comer. The first tomb to 
which my attention was called was one in the wall bearing the name 
of CHAUCER, the author of the immortal "Canterbury Tales," and who 
is called "the father of English poetry." He was born about 1340 
and died in 1400. While looking at Chaucer's monument and think- 
ing of its age we happened to look beneath our feet, and found that 
we were standing over the graves of Lord Tennyson and Robert Brown- 
ing, the two greatest English poets of the last generation. Other 
gravestones in the South Transept belong to the following persons: 
Richard Sheridan, the orator; Samuel Johnson, LL.D., the lexicog- 
rapher; and Sir Henry Irving. Of special interest is one "Thomas 
Parr, of ye county of Sallop, borne in A. D. 1493. He lived in the 
reigns of ten princes; viz., King Edward IV, King Edward V, King 
Richard HI, King Henry VII, King Henry VIII, King Edward VI, 
Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, King James, and King Charles; aged 
152 years and was buryed here November 15, 1635." Here, also lie 
Charles Dickens; George Crete, the Greek historian; and Lord Ma- 
caulay, the English historian. 

Crossing over to the North Transept, we came to the graves of 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 43 

Charles James Fox, the whig orator and leader of the House of 
Commons, and of William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, who was his bitter 
rival, but who, dying the same year, were buried close together in this 
place. Pitt, it will be remembered, opposed the government with ref- 
erence to the severance of the American colonies, and 
Transevt °^ ^^^ ^^^^ appearance in the House of Lords he de- 

livered an impassioned appeal against "the dismem- 
berment of this ancient and noble monarchy," when he fell down in 
a fit, and died a few weeks afterwards. The younger Pitt was also 
buried in the same grave twenty-eight years later. Near the Pitts 
lies the body of William Wilberforce, who will always be remembered 
for his stand against the unnatural institution of human slavery. In 
1791 he sought to introduce in the English Parliament a bill forbid- 
ding the further importation of African negroes in the British colonies, 
and year after year he pressed this measure until it was finally passed 
in 1807. Not satisfied with this, he devoted his entire energies to bring 
about the total abolition of slavery; and three days before his death 
(in 1833) he was informed that Parliament had passed the bill which 
extinguished the practise in the British colonies. Here also lies George 
Canning, the orator, and in the center of the aisle William E. Gladstone, 
the statesman. 

The upper or "head" portion of the cross is doubtless the most 
remarkable and the most interesting part of the Abbey. I have already 

stated that in the center of this part of the church 
"Head" of . . 

the Cross stands the Sanctuary with the Confessor's Chapel im- 

mediately back of it. On each side of this central 
chapel are aisles, termed North Ambulatory and South Ambulatory 
respectively ; while on the outside of these aisles are some small chapels, 
four of which are semi-circular in form, giving a beautiful artistic effect. 
From the South Transept we entered the South Ambulatory. 
Here on the left is an arched recess containing the supposed tomb 
of King Sebert, the traditional founder of the Ab- 
Ambulatory ^^J^ ^ho died in 616 A. D. That the remains of 

this king are really here, however, has not been es- 
tablished with historic certainty. But this much is sure; his grave 
has always been shown since the erection of this building, and is 
also said to contain the bones of his queen, Ethelgoda. When King 
Henry HI was rebuilding the church, he temporarily removed the 
stone coffin containing these remains, and in 1308 it was replaced 
with great ceremony in its present place. On the right-hand side of 
this aisle, under an arch in the wall between the small Chapel of St. 



44 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Benedict and the semicircular Chapel of St. Edmund, is a tomb con- 
taining the remains of Katherine (died 1257, aged five years) and 
three other children of Henry III; also four children of Edward I, 
which were afterwards placed here. 

I shall omit a description of the small chapels on our right as 
we passed eastward along this South Ambulatory. We continued 

our way around to the extreme eastern end of the Con- 
" Shrine" fessor's Chapel on our left and here entered. The chief 

object of attention was the Confessor's "shrine." In 

many of the great churches of the middle ages it was customary to 

place immediately behind the High Altar a shrine containing the 

relics of the patron saint or great benefactor of the church. In 

Westminster this shrine contains the body of Edward the Confessor, 

who has an historic claim to being its founder. The Confessor died 

in 1066 and was buried before the High Altar, and the Conqueror 

erected a handsome tomb over his body. After Henry III completed 

his part of the present building, he and his brother carried on their 

shoulders the body of the Confessor to its present resting-place, in 

1269. To this shrine many pious pilgrimages were afterwards made. 

"Each anniversary, during three centuries, Avas solemnized with the 

greatest splendor, and witnessed a vast accumulation of jewels, and 

images of gold and silver, offered by the pious of all degrees. Not 

only on this day, but at Christmas, Easter, and Whitsuntide, the 

shrine was the scene of prayer and pomp. Strict observers of the 

anniversary obtained indulgences of nineteen years and one hundred 

and three days, and a seventh part of their sins was wiped away." 

Around the shrine rest the bodies of five kings and six queens. On 

the south side in the center is the tomb of Edward III, and at his feet 

„ , , his wife, Philippa of Hainault. Near him rest Richard 

Tombs around tt j /-w * p ^ t • -r ^ n <. 

the Shrine ^^ ^^^ Queen Anne oi Bohemia. In the eastern end of 

this chapel are Henry V and his queen. On the south 
side lie Henry III and Edward I. Henry IV was kneeling here before 
the shrine when he was attacked by his last illness, and was carried 
into the Jerusalem Chamber in the Abbey. He was about to start on 
a trip to the Holy Land, but lived merely long enough to express 
satisfaction that since he could not die in the city of Jerusalem he was 
glad to pass away in the Jerusalem Chamber. 

Another object in this chapel, possessing more than ordinary in- 
terest, is the Coronation Chair. It was made by Edward I to enclose 
the famous "stone of Scone," which he seized in 1297 and brought from 
Scotland to the Abbey. The stone is twenty-six inches long, sixteen 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 4.5 

inches wide, arid eleven inches thick, and is held in the bottom of the 

chair by iron clamps. The traditional accounts of this stone are in- 

«!. • terestinff. It was said to be the stone upon which Jacob- 
Coronation Chair o ^ ^,,-.-1, •!•. . 
rested his head at Bethel; Jacob's sons carried it to 

Egypt ; and from thence it passed to Spain with King Gathelus, son of 
Cecrops. About 700 B. C. Simon Brech, the Spanish king's son, car- 
ried it to Ireland on his invasion of that island. There it was placed 
upon the sacred hill Tara and called the fatal stone, or "stone of des- 
tiny" ; for when the Irish kings were seated upon it at their coronation, 
the stone would groan aloud if the claimant was of the royal race, but 
if he was a pretender, it would remain silent. The founder of the 
Scottish monarchy received it into Scotland and deposited it in the 
monastery of Scone. These traditions concerning the stone may be 
set aside, however, for geologists have shown that it is only Scotch 
sandstone; but it is certain that for centuries it was an object of 
veneration to the Scots, and that upon it their kings were crowned 
down to John Balliol. When Edward seized this stone, in 1297, he had 
a magnificent oak chair built over it, and in this very chair and over 
this identical stone all of the kings and queens of England have been 
crowned from that day down to the present king, George V. It has 
never been removed from the Abbey except once, when Oliver Cromwell 
was installed in it as Lord Protector, in Westminster Hall. 

Leaving the Confessor's Chapel through the northern entrance, we 
passed eastward along the North Ambulatory and mounted the steps 

leading up to the Chapel of Henry VII. This chapel, 
Henrv VII ^® ^ have already observed, forms the extreme eastern 

part of the church, and is an extension of the "head" 
of the cross proper. This chapel is also arranged in the form of a 
cross. Instead of advancing at once to the heart of the chapel, we first 
passed along the aisle on the south side of the nave, and paused at the 
resting-place of Mary Queen of Scots, who was beheaded in 1587. She 
was a dangerous claimant of the English crown and was thus Queen 
Elizabeth's deadliest foe. She was captured by the English, and after 
nineteen years' imprisonment, was executed. Her remains were at first 
buried elsewhere, but James I afterwards had them brought to West- 
minster that the "like honor might be done to the body of his dearest 
mother and the like monument be extant of her that had been done 
to others and to his dear sister, the late Queen Elizabeth." "By a 
strange irony of fate the two queens rest opposite one another in the 
north and south aisles of the chapel, and their monuments, which closely 
resemble each other, were both erected by the impartial James I." A 



46 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

little farther along in this south aisle is a royal vault in which are 
buried: Charles II; Queen Mary II and her husband, William of 
Orange, who (in 1689) were crowned here as joint sovereigns; and 
Queen Anne, the second daughter of James II. 

Entering the nave, we advanced to the heart of the chapel, and ap- 
proached the tomb of its founder, Henry VII and his queen, Elizabeth 
11 Vaiilt °^ York. Here also lie the remains of the king who first 

united the Scotts and the English — James I. Five small 
chapels form the apse of Henry VII's Chapel, but I shall notice only the 
central one, forming the "head" of the cross. Here is the Cromwell 
vault. During the Commonwealth some of the great leaders of the re- 
bellion died and were buried here. The body of Cromwell lay in ?tate 
at Somerset House, and from thence was conveyed to the Abbey by an 
immense train of mourners, and placed here. Ireton, Bradshaw, and 
several of the relatives and friends of the Protector were also interred 
here. But when the Stuarts were restored to power again in the person 
of Charles II, the royalists sought for vengeance. Thirteen of the 
judges who had passed sentence upon Charles I, condemning him to 
death and opening the way for the establishment of the Commonwealth, 
were executed with the most revolting cruelty, their hearts and bowels 
being cut out of their living bodies. But death had already removed 
the leaders of the rebellion, so the royalists took vengeance upon their 
bodies. Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw were dragged from their 
resting-place here in the Abbey, hauled to the Tyburn in London, where 
they were hanged and afterwards beheaded, and their heads set on 
Westminster Hall. Their companions were merely reinterred in an- 
other place. Strangely enough, the remains of Elizabeth Claypole, 
Cromwell's favorite daughter, were left undisturbed north of Henry 
VII's tomb. The northeastern chapel (one of the five small ones) con- 
tains the remains of Anne of Denmark, queen of James I. 

Returning to the entrance to the nave of Henry VII's Chapel, we 
turned aside to enter the north aisle. Passing over the grave of Joseph 

Addison, we came to the white marble tomb erected by 
beth's Toml) James I over Queen Elizabeth, beneath whose coffin rests 

the remains of her half-sister. Queen Mary. The eastern 
end of the aisle is called "Innocent's Corner." Here lie the remains of 
two children of James I — Princess Sophia and Princess Mary. A small 
sarcophagus contains the bones found at the foot of the staircase in 
the Tower, placed here by order of Charles II, in 1674, in the belief 
that they were those of Edward V and his brother Richard, supposed 
to have been murdered by their uncle in 1483. "Edward V may be 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 4.7 

called the child of Westminster, having been born in the Sanctuary, 
where his mother, Elizabeth WoodviUe, took refuge in 1470." 

Returning to the entrance to Henry VII's Chapel, we descended 
the steps, turned to the right, and entered the North Ambulatory. 
Here we passed over a vault containing the historian Clarendon and 
many of his relatives. The Confessor's Chapel, already 
^bulatory described, was on our left, and on the right the semi- 

circular Chapel of St. Paul, wherein lies the body of 
Archbishop James Usher, who arranged the chronology that was after- 
wards connected with the Authorized Version of the Bible. The other 
small chapels on the right did not engage our attention, and we passed 
out into the North Transept again, and made our exit at the North 
Front. 

Our visit in Westminster Abbey was now ended. But I shall never 
forget one thought that was deeply impressed upon my mind on that 
day, and that is the utter vanity of human greatness. Here lie to- 
gether in silence scientists, who in life opposed each other; statesmen, 
who were bitter rivals ; kings and queens who murdered and executed 
others, or were executed by others — all lying together in this "temple 
of reconciliation and peace." 

Mortality, behold and fear! 

What a change of flesh is here! 

Think how many Eoyal bones 

Sleep within these heaps of stones. 

Here they lie, had realms and lands, 

Who now want strength to stir their hands; 

* * * Here are sands, ignoble things 

Dropt from the ruin'd sides of kings: 

Here 's a world of pomp and state. 

Buried in dust, once dead by fate. —Beaumont. 

LONDON TO MILAN. ITALY 

In company with Brother and Sister Otto Doebert, we left London 

on the evening of August 15, traveling by train to Folkestone, where 

Essen, Germany ^^ *^°^ ^ steamer across the North Sea to Flushing, 

Holland. Arriving early next morning, we proceeded 

by train to Essen, Germany. 

At Essen we were met by a number of the brethren and sisters, and 
we remained with them over the following Sunday. We had some very 
precious and profitable meetings with them. 

Accompanied by Brother and Sister Arbeiter we started for Winter- 
thur, Switzerland, on the morning of August 19. On the way we en- 
joyed very much the beautiful scenery alon^ the river Rhine. Exten- 
sive vineyards arranged in terraces up the sides of the high hills added 



48 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

to the natural beauty of the landscape, while the sight of the ancient 

castles brought before our minds in a vivid manner the 
Switzerland stories we have often read concerning these places of 

abode during feudal times. We arrived at Winterthur 
late that night, and were met at the station by a number of brethren 
and sisters who were glad to welcome Brother and Sister Arbeiter back 
to their field of former labors, and who also received us cordially and 
bestowed upon us no little kindness, for which we were truly thankful. 
We had some very precous services with them in their chapel. On the 
morning of August 22 we bade them farewell and renewed our journey 
toward Syria. 

We changed cars at Zurich. While waiting at the station, I could 
not avoid thinking of the past associations of this city, it being the 

center of the preaching of the reformer Ulrich Zwingli, 
"^ in the sixteenth century. And I also remembered with 

sadness the fact that here, as elsewhere, the early reformers failed to 
grasp the true idea of religious liberty, and as a result the persecutions 
of papal Rome were perpetuated to a remarkable extent. Before Zurich 
itself was entirely free from the encroachments of Romanism, its Prot- 
estant council condemned a young man named Felix Mantz to be 
drowned because he rejected the infant-sprinkling of Rome, and taught 
that people ought to be baptized by immersion. This barbarous sent- 
ence was carried into effect. Zwingli was killed at the battle of Kappal, 
in 1531, his dying words being, "They can slay only the body, not the 
soul." The armor which he wore on that occasion is preserved here in 
the National Museum. 

We took a through train over the St. Gotthard railway to Milan, 
Italy. The beautiful Alpine scenery of that day wiU not soon be 

forgotten. As our train wound around the mountain- 
pine cenery g-^gg^ crossed over deep ravines on iron bridges, and 
plunged through tunnel after tunnel, the effect was inspiring. From 
the darkness of a long tunnel, we would emerge suddenly as into the 
brilliant light of another new day, and would see far beneath us a 
lovely mountain lake with quiet dark-blue waters, or perchance a 
mountain stream, rushing downward over the rocks, leaping from point 
to point and churning itself into spray and foam ere it reached a place 
of rest at the bottom ; while far above us towered the snow-capped and 
snow-streaked mountains with summits glistening in the glory and 
splendor of the morning's sun. 

Not alone has Nature richly endowed this part of the world, but 
our attention was called to the fact that human ingenuity had also 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 49 

accomplished wonders here. The St. Gotthard railway itself exhibits 
a most remarkable piece of engineering skill. It was constructed at a 

cost of about $50,000,000. It has 83 bridges and 79 
Gotthard tunnels which have an aggregate length of 29 miles. 

Railway The railroad reaches its greatest altitude in the famous 

tunnel of St. Gotthard. This tunnel is the longest in 
the world. It is about 9 1-4 miles long, 28 feet broad, and 21 feet 
high, and is laid with double track. It requires from 14 to 20 min- 
utes for the trains to pass through. Its construction alone cost about 
$12,000,000. 

Farther along we passed through Como, the birthplace of the Elder 
and the Younger Pliny ; also through Monza, where there is a cathedral 
which was founded in A. D. 590 by Theodolinde, a Lombard queen, 
and which contains the celebrated "iron crown" of the Lombard kings. 



MILAN 

Milan, the capital of Lombardy, is so favorably situated that it 
has always enjoyed a high decree of prosperity. In Roman times it 
was one of the largest cities in Italy, and was in importance second 
only to Rome. Upon our arrival, we proceeded at once to that spot 
which, above all others, claims the attention of the traveler — the 
Cathedral. This magnificent Gothic structure is one 
e a e ra ^^ ^j^^ largest churches in the world, and will hold 
about 40,000 people. It is built in the form of the Latin cross, meas- 
uring 477 feet in length. The nave is 155 feet high, the dome 220, 
and the tower 360. No description which I can give will do justice 
to this so-called "Eighth wonder of the world." It is built of marble 
(even the roof being made of this material), and is adorned externally 
with 98 pinnacles and more than 2,000 statues. Its erection was begun 
in 1386 — more than 500 years ago — and although it looks complete 
it is far from being so. In one part of the church our guide showed 
us nearly two hundred empty niches awaiting statues. The founder 
of this Cathedral gave the quarries from which the marble is taken; 
so there has been but little expense for material. Still the cost up to 
the present date has been more than $110,000,000, It is difficult to 
comprehend the vastness of such a sum of money. 

The pavement of the whole church within is laid out in mosaic style. 
The roof is supported by 52 large fluted columns, or pillars of marble, 
the height of which, reckoning the bases and the capital is about 72 
feet; and their diameter is 8 feet. Jutting out from the walls, are 



50 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 







EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



51 



On the Roof of 
the Cathedral 



half-columns corresponding to the whole ones and also serving to sup- 
port the Gothic vaults. The walls are about 8 feet thick. The capitals 
of the columns are adorned with statues, some containing 8 large ones, 
and others 16, 24, 32, or 48 smaller ones. The ceiling of the vaults 
appears to be sculptured, but it is in reality painted. Over the 5 
entrance doors are 5 large windows filled with glass painted by Bertini^ 
who revived the lost art of 
painting on glass. The inte- 
rior of the cupola or dome is 
adorned with 60 statues and 
bas-reliefs, and the entire inte- 
rior of the church contains 
something like 1,000 statues, 
swelling the entire number con- 
nected with the Cathedral to 
more than 3,000. 

Arriving at the staircase, 
we ascended 158 steps and 
found our- 
selves on th e 
roof of the tem- 
ple. Here we were surrounded 
by a forest of spires and glis- 
tening statues. But we did not 
stop here. We continued to 
mount higher until, having as- 
cended 328 Steps, we reached 
the platform of the great cu- 
pola. Here we had a com- 
manding view of- the entire city, 

with immense plains stretching out in the distance, the whole sur- 
rouTided by chains of snow-crowned mountains. Above us was air 
fixed a very large gilt-copper statue of the Virgin, to whom the tem«- 
ple is dedicated. This central pyramid is surrounded by 136 smaller^ 
ones, each adorned with many beautiful statues. "In every angle of 
the temple the eye is surprised by new beautiesj here the numberless 
gutters, there the surprising creeping arches ; on this side magnifi- 
cent galleries, by that astonishing ogee on the parapets of the different 
stories. The whole is set in order with such a consonant symmetry 
that the structure appears to emanate by incantation. It is here 
tha{ the various and picturesque sceneries strike the bewildered eye 




Interior of Milan Catbedral 



52 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

and excite a kind of shivering on looking at the immense space, which 
is at once embraced." 

From the Cathedral we took a carriage to the church of St. Am- 
brose, founded in the fourth century by that renowned father of the 

church. Here we found ourselves among things truly 
Ambrose ancient. While many of the decorations are the work 

of later years, particularly of the twelfth century, 
still there is preserved much of historic interest antedating these mod- 
ifications of the original structure. Here we stood before the altar 
where Ambrose is said to have officiated, and sat in his chair, which, 
we were told, Charlemagne also occupied while visiting this church. 
In the aisle to the left of the choir is an inscription from the tomb (now 
destroyed) of the emperor Louis II, who died in 875 ; and further 
along is the tombstone of Pepin, son of Charlemagne, who was made 
king of Italy in 810. 

From this place, in the year A. D. 313, the Emperor Cotistantine 
issued his edict of toleration to the Christians, giving Christianity its 
first legal recognition; and shortly afterwards it became the official 
religion of the empire, displacing a millennium of Paganism in the 
Roman State. 

This church is also famous for its connection with Augustine, 
another renowned father of the Western church in the fourth century. 

Augustine's mother was a Christian, but his father 

was a pagan. In early life he was sent to Carthage 
to complete his education, but he disappointed his parents by neglect- 
ing his studies and giving himself up to dissipation and fleshly in- 
dulgences. Discovering a lost book of Cicero's, called *'Hortensius," 
he was led to the study of philosophy; but dissatisfied with this, he 
joined with the Manicheans, but afterwards left them. He went to 
Rome, and then to Milan, where he became a teacher of rhetoric. 
Chancing to enter this very church of which I am now writing, he 
became deeply impressed with the preaching of Ambrose and was 
converted to the faith of his boyhood. He became very much inter- 
ested in the epistles of Paul, and through them a complete change was 
made in his life. At the age of thirty-three, he was baptized by Am- 
brose, after which he returned to Africa, where he became bishop of 
Hippo. From this time he is known to us chiefly through his writ- 
ings, the greatest of which is "The City of God," a vindication of 
phristianity. He is justly regarded as the father of Roman Catholic 
theology. 
; But I could not avoid thinking of this church as a venerable bat- 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



53 



tie-ground, as real as Marathon, Arbela, or Austerlitz. Though the 
nature of the warfare was different, yet at this place, 
Battle-CTOund within these very walls, raged a conflict, which, had 
it not been fought to a successful issue on many bat- 
tle-fields, would have changed the religious history of the world. And 
herein the noble character and determination of Ambrose manifests 
itself. When the 
Arian heresy 
threatened to sweep 
out of existence 
or t h o d o X Chris- 
tianity, A m b r ose 
arrayed himself a- 
gainst it. In this 
struggle he was op- 
posed by Justina, 
mother of Valentin- 
ian II, and for a 
time even by the 
emperor himself and 
his Gothic troops. 
But Ambrose re- 
mained firm, and de- 
nied the Arians the 
use o f a single 
church i n Milan, 
even when Justina, 
in the name of her 
son, demanded that 
two should be surrendered. Nor was this the only feature of his war- 
fare. Symmachus, the Prefect of the city, an eloquent orator, was 
endeavoring to restore the worship of paganism, and this celebrated 
church father joined issue with him. 

But it is not in the realm of theologcal controversy alone that 
the unswerving disposition of Ambrose was displayed. In matters! 
pertaining to discipline, he was exacting and unyielding, which con-^ 
vinces us that he was devoted to the principles of justice and honor 
that he felt obligated in his own conscience to sustain. The manner 
of his dealing with Emperor Theodosius the Great is an illustration 
of this point. When a sedition took place in Thessalonica in the 
year 390, the emperor took revenge upon the offenders by inviting. 




Church of St. Ambrose 



M 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



the people to a public exhibition and then turning upon them his 
soldiers, who slew seven thousand. When Theodosius sought to enter 
this church in Milan, Ambrose refused to admit a man whose hands 
were red with the blood of his fellow creatures. "Outside of the 
church," said Ambrose, "I am your subject, but within the church 
jou are mine." And so for eight months the great Theodosius was 
obliged to occupy a humiliating position among other penitents. 




Florence, Italy 

The bones of St. Ambrose are still preserved in the crypt of this 
church, and by paying a certain fee, we could have had the privilege 

of viewing them. But none of us felt disposed to expend 
Ambrose ^^^ amount required, for the mere purpose of seeing 

a dead saint, when it is our happy privilege to be 
associated with so many living ones. If this ancient father were still 
living, I should be willing to pay a liberal fee in order to see him and 
have a talk with him concerning ecclesiastical conditions in the fourth 
century. 



FLORENCE "THE ART CITY OF THE WORLD" 

We left Milan late at night and arrived the next morning in Flor- 
ence, "the art city of the world." The city is beautifully situated on 
both sides of the river Arno and is surrounded by hills. It dates 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 55 

back at least to the first century before Christ and was of considerable 
importance in Roman times. In ancient times, Rome was the focus 
of Italian development, but in the middle ages Florence succeeded 
it as the center of intellectual life. The modern Italian language and 
literature emanated chiefly from Florence, and the fine arts reached 

the zenith of their glory here. Among the many il- 
trio s Men ' lustrious persons of prominence in the world of art, 

literature, and science, whom this city has produced, 
are Dante, the poet, author of the "Inferno" ; Petrarch, the poet and 
scholar; Leonardo da Vinci, painter; Amerigo Vespucci, a maritime 
discoverer from whom the name America was derived; and Galileo, 
physicist and astronomer. 

We proceeded at once to the most famous art gallery, termed 
Galleria degli UfBzi, one of the greatest collections in the world, both 
in extent and in value. Here, instead of viewing the works of ama- 
teurs or mere copies of well-known subjects, we beheld the original 
works of the greatest masters of the respective arts — works that are 
almost priceless in value. With the space at my disposal I 
will only briefly refer to a few of the things exhibited. Here is the 

Madonna and Child with the Goldfinch, by Raphael, 
Paintines painted in Florence about 1507, and his Pope 

Julius II, painted about 1512 ; the painting of hiS 
first wife, Isabella Brant, by Rubens ; Venus and Cupid, by Tit- 
ian; Madonna and Saints, by Perugino; the Flight into Egypt, 
by Correggio; the Holy Family, by Michael Angelo, executed between 
1501 and 1505. The richness and beauty of these and other paint- 
ings by the old masters can not be described with any great degree 
of satisfaction; they must be seen to be appreciated. 

Here also are many fine sculptures, among the number an antique 
one, Satyr, pressing the scabellum with his feet, believed to be the 

work of Praxiteles, but with head and arms restored 
Sculptures ^^ Michael Angelo ; thus combining in one piece the 

work of the chief disciple of Phidias, the greatest of 
all sculptors, with the work of the greatest sculptor of all succeed- 
ing ages. Here, also is the antique Venus de Medici, from which many 
copies have been made ; the ApoUino ; the Dancing Faun ; the Wres- 
tlers ; and the Group of Niobe and her Children. 

We also saw the Duomo, or Cathedral, the most famous building 
in Florence, dating from the thirteenth century; and also saw, bul 
for lack of time did not enter, the church of St. Croce, which is the 
burial-place of many eminent Tuscans, containing many tombs of such 
men as Galileo, Machiavelli, Alfierl, and Michael Angelo. 



56 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

PISA 

After leaving Florence, our next stop was at Pisa, which is lo- 
cated on the river Arno, six miles from the Mediterranean. It was 
an ancient Etrurian city, and became a Roman colony in the second 
century before Christ, and a flourishing city during the first Chris- 
tian centuries. Here the astronomer Galileo was born of Florentine 
parents (1564), in a house which is still standing. At the age of 




Fanoi*an-.a of Fisa, Italy 

seventeen he entered the University of Pisa, and in 1589 became its 
professor of mathematics. 

We first visited the Campanile, or bell tower, commonly known as 
the "Leaning Tower," a most remarkable piece of architecture, cylin- 
drical in shape, built of white marble, and with the 
The "Leaning , . • i j i • <? • -, 

Tower" exterior enriched by a succession oi six arcades ex- 

tending from base to summit. It is 179 feet high and 
inclines 13 feet from the perpendicular. Its construction was begun 
in 1174 and completed in 1350. Galileo availed himself of its inclina- 
tion in making his experiments concerning the velocity of falling 
bodies. The inside is hollow. While we were standing within the 
ground floor, our guide requested us to try the experiment of stand- 
ing with our backs to the side which inclined toward us, and with our 
heels against the wall. No one in the party could maintain his equi- 
librium in this position, for the inclination of the wall was such that 
we would pitch forward, and be obliged to catch ourselves to avoid 
falling to the floor. 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



57 



We ascended a spiral stairway in the wall and from the top of 

the tower obtained a good view of the surrounding country as well as 

the city itself. While on this platform, we passed around to the 

lower side and looked over the edge. Notwithstanding the fact that 

this structure has stood for centuries and that thousands of people 

ascend it every year, it was hard to resist that peculiar feeling that 

somehow the tower might topple over with us. 

Descending from the tower, 

we passed into the Cathedral ad- 

1 o i n i n a;. We 
The Cathedral "^ ^ ,, 

and Galileo ^^^^ agreeably 

surprised at the 
beauty of its structure and the 
richness of its decoration. It 
was begun in A. D. 1063, after 
a great naval victory over the 
Saracens at Palermo, and was 
consecrated in 1118. It is one 
of the noblest ecclesiastical 
structures of Italy, built en- 
tirely of white marble, in the 
form of a basilica with a rich fa- 
cade and dome of peculiar 
shape, ornamented with black 
and colored bands. The pres- 
ent bronze doors date from the 
year 1602, except one in the 
south transept which was exe- 
cuted in 1180. We entered 
through the last-mentioned 
door. 

The top of the building is supported by sixty-eight antique columns 
captured by the Pisans in war. In the nave a fine bronze lamp, dating 
from 1587, is suspended. Beautiful mosaics by Cimabue adorn the 
dome. It was in this Cathedral that Galileo, when nineteen years of 
age, observing the swinging of a suspended lamp, was led to investigate 
the laws of the oscillation of the pendulum, which he subsequently 
applied to the measurement of time; and it was here that he conducted 
his well-known experiment with the pendulum. 

The Baptistery, which is near the Cathedral, next claimed our 
attention. This building was begun in 1153 and completed in 1278. 
It is a large rotunda, built entirely of marble and adorned externally 




The Iieaniug' Tower 



58 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

with a series of arcades with decorated canopies, and crowned by a 
dome 190 feet high. The interior is richly decorated with reliefs rep- 
resenting the annunciation and nativity, the adora- 
tion of the Magi, the presentation in the temple, the 
crucifixion, and the last judgment. It has a celebrated hexagonal 
pulpit, dating from the year 1260, supported by seven columns, 
above which are the Virtues. The remarkable acoustic properties of 
this building, producing a fine, prolonged echo, never fail to excite 
admiration. An attendant would sound one note of a chord with his 
voice, then change to another note, and the whole would blend together 
in a beautiful harmonious echo. 

Pisa has also a place in ecclesiastical history, being the scene of a 
special council held for the purpose of considering the pretensions of 
the rival popes during the Great Schism. Benedict 
Great Schism XIII, of Avignon, and Gregory XII, of Rome, were 
both reigning on the throne of Saint Peter (?), each 
claiming to be the necessary link in the infallible chain of apostolical 
succession. So when the Council of Pisa convened, in 1409, these 
popes were summoned to appear before it; but both refused, where- 
upon they were both formally deposed by the Council, and Cardinal 
Pietro Philargi, archbishop of Milan, was chosen, who assumed the title 
of Alexander V. But this only made matters worse, for the deposed 
pontiffs refused to lay down their authority in obedience to the de- 
mands of the council; and so there were now three popes instead of 
two. Therefore in 1414 another General Council was called, at Con- 
stance, with the result that two of the claimants were deposed while 
one resigned, and a new pope, Martin V, was then elected. This great 
Schism continued from 1378 to 1414, and yet Romanists would have 
us, believe in an uninterrupted apostolical succession, while they do not 
agree among themselves as to how this thirty-six-year chasm is to be 
bridged. And while this Council was endeavoring to do what- the 
Council of Pisa had failed to successfully accomplish — to patch up the 
wretched affairs of the papacy — it also revealed the true character of 
that system by condemning to the stake the reformers Jerome of 
Prague, and John Huss, which sentence was carried into effect 
forthwith. 

ROME 

On the morning of August 24 we entered Rome, the famous capi- 
tal of the western world. Here on the Palatine hill, the city was 
founded by Romulus and Remus in 754 B. C. Its subsequent history 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



59 




P4 



03 



60 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



through the long course of ages — first under the rule in the affairs of 
the old Roman State, and then in connection with the papacy — fills 
large volumes, but our interest lay chiefly in its connection with 
Christianity. 

At what time the gospel was first planted in Rome, we can not say ; 
but it is certain that a church was established here at a very early 
period in the first century, for Paul, in the year 59 
of^'christianitv A. D., addressed his epistle to the Romans before he 
in Rome had ever visited the place (Rom. 1:1, 7, 13). We 

have evidence of Christianity in Rome at a still earlier 
period. Claudius C«esar reigned as emperor, A. D. 41-54, and Sue- 
tonius, the Roman biographer, informs us that "he expelled from 

Rome the Jews con- 
tinually raising dis- 
turbances under the 
impulse of Chrestos." 
— C h r i st. Sent. 
Claud. 25. That the 
preaching of Christ 
in opposition to pa- 
ganism had a ten- 
dency to raise dis- 
turbances among the 
heathen is evidenced 
from the account of 
Paul's preaching in 
Ephesus (Acts 19). 
It is also easy to understand why a heathen emperor might confound 
Christianity, which was first proclaimed there among the Jews, with 
Judaism itself and thus expel all of that nation. Seutonius does not 
mention the exact date of this expulsion, but Ororius (VII, 6) men- 
tions the ninth year of Claudius, which would be A. D. 50. From. Rom. 
16: 3, 5 we learn that Priscilla and Aquila were members of the church 
at Rome; and Luke informs us that they were among the number 
that were expelled from Rome by Claudius, and that Paul found 
them, shortly after their arrival from Italy, on his arrival at Corinth 
in A. D. 51 (Acts 18:2). Later they again returned to Rome. 

The house of Clement of Rome, where the Christians 
probably met for worship has recently been discov- 
ered beneath a church which was afterwards built over 
the place. In this city, Paul dwelt two years "in his own hired house" ; 




Temple of Vesta 



House of 
Clement 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 61 

and here he suffered martyrdom, being beheaded by the command of 
Nero. 

Securing a carriage and the services of a guide, we started out to 
view as many of the interesting sights as possible. Our first stop 
was at the ancient Temple of Vesta, in which the Vestal 
Virgins kept alive the sacred fire. The Vestals were 
at first four but afterwards six in number. They were bound to vir- 
ginity for thirty years — the term of service — after which they were 
free to marry. They were treated with great honor and respect. The 
punishment of a Vestal who was found guilty of unchastity was bury- 
ing alive. We passed on and saw the tomb of Caius Costius, who 
died in 12 B. C. The tomb is built in the shape of an Egyptian pyra- 
mid, made of bricks covered with marble slabs. It is 116 feet high, 
and the length of each side, at the base, is 98 feet. 

Our visit to the Catacombs possessed extraordinary interest. 
These subterranean passages honeycomb the ground around the city. 

In the early ages, even in the first century, the Chris- 
The Catacombs ,. , ., x. • i i t x- £ 

tians used them as burial-places. In times oi perse- 
cution they met in some of these underground passages for religious 
services, or concealed themselves in the intricate windings from their 
persecutors. Some Christians were slain here. The passages are 
very irregular, branching out in all directions, and are even arranged 
in stories, or galleries, one above another. The graves were arranged 
on each side of these passageways, and were enclosed by a slab on 
which there is an occasional inscription or some Christian symbol,, 
such as a dove, anchor, or palm-branch, or sometimes more than 
one of these. A monk served as our guide; and with lighted tapirs, 
we explored some of these narrow passages, far below the surface of 
the ground, observing graves on every side and inscriptions here and 
there. If I remember correctly, one inscription was dated about 4- D- 
71. The monk informed us that in all of the catacombs where the 
early Christians were buried, the crucifix is not to be found. The rea- 
son for the absence of this and some other things was quite apparent 
to us ; in the early ages of Christianity a great many of the foolish 
mummeries of Roman Catholicism had not yet been introduced. He 
also informed us that there was no distinction between the titles bishop 
and elder in the inscriptions dating from the earlier period. 

an,- A««4o« Emerging from the Catacombs of St. Calixtus, we 

Tne Appian , , . , , , , 

Way entered our carriage and started back toward the city 

along the celebrated Appian Way. This "Queen of 
roads," the oldest and most renowned of Roman roads, was con- 
structed by Claudius Appius in B. C. 313-310. It went direct from 



62 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




The Catacombs at Some 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



63 



the gates of Rome to Capua, and was afterwards extended to Brin- 
disi. It was paved with large, square stones. I remembered that Paul 
traveled along this very road and entered the same gate in the ancient 
city wall. On the way in we stopped by the wayside and entered a 
small church containing a number of interesting things. 




Appian Way and Tomb of Cecilia Metella 

A Roman Catholic legend states that Peter, the first pope of Rome, 
was fleeing from the city during the time of persecution, and that, 

when he reached tliis spot, Christ met him on his way 
and Peter ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^° ^^ crucified. Peter felt the rebuke thus 

administered, and so decided to return and be cruci- 
fied himself, instead of Christ, which, it is claimed, he did. So this 
church was erected on the spot in the original Appian Way where 
Christ met Peter. And here they have on exhibition the very foot- 
print (?) of Jesus that was made in the stone on which he stood while 
talking to Peter. 

But there were a number of things in connection with this story, 
that did not impress us favorably. In the first place, Peter was never 
pope of Rome. It has never been positively proved, historically, that 
he was ever in Rome, though of course it is possible that he might have 
visited the place sometime during his ministry. Then, too, we could 
not understand how it happened that the particular stone on which 



64 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




p^ 



CQ 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



65 



Christ stood at that time was marble, while the rest of the Appian 
Way was only ordinary stone. Moreover, the imprint in the marble 
was so very large as greatly to tax our credulity to think that Jesus 
was of sufficient size to correspond with it. And, finally, we noticed 
another peculiar feature: the impression in the marble was flat, no 
allowance being made for the arch of the sole, which would naturally 
be shown if the imprint was actually made by a human foot. On the 




Bxonze Canopy, Higrh Altar, and Statue of St. Peter 

whole, we were inclined to believe that the story originated some time 
during the dark ages, when such traditions and impositions were read- 
ily accepted by the superstitious multitudes. 

After a carriage drive in the parks, from which we obtained a fine 
view of the city, we returned to our hotel for the night. 

In the morning we proceeded by carriage to St. Peter's, the 
Cathedral of Rome, the largest and one of the most magnificent 
churches in Christendom. It is situated on the south 
side of the Vatican, on the legendary site of St. Peter's 
martyrdom and place of burial. In A. D. 306, Constantine the Great 
erected on this spot an obelisk of great magnificence. It was here 
that Charlemagne received from the hands of the pope the Roman 
imperial crown, on Christmas day, A. D. 800, at which time the empire 
of the West, afterwards known as the Holy Roman Empire, revived 



St. Peter's 



p6 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

3,nd continued until the time of Napoleon. Many succeeding emper- 
qrs were also crowned here. The original edifice having almost fallen 
to ruins, Nicholas V determined to reconstruct it; but not much was 
done. Julius II (1503-13) decided on the erection of an entirely new 
building— the present one. The magnificent dome, as well as some 
other parts of the building, is the design of Michael Angelo. After 
his death, extensive modifications were made which, in the external 
appearance at least, greatly mar the real beauty and splendor which 
the unrivaled skill and architectural ability of Angelo had conceived. 
But, after all of these changes, St. Peter's is the largest and most 
imposing, if not the most beautiful, church in the world. Its area is 
18,000 square yards, while the Cathedral of Milan is 10,000, and St. 
Paul's of London 9,350. 

There are five entrance doors to the, church, but the one on the 
extreme right, called Porta Santa, has never been opened except on 
the years of jubilee, which occur every twenty-five years. The last 
occasion was in 1900. Within the nave, close to the central door, is 
a round slab of porphyry on which the emperors were formerly 
crowned. Further up the nave, on the right, is the Sitting Statue of 
St. Peter, in bronze, a work of the fifth century. One foot of this 

statue protrudes in front, and here we saw crowds of 
Peter's Toe people — the young and the old, the richly dressed and 

the poorly clad — all pressing their way up to this 
place and devoutly kissing the foot. We came up and examined it, 
and found that nearly all of the great toe, and part of the foot itself, 
was worn away by this process. That such gross idolatry is possible 
in these days of enlightenment seems almost incredible, but here we 
saw it with our own eyes. 

The magnificent dome rests on four huge towers 234 feet in cir- 
cumference, and rises to a height of 308 feet above the roof, and is 

630 feet in circumference. Beneath the dome rise four 
Dome and • 1 1 m j j • i i i* 

Transepts richly gilded, spiral columns, supporting an imposing 

bronze canopy, 95 feet in height. Beneath the canopy 
is the High Altar, consecrated in 1594, where the pope alone reads 
mass on high festivals ; while beneath the altar is the supposed 
tomb bf St. Peter. The right transept was used for the meet- 
ings of the last General Council of the Catholic Church, which 
convened in 1870. At this Council the dogma of the infallibility 
of the pope, which had been assumed for ages was adopted. The left 
transept contains confessionals for ten different languages. 

Over one of the doors of the church is a tomb in which the body 
of the most recently deceased pope rests Until his tomb is provided 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 67 

elsewhere. The remains of Leo XIII were placed in this tomb in 
July, 1903, and when we were here, had not yet been removed. As 
we were about to depart from the Cathedral, we noticed a party enter- 
ing, one of whom carried in her arms a very small 
In^nt infant. As they turned towards the baptismal font, 

we also drew near to observe the ceremony. A priest 
and his assistant went through an extended ceremony containing a 
large amount of Latin, while the poor little innocent babe, who was 
being involuntarily made a member of the church of Rome, bore its 
tribulations with considerable patience. This apostate church insti- 
tuted the practise, and now many Protestant churches are satisfied to 
accept and perpetuate it. 

But while we were viewing these splendid objects of churchly 
magnificence, which dazzle the eye and captivate the minds of many, 
I could not help but meditate on the true character 
of the Panacv °^ ^^^ papacy back of all this. Of what use is exter- 
nal magnificence and display if there be not true char- 
acter beneath.'^ Our guide pointed out some of the most disgusting 
objects in statuary, placed right in the interior of St. Peter's, por- 
traying conditions which I can not here describe. He also informed 
us that his father had been connected with the service of the Vatican 
for about forty years and was in a very good position to understand 
something about internal conditions, where no wives reside. 

The student of history will have no difficulty in remembering that 
Pope Sergius III was (to quote the words of Baronius, the papal 
annalist) "the slave of every vice and the most wicked of men." His 
association with the prostitute Marozia, and the birth of their son 
John, who afterwards became Pope John XI, is also a matter of history. 
And yet Romanists talk to us about a holy apostolical succession. 
Perhaps the infallible (?) Pope Victor III was right when he denom- 
inated Sergius "a successor of Simon the sorcerer, and not of Simon 
the apostle." And the acts of the infamous Pope Alexander VI stand 
out upon the page of history with a prominence which convinces us 
that more is required than the surrounding walls of the Vatican to 
insure anything like holiness, and that Rome is not the place in which 
to find the true holiness of God. This last-named monster of vice 
once gave a splendid entertainment to no less than fifty public pros- 
titutes within these very walls of the Vatican, at which time deeds of 
darkness were done which I can not here describe, and that in the 
presence of his own daughter Lucretia. "It is a shame even to speak 
of those things which are done of them in secret." 

I would not infer, however, that all of the leading men in the 



68 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Church of Rome are or were immoral. It is difficult for me to believe 
than any Christian religious society could be wholly corrupt morally. 
That church doubtless contains in its membership men who lead ex- 
emplary lives so far as morality and virtue are concerned. But I 
refer to past events to show that their boasted uninterrupted holy 
apostolical succession is only a fraud, and that it does not accord with 
the facts of history as recorded even by their own writers. 

THE VATICAN 

Immediately north of and adjoining the church of St. Peter's is 
the Vatican, the largest palace in the world, and the dwelling-place 
of the popes. When we sought admission, we found that for certain 
reasons it was closed for two days. This was quite a disappoint- 
ment to us, for as our sailing date on the Adriatic was already settled 
and passage secured, we were unable to remain in Rome long enough 
to have the opportunity of visiting this place. But on our return 
journey from Syria we spent the greater part of two days in the 
Vatican, and I will here refer to that visit. 

On the site now occupied by the Vatican, Nero's gardens were 
formerly located, and in these gardens during the Neronian perse- 
cutions, about A. D. 64, Christians were wrapped in the skins of wild 
beasts and then torn to pieces by dogs ; or were wrapped in inflam- 
mable materials and burned as torches to furnish lights for the em- 
peror during the midnight games. 

The Vatican palace now contains twenty courts and about one 
thousand halls, chapels, saloons, and private apartments. Here the 
conclaves meet for the election of new popes. The greater portion 
of the Vatican is set apart for collections and show-rooms, and im- 
mense treasures are stored up in them. 

The principal entrance is at the end of the right colonnade of 
the Piazza of St. Peter. Here we passed the Swiss guards, which 
are always stationed there, ascended a magnificently decorated stair- 
case, and proceeded to the room of the Director, in order to obtain 
our "permesso." Our guide then took us to the Galleria degli Arazzi 
to view Raphael's Tapestry, which is reckoned among 
Tane^rv ^^ treasures of the Vatican. These admirable pieces 

of art, very large in size, are hung along the side of 
the gallery. They were originally intended to cover the lower and 
unpainted part of the walls of the Sistine Chapel. The tapestry was 
executed from designs from the history of the New Testament, drawn 
by Raphael in 1515 and 1516, which are among the finest of the great 



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69 




70 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

master's works. They were wrought at Brussels in wool, silk, and 
gold, but some of the colors, especially the flesh-tints, are now con- 
siderably faded. So perfect is this work that the observer, standing 
a little distance away and admiring these lovely scenes, can scarcely 
detect that these are not actually painted on the walls instead of 
being worked on cloth. 

We then visited the Borgia Apartments, so called from the family 
name of Pope Alexander VI. These rooms, five in number, were 
neglected after the sixteenth century, until the late Pope Leo XIII 
ordered their restoration. The ceilings and walls are adorned with 
Biblical and mythological scenes, bust-portraits of popes, etc. 

The Vatican Collection of Antiquities is the finest in the world. 
Thousands of objects of almost priceless value — ancient Mosaics^ 
The Museum sarcophagi, statuary, etc., are here' exhibited; but 

since the average reader would not appreciate the long 
list of names of these objects, I will not attempt to give them. They 
are intensely interesting to behold, but are not easily described. 

The Vatican Library is an extensive and most important collection 
of books and manuscripts. The number of printed volumes has been 
estimated at from 150,000 to 220,000, and the val- 
uable manuscripts estimated at about 25,600. W^e 
were chiefly interested in the Codex Vaticanus, to which reference has 
already been made. In addition to the manuscripts and printed vol- 
umes the library contains some remarkable works of art and a large 
number of costly gifts presented to the popes by kings, emperors, and 
other noted personages. 

Our second day's visit at the Vatican was still more highly inter- 
esting, for our time was spent in viewing the many rich paintings of 
the old masters which have elicited the admiration of the whole world 
of art. So numerous are these works, and so varied in design and 
execution, that I do not feel disposed to tax the patience of the reader 
with more than a meagre description of two or three choice exhibits. 

After visiting the Picture Gallery, we gave our attention to 
Raphael's Stanze — the papal state-apartments of the Vatican, the 
frescoes of which were executed by Raphael in 1508 to 
g^g^jj^e 1520 by order of the popes Julius II and Leo X. This 

work is unquestionably the foremost among the cre- 
ations of that master. The task of decorating these rooms was not, 
however, committed to Raphael at first, but was being executed by 
other celebrated painters one of whom, Perugino, introduced the young 
Raphael, whose work soon so far surpassed the others that the work 



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71 




72 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

was entrusted to him exclusively. The walls and ceilings of these 
rooms are decorated with a great variety of Biblical, theological, 
mythological, and medieval historical scenes. They must be seen to 
be appreciated; for one can not any more describe such scenes accu- 
rately than one can perform the task of executing such admirable 
work. 

Our next place of interest was Raphael's Logge, where we admired 

his excellent ceiling paintings, descriptive of Old Testament history. 

Until 1813 the Logge was open, and the paintings 

xq therefore suffered somewhat from exposure to the 

weather, but it has since been enclosed with glass, which 

admits the light while protecting the work. 

The vaulting is divided into thirteen sections each of which con- 
tains four Biblical scenes in quadrangular borders. The first and 
second vaults represent the story of creation; the third, the flood and 
the story of Noah; the fourth, fifth, and sixth represent events in the 
lives of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; Joseph is the subject of the 
seventh; Moses, of the eighth and ninth; Joshua, of the tenth; David, 
of the eleventh; and Solomon, of the twelfth; while the thirteenth 
depicts the nativity, the baptism of Christ, and the Last Supper. 

Our visit to the Sistine Chapel possessed more than ordinary inter- 
est, for this is probably the most noted apartment open to the public 
Sistine Chapel ^^ ^^^ Vatican. Here, since our visit, the Cardinals 
met for the election of the present pope, Benedict XV. 
The length of the chapel is 133 feet, width 45 feet. The space set 
apart for the clergy is beautifully decorated with marble screens. 
The lower and unpainted part of the walls were formerly hung (as I 
have already observed) with Raphael's Tapestry, while the upper part 
is decorated with beautiful frescoes executed by Florentine masters. 
These frescoes represent (on the right) incidents from the life of 
Christ, and (on the left) incidents from the life of Moses. 

But the most celebrated part of this chapel is the ceiling paintings, 
executed by Michael Angelo, 1508 to 1512. Whether these ceiling 
paintings or Raphael's Stanze are to be regarded as the greatest 
effort of modern art has long been a subject of controversy, but I 
think that the decision is usually awarded to the Sistine Chapel. When 
the task of painting this was first given to Angelo his subject was 
limited to the twelve apostles, but perceiving the poverty of such a 
design he prevailed upon the pope to allow him to extend it. At this 
point Angelo's skill as an architect manifested itself, and shows how 
closely such skill can be associated with painting; for he invented an 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 73 

imaginary structure with pillars, columns, and cornices in bronze and 
marble, which rises from the walls and encloses in the flat, central 
part of the vaulted ceiling nine sections. With these the central pic- 
tures blend harmoniously. While viewing these columns and cornices 
we were ofttimes led to believe that they were actually real, for they 
appeared to stand out in rehef from the wall, but when we would take 
another position we could see that there was no projection of the wall, 
and therefore the column must be merely a painted imitation. 

I will let Ascanio Condivi, a pupil of Michael Angelo, give e. 
description of the central scenes: "In the First Section of the ceil- 
Central Scenes ^^g (reckoned from the altar), which is one of the 
smaller ones, you observe in the air God Almighty, who 
with the motion of his arms separates light from darkness. In the 
Second Section he creates the two great lights of the world, his out- 
stretched right hand touching the sun, and the left the moon. In 
the same section God is again represented as engaged in creating the 
herbs and plants on the earth. He is portrayed with such art that 
wherever you turn he appears to follow you, showing his whole back 
down to the soles of his feet — a very excellent work, proving what 
can be done by foreshortening. — In the Third Section God appears 
in the air, surrounded by angels, regarding the waters, and command- 
ing them to bring forth all those kinds of animals which that element 
nourishes. — In the Fourth Section (the most impressive and thought- 
fully worked out composition of the series) the creation of man is 
represented, and God is seen with outstretched arm and hand, causing 
life to stream through Adam's limbs by touching him with his fore- 
finger. With his other arm, he encloses a group of angels. — In the 
Fifth Section God draws from Adam's side the woman, who with folded 
hand stretched out towards God, bows herself with a sweet expression, 
so that it seems she is thanking him, and that he is blessing her. — 
In the Sixth Section the Demon, in female form from the waist up- 
wards, and otherwise a serpent, coils himself round a tree ; he converses 
with Adam and Eve, whom he persuades to disobey their Creator, and 
hands the forbidden fruit to the woman. In the second part of the 
section you see the pair, driven out by the angel, fleeing, terrified and 
sad, from the presence of God. — In the Seventh Section Noah's thank- 
off'ering is represented. — In the Eighth Section is seen the flood, with 
Noah's ark on the water at a distance, and a few persons clinging to 
it in hopes of saving themselves. Nearer is a boat crowded with peo- 
ple, which, owing to its undue load and to the numbers of violent 
shocks of waves, is already shipping water and threatening to sink. 



74,' 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Still nearer the eye appears above the water the top of a mountain 
T^here a number of men and women have sought refuge as if on an 
island; they show different emotions, but they all cower, miserable; 
and terrified, under a tent stretched over a tree, to shelter them- 
selves from the excessive rain. And in this scene the wrath of God is 
represented with great art, for he sends upon them lightnings, waters, 




The Fanth«on 



and storms. There is also another mountaintop on the right side 
with a group of people on it in similar distress, but it would take tod 
long to describe each one of them. — In the Ninth Section, the last, is 
narrated the story of Noah, who, when lying drunken and naked on 
the ground, is mocked by his son Ham, but is being covered by Shem 
and Japheth." 

About thirty years after painting this ceiling Michael Angelo 
painted on the altar wall of this chapel "The Last Judgment," a 
scene measuring sixty-four feet in width and thirty- 
two feet in height. But this is now considerably black- 
ened by smoke. The nudity of many of the figures 
caused this work to receive a great deal of criticism, until Paul IV 
contemplated its destruction on this account, but later yielded to the 
advice of others and caused certain of the figures to be draped. But 
this later painting does not harmonize well with the original, there- 



The Last 
Judgment 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 75 

fore the artistic character of the work was marred rather than 
improved. 

Leaving the Vatican, we drove at once to the Pantheon, the only 
ancient structure at Rome whose walls and vaulting are still in a per- 
The Pantheon ^^^^ state of preservation. It was built by Marcus 
f Agrippa in 27 B. C, and, as the name indicates, was 
dedicated to all the gods. It is circular in shape, with a portico borne 
by sixteen Corinthian columns of granite, each 41 feet high. The 
walls are 22 feet thick, and were faced with marble. It has the finest 
dome in the world, its height, and breadth are equal — 143 feet. The 
entrance is still closed by its ancient massive bronze doors. The sur- 
face of the walls within is broken by several large niches in which 
stood the statues of the gods. 

In A. D. 609 Pope Boniface IV consecrated the Pantheon as a 
Christian church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and the Saints. And 
so the idolatry which had been practised for centuries under the pagan 
form was continued, the Romanists bowing down in the very same tem- 
ple and before the same kind of images, and praying to them for the 
very same purpose; and the practise is still going on in this ancient 
edifice. 

This elegant structure has, however, been robbed of much of its 
ancient splendor. In 1632 Pope Urban VIII removed the brazen 
tubes on which the roof rested, and caused them to be converted into 
columns for the liigh altar of St. Peter's. The white marble, 
porphyry, and serpentine decorations of the attic story were bar- 
barously replaced by whitewash in 1747. The inside of the dome is 
still nicely adorned. Within this temple are the tombs of King Victor 
Emmanuel II, and Humbert I; and Raphael and other distinguished 
men are also interred here. 

The Capotoline Museum contains, after the Vatican, the most 
important collection of antique sculpture in Rome. We enjoyed our 
visit to this place, but as it is difficult to write of these things in a 
way that will be interesting to the readers, I will omit such. 

We passed by the column of the Emperor Trajan (A. D. 98 — 117). 
This emperor extended the limits of the Roman empire beyond the 
Danube in Europe and the Euphrates in Asia. To 
•jiyg^j^jj commemorate his Dacian conquests he erected this re- 

markable column, 147 feet high, around which runs a 
spiral band from base to summit adorned with admirable reliefs of 
animals, machines, and thousands of human figures. The column is 
almost as perfect as when erected, eighteen centuries ago. Trajan 



76 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

was buried beneath its base, and his statue occupied the summit until 
the year 1587, when one of the popes replaced it with a statue of St. 
Peter. In the interior a staircase ascends to the top, but we did not 
enter. 

We also drove past the Tarpeian Rock, a precipitous rock form- 
ing part of the Capitoline Hill. In the early days of Rome, persons 
Tarpeian Bock convicted of treason to the State were thrown over 
this place and dashed on the rocks below. The name 
is derived, it is said, from Tarpeia, a Vestal Virgin of Rome and 
daughter of the governor of the citadel on the Capitoline. Covet- 
ing the golden bracelets worn by the Sabine soldiers, she opened the 
gate to them, in the promise that they would give to her what they 
wore on their left arms. But when they had gained access, they threw 
their shields upon her instead, and crushed out her life; and she was 
buried at the base of the Tarpeian Rock. 

The Flavian Amphitheater, better known as the Colosseum, next 
engaged our attention. This is the largest theater and one of the 
The Colosseum most imposing structures in the world. It was begun 
by Vespasian, and completed by his son Titus in 
A. D. 80. In shape the building is elliptic, the exterior length being 
620 feet, and its breadth 513 feet. The ground story was pierced 
with eighty openings over which were superimposed three other stories, 
the whole rising to the height of 160 feet. The northeast portion is 
still well preserved, and its first three stories are formed by arcades, 
the pillars of which are adorned with half-columns of the Doric, Ionic, 
and Corinthian order. The arena is about 280 feet long and 174 feet 
wide, around which rise in tiers, to the top, rows of seats said to have 
accommodated 87,000 persons. The raised seat of honor, occupied 
by the emperor, also the places where the Vestal Virgins and the sen- 
ators sat, are still shown. 

This structure was erected in order to furnish a place for gladi- 
atorial combats which, at that stage of Roman history, had grown 
into popular favor with the masses. They cared but little for the 
usual tragedy of the theater: the real scenes of violence and blood in 
the arena alone could satisfy their perverted desires. The passage- 
ways through which the wild beasts were admitted to the arena can 
still be seen, and in this place we had our photograph taken. The 
Colosseum probably derives its name from a colossal statue of Nero, 
118 feet high, which stood near it. 

When the Colosseum was dedicated by Titus, the gladiatorial 
combats lasted one hundred days, during which time 5,000 beasts were 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



77 




78 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

slain. Later, Trajan celebrated his victories with still longer exhi- 
bitions. But the contests decided in this arena were not between beasts 
and men alone, for men were pitted against each other, 
Combats and fought in every conceivable way. When a wounded 

gladiator had fallen, his life was in the hands of the 
audience. If, through lack of skill or bravery, he had incurred the 
displeasure of the populace, they extended their hands with thumbs 
turned up, which was the signal for the victor to finish his deadly 
work; if they turned their thumbs down, the life of the vanquished 
was to be spared. 

But the Colosseum has also a sanguinary connection with Chris- 
tion history; for here, in times of persecution, thousands of the fol- 
lowers of Christ were exposed, unarmed, to the ferocity 
The Colosseum „ ., -u u 4. u u- i, ii, 4. 

and Christianity y^ild beasts, by which they were torn m pieces. 

We noticed that on the sides surrounding the arena 
there were many cages enclosed by iron doors, and were informed that 
the victims were imprisoned in these places there to await the time when 
they should be exposed in the arena. Oh, the horror for those who 
were looking out through the bars and witnessing the terrible sight 
of innocent men and women being torn in pieces and devoured by the 
ravenous beasts, and knowing that their own turn would soon come! 
The reality of such a scene beggars all description. But such was 
heathenism about the time of the so-called golden age of the Roman 
Empire. 

It is worthy of notice that the pagan moralists did but very little 
to condemn these spectacles, and the philosophers generally regarded 
them with indifference. Thus Pliny commends a friend for giving a 
gladiatorial entertainment at the funeral of his wife. But Chris- 
tianity arrayed itself against these inhuman exhibitions. The Chris- 
tian Fathers denounced them as decidedly immoral, and labored to 
create a public sentiment against them. They would not tolerate 
among their number a person who attended them. Thus to Chris- 
tiahity alone belongs the credit of their suppression. The last exhibi- 
tion occurred during the games which closed the triumph of Honorius, 
A. D. 404. In the midst of the exhibition a monk named Telemachus 
protested against the scenes by entering the arena and rushing in 
between the combatants. He was instantly killed by a shower of mis- 
siles from the hands of the angered populace. Honorius, who was 
present, was moved by this scene and issued an imperial edict "which 
abolished forever the human sacrifices of the amphitheater." 

For ages this neglected structure was used for a stone-quarry, 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



79 




80 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

furnishing material for the erection of numerous buildings, until Pope 
Benedict XIV (1740-1758) protected the edifice from further demo- 
lition by consecrating it to the Passion of Christ, re- 
Stone- ferring to the blood of the martyrs which had flowed 
quarry freely therein. It is estimated that as much as two- 
thirds of the original building has disappeared; but, 
in its ruins, the structure is still stupendously impressive. An arch- 
itect of the eighteenth century estimated the value of the materials 
yet remaining as equivalent to $2,500,000. The CoUosseum has al- 
ways been regarded as a symbol of Rome's greatness, and gave rise 
to the saying of the pilgrims in the eighth century: 

"While stands the Colosseum, Eoniv; shall stand; 
"When falls the Colosseum, Eome shall fall; 
And when Eome falls, with it shall fall the world." 

It is said that the Colosseum presents the most striking appear- 
ance by moonlight, when the huge mass produces a general effect un- 
impaired by the ruin of the details. To view this marvelous struc- 
ture, every part of which reflects, as it were, its historic associa- 
tions, is to receive a profound impression that will never be for- 
gotten. 

Near the Colosseum stands the Triumphal Arch of Constantine, 
the best preserved structure of its kind in Rome. It was erected by 
Constantine after the victory over his rival Maxentius, in 312, at 
which time Constantine declared himself in favor of Christianity. 

Passing by Piazzo Campo di Fiore, we observed in this square a 
bronze statue of Giordano Bruno, who was burned as a heretic on 
this spot, Feb. 17, 1600. He asserted the plurality of worlds, con- 
trary to the decrees of the Church of Rome. In 1633 Galileo was 
compelled to go to Rome and appear before the inquisition to an- 
swer to similar charges ; but with the fate of Bruno fresh in mind, 
the veteran philosopher was constrained to renounce upon his knees 
the truths he had maintained. 

We proceeded to the Palace of the Lateran, which was the resi- 
dence of the popes from the time of Constantine down to the migra- 
tion to Avignon, in 1309. We did not pause here, 
Church of the but entered the Church of the Lateran adjoining— 
menical Councils ^^^ ^f the most remarkable churches in Rome. It 
was chiefly interesting to me from the fact that it was 
the scene of the Councils bearing that name. Five of these Councils 
of the Lateran are termed Ecumenical, and some of their acts are 
noteworthy, outlining in an authoritative way Rome's policy regard- 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



81 



ing the persecution and extermination of heretics. It is contained 
in the second General Council of the Lateran (1139) in its twenty- 
third canon; in the Third General Council of the Lateran (1179); 
and the fourth General Council of the Lateran, under Pope Inno- 
cent III, in which the Waldenses were condemned and a crusade 
ordered against them. And yet some people affirm that Rome never 
persecuted. While we were standing in the nave of this church, my 
mind filled with memories awakened by the sight of the statue of Bruno 
in the public square; there passed before me in panorama, as it 
were, the scenes of past ages 
within these very walls ; the 
doctors of the Romish sect in 
General Council, the popes 
themselves heading the list; 
their decrees of anathema 
against heretics ; the assertion 
of their right to destroy all who 
differed with them; and, finally, 
the fearful results of the sub- 
sequent crusades against the 
Waldenses, Albigenses, and 
Vaudois, whose blood flowed 
freely. What a reyelation in 
that great day when the long 
list of martyrs chfirgeable to 
the atrocity of Rome shall be 
fully known! 

Emerging from the church, 
we entered an edifice located op- 
posite the 
northeast cor- 
ner of the Lat- 
eran, which contains the Scala 

Santa, commonly called Pilate's Staircase. Here is a flight of twenty-' 
eight marble steps said to have belonged to Pilate's judgment hall in 
Jerusalem, the ones that Christ ascended on the night of his trial. 
The claim is made that they were brought to Rome by the Empress 
Helena, mother of Constantine, in the year 326. It may be ascended 
only on the knees, and at the top is the crucifixion scene. For ages 
it has been held in great esteem, and many popes and so-called holy 
men have ascended it, with bared feet and on their knees. From a 



Pilate's 
Staircase 




Pilate's Staircase 



^2 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

priest who was stationed near the foot of these stairs, we obtained a 
card giving the following information, which may be accepted as 
authoritative : 

"The devotion of the Scala Santa is practised by going up on 
one's knees from one to the other of its twenty-eight steps, meditating 
meanwhile on the Passion of our Lord; or reciting vocal prayers in 
memory of his sufferings. An indulgence of nine years, applicable 
to the souls in purgatory, is granted to those who perform this pious 
exercise with a contrite heart (Pius VII, Oct. 24, 1819). . . . 
His Holiness Pope Pius X, by an autograph Rescript of Feb. 26, 
1908, grants a plenary indulgence in pepetuum, applicable to the 
souls in purgatory and to be gained toties quoties by any one who, 
meditating on the Passion of our blessed Lord, ascends on his knees 
the holy stairs." 

Here we stood and watched the throngs of people who were thus 
working their way up these stairs in an endless stream. Judging from 
appearances, one would say that they were rich and 
Holv Stairs poor, and people of all classes. They seemed not to 

regard in the least the fact that they trailed through 
the dust and dirt left by those who had preceded them. With looks 
(and no doubt feelings) of piety, they hesitated on each step before 
advancing to the next, penitently repeating prayers in an earnest 
manner and occasionally bending low in order to kiss the steps in 
certain marked places where it is said that the blood of our Lord 
trickled down. And this operation has been in progress for centuries. 
When Martin Luther visited Rome in 1510, he was penitentially 
ascending on his knees these very stairs when he seemed to hear an 
inner voice declaring, "The just shall live by faith." This led to 
an entire change in Luther's life, and was the beginning of the 
Reformation. 

I can not describe the feelings of sadness which came over us on 
witnessing the blind devotion of these poor, deceived people, who im- 
agine that by such foolish exercises they can obtain 
of the Vatican " ^^^ favor of God. The number of penitents is so 
great that to avoid wearing away the marble steps, they 
are covered with wood, the covering being replaced from time to time 
as necessity requires. But the popes no longer ascend these stairs ; 
the last ascent was made by Pius IX on Sept. 19, 1870. That year 
marked the downfall of Rome's temporal sovereignty and the estab- 
lishment of the kingdom of United Italy, since which time the poDe 
is only "the prisoner of the Vatican," to use an expression of Pius. 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



83. 



Now, when one of the cardinals is consecrated as pope, he never again 
goes outside of the Vatican and St. Peter's, until he is conveyed to his 
sepulchre. 

Leaving the scenes of Christian (?) paganism behind, we turned 
aside to take a parting view of some of the remains of Rome under 
the pure pagan form. We drove to the site of the 
ancient Roman forum. It was here that the greatest 
scenes in the history of the Roman State were en- 
acted. Augustus arranged the edifices of the forum, and their mag- 
nificence was enhanced by decorations of marble and bronze columns, 



The Boman 
Fonun 




The Roman Forum 



triumphal arches, etc. The forum remained practically intact until 
the sixth century, after which for a thousand years it was used as a 
quarry, many churches and other buildings obtaining their blocks, 
of stone and marble from this source; and thus the forum became a. 
heap of rubbish. Modern excavations, however, have done much to- 
ward bringing to light the exact location of many of the former 
edifices, by disclosing some of their remaining ruins. Here stand eight 
unfluted columns of the Temple of Saturn, which was consecrated in 
B. C. 497, and was used as a public treasury. Here also are three 
columns of the Temple of Castor (B. C. 484), and the Arch of Septi- 
mus Severus. ' • 



84'^ 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Temple of 
<Caesar 




Arch of Titus 



"'We also saw some of the remains of the Senate-house wherein Julius 
C!^sar fell beneath the daggers of the conspirators. On the east 
side of the forum, where we stood, was situated the 
Temple of Caesar, of which only the concrete core 
of the substructure now remains. In front of this 
teiriple, Caesar erected an oratorical tribune, a part of which still re- 
mains. It was from 
this platform that 
Mark Anthony de- 
livered his celebrated 
oration over the body 
of Julius Caesar (B. 
C . 4 4), whi ch 
wrought so powerful- 
ly on the passion^ of 
the excited populace 
that they straight- 
way accorded the de- 
ceased unparalleled 
h o n o r , by burning 
the corpse in the sight of the most sacred shrines of the city. A little 
later Augustus erected a temple in honor to Julius, his deified uncle. 

Within sight of us stood also the Triumphal Arch of Titus, com- 
memorating his defeat of the Jews (A. D. 70) when he overthrew Jeru- 
salem. The arch contains in relief a representation 
of^Tttus^ of the triumphal teturn of Titus to Rome, showing 

the captive Jews, the table of showbread, and the 
^dlden candlestick with seven branches, brought from the sacred tem- 
ple at Jerusalem. This candlestick was regarded by the Romans as 
a special trophy, and it remained in Rome until Genseric captured the 
city in 455, when it was taken to Africa as a part of the plunder 
received. Then, about 533, it was captured from the Vandals by 
Belisarius, the general of Justinian, and carried to Constantinople, 
from which place it was afterwards returned to Jerusalem; and then 
it disappeared entirely. 

ROME TO ATHENS 

After taking this brief survey of the great city of Rome, we drove 
hurriedly to our hotel. Having no time in which to obtain supper or 
lunch to take with us, we secured our suitcases and hurried to the 
railway station in order to catch a train to Brindisi, a city on the 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



85 



opposite side of Italy, on the shore of the Adriatic Sea. It was now 
about dark, and soon our last view of Rome faded to indistinct lines, 
then disappeared altogether; and then, tired and hungry (with no pros- 
pects of obtaining anything sufficient to satisfy us until our arrival at 
Brindisi about noon the next day), we settled down to rest as best we 
could in our compartment on the train. Next morning we could look 
out on the Adriatic Sea, as the railway lay along its shore the greater 
part of the distance from Barletta to Brindisi. We arrived at Brin- 




Fatras, Greece 



disi about noon. We had arranged with Thomas Cook and Son for 
passage from this place to Patras, Greece, on the Scilla, a small 
steamer belonging to the Italian line. The boat was expected to sail 
at one P. M., but it did not leave until nearly four. The sea was lovely 
and we had a very pleasant voyage, arriving at Patras about four 
o'clock on the afternoon of August 27. At this place our schedule 
was altered for the first time. The time for our arrival, as given in 
the guide-book, was 9 A. M., and so we were expecting to catch the 
eleven o'clock train for Corinth; but arriving late, we found we could 
not get a train until the next morning, so we went to a hotel. 

We had a very interesting trip across Greece. The railway line 
lay along the southern edge of the Gulf of Corinth, which extends al- 



86 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

most the entire distance across the peninsula, dividing the Hellenic State 
into two great natural divisions. Many thoughts of the past crowded 

into my mind on this beautiful day of cloudless sun- 
Early Greece shine, for I realized that we were indeed on historic 

ground. We can trace with definiteness the rise of 
the Roman State from the latter part of the eighth century B. C. ; 
but when the curtain of history lifts from the Hellenic people in that 
century we find ourselves confronted with an established civilization, 
spread over Greece, the coast of Asia Minor, and the islands of. the 
Aegean Sea; the past history of which, stretching back into centuries 
preceding, is lost in a labyrinth of facts, legends, and myths, which, in 
our times, we are unable to separate and classify. 

Among the number of stories connected with this legendary, or 
heroic age, is that of the Argonautic Expedition and the Trojan 
War (legendary date 1194-1184 B, C), the chief interest of which 
centers in the capture of Troy, rendered famous by Homer's epic of the 
Iliad. There is, doubtless, a nucleus of fact in these various stories, 
which was afterwards expanded by the addition of glowing legendary 
accounts, the pure product of Grecian imagination. 

But there is still a more remote background to these early scenes ; 
for, according to the Greeks themselves, they were not the original 

inhabitants of the country, but were preceded by a 
Pelasgians people whom they called Pelasgians. These people have 

left us some remains of their rude but massive masonr}-^ 
in different parts of the peninsula, such as the pre-historic walls at 
Mycenae. 

For many hours our course along the Corinthian Gulf was through 
the ancient Achala, which name was derived from the Achaeans, who 
Corinth drove out the lonians from that territory at the 

time of the Dorian Invasion, about 1,000 years be- 
fore Christ. In the afternoon we arrived at Corinth, where Paul re- 
sided for a year and a half, and planted a Christian church to which 
he afterwards addressed two of the New Testament epistles. We 
placed our parcels in the baggage-room and started out, but were 
unable to find an English-speaking guide. Ancient Corinth has long 
, since been destroyed, onl}'^ a heap of ruins remaining, and there being 
but little to see in the new Corinth, aside from what we had already 
; observed from the train while entering, we returned to the station. 
We found our train still waiting, but just ready to leave, so we de- 
cided to reenter and continue our way to Athens. 

On leaving the city, our train traversed the Isthmus of Corinth, 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



8^ 



a narrow strip of land between the Gulf of Corinth and the Gulf of 
Athens, which joins Northern and Southern Greece, and which is 
now intersected by a canal. From this point our course was along 
the north shore of 
the ancient Saronic 
Gulf, now named 
Gulf of Athens. The 
scenery of the moun- 
tains was enjoyable, 
the climate exhila- 
rating. On the right 
we could frequently 
see, far below us, the 
deep-blue waters of 
the gulf. Late in the 
afternoon we entered 
the plain of Attica, 
and soon in the dis- 
tance we caught the first glimpse of our objective point — Athens. 




Canal Near Corinth 



ATHENS 

A multitude of thoughts crowded into my mind when we entered 

the city of Athens "the university of the world." No human pen 

has ever described in fulness the influence which this city has had on 
the history of our race; for in it lived and flourished more great men 
of herculean ability than in any other city of the world. Here Soc- 
rates, Plato, and Aristotle reasoned ; here Demosthenes, the peer 
of orators, thundered his biting Philippics against the Macedonian 
invader; here Phidias, the greatest sculptor of all time, chiseled his 
works of art; here Pericles ruled, and Xenophon wrote his history, 
and Parrhasius painted, and Homer sang. And what shall we say of 
Praxiteles and Polygnotus, Sophocles and Euripides, Eschylus and 
Pindar, Zeno and Thucydides — names that will ever shine brilliantly 
in the firmament of human greatness and achievement.'' 

Having obtained comfortable quarters in the hotel Alexander the 
Great, we went out to a restaurant to obtain our suppers. The 
tables were arranged out in the streets, and it seemed very strange 
to us to have donkeys, dogs, and other animals in such close proximity 
while we were eating ; but on the whole it was very pleasant on these 
warm evenings. Our difficulties with the language were frequently 



88 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Amusing 
Difficulties 



quite amusing. We had become accustomed to hear- 
ing people talk in a foreign tongue; but up to this 
time we had been quite fortunate in finding persons 
who could understand us. In Italy, when our English failed, Brother 
Tasker would have recourse to his few words of French, which gen- 
erally served the purpose very well. 

But here in Greece things were quite different. The menu cards 
were not printed with the usual profusion of French terms, which, if 
one could not understand well, he could at least guess about; but 
appeared in the modern Greek, wholly unintelligible to us. The 
waiters would look very grave while we were making all sorts of ef- 
forts to convey an idea of what we wanted (perhaps they considered 

it beneath their pro- 
fessional dignity to 
smile), and then they 
would start off hur- 
riedly as though they 
understood at last, 
and presently would 
come back with — ■ 
something else. Fi- 
nally, I suggested to 
Brother Tasker that 
he draw pictures of 
what we desired, and 
Temple of Thesus SO he would sketch 

the outline of a fish, or potato, or something of the kind. 

While digressing from the main subject, I might mention another 
amusing incident of travel. On one occasion, while traveling on a 
steamer, my wife desired to give Gerald a bath, and so she asked the 
steward if they had a bathroom in the ship. He could not under- 
stand, so she proceeded to make motions illustrating bathing. He 
went and brought her, a towel. She then tried another set of gestures, 
when the steward, after consulting another man regarding what she 
wanted, hastened away, and returned presently with a clothes-brush. 
She then gave up the task until a man was found who could under- 
stand a little English. 

Mars' Hill ^^ ^^^ morning of August 29, we started out to visit 

Athens. We went at once to the Areopagus, better 

known as Mars' Hill, a large rocky formation near the Acropolis. 

The name is said to be derived from the alleged fact that Ares (Mars), 




EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



89 



tried for the murder of Halirrhotius, was the first person to be tried 
here. From time immemorial a venerable tribunal had sat on this 
spot, and to them was committed, particularly, the care of morals 
and religion. 

But our interest in this place was not centered in these things, but 
in another event, of later date. We knew that the apostle Paul as- 
cended the very stone steps which we were climbing, and appeared 




Mars' Hill, Athens 

before the tribunal at the top, and there deliverd to the Athenians 
that wonderful discourse recorded in Acts 17: 22-31. Here the man, 
the cause, and the occasion united to form a Christian classic. Here 
in front of the apostle stood an altar "to the unknown god" ; on his 
left, in the plain below, was the Temple of Theseus, and in the dis- 
tance, on the top of a mountain, an altar to Jupiter; on his right 
could be seen the Temple of Zeus, "the father of the gods"; while in 
front, on the Acropolis, was the Sanctuary of Minerva, the Temple 
of Victory, and, above all, the celebrated Parthenon, dedicated to 
Athena, the goddess of wisdom, and the special protector of the city 
of Athens. 

Here we stood on the same rock, on the spot formerly occupied by 
the altar, and gazed upon the same natural scenery and the remains 
of the same elegant, but now deserted, temples. And the God whom 



90 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



The 
Acropolis 



Paul affirmed "dwelleth not in temples made with hands," and who is 
"not like unto gold, or silver, or stone, graven by art and man's 
device," has triumphed over all of these inventions and creations of 
human art. Praise his name! 

Descending from Mars' Hill, we proceeded at once to the neigh- 
boring Acropolis, around which the history of Athens centers. This 
hard, limestone rock, situated in the midst of the 
plain of Attica, rises to the height of 500 feet, and 
is precipitous on three sides. It is about 875 feet 
long and 500 feet wide. The original town of Athens was built en- 
tirely on this rock and was fortified by high and strong walls around 

the top, remains of 
which can still be 
seen, dating from the 
Pelasgian period dur- 
ing the second mil- 
lennium before 
Christ. During this 
time, particularly be- 
tween 1500 and 1000 
years B. C, an im- 
portant civilization 
flourished in Greece, 
the center of which, 
however, was in the 
island of Crete. Ath- 
ens had not yet attained the first rank, the most important town in 
Greece being Mycenae, where Agamemnon, the richest and most pow- 
erful of all the kings of Greece, had his capital. He is described as 
the leader of the Greeks, in the war against Troy, already referred 
to. I shall have occasion to refer to this king later. 

After the year 1000 B. C, Athens continued to grow, and spread 
into the plain below the rock. The lower town was called the Asty 
(city), and the rock itself the Acropolis (that is, 
of Athens ^^^ upper town or citadel). After a while the Acrop- 

olis was given up entirely to the worship of the gods, 
especially to that of Athena, who was regarded as the protecting 
goddess of the city. In the earliest period, however, the Greeks nei- 
ther erected temples for their gods nor made statues in their honor, 
but they erected altars and worshiped in sacred groves. The earliest 
temples on the Acropolis were erected about 700 B. C. 




Acropolis. Temple of Zeus in Foreground 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



91 



The Pelasgian wall, already mentioned, remained intact until 480 
B. C, when Athens was captured by the Persians. But a little later 
that same year the Greek fleet under Themistocles encountered the 
Persian fleet in a flerce naval battle near the island of Salamis, just off 
the coast of Attica, near Athens, and gained a brilliant victory, and in 
the following year the Persian army was nearly crushed at the battle 



miJ^'^ 




The Farthenon 



of Plateea; thus the Athenians were once more in complete possession 
of the field. These battles, by turning backward the tide of Persian 
invasion, changed the history of the world. The old fortifications on 
the Acropolis were then renewed. Themistocles built the northern 
wall in 478 B. C, as it stands today; while Cimon erected the eastern 
and southern walls a little later, but which have since been restored. 
Athens then entered a p-jriod of prosperity which reached its 
climax in the age of Pericles (459-431 B. C), the golden age of 
Greece. "The epoch embraces less than the lifetime 
of a single generation, yet its influence upon the civi- 
lization of the world can hardly be overrated. Dur- 
ing this short period Athens gave birth to more great men — poets, 
artists, statesmen, and philosophers — than all the world besides has 



Golden Age 
of Greece 



92 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



The Parthenon 



produced in any period of equal length." Among these great men 
Pericles himself stands preeminent in his influence upon the city of 
Athens. He was a man of extraordinary ability, and ruled, as Plu- 
tarch says, "by the art of persuasion." He devoted his energies to 
building up and adorning the city, and so upon the Acropolis was 
erected the magnificent and unrivaled Parthenon, a 
masterpiece of genius that has excited the admiration 
of the world, and is the most imposing ruin that has come down to us 
from antiquity. It was doubtless the finest monument of ancient 
architecture. It was built of Pentelic marble in the Doric style, and 
had 8 columns on each of the two fronts and IT on each of the two 
sides (the corner ones being counted twice), or 46 in all, of which 32 

are still standing. 
The length of the 
structure was 228 
feet, the width 101 
feet, and the height 
64 feet, the columns 
being 34 feet and 6 
inches. The pedi- 
ments were adorned 
with large statues, 
and encircling the 
building was a most 
wo n d e r f u 1 frieze, 
adorned with sculp- 
ture, the work of the 
immortal Phidias, the greatest of all sculptors, and representing an 
important feature of the Athenian festival, which was celebrated every 
four years in honor of the patron goddess Athena. The greater 
part of this frieze is now in the Elgin Room of the British Museum 
and we observed it while there. But the most prominent feature of 
the Parthenon was the immense statue of Athena, 40 feet in height, 
constructed of ivory and gold, also executed by Phidias. 

This wonder of the ancient world remained in almost a perfect 
state of preservation until modern times, when in 1687 the besieging 
Venetians threw a bomb into the Parthenon, which 
the Turks had converted into a powder-magazine, and 
more than half of this masterpiece of ancient art 
was ruined. This calamity, which is felt so keenly by all lovers of 
art, is mitigated into a small degree by one fortunate circumstance. 




Ancient Stairway up Mar's KiU 



Destruction of 
Parthenon 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



93 



Prison of 
Socrates 



Many of the richest sculptures had been drawn by a skilful artist, 
before the explosion. Only thirteen years before this event, Jacques 
Carrey made sketches which are now preserved in Paris, facsimiles of 
which we saw in the British Museum. Other marvelous buildings; 
erected during the Periclean democracy also adorned the Acropolis; 
but they have shared a similar fate. Thus the Propylaea was also- 
used for a powder-magazine, and a bolt of lightning exploded it in 
1645 only a few years before the destruction of the Parthenon. Many 
statues and other remains from these buildings are now preserved 
from further demolition in the adjacent museum, which we also visited. 
Descending from the Acropolis, Ave took a walk of 
about five minutes to a hill, in the side of which is 
located the Prison of Socrates. Here that noted 
philosopher was confined for one month. Socrates taught the doc- 
trine of one God, to 
the discredit, it would 
seem, of the popular 
religion ; and he was 
therefore brought to 
trial before the trib- 
unal on Mars' Hill, 
charged with blas- 
pheming and with 
corrupting the Ath- 
enian youth. The 
waywardness of Al- 
cibiades, one of his 
pupils, was urged in 
evidence against him. 

He was condemned to death and imprisoned in this place, and here 
he could look out between the iron bars and see the Acropolis, which; 
he had so often visited, and Mars' Hill, where he had been condemned. 
He spent his last night upon earth discoursing with his disciples oni 
the immortality of the soul, and then drank the fatal poison. We 
entered the prison, which is merely a cave in the side of the hill, andl 
had our photograph taken while standing in one apartment. 

We next visited the National Archeological Museum, 

Archeological where we found the immense collection of exhibits most 

Museum interesting. In the Saloon of Mycensean Antiquities 

are the objects found by Dr. Schliemann in 1876, and 

by the Greek Archeological Society in 1877. To these have been 




Prison of Socrates 



94 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



added other objects of the same period, found elsewhere, some dat- 
ing back as far as the sixteenth century before Christ. I was sur- 
prised at the amount of gold which is here exhibited and which is rep- 
resented as belonging to Agamemnon, king of Mycenae, at least thir- 
ty-four centuries ago. 

While we were observing these ancient objects, I could not avoid 
thinking of certain objections which critics have urged against the 
Bible records concerning the amount of gold and silver employed in 
the construction of the tabernacle of Moses and the temple of Solo- 
mon. But now the shovel of the archeologist unearths such an amount 
of the precious metal employed in the construction of even dishes and 
household articles, not to mention ornaments, which is dated back 

to the time of Moses, 
that we have posi- 
tive proof that a 
large amount of gold 
was in existence in 
those early times. I 
have already re- 
ferred to the statue 
of the Virgin God- 
dess which was made 
by Phidias at a later 
date, and placed in 
the Parthenon. It 
has been estimated 
that the precious 
metal employed in the construction of this one statue amounted to 
forty-four talents of gold, or about $750,000. 

It is useless to attempt to describe the thousands of sculptural 
objects exhibited in this museum. It would be very difficult to give 
an adequate description of these marvelous works of 
Grecian ^ ^^^ ancient art ; and indeed, if such could be given, 

Sculpture the reader could form no accurate idea of the objects 

themselves. Again I say, such things must be seen 
to be appreciated. 

I have read of the superiority of the Grecian work of this char- 
acter over all the productions of later ages, and have wondered if 
sentiment did not play an important part in such a decision, mere 
antiquity lending, as it were, a certain enchantment; but after visit- 
ing art institutions in Italy, adorned with the most brilliant works 




Caryatid Porch on the Acropolis 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



95 



The Stadion 



of this kind produced in the Christian centuries, I was unable to 
resist the conviction that the difference is real, and not imaginary. 
Here figures are presented with such life-likeness, such trueness to 
nature, that one could almost expect them to smile at him, and speak. 
From the museum we repaired to the Stadion, the scene of the 
Panathenaean games. This course was laid out by the orator and 
statesman Lykourgos about 330 B. C. At a later 
period the seats and partitions were renewed in white 
marble by Herodes Atticus, who almost exhausted the Pentelic quar- 
ries in carrying out this project. The entire length of the course 
was 670 feet, and the breadth 
was 109 feet; and there were 
accommodations for 50,000 
spectators. As Paul was in 
Athens while on his way to 
Corinth, where he resided for 
a long time, it is quite prob- 
able that his reference to the 
race-course, in 1 Cor. 9 : 24- 
27, was suggested by the 
games that were held in this 
place. The Stadion has been 
restored in strict conformity 
with the ancient remains, 
through the generosity of N. 
Averof, a monument to whom 
stands on the right of the en- 
trance. 

Next morning, August 30, 
we had a little time at our 
disposal, since our ship for 
Alexandria would not sail un- 
til four o'clock in the after- 
noon; so we returned again to 
Mars' Hill, where, having provided ourselves with postcards of that 
place, we proceeded to write them to many of our friends in America. 
Descending from Mars' Hill, we passed around on the south side 
of the Acropolis and came to the Odeion of Herodes Atticus, an old 
theater dating from the Roman period. We did not hesitate here, 
but passed on to the southeastern slope of the Acropolis and entered 
the Theater of Dionysius, said to be the oldest theater in the world. 




Tower of the "Winds 



96 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Theater of 
Dionysius 



It was semicircular in form, partly cut out of the 
rock; it had a radius of 150 feet and furnished ac- 
modations for 17,000 persons. This was the center 
of the dramatic art in Greece, the place where the master-pieces of 
Eschylus, Euripides, Sophocles and Aristophanes excited delight 




Theater of Dionysius 

and admiration. The foremost row of seats consisted of armchairs 
cut out of Pentelic marble. Gerald seated himself in a large raised 
seat in the center of this row (probably the one which was reserved 
for the priest of Dionysius), and we stood by his side and had our 
pictures taken. 



LEAVING "CLASSICAL ANTIQUITY" 

The time had now arrived for us to leave the scenes of classical 
antiquity behind; so we returned to the hotel for our luggage, took 
a tram-car to Pirjeus, and there embarked on the Khedivial Line 
steamship Osmanieh, bound for Alexandria, Egypt. As we passed 
out of the harbor at Piraeus into the gulf, we obtained a good view 
of the natural situation of Athens ; and for two hours or more the 
Acropolis, and the Parthenon on its summit, were visible. 

We entered the Aegean Sea. The weather being nice, we had a 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 97 

very pleasant voyage. Next morning we passed close to the island 

of Crete, one of the largest islands of the Mediter- 
Crete . . 

ranean, being 160 miles long, and varying in width 

from six to thirty- five miles. It was interesting to us chiefly because 
of its connection with apostolic history. When Paul sailed on his 
voyage to Italy, his vessel was driven by heavy seas and contrary 
winds around the southern part of the island, out of the direct course 
on the north side. With difficulty they rounded the promontory of 
Salmone on the east side and took shelter in a place called Fair 
Haven. Here they spent some time. But not finding the harbor a 
secure place to winter in, and the season being far advanced, they 
determined, contrary to the advice of Paul, to attempt a passage to 
Phoenice; and in endeavoring to do this, they were driven far out 
of their course by an Euroclydon gale and were wrecked on the island 
of Melita. 

The Island of Crete was peopled at a very early period and was 
extremely prosperous, for Homer alludes to its hundred cities 
(II. 2:649). This was the birth-place of the cele- 
Earlv Crete brated legislator Minos. The character of its in- 

habitants, however, was not commendable, if we ac- 
cept literally the words of Paul in his epistle to Titus, who was lo- 
cated here. Paul quotes with approbation "one of their own poets," 
who asserts that "the Cretans are always liars, evil beasts, slow bel- 
lies" (Tit. 1:12). But the gospel of Jesus Christ is intended for 
all classes ; therefore a Christian church was established here at 
a very early date, and the apostle Paul, after at least visiting the 
place, writes to Titus : "For this cause left I thee in Crete, that 
thou shouldest set in order the things that are wanting, and ordain 
elders in every city" (Tit. 1:5). 

ALEXANDRIA 

The following day we arrived in Alexandria, Egypt. Here we 
were met by a number of brethren and sisters ; and the day being 
Sunday, we had two very interesting services with them. A goodly 
number gathered together in a little, upper room, and the blessings 
of the Lord rested upon us all. 

I suppose that no city on the earth has exerted a 
Associations greater influence upon Christianity than has Alexan- 

dria. The city, founded by and named in honor of 
Alexander the Great, soon became a great and splendid city, the cen- 
ter of commerce between the East and the West. At one time its 



98 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



population reached 1,000,000. After the breaking up of Alexander's 
empire, this city became the center of intellectual and literary ac- 
tivity, the very seat of Greek learning and civilization; hence the thr^e 
hundred-year period of the reign of the Ptolemies is spoken of as the 
Alexandrian Age. The founder of this house and dynasty was 
Ptolemy Soter, one of Alexander's ablest generals ; and this ambitious 
and able man proceeded to beautify the city of Alexandria and to 
make it the most important place in the world. At the entrance to 




Alexandria, Hgypt 



the harbor he built the Pharos, or famous lighthouse, that it might 
guide the fleets of the world to his capitol. This structure was reck- 
oned among the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. 

But it was not in the realm of material things alone that he sought 
to enrich the place; he determined also to make it the place where 
the arts, sciences, literatures, and religions of the 
world, should meet and mingle. To accomplish this 
result, he built the famous Museum, which was a sort 
of a college, and which became the "University of 
He also established the world-renowned Alexandrian Li- 
brary, which, at its most flourishing period, is said to have numbered 
700,000 volumes — an immense collection in those days before the 
invention of printing. All of this was expressly provided for the use 



Kenowned 
Museum and 
Library 

the East." 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 99 

of those who desired to devote themselves to the study of philosophy, 
literature, and science. 

The successor of this monarch, Ptolemy Philadelphius, contin- 
ued the liberal policy of his father; and, according to Josephus, it 

was under his rule and by his order that the cele- 
The Septuagint ^^^^^^ translation of the Hebrew Scriptures into 
Version . . 

Greek, known as the Septuagmt Version, was exe- 
cuted about 285 B. C. According to tradition, the translation was 
the work of seventy-two men, who completed the task in seventy-two 
days ; hence the name Seventy, usually written with the Latin numerals, 
LXX, is applied to this version. Modern crtics, however, do not 
believe that the entire work was completed at one time. But it is 
certain that this translation soon sprang into popular favor and ex- 
erted a tremendous influence in preparing the way for the introduc- 
tion of Christianity. It was in universal circulation among the Jews, 
who regarded it as inspired. It was quoted continually by the writ- 
ers of the New Testament, and was later used, instead of the Hebrew, 
for translation into Latin, and is retained by the Greek Church until 
this day. 

The demand for this translation into Greek probably arose from 
the Hebrew element, which entered largely into the cosmopolitan 
character of Alexandria. At the time of the foundation of the city, 
Alexander gave the Jews equal rights and privileges with the other 
citizens, and they had their own governor. A little later, however, 
the political jealousy and religious hatred of the Greeks and Egyp- 
tians isolated the Jews to some extentj even walls separating their 
quarters from the rest of the city; but within this enclosure the Jews 
prospered financially and intellectually, and there Moses was studied, 
as well as Greek authors. This contact of the law with philosophy 
doubtless produced the demand for the Scriptures in Greek. 

But the early mission of Alexandria in preparing the way for 
Christianity appears in the changes which it wrought in the Greek 

language itself. Language never remains insensible 
Preparation for , ., • . i ^ i j-n j - 

Christianitv environment, but soon becomes modined m ac- 

cordance with its surroundings. Alexander's arrival 
and policy in Egypt placed Greek in the front rank and made it the 
general language of the people ; but when spoken by Romans, Egyp- 
tians, and Jews, it could not remain the pure classical Greek, so be- 
came greatly modified in the direction of simplicity and peculiar forms 
of expresson. And even words which belonged to the early age of 
Greek were clothed with new and special significations which admir- 



100 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



ably fitted the language to become the vehicle for carrying the special 
message of the gospel. As an illustration, we might take the word 
"spirit." In the pure Greek this word never signified anything more 
than mind or breath; but in the Septuagint it appears with the be- 
ginnings of that psychological conception that is so firmly and clearly 
brought out later in the New Testament. 

The Museum was the center of philosophical discussion, but the 

age of pure philosophy had 
gone; and what now passed un- 
der that heading was a mixture 
of philosophy and theology, and 
led to the coinage of new words 
suitable for conveying theologi- 
cal thought. Here we find the 
introduction of the word Logos 
which through the writings of 
Philo became familiar all around 
the Mediterranean. So the 
apostle John took a word whose 
meaning was entirely familiar, 
when he wrote about the divine 
Logos, or Word. Of course he 
presented a different theologi- 
cal thought, but the vehicle for 
carrying it was familiar. Pro- 
fessor Jowett has said concern- 
ing the language of Philo: "As 
we read his works, the truth 
flashes upon us that the lan- 
Pompey's Pillar guage of the New Testament is 

not isolated from the language of the world; the spirit rather than 
the letter is new, the whole, not the parts, the life more than the form. 
No study brings one more clearly face to face with the divine in this 
message from heaven to us than just this." 

And so the language was made ready to hand for the service of 
Christianity. The importance of this fact must not be overlooked. 
Suppose, for instance, that at that time the world would have had no 
such ideas as "holy," "God," or "spirit," and therefore no words to 
convey such ideas, what almost unsurmountable obstacles the first dis- 
ciples would have faced in endeavoring to present these ideas. But 
Chrst appeared "in the fulness of time" — when everything was ready. 




EASTWARD TO SYRIA 101 

Another essential for the establishment of a universal religion was 
the universal diffusion of that language by which it could be suitably 
conveyed. The wide conquests of Alexander contrib- 
WW^pread'^^^^ ^*^^ *° *^^^ ^^^' Professor Jebb has said regarding 
the Greeks, "Of all the beautful things which they cre- 
ated, their language was the most beautiful." And when this lan- 
guage was wrought into epics, dramas, lyrics, and histories, it could 
not fail to captivate the people wherever it was introduced. And 
even when Rome through military prowess succeeded in overpower- 
ing the ancient world politically, she could not resist the influence of 
Grecian civilization, but became in a great measure Hellenized her- 
self ; or, as one writer has said, the wonderful genius of Greece enabled 
her, "captured, to lead captive her captor." 

And finally, I shall again mention the fact that Alexandria pro- 
duced that version of the Scripture whch entered so deeply into the 
very life of the New Testament church. It was absolutely necessary 
for the establishment of Christianity that the ancient Scriptures, in 
which the gospel stands rooted, should be diffused abroad in the lan- 
guage of the common people. The early dispersal of the Jews among 
the nations secured this result; for we read that "Moses of old time 
hath in every city them that preach him, being read in the synagogues 
every sabbath day" (Acts 15:21). So wherever the apostles went 
with the gospel, they found the Scriptures, to which they could appeal, 
in a language perfectly adapted to the expression of Christian thought. 
In view of this fact, how natural it was that the apostles in writing 
the New Testament Scriptures should also direct a large part of them 
to the Jews especially. James addresses his epistles "to the twelve 
tribes which are scattered abroad" (James 1:1); Peter addresses his 
First Epistle to the Jews of the dispersion ( 1 Pet. 1:1); also his 
Second Epistle (2 Pet. 3:1), in which he affirms that Paul also wrote 
an epistle to the Hebrews (2 Pet. 3: 15), and that it ranks as Scrip- 
ture (V. 16). Many modern scholars deny the Pauline authorship of 
the book of Hebrews, even though it was affirmed by the Alexandrian 
Fathers and others of the ancient church. But if Paul did not write 
this epistle in the New Testament, where is the epistle to the Hebrews 
which Peter affirms that Paul did write.? 

But the influences of Alexandria, as concerns the gospel, were not 
limited to furnishing favorable conditions for its delivery ; for this 
influence afterwards had a distinguished place in setting forth the 
gospel's beauty and worth. It is said that St. Mark first preached 
the gospel in Egypt and founded a church at Alexandria; and here 



102 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Christianity came in contact with the philosophical and speculative 
thought of that age. Here flourished Clement of Alexandria, Atha- 

nasius, and Origen, three of the most profoundly 
and"Athanasfus"' learned and scholarly men that graced the early 

church. The battle which was here fought to a suc- 
cessful issue centered mainly in the doctrine of the divine Logos, and 
succeeded in establishing in the world's thought the great truth of the 
incarnation. We shall ever be indebted to the services which such 
men rendered in this period when the Greek theology predominated. 
With the rise of the Latin theology, n little later, a decided change for 
the worse appears. 

The great Alexandrian Library, already referred to, suffered some 

losses by fire and otherwise at different times, but 
Alexandrian ^^g g^g often replaced, until the year 641 A. D., when 

Destroyed ^^^ ^^^J -^^U into the hands of the Saracens. Amrou, 

the captain of the Caliph's army, was willing to spare 
this great library; but when he wrote to Omar for instructions con- 
cerning it, he received this reply : "If these books agree with the 
Koran, they are useless ; if they disagree, they are pernicious : in 
either case they ought to be destroyed." And so these priceless treas- 
ures of antiquity were distributed among the four thousand baths of 
the capital and served to feed their fires for six months. It almost 
makes the heart sick to think of such a wanton destruction of thou- 
sands of works that would now open to us more fully the great treas- 
ure-house of past ages. 

CAIRO 

From Alexandria we took train to Cairo. This city is situated 
near the apex of the delta of the Nile, near the site of the ancient 
Memphis, one of the earliest capitals of Egypt. Here we were kindly 
entertained by Bro. G. K. Ouzounian and family. The chief historical 
interest of this place centers in the Gizeh group of pyramids, situ- 
The Pyramids ^^ted a few miles to the southwest of the city. With 
Brother Ouzounian for our guide, we took a tram-car, 
passed through the city of Gizeh, and went out to those pyramids 
numbered among the Seven Wonders of the World. There are per- 
haps fifty pyramids in Egypt, situated on the west side of the Nile, 
but the Gizeh group is the most important. These colossal structures 
of masonry, having a rectangular base and four triangular sides, ter- 
minating in a point, are built chiefly from the hard limestone of the 
adjacent hills, but large blocks of granite brought from a distance 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



103 



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G. K. Ouzounlan and Family, of Cairo, Egypt 



104 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

were also used on the outside. The four sides are so placed as to face 
the four cardinal points. 

The Gizeh group consists of nine pyramids, and among them are 
the three most celebrated of all — the pyramid of Cheops, called the 




The Great Pyramid at Gizeh 



The Great 
Pyramid 



Great Pyramid, the pyramid of Khafra, and the pyramid of Men- 
kaura. The base of the Great Pyramid, which occupies thirteen 
acres, forms a square, each side of which originally 
measured 768 feet, but now owing to the removal of 
the outer coating, measures only 750 feet. The outer 
surface now forms a series of steps averaging about three feet each. 
This pyramid rises to the height of 451 feet, terminating in a square 
space containing about twelve square yards. Originally the sides 
were quite smooth and the top sharp, rising to the height of 480 feet. 
The stones used in its construction are mostly large, and must have 
required an immense amount of work and mechanical skill to quarry, 
transport, and adjust in their present position. Herodotus, who 
visited this place in the fifth century before Christ, affirms that it re- 
quired 100,000 men, working ten years, to construct the causeway 
over which to transport the stone from the quarries, and that it re- 
quired twenty more years for the same number of men to construct 
the Great Pyramid alone. We are now positive that this pyramid was 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 



105 



constructed by Khufu I, whom the Greeks called Cheops, for his 
name has been found upon some of the stones, painted on them by his 
workmen. Therefore this pyramid dates from about 2700 B. C. 
Climbing the Such mountains of stone prove that these Egyptian 

Great Psrramid kings were cruel oppressors of their people. Herodo- 
tus says that the Egyptians did not like even to speak the names of 
the builders of 
the two largest 
pyramids. Gerald 
and I thought we 
would like to as- 
cend this artificial 
mountain, and so 
we climbed to the 
top. Here in the 
center of the 
square space be- 
f o r e mention' n 
was a pole erect- 
ed, whose top indi- 
cated the original 
height of the pyra- 
mid before its top 
was removed. We 
both climbed this 
pole also, and can 
therefore say 
that we have real- 
ly been to the top 
of the Great 

Pvramid Ascending the Great Pyramid 

Descending, we passed around to the southwest side of the pyramid 
in order to view the Sphinx, a colossal, sculptured figure, as old as 
The Snhinx ^^^ fourth dynasty, the time of the erection of the 

greatest pyramids ; some think that the Sphinx even 
antedates them, being built by Menes. This immense statue, with the 
exception of the forelegs, which are built of masonry, is sculptured 
out of the native rock, and measures about 63 feet in height and 150 
feet in length. The figure is in the form of a lion having a human 
head, and has solemn, awe-inspiring, and majestic features, represent- 




106 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

ing the god Harmachis. Concerning this Egyptian Sphinx one 
writer says: 

"This huge, mutilated figure has an astonishing effect ; it seems 
Hke an eternal spectre. The stone phantom seems attentive; one 
would say that it hears and sees. Its great ear appears to collect 
the sounds of the past; its eyes, directed to the East, gaze, as it 




Our Party at the Sphinx 

were, into the future; its aspect has a depth, a truth of expression, 
irresistibly fascinating to the spectator. In this figure — half statue, 
half mountain — we see a wonderful majesty, a grand serenity, and 
even a sort of sweetness of expression." 

Sphinxes figured in the mythologies of both Greeks and Romans. 
The sphinx of the Greeks, however, was in the form of a lion with 

wings, and with the head and shoulders of a woman. 
Mvtholoffv Thus, in the fable, Hera, provoked with the Thebans, 

sent the sphinx to punish them, and the sphinx pro- 
posed a riddle and then proceeded to destroy all who attempted to 
interpret its meaning and failed. The riddle was the question, "What 
animal walks on four legs in the morning, on two at noon, and on 
three in the evening .f"' This was finally solved by CEdipus, who said 
that man walked on his hands and feet in childhood, or in the morning, 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 107 

and at noontime of life walked erect, and in the evening of his life 
supported himself with a staff. Whereupon the sphinx destroyed 
herself. 

On the plain near by, and within sight of the pyramids, Napoleon 
fought a fierce battle with the Mameluke cavalry in 1798. Before the 
conflict he stirred his soldiers to action with one of his short charac- 
teristic addresses, saying, "Men, forty centuries are looking down 
upon you." The French were successful in this "battle of the pyra- 
mids," as it is termed. 

The second pyramid (Khafra) is 690 feet square at the base and 
447 feet high — only a little smaller than the pyramid of Cheops. The 
third pyramid (Menkaura) is much smaller, be- 
and^Menkaura'^^ ^^S only 354 feet square at the base and 203 
feet high. But it is much better constructed than 
the others, or at any rate it is the best preserved; for much of the 
outer smooth coating of marble remains, giving a clear idea of the 
original appearance of all of them. These pyramids were doubtless 
built by the respective kings as tombs and memorials of themselves. 
They contain inner chambers. During the researches of Colonel Vyse, 
the^ stone sarcophagus of the king Menkaura was found in this third 
pyramid, also the wooden cover of the inside cofBn, which was made 
of cedar. The body of the king had been removed, had been carried 
up into an upper room in the pyramid and torn apart, probably at 
some time when the pyramid was broken into by persons in search of 
treasures. This sarcophagus and wrecked mummy we saw, as I have 
already stated, in the British Museum. 

CAIRO TO BEIRUT 

Leaving Cairo by train, we passed through the "land of Goshen," 

where the children of Israel dwelt while in captivity in Egypt. The 

many incidents which were connected with their so- 
The "Land of . • . i • i j j i • i i • j. 

Goshen" journ m this land and which occupy such a prominent 

place in the familiar records of the Scriptures, were 

brought vividly to my mind; and instead of merely singing, 

"Backward, turn backward, Time in your flight," 

we almost felt as if we were really moving amid the scenes of 3,500 
years ago. There we could look out and see a cow and a camel yoked 
together and drawing a crooked stick for a plow, probably the very 
same way that plowing was done when Abraham visited that country. 
There we could see little villages composed of low huts, in which the 



108 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



people, donkeys, sheep, and goats appeared to live very much In com- 
mon, with no appreciable change from the conditions that prevailed 
there at the earliest dawn of human history. 

One feature of our trip to Syria, which we appreciated very much, 
was the exact reversal of history, chronologically considered, in the 
order of our examinations. This fact served to in- 
crease our interest from place to place. In America 
we were in contact with the newest civilization. Then 
our coming to England and viewing the things already considered, 
carried us further back into history; but still, the greater part of 



Chronology 
Reversed 




Beirut, Syria 



these things are modern. But when we crossed the Continent, we 
began to feel as if we were really treading on ancient soil. In Italy we 
found ourselves amid scenes that were current at the beginning of 
Christian history, and that even antedated it. Crossing to Greece, we 
were brought in touch with the relics of a civilization that was vener- 
able with age when the Roman empire was born. And when we reached 
Egypt, we found, as it were, the cradle of Greece; for here Herodotus 
came to study ancient history, while Pythagoras and- Plato became 
pupils of Egyptian priests that they might learn the wisdom of the 
Egyptians, and Plato was inclined to think that the pictures and stat- 
ues then in the temples had been made "ten thousand years" before. 



EASTWARD TO SYRIA 109 

After Egypt had fulfilled her mission, by paving the way for the 
civilization of other countries, she was suffered to decline. From the 

time that the Persian king, Artaxerxes III, subjected 
F^heT *^^ country, about 340 B. C, until the present day, 

no native prince has ever sat upon the throne of the 
Pharaohs. Long before this Persian conquest, the prophet Ezekiel 
predicted the utter abasement of Egypt: "Thus saith the Lord God; 
I will also DESTROY THE IDOLS, and I will cause their images to cease 

out of Noph; AND THERE SHALL BE NO MORE A PRINCE OF THE LAND 

OF EGYPT" (Ezek. 30:13). 

For a long distance our train ran along the Suez Canal. The 
construction of this canal was a remarkable feat of engineering skill, 
and it has proved an immense benefit to the commerce 
the\onraey ° °^ *^^ Eastern nations. Arriving at Port Said, we em- 
barked on the steamship Dalmatia, whose course was 
direct to Beirut, Syria, our destination. We were very tired; for the 
six weeks of almost continuous traveling since we left New York, had 
had its effect. So we were thankful to reach the last stage of our 
journey. But we found that the berths were all taken and no accom- 
modations of that kind could be provided for us; therefore we were 
obliged to sleep out on the deck as best we could. The sea was not very 
rough, but for some reason we were all troubled with sickness, except 
Gerald. After lying out on the deck all night, without any bedclothes, 
I concluded that we were at least learning the meaning of one English 
word — hardship. We passed within sight of the city of Sidon, which 
stands so closely associated with Tyre (a little further down the 
coast) in the history of ancient Phoenicia. Hiram, king of Tyre, as- 
sisted Solomon by furnishing cedar from the mountains of Lebanon 
for the erection of the splendid temple at Jerusalem. 

Early in the afternoon of September 4, our ship anchored in the 
harbor of Beirut; and we were soon in the company of our friends, 
ready to enter into the service of Christ in that country. 



THROUGH THE 
HOLY LAND 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 

After laboring during the winter of 1912-13 in missionary work in 
the village of Schweifat, Mt. Lebanon, Syria, we felt that it would 
be pleasing to the Lord for us to make a trip to Egypt to engage in 
evangelistic work for a few weeks. Our short visit in Egypt while 
on our way to Syria the year before had created in us a strong desire 
to return and do what we could to encourage the dear saints there and 
to increase the work. We also desired to visit Palestine; and since 
on the return journey to Syria we would be passing that way at the 
time of year most favorable for visiting the Holy Land, we made this 
trip a part of our general plan. 

BEIRUT TO ALEXANDRIA 

At 10 A. M. Monday morning, February 17, 1913, wife and,!, 
with our little boy, Gerald, sailed from the harbor of Beirut on a 
steamship of the Italian Line, bound for Alexandria direct. For 
three days prior to this time the worst storm that we had seen on 
the sea since we had been there, raged on the Mediterrane^in. Our 
tickets had been secured in advance; therefore we felt obliged to go, 
since we could not wait for the next sailing one weelf, later. Shortly 
after embarking we responded to the call for early lunch and took 
our places at the table ; but soon the boat passed beyond the break- 
water in the harbor and encountered the open waves of the sea, with 
the result that we quickly felt disposed to retire at once to our state- 
room, leaving such a minor thing as lunch for future consideration. 
There is something about seasickness that always seems very 
amusing — after it is all over. I succeeded in removing my coat and 
one shoe, and then was obliged to lie down quickly and 
remain quiet during the rest of the voyage, which did 
not close until the evening of the next day. Poor little Gerald was 
very seasick for the first time in his life. He would pray earnestly 
for the Lord to heal him, and then would suddenly take another spell 
of sickness. Finally he said discouragingly, "What is the matter with 
Jesus?" We told him that Jesus was all right, but that he would have 
to pray more earnestly and believe. Then he would say, "I do be- 
lieve; I do believe." He soon recovered entirely and was able to play 
around in the stateroom and in the dining-room during the remainder 

113 



114 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

of the trip. During the night a murder was committed on board; a 
child being smothered by its parents. They were Arabs from Al- 
giers. So when the ship arrived at Alexandria, all the passengers 
were detained on board while some sort of investigation was in prog- 
ress, after which we were allowed to land. 

We spent five weeks with the church in Alexandria, then went to 
Cairo, where we labored for about three weeks. Our efforts in the work 
at this time and the results of the same are detailed in the section of 
this book relating to personal missionary experiences. 

Cairo is a remarkable city, and one of the Mohammedan centers of 
the world. Its labyrinth of narrow, crooked streets and lanes, its 
At Cairo numerous bazaars and markets give a good Oriental im- 

pression; still, the European influence is noticeable, 
especially in some quarters of the city. 

While there this time, we spent one day on a trip to the Pyramids 
and we had a better opportunity than we had the year before for 
viewing these remarkable structures — the greatest masonry ever put 
together by man. 

We also visited the Boulak Museum, in Cairo, which contains a 
vast collection of Egyptian antiquities. Our greatest interest, how- 
ever, was in the mummies of the kings. Not all of the 
Egypt's sovereigns of Egypt constructed pyramids for their 

Sovereigns tombs. In the limestone cliff back of Thebes are nu- 

merous magnificent rock-cut sepulchers in which bodies 
of the kings were formerly placed. These chambers were richly sculp- 
tured and painted, and the place has been termed "The Westminster 
Abbey of Egypt." It appears that some sudden alarm caused the 
people to take the bodies of the kings from these sepulchers and se- 
crete them; but in 1886 they were discovered in a secret cave near 
Thebes. They were taken to this museum where they were easily iden- 
tified by means of the inscriptions upon the cases and wrappings. The 
collection consists of nearly all of the kings of the Eighteenth, Nine- 
teenth, Twentieth, and Twenty-first Dynasties. Here we looked upon 
the face of the once mighty Seti I, noted for his great wars with the 
Hittites on the Euphrates, and for his wonderful achievements as a 
builder in Egypt. The main part of the world-renowned "Hall of 
Columns" in the Temple of Karnak was constructed by him. He also 
constructed for himself the most beautiful and elaborate sepulcher 
among the tombs of the kings of Thebes. 

In the next case adjoining, we looked upon the body of his son, 
Rameses II, surnamed The Great, the Sesostris of the Greeks. He 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



115 




Barneses II, the Pharaoh of the Oppression 



H6i MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

was the most prominent king of the Nineteenth Dynasty, and is gen- 
•erally accorded first place among all the sovereigns of Egypt. His 
long reign of sixty-seven years was a period of military expeditions 
and architectural works. It is estimated that nearly one-half of the 
extant temples were built during his reign. Scholars affirm that he 
was the Pharaoh of the oppression, the new king that arose "which 
knew not Joseph" (Exod. 1: 8)^ This was confirmed by the discovery 
in 1883, of the treasure-cities of Rameses and Pithom, with store-pits 
constructed of brick built with mortar. The lower layers of brick 
were made of straw ; and the middle layers contained stubble, instead 
of straw; while the upper layers are of brick made without straw or 
stubble. This agrees perfectly with the description of the work done 
by the Israelities (Exod. 5:6-19). The inscriptions found prove the 
builder to be Ramases II. On our return from the East we saw in the 
British Museum in London a section of this work, brought from 
Egypt. It was the daughter of this king who found and adopted Moses 
(Exod. 2: 1-10). 

I particularly noticed sixteen of these kings, and took notes con- 
cerning them, but wiU refer just to one more — Menephta, the Phar- 
aoh of the Exodus. According to the Bible account, the Pharoah 
of the Exodus was drowned in the Red Sea ; biit when we consider that 
this overthrow took place in a shallow Rrm of the sea, and consider 
also the particular care the Egyptians had ;f or their dead, it is a reason- 
able hypothesis that his body was afterwards recovered and embalmed. 
Here we stood looking upon the stern face of that wicked king who 
resisted Moses and Aaron 3,400 years ago. This was the man who 
hardened his heart against God, as a result of which God's name has 
been "declared throughout all the earth" (Rom. 9:17). Oh, the 
vanity of human greatness! testify these dried remains of the mighty 
of past ages. 

FROM EGYPT TO PALESTINE 

On the morning of April 13 we started from Egypt on our trip 
through the Holy Land. We were accompanied by Mikail Pam- 
bukdjian, of Constantinople, and G. K. Ouzounian, of Cairo. Arriv- 
ing at Port Said, we embarked on' a steamship of the Khedivial Line, 
bound for Jaffa; and soon were on our way to the land where Bible 
interest centers — the country which we have longed to see from the 
time in earliest childhood when we eagerly listened to Bible lore. 
Early in the morning our ship anchored in the harbor, and we were 
soon conveyed to the shore in a small boat. Here we were joined by 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



1,1(7 



Sister Bessie Hittle, who came direct from Beirut to accompany lis 
through Palestine. i ' 

Jaffa is tlie Joppa of the Bible and was anciently a Phoenician col- 
ony. It is beautifully situated on a rocky eminence overlooking the 
J ^ joDDa ^^^' ^^^ port is very dangerous on account of ex- 

posure to the open sea; and therefore in very rough 
weather ships do not attempt to harbor there. This was the only 
port possessed by the Israelites until the time of Herod, who formed 




Jaffa from the Sea 

the harbor at Cesarea. One thousand years before Christ, King Solo- 
mon requested Hiram, king of Tyre, to send cedar from Lebanon to 
this place to be transported to Jerusalem and used in the construc- 
tion of the temple. Hiram's reply is given in these words: "We will, 
cut wood out of Lebanon, as much as thou shalt need: and we will 
bring it to thee in floats by sea to Joppa ; and thou shalt carry it inp 
to Jerusalem" (2 Chron. 2:16). So also similar arrangements weire 
made for the construction of the second temple, by Zerubbabel 
(Ezra 3:7). Here also Jonah embarked on his ill-fated voyage w^h^p 
he sought to "flee unto Tarshish from the presence of the Lord" 
(Jonah 1:3). 

The place also has an interesting connection with Christian his- 
tory, for a church was established here at a very early date. Ilexe 



■118 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Peter raised Tabitha (Dorcas) to life (Acts 9:36-42) after which 
"he tarried many days in Joppa with one Simon a tanner." After 
Dorcas walking through the narrow, crooked, and dirty streets 

of this town, we started eastward along the Jerusalem 
road to visit the Russian Settlement, about one mile distant, where 
the site of the house of Tabitha and her rock tomb are shown. A 
church is built on the spot. This we entered, and spent some time 
viewing the many paintings exhibited, which consist principally of 
different events of Peter's life. A large painting over the door shows 
Peter in the act of raising Dorcas to life. We climbed a circular 

stairway leading to 
the top of the church 
tower and from this 
point obtained an ad- 
mirable view of Jop- 
pa and the sea on the 
west and the plain of 
Sharon on the east. 
It is said that in 
clear weather the 
view northward ex- 
tends to Mount Car- 
mel. Descending, we 
passed out through 
the beautiful gardens in this Settlement and came to the reputed rock 
+owli nf Tabitha, into whicu we descended. 

Returning to the city, we passed to the southwest part of the town, 

where we were shown the house of Simon the tanner, by the seaside 

(Acts 10:6). Here, we were told, Peter had his fa- 
House of Simon . . .i i" , i t,- ^ ^ i j . 
the Tanner mous vision on the housetop, by wnicn he was led to 

go to the household of Cornelius and thus open up the 
gospel to the Gentile world. Passing through the old house to the 
rear, we climbed the stone steps leading up to the housetop where the 
apostle engaged in prayer, while they "made ready" his meal below. At 
this point the view was very beautiful. The house itself is old ; but that 
it really dates from the time of Peter is more than doubtful to 
me, since we know that the town has been destroyed at different times 
in war, and it is not likely that this particular house escaped the 
general ruin. Thus, during the Jewish war the town was destroyed, 
but was quickly rebuilt, after which it was again destroyed by Ves- 
pasian as being the haunt of pirates. It was also captured and de- 




Crrave of Taliitlia 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



119 




120 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

stroyed two or three times during the period of the crusades. But, 
after all, there was considerable satisfaction in being in the very 
place where the apostle Peter tarried many days, and where God mi- 
raculously opened up the door of faith to the Gentiles. 

Of late years Jaffa has been a growing and prosperous town, cele- 
brated for its gardens and extensive orchards of delicious fruit. Its 

annual exports of fruit, especially of oranges, is very 
Characteristics large. The western traveler who, unacquainted with 

life and conditions in the East, lands at this gate- 
way to Palestine, is certain to be deeply impressed with the Oriental 
character of the place. To force his way through the narrow, 
crooked streets, thronged with busy citizens, foreign pilgrims, wild 
Arabs, camels, mules, horses, donkeys, and dogs, is indeed a novel 
experience ; while to stop on some corner and observe the noisy, quarrel- 
some, ragged, and filthy rabble, many of whom are blind and some 
leprous, causes the mind to wander back to life and sanitary conditions 
in the West. As one writer has said: "I was reminded of Dorcas, 
and the widows around Peter exhibiting the coats and garments which 
that benevolent lady had made, and I devoutly hoped she might be 
raised again, at least in spirit, for there is need of a dozen Dorcas 
societies in Jaffa at the present time." 

At two o'clock in the afternoon we took the train for Jerusalem. 
As we rode along through the extensive orange-gardens forming the 

environs of Jaffa, and into the luxuriant plain of Sha- 
The Plain of ,, . , , . „ , , 

Sharon von, the , mingled spicery oi orange-, lemon-, apple-, 

apricot-, quince-, and plum-trees in blossom floated in 
upon the air. This natural' beauty, extolled even by ancient prophets, 
who wrote of the "excellency of Carmel and Sharon" (Isa. 35: 2), pre- 
sented a pleasing contrast with the dreary wastes of sand forming the 
everlasting environment of the narrow country of Egypt. Toward the 
east the mountains of Judea were visible. Our interest was aroused 
to its highest point, for every spot upon which our eyes rested seemed 
to poS'sess a special sacredneSs om account of its historic associations. 
A Mohammedan sheikh, a resident of Jerusalem, occupied a seat in 
the train with us, and, being of a liberal turn of mind, seemed to ap- 
preciate the character of our work, which Brother Ouzounian ex- 
plained to him ; and he also rendered much assistance to us by point- 
ing out the many places of interest along the route to Jerusalem. 

At the distance of twelve and one-half miles from Jaffa we came 
to Lydda, a town which is first mentioned after the captivity, and 
which has passed through many vicissitudes during the past centuries. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LANP , 121 

Its connection with the apostle Peter, in the gospel history, was the 
T ,^^ point of impojrtance to us, for it was here that ^neas 

was healed, after which a great revival of religion took 
place. The Bible account is as follows : 

"And it came to pass, as Peter passed throughout all quarters, 
he came down also to the saints which dwelt at Lydda. And there 
he found a certain man named ^neas, which had kept his bed for eight 
years, and was sick of palsy. And Peter said unto him, JEneas, 
Jesus Christ maketh thee whole: arise, and make thy bed. And he 
rose immediately. And all that dwelt at Lydda and Sharon saw 
him, and turned to the Lord" (Acts 9:32-35). 

According to Moslem tradition, Mohammed declared that at the 
last day Christ would slay Antichrist at the gate of Lydda. 

Shortly after leaving Lydda, we came to the station Er Ramleh. 
The town is surrounded with beautiful orchards and with sycamores 
Historic Sites ^^^ plum-trees. The land is fertile and yields rich 
crops, but the town itself is unimportant. There is 
a tradition that this was the home of Joseph of Arimathea, the rich 
man who buried Jesus (Matt. 27:57). This story is probably a 
fabrication. A little farther along, on the right of the railway, we 
could see some remains of Ekron, one of the five chief cities of the 
Philistines (Josh. 13: 8) ; and on a hill to the left, the ruins of Gezer, 
a city of the Canaanites which was captured by Pharaoh and given 
to his daughter, the wife of King Solomon, as her dowry (1 Kings 
9:16). Here the crusaders under Baldwin IV defeated Saladin in 
1177. 

Recent excavations by the Palestine Exploration Fund have brought^ 
to light much of the ancient history of this town which consisted of 
fi,ve main epochs. "The lowest stratum contains cave-dwellings, with, 
flint implements [probably 3,000-2,000 B. C.]. The numerous Egyp- 
tian seals, rings, and other ornaments in the Canaanitish stratum above, 
this [about 2,000-1,000 B. C] shows how great was the influence o£ 
Egyptian culture at that remote period. Higher up, the periods of 
the Jewish city, before and after the exile, were clearly distinguishable. 
Some of the caves used as graves contained numerous weapons of_ 
bronze. On the saddle between the two heights lay the ancient sanc- 
tuary, with 'mazzeboth' or standing stones, and under its pavement 
were large clay vessels containing the bodies of children, doubtless 
used, in sacrifices." * 

At the distance of about twenty-five miles from Jaffa our train, 
entered the "valley of Sorek," where lived the woman whom Samson 



122 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

loved, and who was the means of his overthrow (Judg. 16:4). A 
Samson little farther along the mountains began, and shortly 

after entering them we saw, high up in the rocks, 
the mouth of a grotto knoWn as Samson's cavern. The story of 
Samson (Judges 13-16) is localized in this district. 

Bittir, in the mountains of Judea, was formerly a strongly fortified 
place which played an important part in the last great insurrection 
gj^.j the Jews made against the Romans. In the early part 

of the second century a Jew named Barcocliba an- 
nounced that he was the Messiah, and the Jews in great nuuibers 
flocked to his standard and espoused his cause. They took possession 
of Jerusalem and about fifty other fortified places. The Emperor 
Hadrian sent to Britain for Julius Severus, one of his ablest generals, 
who succeeded in regaining Jerusalem and other places. Barcochba 
retired to this mountain fastness ; and it was three and one-half years 
before the Romans succeeded in capturing it (A. D. 135), when a ter- 
rible massacre of the inhabitants took place. 

About six o'clock in the evening our line traversed the valley of 
Rephaim, where David defeated the Philistines (2 Sam. 5:18), and 
soon in the distance appeared the one great object of our desire — • 

JERUSALEM. 

JERUSALEM 

From very early ages Jerusalem has been the theme of song and 
story. "Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is mount 
Zion, on the sides of the north, the city of the great King" ( Psa. 48 : 2 ) . 
It existed in the time of Abraham, when "Melchisedek king of Salem" 
went forth to meet the patriarch on his triumphant return from the 
battle of the kings (Gen. 14:18). That the city anciently called 
Salem was none other than the Jerusalem of later ages is shown by 
the words of the Psalmist, "In Salem also is his tabernacle, and his 
dwelling-place in Zion" (Psa. 76:2). After the time of Abraham it 
fell to the Jebusites, who called it Jebus, then the two words were 
united in one — Jerusalem — and is first referred to by this name in 
Josh. 10: 1. After the death of Joshua the children of Judah fought 
against the Canaanites and captured and burned Jerusalem (Judges 
1:8); still we learn that "the children of Benjamin did not drive out 
the Jebusites that inhabited Jerusalem" (verse 21). At. a later time 
David led his forces from Hebron and captured the stronghold of 
Zion, where he established his capital, and which after him was called 
the city of David (2 Sam". 5:7, 9). 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



123 




124 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Natural 
Situation 



The natural situation of Jerusalem is peculiar, as it lies near the 
summit of a broad mountain ridge 2,500 feet above the level of the 
sea. "In several respects," says Stanley, "its situation 
is singular among the cities of Palestine. Its eleva- 
tion is remarkable; occasioned not from its being on 
the summit of one of the numerous hills of Judea, like inost of the 
towns and villages, but because it is on the edge of one of the highest 
1 tablelands of the 

country. Hebron 
indeed is higher by 
some hundred feet, 
and from the south 
accordingly ( even 
from Bethlehem) , 
the approach to Je- 
rusalem is by a 
slight descent. But 
from any other side 
the ascent is per- 
petual; and to the 
traveler approach- 
ing the city from 
the east or west, it 
must always have 
presented the ap- 
pearance beyond 
p.ny other capital of 
the then - known 
world — we may say 
beyond any impor- 
I tant city that has 

ever Existed on the earth — of a mountain city ; breathing, as com- 
pared with the sultry plains of Jordan, a mountain air; enthroned, 
as colmpared with Jericho or Damascus, Gaza or Tyre, on a moun- 
tain fastness." 

TJi^ , mountain tract on which Jerusalem stands extends through 
Pales|^ne from the Plain of Esdrafejon on the north to a point oppo- 
site the southern end of th6 Dead Sea. It is about twenty or twen- 
ty-five miles wide, everywhere rocky, uneven, and mountainous, cut 
up by deep valleys running east and west. The surface of the prom- 
ontory on which the city stands slopes toward the east, terminating 




Jerusalem Jews 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 12S 

Etbruptly on the brink of the deep Valley of Jehoshaphat. The city 
stands within the fork of two ravines, the Valley of Jehoshaphat 
on the east, and the Valley of Hinnom on the south and west. ;A 
slight depression known as the Tyropoeon Valley traverses the city 
from north to south. This was formerly a d6ep valley, at least sixty 
feet below the present level, running from the vicinity of the present 
Damascus Gate on the North to the W^ell Gate on the south, sepa- 
rating the narrow, abrupt east hill from the west hill. : ; 
On the west side of this valley was Mount Zion, on which strong- 
hold David kept the national shrine — the ark; while <jn the east ^i<ie 
2JQJJ is Mount Moriah, where the palace and temple^ 'tif 
Solomon afterwards stood. When Solomon built th-e 
temple on the east hill and transferred the royal residence thither, 
the name of Zion was also transferred to that place, as we see jb^ 
such references as Micah 4:2, and Isa. 8:18. Later Zion becanie 
a romantic name for the whole city. The early writers, however, 
made a clear distinction between Mount Zion and Jerusalem (see 
Isa 10:12). The breadth of the whole site of the city from the 
Valley of Hinnom near the Jaifa Gate on the west to the brink 6f 
the Valley of Jehoshaphat on the east, is about one-half mile. Viewed 
from the standpoint of ancient warfare it was naturally a strong- 
hold, as is shown by the fact that the nation of Israel was un- 
able to dislodge the Jebusites from its possession until the time of 
David. n 

I suppose that no city on the earth has suffered as much from 
war and sieges as has the city of Jerusalem, Time and again it has 
been razed to the ground, and as often rebuilt. I 
Jerusalem have no complete record of its vicissitudes, but know 

that it has been captured in war at least twenty-five 
times since its conquest by King David; while at other times it has 
been surrendered to conquering armies without the usual struggle 
and consequent destruction. 

The city reached the height of its splendor and glory under Sol- 
omon, who crowned his achievements by the construction of the mag- 
nificent temple on Mount Moriah. But after the di- 
Decline vision of the kingdom under Rehoboam, it began to 

decline. In 586 B. C, Nebuchadnezzar, after a long 
siege, destroyed the city and carried the remaining' inhabitants in 
captivity to Babylon. After the return the temple was rebuilt ; also 
the avails were restored in the time of Ezra and Nehemiah, 455 B. C- 
Ag'ain it was sacked, and its Walls leveled with the ground, by AntI©- 



126 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

chus of Syria, in 168 B. C. Afterwards it became tributary to Rome 
and under Herod regained much of its former magnificence; for he 
greatly adorned the place and built a beautiful temple, which was 
standing in the time of the Savior. In A. D. 66 the city was taken 
by a party of Jews who had revolted against Rome, and the insur- 
rection becoming general throughout Palestine, Vespasian led his 
forces into the country and first quelled the disturbance in Galilee, 
and then proceeded toward Jerusalem. Aifairs at Rome required his 
presence, and Titus, his son, was entrusted with the military opera- 
tions. Jerusalem then endured the most terrible siege in its history, 
but was finally taken (A. D. 70), the temple burned, and the city 
completely destroyed. 

For fifty years it lay in utter ruin and then was partly rebuilt 
by Adrian. This monarch placed a marble statue of a hog over the 
gate facing Bethlehem, and erected a temple to Jupiter. The Jews 
were incited to revolt, and under the leadership of Barcochba, the 
pretended Messiah already referred to, regained poissession of the 
city. But this revolt was crushed by the tremendous power of the 
Romans, and from this time (135 A. D.) dates the final dispersion 
of the Jews. The Romans then rebuilt the city as a Roman colony, 
the Jews being forbidden on pain of death to even enter it. A temple 
to Jupiter was erected on Mount Moriah where the temple, of Jehovah 
formerly stood; and even the name of Jerusalem was suppressed, 
the name ^Elia Capitolina being substituted. 

In the time of Constantine, however, the city became decidedly 
Christian; churches were built, and efforts were made to identify 
certain places regarded as sacred by believers in Christ. Constan- 
tine modified the edict against the Jews, allowing them to return to 
Jerusalem once each year to wail over the desolation of "the holy 
and beautiful house" in which their fathers worshiped. In 614 A. 
D. the Persians took the city by storm; and shortly after this dam- 
age was repaired, it fell into the hands of the Mohammedans, 636 
A. D. In 1099 the crusaders stormed the city and took it, arid 
made it the capital of a Christian monarchy, which was, in turn, 
subverted by Saladin in 1187. In 1517 it fell into the hands of 
the Turks, and has remained a part of the Ottoman empire until 
the present day. 

The traveler who reaches Jerusalem with his mind filled with the 
glories of its past history is apt to experience a feeling of disap- 
pointment. The changes of time, multiplied by the terrible changes 
of war, have well-nigh obliterated the glories of its past — only a 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



127 




128 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

few traces of the ancient city of David and Solomon remaining. Still 
there is a great degree of satisfaction in the thought that one is 

standing upon ground, every foot of which is sacred 
First'lmpresSons ^^^^ historic associations. The general appearance 

of the country remains the same. The valleys of Hin- 
nom and Jehoshaphat are still; the natural boundaries on the west, 
south, and east, enclosing the sacred Mount Moriah and Mount Zion ; 
while yonder toward the east rises 'the Mount of Olives, a special 
guardian, as it were, of the whole scene. 

One writer has said that "the capitals of antiquity were all marked 
by different civilizations. The dream of vRome was conquest; of 
Athens, beauty ; of Babylon, pride ; of Thebes, eternity. The chief 
glory of Jerusalem was not martial valor, or artistic merit, or osten- 
tatious pageantry, or monumental prejudices, liwt keligion ! This, 
its dominant spirit, has invested it with sacred interest and holy memo- 
ries, and no one who visits it in this spirit will ever be disappointed.'* 

MODERN JERUSALEM ' '^ 

The modern town proper is enclosed by a wall thirty-eight and 
one-half feet high, forming an irregular quadrangle about two and 
one-half miles in circumference. It has' eight gates, one of which has 
been walled up for centuries. The two chief streets, beginning at 
the Jaffa Gate on the west, and the Damascus Gate on the north, 
intersect in the center and divide the town into four parts ; the north- 
west quarter being occirpied by the Greeks and Franks ; the south- 
west by the Armenians ; the northeast by the Mohammedans ; and 
the southeast by the Jews. The houses are built of stone arranged 
around an open court in,, the center, and generally present no win- 
dows to the street ; therefore the streets themselves — narrow, crooked, 
ill-paved, and excessively dirty- — are merely long lanes with dead walls 
on each side. Some of them are^vaulted over. 

This is a city where solemnity reigns. As one writer has well 

said : "There is no warm iior bright color here ; all is grim and gray 

except the blue tiles in the Mosque of Omar. The 
Wliere . . 

Solemnity shadow of the crucifixion rests on the place forever; a 

Reigns strange stillness , reigns, and laughter would seem like 

laughter beside an open grave. Women, veiled in white, 
glide through the dark, crooked alleys like tenants of a" city of spec- 
ters, and even the children, subdued by the overwhelming gloom, are 
silent beyond the wont of Orientals. Ruins, ruins at every handf 
Well has the prophecy been fulfilled: 'Jerusalem shall become heaps." 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



129 



The very stones of the streets are dismal, worn away with burdens 
borne since they rang with the tramp of legions and clattered with 
the brassy armor of the masters of the earth. Outside the walls — 






- 7 










The Tower of Bavid 



saddest sight where all is sadjiess^ — are ancient Jews copie merely to 
die in the land of their love.; A few, in whom there i? much, guile, 
offer for sale talismans, gems of magic, rings of occult power^ Tiie 
greater number sit in the sun, motionless as statues, without the dig- 



130 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

nity that should accompany age, in poverty past telling, dreaming 
away the day and night — apparently without hope, except to have 
a little holy dust laid on their eyelids when they shall have closed 
them to sleep with patriarchs and seers in the Valley of Jehosha- 
phat." The present population of the city is estimated at 70,000, 
as follows: 10,000 Moslems, 45,000 Jews, and 15,000 Christians. 
The number of Jews has greatly increased during the past few years, 
notwithstanding the fact that they are forbidden to migrate or to 
possess landed property. 

Shortly after our arrival, we secured the services of a dragoman, 
and he kindly assisted us in finding comfortable quarters in the Hotel 
DuFrance, in the new European section outside of the city walls. 
Next morning, April 15, we started out to view the chief places of 
interest. We entered the city by the Jaffa Gate, on the west. This 
entrance is constructed (like all of the old gates of the city) so as 
to form an angle in passing between its towers ; in other words, one 
must make a quarter turn in order to enter. In the huge gate itself 
there is a small door which was probably used in cases of emergency 
after the large gate had been closed. This was pointed out to us as 
the "needle's eye," through which even a camel could with difficulty pass, 
after being relieved of its load. A portion of the wall to the south of 
the gate was removed in 1898 to form a passage for the German em- 
peror, and through this opening much of the traffic now passes. To 
the southeast of the gate stands the Citadel, or so-called "Tower of 
David," a building consisting of an irregular group of towers de- 
signed for defense. It stands upon a massive substructure which, 
rising from the moat at the bottom, slopes inward at an angle of about 
forty-five degrees. The northeast tower, the lower part of which 
consists of large drafted blocks, is said to correspond with the Pha- 
sael tower of Herod's palace, and is a good example of the ancient 
wall towers. 

We passed eastward along David Street, one of the two chief 
streets of the city, extending from the Jaffa Gate to the wall of the 
David Street Temple Area on the east. This street has been termed 

the "Broadway of Jerusalem," but as we crowded our 
way through the animated mass of pilgrims, travelers, camels, don- 
keys, and dogs, we concluded that it would be much more appro- 
priate to call it a narrow way. The street is lined with bazaars in 
which articles of all kinds are offered for sale. Soon we turned to 
the left and entered the "Street of the Christians," another narrow 
lane in some places resembling a tunnel, being vaulted over. Soon 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



131 



our dragoman entered a shop on the left, and we followed. From a 
window in the rear we looked out on the Patriarch's 
Pool, the construction of which is ascribed to King 

Hezekiah. This pool is 240 feet long and 144 feet wide. A few days 



Hezekiah's Pool 




David Street, Jerusalem 



previous to this some of our company had a conversation regarding 
the argument advanced by some that the three thousand converts on 



132 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



the day of Pentecost could not have been baptized by immersion, since 
it was too far to take them to the Jordan for that purpose. So while 
we stood looking at this pool. Brother Ouzounian remarked that the 
entire number of converts could easily have been baptized in this one 
place; not to mention the numerous other pools that were located in 
and around the city. 




Fool of Kei^ekiah 



Coptinuing our way along the Street of the Christians, we came 
to a covered passage diverging to the right, which we entered, and, 

descending a few steps, came out on an open space in 
Holy^'sepulcjier front of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This old 

church, with its large dome surmounted by a guilded 
cross, occupies the site which has for centuries been held sacred as the 
Golgotha of the New Testament. Eusebius records that during the 
reign of Constantine the tomb of the Savior was discovered; and 
it is a fact of history that the M|other of the emperor, Helena, made 
a pilgrimage to Jerusalem and superintended some excavation work 
in which, it was claimed, she recovered: the true cross of Christ. A 
Church of the Holy Sepulcher was consecrated here in 336, but it was 
'fifter^afds destroyed. The Christians' have m'aftBigied t(j ike'dp a ch^l^eh 
"in 'this place nearl}^ all the timey iiotMthstarldiiigt thie Ifl^ny' destnafc- 



'^'HROUGH THE HOLY LAND 133 

tions that have occurred. The present building is about one hundred 
years old. Some parts of it, however, are quite ancient. 

We approached the south entrance through the court, which was 
pretty well occupied by traders and beggars. In front of the door 
we were shown the gravestone of Philip d'Aubigny, an English cru- 
s_ader. Entering, we first came to the vestibule in which the Moslem 
custodians sit ; and then passing straight ahead, we came to the Stone 

of Unction, on which the body of Jesus is said to have 
Stone of j^^^ when it was anointed by Nicodemus (John 

19:39, 40). It is a reddish-yellow, marble slab, seven 
fpet long and two feet wide, surrounded by numerous lamps. We are 
informed that the stone has often been changed, still the people re- 
gard it with the highest veneration. While we stood looking at it a 
number of people knelt by it in a very devoted, reverential manner 
and kissed it. It reminded us of what we had seen in St. Peter's, in 
Rome, when the people of all classes pressed forward eagerly to kiss 
the gx^eat toe of St. Peter's statue. A few yards distant a second 
stone marks the spot where the women stood while witnessing the 
anointing. 

We next entered the rotunda of the sepulclier and approached the 
Chapel of the Holy Sepulcher, which is in the center of the rotunda, 

beneath the dome. This chapel is a building twenty- 
H^irsepulcher ^^^ ^^^* ^°^S ^^^ seventeen and one-half wide. At the 

east end there is a sort of antechamber, and from this 
we entered the so-called Angel's Chapel, eleven feet long and ten feet 
wide, which contains fifteen lamps ; five belonging to the Greeks, five to 
the Latins, four to the Armenians, and one to the Copts. In;4;the 
center is a stone, set in marble, which is said to be the one that:.cov- 
ered the mouth of the tomb and was rolled away by the angel. Here 
we were shown the holes in the walls through which the priests pass 
the holy fire on Easter eve. 

I will quote a description of this so-called phenomenon as given by 
another :v\friter : "One of their most curious ceremonies is the so- 
Holy Tire called miracle of the holy fire, which strangers may 

witness from the galleries of the church. The wild 
and uneasy scene begins on Good Friday. The crowd passes the night 
in the church in order to secure places. On Easter eve a procession 
of the superior clergy moves around the sepulcher, all lamps having, 
been carefully extinguished in view of the crowd. Some of the priests 
ejQter the Chapel of the Sepulcher, while others pray and the people 
are. in the utmost suspense. At length,, the fire which has come down 



134 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



from heaven is pushed through a window of the sepulcher, and there 
now follows an indescribable tumult, every one endeavoring to be the 
first to get his tapir lighted. The sacred fire is carried home by the 
pilgrims. It is supposed to have the peculiar quality of not burning 
human beings, and many of the faithful allow the flame to play upon 
their naked chests and other parts of their bodies. The Greeks de- 
clare the miracle to date from the apostolic age, and it is mentioned 

by the monk Bernard as early 
as the ninth century." 

We next passed through a 
low door and entered the Chapel 
of the Holy Sepulcher proper, 
six and one-half feet long and 
six feet wide. Forty-three 
lamps, belonging to the four 
above-mentioned sects, hang 
from the ceiling. The tomb- 
stone is covered with marble 
slabs and is now used as an 
altar. Mass is said here daily. 
Retracing our steps to the 
rotunda, we passed around to 
the west end of the Chapel of 
the Holy Sepulcher and entered 
the small Chapel of the Syrians, 
from which we were shown some 
shaft tombs traditionally rep- 
resented as the tombs of Joseph 
of Arimathaea and Nicodemus. 
At the northeast side of the am- 
bulatory we entered a small an- 
techamber which is said to be the spot where Christ appeared to 
Mary Magdalene after his resurrection. The place 
where Christ stood is indicated by a marble ring in 
the center; while another one, a little to the north, 
shows where Mary stood. In a small chapel adjoining on the north 
we were shown a fragment of the Column of Scourging; It is enclosed 
in lattice work, but there is a stick here which the pilgrims kiss after 
pushing it through a hole and touching the column with it. From 
the antechamber we entered the Latin Sacristy, where we were shown 
the sword, spurs, and cross of Godfrey de Bouillon, the famous crusader. 




Clmrcli of the Holy Sepulchre 



Traditional 
Sites 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 135 

We then entered the part known as the Greek Cathedral. Here, 
in the west part of the church, is a flattened ball which is fabulously 
said to occupy the center of the world. This story is of very early 
origin. Here also are two episcopal thrones, the one on the north 
being designed for the Patriarch of Antioch, and the one on the south 
for the Patriarch of Jerusalem. Returning, we passed around to 
the right into the north hall and came to a dark chapel called the 
Prison of Christ and of the two thieves before the crucifixion. On 
the right of the entrance is an altar containing two round holes 
which are said to be the stocks into which the feet of Christ were 
placed during the preparation for his crucifixion. I did not look into 
these holes, but it is said that there are two impressions in the stones 
below — footprints of Christ! 

We then descended a stairway of twenty-nine steps leading down 
to the Chapel of St. Helena, situated sixteen feet below the level of 
the sepulcher. Here on the right is a seat which is said to have been 
occupied by the empress while the cross was being sought for; while 
thirteen steps more descend to another chapel in which, it is af- 
firmed, the cross was really found. A bronze, life-size statue of the 
Empress Helena represents her holding the cross. 

Returning to the south side of the ambulatory, we ascended a 
flight of steps leading up to the chapels on Golgotha. These chapels 
lie fourteen and one-half feet above the level of the 
Golgotha Church of the Sepulcher. The Chapel of the Rais- 

ing of the Cross belongs to the Greeks. It is forty- 
two and one-half feet long, and fourteen and one-half feet wide, and 
is richly adorned with paintings and costly mosaics. In the east end 
is an opening lined with silver where the cross is said to have been 
inserted in the rock; while the crosses of the thieves stood one on 
each side, about five feet distant. Near this spot we were shown the 
cleft in the rock which was miraculously made at the time of the 
crucifixion (Matt. 27:51). I noticed, however, that the cleft is 
only about ten inches in depth, although it is said to extend to the 
center of the earth! Beneath the Chapel of the Raising of the Cross 
is the Chapel of Adam. A tradition states that Adam was buried 
here, and that the blood of Christ flowed through the cleft of the 
rock onto his head, and restored him to life. 

It is unnecessary to state that we were not convinced of the truth 
of all of these statements; in fact, I doubt seriously whether there 
is truth in any of them. At any rate, there are so many things of 
importance grouped together in a comparatively small space as to 



136 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

render it exceedingly improbable that all should have occurred here. As 
to the site of the true Golgotha, I shall have something to say later on. 
Emerging from the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, we passed 
the Church of the Redeemer, but did not enter, and next visited the 
Russian Excavations, where we were shown the arch 
Remains ^^ ^^^ west gateway in the ancient walls, also a pre- 

served portion of the ancient road. From this place 
we went around to the Abyssinian Monastery, which stands connected 
with the east side of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, and entered 
the court, which is surrounded by a number of miserable and dirty 
huts. Here is an olive tree which is said to mark the spot where 
Abraham discovered the ram when he was about to sacrifice Isaac. 
In the middle of the court rises the dome above the Chapel of St. 
Helena. We then descended a winding staircase of forty- three steps 
leading to the cistern of St. Helena, dating, perhaps, from a period 
even earlier than Constantine. At the bottom a balustrade is hewn 
in the solid rock. The water is bad. We were told that the cistern 
is very deep. We then returned to the hotel for lunch. 

In the afternoon our guide took us first to the French Church, 
where the Sisters were chanting. We were informed that this serv- 
ice progresses continuously, . We then skirted the 
g^gg " north city wall until we came to the Samaria road, 

which we followed out to the Tombs of the Kings. 
Here we descended a rock-hewn staircase of twenty-four steps, 27 
feet wide, leading down to the tombs. Immediately below there are 
huge cisterns cut in the rock, and in the sides of the rock we could 
observe channels cut for the purpose of conducting the water into the 
cisterns. On the left a round arch led through a rocky wall 12 feet; 
thick down three steps into an open court cut in the rod 26 feet: 
deep. This open court is 87 feet long and 80 wide, and on three sides 
we could see a well-worn, shelf-like projection in the rock, said to 
have been seats occupied by mourners. On the west was the richly, 
hewn portal of the rock-tombs. Some of the molding of the portal, 
is still well preserved, showing wreathes, fruit, and foliage. We then 
lighted candles and descended into the tomb-chambers below. Owing 
to our passing rapidly from one apartment to another, I can not now 
remember their exact form and arrangement well enough- to give a good, 
description of them. Some of the passages had at their entrance a 
movable, rolling stone, by which they could be closed. There were, 
many of these apartments, on different levels, and they contained shelf-; 
tombs, aiid shaft-tombs. The entrances to the different chambers: 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



137 







138 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

show that they were once closed by properly fitting stone doors. The 
construction of these extensive catacombs seemed very wonderful to 
us, for they are all cut out of the solid rock. They were very inter- 
esting indeed. By tradition they are referred to the kings of Judah. 

ftom the Tombs of the Kings we passed to the Dominican Mon- 
astemr, visiting the Churches of St. Stephen. The grounds contain 
sevejral rock-tombs in which are found a number of bones. In 460 
the lEmpress Eudoxia built a large church here in honor of St. Ste- 
phen, but it was afterwards destroyed. Later, other churches were 
erected here. It was interesting to note the mosaic pavements, frag- 
ments of columns, etc., now exhibited. 

The next place we visited — the place known as Gordon's Calvary 
— possessed more than ordinary interest to us. For many years 
Golgotha thinking men were led to doubt the correctness of the 

old tradition which identified Golgotha with the posi- 
tion of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. In 1882 General Gordon 
visited this place and identified this mound, or hill, to the north of 
the present city of Jerusalem, as the true site of Golgotha. Many 
other authors have also adopted this view. The Church of the Holy 
Sepulcher lies only a little to the north and west of the center of the 
present city of Jerusalem. According to Matt. 27 : 32 and Heb. 
13: 12 the place of crucifixion was outside of the city; therefore the 
location of the siecond wall of Jerusalem is an important factor. On 
this point Condor says: "The discovery of part of the 'Second 
Wall,' in 1886, shows pretty clearly that the line which — guided by 
the rock levels — I drew in 1878, nearly coinciding with Dr. Robin- 
son's line, is correct, and that the traditional site [of the crucifixion] 
was thus in the time of our Lord within the city walls." 

Another determining point that I have not noticed brought for- 
ward is the matter of population. According to Josephus, Jerusa- 
lem at the time of its overthrow by Titus contained at least 1,200,000. 
Of course, there was a large influx of people from the surrounding 
towns and villages at this time; but supposing that one-half, or even 
one- third, of this number were residents of the city, since the val- 
leys of Jehoshaphat and Hinnom form a natural boundary on the 
east, south, and west, the only direction in which the city could en- 
large to accommodate such a large population would be toward the 
north or northwest. Now, if the position of the Second Wall was 
such as to throw the site of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher out- 
side, it seems to me the place of crucifixion would still be in a thickly 
populated district, which is altogether improbable. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 139 

The site of the true Golgotha must correspond to the following 
requirements in the gospel narrative: 1. It was a place outside the 
city. 2. It was not immediately outside of the wall, but at some dis- 
tance from it; for it was "as they came out" that they found Simon 
the Cyrenean, whom they compelled to bear the cross. Also, it must 
be remembered, Peter and John afterwards ran a foot-race to the 
sepulcher. 3. It was a place of eminence within the clear view of 
multitudes of people who gathered to witness the event. 4. It was 
near a public highway. 5. There was a garden in the place where 
they crucified him. 6. There was a rock-tomb in that garden. 
7. The place was called Golgotha — the place of a skull. It is well^ 
known that the Romans were accustomed to execute their criminals 
in a conspicuous place. And when they were come unto a place called 
Golgotha, that is to say, the place of a skull . . . they crucified 
him" (Matt. 27:33-35). 

Now this hillock to the north of Jerusalem, standing out to itself, 
answers to the thought naturally suggested by the name given in the 
gospel. It is rounded on all sides but the south, where the yellow 
cliff is pierced, far up on the side, by two small caverns which look 
in the distance like human eyes. Edward L. Wilson describes the place 
as "a hill, the face of which, with the horrid semblance of deep sunken 
eyes and broken visage, looks like a human skull. Its locality and 
surrounding features have led modern explorers to accept it as Cal- 
vary." Bishop Merrill says : "We have had a 'mount Calvary' in our 
hymns and songs ; but, of course, there has never been any such 
mountain, unless this little skull-shaped hill out near the Damas- 
cus road was such. The preponderance of testimony, it seems to 
me, favors this locality as the place of the crucifixion." 

We first came to the adjoining garden, which we entered, and we 
followed the keeper around " to a place where we could get a good 
The Garden ^^^^ °^ *^^^ skull-shaped appearance of the hill. We 

were not allowed to go to the top of the hill, for 
the Mohammedans, who have a cemetery there, now prohibit the en- 
trance of strangers. This we deeply regretted, for we longed to stand 
on its height where, we believe, the greatest event of our old world 
took place. But it was a great source of satisfaction to stand in the 
garden at the base of Golgotha and contemplate the stupendous scene 
of nineteen centuries ago. Here the Christ — forsaken of God and 
rejected by man — hung between two malefactors, while the reviling mul- 
titude feasted their eyes on the sight of human agony. No wonder that 
the face of Nature grew black, while the earth reeled and the rocks rent ! 



140 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



In the Church of the Holy Sepulcher we were shown a ball (al- 
ready referred to) which is traditionally said to occupy the center 
of the world; so also the Aksa Mosque, in the Temple Area, is de^ 
clared to be in the exact center of the earth ; but it seemed to me, as I 
stood at the base of Golgotha, that I was indeed in the center of the 
earth, or rather in the center of history; the point toward which all 
of the prophetic lines of Old Testament truth converge, and from 
which all that is grand and glorious in the gospel has diverged. 

My gracious Lord I will adore, 
Through love he did my soul restore; 
I heard him gently calling me • 

In melting tones from Calvary. 

We then passed to another point in the garden where in the 

hillside is an ancient 
rock-tomb which was 
identified by Gordon 
as the grave of Jesus. 
However, a positive 
identification is in the 
nature of things now 
impossible. The tomb 
of Joseph of Arima- 
thasa was doubtless de- 
signed, like many of 
these sepulchers, for a 
family burial-place, 
hence was of sufficient 
size to accommodate a 
number of persons ; but being new, no man had yet been laid in it 
(Luke 23: 53). We entered the door, and then stood 
for a few minutes with minds reverting to the past,^ 
when our Lord lay in silent death, probably within 
this very enclosure, and later, the angel announced the; fact of his 
resurrection. We emerged again into the open with the feeling that 
nothing is lacking either in this place or its surroundings (except a 
stone at the door of the sepulcher) to fulfil all of the requirements of 
the gospel narrative. , r 

Returning by the Samaria road, we came to the Damascus; 'Gate, 
one of the two chief gates of the city. We did not enter however, 
but turned into the Jericho road, which here turns to* the East, and 
Isaon came to the Royal Quarries — rvast caverns extending far down 




At the Reputed Grave of Jesns 



The Grave of 
Jesus 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 14*1 

into the bowels of the earth under the northern part of the city. From 

the mouth the cave increases rapidly in size, sloping downward toward 

the south. Large masses of quarried stones lie scat- 

A ^^^^ tered about, and massive blocks half-cut, still adhere 

Quarries ' ,.,..,. 

to the wall, and some from the ceilmg. This indi- 
cates that the cavern is largely the work of man. Notches were cut 
around the desired block, and then wooden wedges were driven in and 
wetted so as to cause them to swell, thus separating the block from 
the rock. Traces of this mode of operation are still distinguishable. 
The stone is a hard limestone, and when polished, is almost as white 
as marble. Since all of the stone-work of Jerusalem corresponds ' to 
t}ie rock found in these quarries, it is believed that all of the stone- 
work of the temples of Solomon, Zerubbabel, and Herod, as well as 
the massive walls enclosing the Temple Area, and of eJerusalem itself, 
wa,s derived from this source. Our guide informed us that the pas- 
Sjage extends one-fourth of a mile back from its mouth, but I think 
this estimate is somewhat exaggerated. I could not, however, avoid 
being deeply impressed with the prodigious amount of work rrequired 
by such primitive methods to quarry a large piece of ropk, sp far 
down in the earth, and then bring it to the surface. i 15 f^' t 

Continuing our course along the road eastward, we ^oon came to 
a path diverging to the left, leading to the Gi'otto of Jeremiajh, be- 
neath the hill of Calvary. We first passed thrpjigh a^ 
Jeremiah small garden containing fj-agments of columns scat- 

tered al^out. There was not much to see here. Irt 
one apartment we were shown the tomb of Sultan Ibrahim, who is 
greatly revered by the Moslems ; a little farther beyond, was a rack 
shelf with a tomb, which is said to be the tomb of Jeremiah. ' It is 
claimed that the prophet wrote his Lamentations here. It seemed to 
me that any one who was willing to live for a while in that dismal place 
would be able to write lamentations. The place was once occupied 
by Moslem monks. 

As we emerged from the Grotto into the garden, we were met by 
the Mohammedan sheikh whom we had met on the train while coming 
from Jaffa to Jerusalem. He resided in this place, and insisted on 
our entering his house, where we appreciated his kind hospitality. 
The room into which we were ushered seemed to be fitted up specially ; 
there were fine Turkish rugs on the floor, and Arabic mottos on the 
wall, bearing references to Mohammed, Omar and other noted califs. 
The sheikh then informed us that this was their prayer-room, and that 
they did not admit company into it, but since we were priests he 



142 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

concluded to bring us in. We thanked him very much for his kind- 
ness ; but of course we could not tarry long. 

We then continued our way along the Jericho road, skirting the 
north city wall past the Herod Gate, until we reached the northeast 
corner. Here the carriage road turns sharply to the 
Jehoshaphat south, but we diverged to the left and descended into 

the upper Valley of the Kidron. This valley contained 
water during the winter in the time of Christ, but is now entirely dry. 
It is also called Valley of Jehoshaphat; and a tradition, venerable 
with age, founded on an interpretation of Joel 3 : 2, asserts that this 
will be the scene of the last judgment. The Moslems adopted this 
tradition, therefore they bury their dead on the west side, or the east 
side of the temple hill; while the Jews bury on the east side of the 
valley, the western slope of the Mount of Olives. A Moslem tradition 
also states that at this time a fine-wire rope will be stretched across 
this valley from the top of the temple wall on the west to the summit 
of the Mount of Olives on the east. Christ will sit on the wall, and 
Mohammed on the Mount, as judges. All men will be required to pass 
over the intervening space on this rope. The righteous, preserved 
from falling by angels, will cross rapidly; but the wicked will be 
precipitated into the abyss of hell. 

After crossing the upper part of this valley, we climbed the west- 
ern slope of the Mount of Olives, from the summit of which we ob- 
tained a view that will cling to our memories as long 
Mount of Olives ^^ ^^ shall live. To the north of the city lay Mount 
Scopus, where Titus and his legions encamped during 
the siege of Jerusalem. Toward the east the scenery was impressive: 
the wilderness of Judea in the foreground; beyond, the deep-blue 
waters of the Dead Sea, fifteen miles distant and 3,900 feet below our 
position, appeared very close at hand; while still farther in the dis- 
tance arose the blue heights of the mountains of Moab ; a little farther 
north, and nearer to us could be seen the winding course of the valley 
of the Jordan, though the river itself was not visible. But the view 
toward the west — ^how inspiring! Here lay the Valley of the Kidrdn, 
rich with the verdure of spring; while just beyond rose the heights of 
Mount Bezetha and Mount Moriah, crowned with Mohammedan 
mosques, where once the magnificent temple of Jehovah and palace 
of King Solomon stood ; farther in the background rose the still higher 
summits of Mount Zion and Mount Akra. This natural scenery, 
overlaid with the city itself, appeared remarkably impressive in the 
failing light of the evening sun. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



143 




144 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

The Mount of Olives itself, which still has many olive-trees, doubt- 
less presents very much the same appearance as it did nineteen cen- 

«, ^ * /Ml - turies ag-o. It stands so closely associated with Christ 

Mount of Olives » , . -ii i i j -ii. 

during his mmistry that it will ever be regarded with 

feelings of sacredness. Here Jesus sat in full view of the temple when 
he said to Peter, James, and John, "Seest thou these great buildings? 
there shall not be left one stone upon another, that shall not be thrown 
down" (Mark 13: 1-3). It was from this mountain that he made his 
triumphant entry into Jerusalem, when the people hailed him as the 
deliverer of Israel, while he wept over the city because of its coming 
doom (Luke 19:28-44). Jesus also crossed the Mount of Olives fre- 
quently when he made his temporary home at Bethany, probably in 
the house of Mary and Martha, and taught in the temple at Jerusalem 
daily. . 

Passing along the ridge in a southerly direction, we came to the 
Chapel of the Ascension. The scene of the ascension was located upon 
the Mount of Olives as early as the year 315, and Constantine erected 
a circular, roofless building upon the spot. A church was afterwards 
erected here. The present chapel belongs to the Moslems. In the 
cejiter a marble slab, set in an enclosure, contains a deep impression 
of the right foot of Christ (?), the last footprint that he made on 
the ^rth. We knelt by the side of this slab in order to examine 
more carefully the peculiarities of this footprint, but we were not 
convinced, however, that it was genuine. It reminded us somewhat of 
another footprint of Christ that we had seen while in Rome. It is 
certain that the tradition about the ascension's taking*place from this 
part 'of the Mount of Olives is erroneous; for Luke plainly states that 
Christ "led them out as far as to Bethany" (Luke 24: 50), and then 
ascended. | 

We next came to the Latin bualdings, consisting of the Church of 
the Creed and the Church of the Lord's Prayer. The Church of the 
Creed is supposed to be erected on the site where Elusebius says that 
Empress Helena erected a church "over the grotto in which Jesus 
initiated his disciples into the secrets of his doctrines." Here, me- 
dieval tradition asserted, the so-called Apostles' Creed was formed. 
The Church of the Lord's Prayer was erected in cons.equence of a ser- 
mon preached by Peter the Hermit on the spot where, according to 
tradition, Christ taught his disciples the Lord's Prayer. In the Hall 
of the Lord's Prayer there is a beautiful court around which are 
tablets inscribed with the Lord's Prayer in thirty-two languages. 

Descending from the mountain, we came to the Church of the 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 145 

Tomb of the Virgin, where, according to tradition, she was buried by 
the apostles. A church was erected here in the fifth century, but 
was repeatedly destroyed. The present church is al- 
Church of the most entirely below the ground. We descended a beau- 
Virgin tiful staircase of forty-seven marble steps ; on the 
right is a side chapel containing two altars, and the 
tombs of Joachim and Anne, the parents of the Virgin. A small 
chapel to the left contains an altar over the tomb of Joseph, so it 
is claimed. In the center of the east wing of the church proper is 
the so-called Sarcophagus of Mary, where according to tradition, she 
lay until her assumption ; that is, when she was taken to heaven. Here 
are altars belonging to the Greeks and Armenians, also a prayer-recess 
of the Moslems. Omar himself once prayed here. The Abyssinians 
have an altar in the west wing, where there is also a cistern containing 
good water, which is regarded by the Armenians and Greeks as a spe- 
cific against certain diseases. 

On our descent we also passed the Church of St. Mary Magda- 
lene, a splendid modern church surmounted by seven gilded domes, 
which present a magnificent appearance in the sunlight. We were in- 
formed that women were not allowed to enter. As it was getting late 
in the evening, we did not hesitate, but passed on to the entrance to 
the Garden of Gethsemane. This we found closed for the night, so 
had to postpone our visit until another time. Tired with much walk- 
ing, we returned to our hotel. 

On the morning of the sixteenth we again entered the Jaffa Gate, 
but proceeded at once to the east side to visit the Place of the Tem- 
ple, now called Haram esh-Sherif. We were accom- 
"pjjg Place of . . 

the Temple panied by our guide and the kavass of the United 

States consulate. This is the most interesting part 
of Jerusalem — interesting because the chief glories of the city during 
the national life of the Jewish nation centered in this place; and inter- 
esting now because we are absolutely sure of its identity. The Area is 
surrounded by massive walls, measuring on the west side 608 feet in 
length; on the east, 554; on the north, 1,053; and on the south, 927 
feet, enclosing about thirty-five acres of ground. The place is in the 
possession of the Mohammedans ; and therefore on Friday and during 
the Nebi-Musa festival, or Easter week, strangers are entirely pro- 
hibited from entering. We knew that the festival week would begin 
this year on Friday, April 18, therefore we were anxious to make this 
visit at once. When we reached the entrance, however, we were stopped 
by some sheikhs and a mass of excited Mohammedans, who informed 



146 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

us that the place was closed against unbelievers. Our guide, a Mo- 
hammedan, protested ; but it did not seem to avail anything. We stood 
there trying at first to measure the extent of our disappointment if, 
after all, we were to be barred from this place which, above all others, 
we desired to see. The Turkish chief of police seemed inclined to favor 
us, but the word of a certain sheikh appeared to be law. When we asked 
our guide why they should close two days earlier this year than usual, 
he informed us that at this season of the year a large number of Mos- 
lem pilgrims, many of whom are very fanatical, visit the place, and 
that disorder frequently arises when such come in contact with un- 
believers within the sacred precincts. Only two years ago, he in- 
formed us, two American ladies were shot here by fanatical Moslems 
about the time of the beginning of the festival. The reason why these 
feelings arise among the Mohammedans is because they regard this as 
the holiest of all places after Mecca. Mohammed himself visited the 
place and prayed here, and professed a deep regard for the place of 
the ancient temple. Before he severed himself entirely from the Jews, 
he even commanded the Moslems to turn toward Jerusalem while 
praying. 

While we were waiting a number of Americans and other tourists 
came to the entrance, desiring admittance, some of whom turned away 
disappointed. Our kavass finally left us and went back into the city 
to see some of the Turkish authorities, but returned without success. 
Brother Ouzounian speaks Turkish well, and so he took up the mat- 
ter with the chief of police; and finally we started back to visit the 
chief official. As we had now appealed to the highest human authority, 
we engaged in silent prayer for the Lord to open the way. Finally 
the news came that we could go, and so with happy hearts we entered 
the Temple Area. 

From time immemorial this has been a place of religious sanctity. 
God told Abraham to go into the land of Moriah and offer up Isaac 
Historic Sketch ^po^ one of the mountains there (Gen. 22:2); and 
the Jewish tradition that it took place upon this very 
spot is not altogether improbable. Why God should direct Abraham 
to journey three days from Beersheba to make his sacrifice upon some 
particular mountain in this vicinity is unexplained, unless it was to 
connect this sacrifice in some special manner with the subsequent sac- 
rifices to Jehovah. We know for certain that this is the place where 
the angel stood when about to stretch out his hand in destruction over 
the city of Jerusalem, at which time God was entreated by the prayer 
of David to spare the city. The angel then commanded him to build 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 147 

an altar unto the Lord on this spot; and in order to fulfil the re- 
quirement, David purchased the site from Oman the Jebusite, who 
was using it at the time for a threshing-floor (1 Chron. 21:15-26). 
Afterward, we are told, "Solomon began to build the house of the Lord 
at Jerusalem in Mount Moriah, where the Lord appeared unto David 
his father, in the place that David had prepared in the threshing-floor 
of Oman the Jebusite" (2 Chron. 3:1). The greatest sacrifice, the 
sacrifice of Christ, could not take place on this spot, but Paul con- 
nects type and antitype very well, by saying, "the bodies of those 
beasts, whose blood is brought into the sanctuary by the high priest 
for sin, are burned without the camp. Wherefore Jesus also, that he 
might sanctify the people with his own blood, suffered without the 
gate" (Heb. 13:11, 12). 

The chief object of interest to us within these walls is the Sacred 
Rock, upon which the altar of burnt offerings formerly stood. This 

rock rises about 5 feet above the surrounding pave 
jjqj,^ ment and measures about 58 feet in length, and 44 in 

width. On this rock Oman had the threshing-floor 
above referred to, while the cave beneath (referred to later) was un- 
doubtedly used by him for a grain-bin. That the altar of burnt of- 
fering stood here is proved by the discovery of a channel for carry- 
ing ojff the blood into the Valley of Jehoshaphat. Since the brazen 
altar stood in the court, before the entrance into the holy place, we 
know that the temple proper stood just to the west of this rock. 

The Sacred Rock is now covered by a magnificent mosque, popu- 
larly known as the Mosque of Omar, or Dome of the Rock. This 

building is octagonal in form, each side of which meas- 
Qj^^j, ures about 67 feet, surmounted by a great dome, with 

a total height of 170 feet. The lower part is covered 
with marble slabs, while the upper part is covered with porcelain tiles: 
in the Persian style. This delicate blending of the blue, green, and 
white colors has a beautiful effect. On each side of the octagon where 
no doors appear there are seven windows ; on the other sides, six ; but 
the pair of windows nearest the angle is now walled up. A frieze of 
beautifully inscribed characters, consisting of passages from the 
Koran, runs around the building. Formerly, when the dome was; 
plated with gold, the whole must have presented a magnificent ap- 
pearance. 

The doors, four in number, face the cardinal points. We were 
obliged to put sandals on before entering the Mosque. The interior 
is 174 feet in diameter, divided into three concentric parts. Eight 



148 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 149 

piers and 16 columns form the first part, extending around the out- 
side of the edifice. The shafts of these columns are marble mono- 
liths, differing in form and color. They are antique, 
Decorations probably belonging to the temple of Jupiter which 

formerly stood in this place. Byzantine blocks sup- 
porting small arches are placed upon these columns, while the blocks 
are connected by broad, covered beams. The upper part of the wall 
is adorned with rich and variegated mosaics, representing garlands 
of flowers and other things. Above them, a broad, blue band contains 
verses from the Koran inscribed in gold letters, and bearing refer- 
ence to Christ, as follows : , . 

"Praise be to God who has had no son or companion in his gov- 
ernment, and who requires no helper to save him from dishonor ; praise 
him." "He governs heaven and earth, he makes alive, and causes to 
die, for he is almighty." "Oh, ye who have received written revela- 
tions, do not be puffed up with your religion, but speak the truth only 
of God. The Messiah Jesus is only the son of Mary, the messenger 
of God, God's word which he deposited in Mary. Believe then in God 
and his messenger, and do not maintain that there are three. If you 
refrain from this, it will be better for you, God is one, and far be it 
from him that he should have a son. To him belongs all that is in 
heaven and earth, and he is all-sufficient within himself." "Jesus says, 
'Blessings be on me on the day of my birth and of my death and of, 
my resurrection to life.' He is Jesus, the son of Mary, the word of 
truth, concerning whom some are in doubt. God is not so constituted 
that he could have a son ; be that far from him. When he has resolved 
upon anything, he says, 'Let it be,' and it is. God is my Lord and 
your Lord; pray then to him; that is the right way." How sad that 
this place which for ages witnessed the divine sacrifices pointing for- 
ward to the Son of God should now exhibit in great gold letters these 
inscriptions denying him ! 

The second hall is formed by another series of supports placed in 
a circle. These consist of four very large piers and twelve antique 
monolithic columns supporting the huge dome, which rises above. The 
drum beneath the dome is richly adorned with mosaics, and contains 
sixteen beautiful stained-glass windows. The columns of this inner 
row are connected together by an iron screen through which we could 
view the Holy Rock within. This we enjoyed very much, because we 
were certain of its historic associations. In addition to this, however, 
a number of Jewish and Mohammedan traditions are also connected 
with it. Thus, when Jerasalem was destroyed, Jeremiah, we are told, 



150 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



concealed the ark of the covenant beneath this rock, and according to 
Jewish tradition it still lies buried there; but according to 2 Macca- 
bees 2:4, 5, it was buried in a cave in Mount Nebo. The orthodox 
Jews never enter this Temple Area, for fear that they may commit 
the terrible sin of treading on the Holy of Holies. 

To the north of this rock a slab of jasper is set in the floor. This 
is said to have been the cover of Solomon's tomb, and Mohammed 
drove nineteen golden nails in it. At the end of every epoch a nail 



i 


M^M^Mid 


'uM 


S 


:;. :■; j-rij ,, f#|ttf*lilfNr^ >: saas^ft'--' 




:'M 







Various 
Traditions 



The Sacred Rocb: 

falls out, and when the last nail is gone the end of the world will come. 
One day the devil destroyed all but three and one-half of these nails, 
when he was discovered by the angel Gabriel and his 
purpose of further destruction thwarted. The sheikh 
who accompanied us through the Mosque affirmed that 
those who would place money upon these remaining nails would be 
taken to heaven. Gerald quickly placed a metalik (about one cent) 
over the head of one nail, and appeared very happy when they told 
him that he would surely go to heaven. 

We then passed around to the south side and descended the steps 
leading to the small cave, already referred to, under the rock. Here, 
the Mohammedans say, David, Solomon, Abraham, and Elijah former- 
ly retired to pray, and their respective places are shown. Moham- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 151 

med himself prayed here, and declared that one prayer in this place 
is worth a thousand elsewhere. In the ceiling is shown an impression 
of his head made in the rock ! From this rock, we are told, Mohammed 
was translated to heaven on the back of his steed ; and on the west side 
we were shown a place in the rock, said to be the impression of the 
angel's hand who prevented the rock from following the prophet to 
heaven! On the south side of the Mosque, adjoining the door, are 
a number of Korans of great age. I desired to touch them, but was 
not allowed to do so. 

While all of the temples of the Israelites stood in this place, they 
differed considerably in form, size, etc. The unrivaled temple of Sol- 
omon was completely destroyed at the time of the Baby- 
Tempi^^ ^^"^ lonish captivity. The second temple, the temple of 
Zerubbabel, erected by the Jewish exiles after their re- 
turn, was probably constructed on the same plan as the former one, 
but was greatly inferior (compare Ezra 3: 12 with Hag. 2:3). This 
temple stood about five hundred years, but was falling into decay when 
Herod became king of Judah. During the first part of his reign this 
prince treated the Jews with such severity that he became very un- 
popular. In order to reinstate himself in the good graces of his sub- 
jects he set to work to construct a magnificent temple on Mount 
Moriah, to replace the decaying one. This structure was of immense 
size, and was the one so often referred to in the Gospels. The inner 
part, consisting of a Holy Place and a Most Holy Place, surrounded 
by a court, was made conformable to the Jewish plan, but Herod also 
constructed additional courts. This was doubtless for the sake of 
policj. The Jews carefully excluded all foreigners from the sacred 
precincts of their temples, while Herod had among his subjects numer- 
ous Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, whom he felt constrained to rec- 
ognize in some way; therefore he added a "Court of the Gentiles" sur- 
rounding the court of the Jews. These two courts were separated 
by a low stone wall, and at certain distances columns were erected 
with Greek and Latin inscriptions prohibiting foreigners, under pain 
of death, from advancing further. In the past some have doubted 
whether the Jews, under Roman rule, were empowered to put men to 
death for trespassing in the inner courts of the temple, but the recent 
discovery of one of these inscriptions referred to puts the matter be- 
yond all doubt. It reads as follows: "No foreigner to proceed with- 
in the partition wall and enclosure around the sanctuary; whoever is 
caught in the same, will on that account be liable to incur death." This 
inscribed stone I saw later in the Imperial Museum in Constantinople. 



152 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

This discovery also throws light on certain passages of Scrip- 
ture. The word for sanctuary is the same as the word for temple 
in the passage "he drove them all out of the tem- 
of Partition" P^^'" meaning the inner court, the court of the Israel- 
ites. So also the Jews cried out against Paul for 
bringing an uncircumcised m^n, as they thought, into the temple; 
meaning, not the court of the Gentiles, but the inner court of the 
Jews. So also the expression of Paul about the "middle wall of parT 
tition" between the Jews and the Gentiles is doubtless derived from 
this fact. Paul had often noticed this dividing wall with its inscrip- 
tions threatening death to foreigners, and he regarded it as the sym- 
bol of the exclusiveness of Judaism as opposed to the universality of 
Christianity. 

This was the temple that was entirely destroyed by the legions of 
Titus during the most disastrous siege of all history, A. D. 70. Our 
Later Buildings knowledge of the subsequent history of the place is 
not continuous, but we know some facts about it. Ha- 
drian erected a temple to Jupiter here. Afterwards Julian the Apos- 
tate (fourth century) encouraged the Jews to return to their city, 
and assisted them in rebuilding their« temple on this site, in order to 
prove untrue the words of Christ that Jerusalem should be trodden 
down of the Gentiles. Contemporaneous . historians affirm that fire 
came out of the earth and scorched the workmen and drove them 
away repeatedly, until Julian was forced to abandon his enterprise; 
while Christian apologists of the time made use of it as a well-known 
fact, in their arguments against paganism. Some modern historians 
discredit this statement, but without any reason, so far as I know, 
aside from their own unbelief in miraculous occurrences. Later, the 
calif Omar found the place covered with rubbish which had been 
thrown there by the Christians in derision of the Jews, and he as- 
sisted with his own hands in clearing it away. An inscription in th^ 
interior of the present so-called Mosque of Omar mentions the year 
72 of the Hegira (A. D. 691) as the date of its erection. 

The other buildings in the Temple Area are unimportant except 
the Aksa Mosque, which we next visited. It is situated at the south 
end of the temple grounds, probably about the place 
Aksa Mosque formerly occupied by the palace of Solomon. It 

is probable that it was originally a basilica erected by the Emperor 
Constantine in honor of the Virgin Mary. It is 264 feet long and 180 
feet wide, not reckoning the annexes. As there is not much within to 
interest the reader, I will not attempt to give a general description. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 153 

I remember particularly a beautifully carved, wood pulpit inlaid with 
ivory and mother-of-pearl. On each side of this pulpit was a pair of 
columns close together. A legend asserts that no one can go to 
heaven who can not pass between these columns. We examined them 
and found that they were greatly worn, probably by the passage of 
many people through them, or else by some of the large people's at- 
tempts to make their entrance into heaven sure by enlarging the place 
between the columns. Iron screens connecting the columns now pre- 
vent all passage. 

Beneath the surface of the temple vast cisterns, dating from an- 
cient times, have been discovered. About thirty-five of these have 
been examined, and their combined capacity is about 10,000,000 gal- 
lons. The largest is known as the Great Sea, which is mentioned in 
the Book of Ecclesiasticus. It holds about 3,000,000 gallons. These 
formed an important part in the water supply of Jerusalem, further 
reference to which will be made when we describe Solomon's Pools. 

The temple hill did not present enough level surface to accommo- 
date the large temple, palace, and other structures designed for this 
Substructure locality. To remedy this difficulty, they resorted to 

artificial work. Side walls were laid and the inter- 
vening space filled up; but this work was simplified by the erection of 
massive vaulted substructures beneath. The south side of the Temple 
Area rests almost entirely upon these gigantic substructions. We 
desired to visit these underground vaults, therefore descended a stair- 
case in the southeast corner of the enclosure. First we reached a small 
Moslem Oratory, where we saw a small horizontal niche said to be the 
cradle of Christ. Medieval tradition asserts that this was the resi- 
dence of the aged Simeon, and that Mary spent a few days here after 
the Presentation of Christ in the temple. From this place we descended 
into the large substructions known as Solomon's Stables. There 
are thirteen galleries, the vaulting of which is borne by eighty-eight 
piers arranged in twelve parallel rows. The entire space measures 
273 feet long and 198 feet wide. The drafted stone piers are very 
ancient. The crusaders used this space as stables for their horses, 
and in the angles of the piers can be seen the holes through which the 
animals were tied. Remains of a long stone manger can also be seen. 

Returning to the surface, we proceeded northward along the inside 
of the enclosing east wall. The top part of the wall is modern. Here, 
built in the wall near the top, can be seen the stump of a column pro- 
truding from the wall on both sides. I have already referred to the 
Mohammedan tradition that at the last judgment a wire rope will be 



154 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

stretched from this wall across the valley eastward to the Mount of 
Olives. One end of the rope is to be attached to this stump. A little 
Golden Gate farther along we came to the Golden Gate, which is 

identified by many with the Beautiful Gate mentioned 
in Acts 3:2. Two monolith door-posts used as pillars, and said to 
have been presented by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, are vestiges 
of an ancient gateway. But it is the opinion of some that the Beau- 
tiful Gate belonged to the forecourt of the temple, and not to the outer 
enclosing walls. 

A little to the north of the Golden Gate is a small Mosque known 
as the Throne of Solomon. We were told that Solomon's throne of 

judgment was located here. According to a legend, 
Solomon Solomon was found dead here. "In order to conceal 

his death from the demons, he supported himself on 

his seat with a staff; and it was not until the worms had gnawed the 

staff through and caused the body to fall that the demons became 

aware that they were released from the king's authority." 

In the northwest comer of the Temple Area are barracks at the 

present time. The foundations of the wall at this point appear to be 

ancient, and may have belonged to the fortress of An- 
Fortress of . . . . 

Antonia tonia, a castle which originated in the time of the 

Maccabees. It was greatly improved by Herod, and 
by him given the name Antonia. It was fitted up like a palace, buD 
was in reality a fortress. At each of the four comers was a tower. 
Secret passages connected with the temple courts, through which the 
soldiers could quickly come to quell tumults arising within. This 
was the "castle" into which Paul was carried when the Jews arose 
against him in the temple and intended to kill him; and it was here 
that he gav^e the able account of his conversion and subsequent man- 
ner of life, escaping afterwards from a treacherous conspiracy, through 
the timely warning of his nephew (Acts 21:26-40; 23:10-33). 

We emerged from the Haram esh-Sherif at the northeast corner, 
near St. Stephen's Gate, said to be the gate through which Stephen 

was taken out to be stoned (Acts 7:58). Crossing 
j^j^Q the street which leads to this gate, we entered the 

Church of St. Anne, which is said to occupy the site 
of the house of Joachim and Anne, the parents of the Virgin Mary. 
The interior of the church is 120 feet long and 66 feet wide. A flight 
of twenty-one steps in the southeast corner descends to a crypt hewn 
in the rock. This is said to have been the birthplace of the Virgin. 
The graves of her parents are also shown here, as well as in the Church 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



155 



of the Virgin near the Garden of Gethsemane, already referred to. It 
appears that in the fifteenth century a transfer of the tombs to that 
site took place. 

In the ground belonging to the church an ancient rock-hewn pool 
has been discovered. This pool is claimed by good authorities to be 

the one spoken of in John 5 : 2-4 : "Now there is at 
Bethesda Jerusalem by the sheep market a pool, which is called 

in the Hebrew tongue Bethesda, having five porches. 
In these lay a great multitude of impotent folk, of blind, halt, withered, 
waiting for the 
moving of the 
water. For an an- 
gel went down at a 
certain season into 
the pool, and trou- 
bled the water : 
whosoever then 
first after the 
troubling o f t h e 
water stepped in 
Was made whole of 
whatsoever disease 
he had." The old- 
est Plan of Jeru- 
salem in existence, 
the Madeha Mo- 
saic ( sixth cen- 
tury), locates the 
Pool of Bethesda 
here. Near the en- 
trance we found in 
sixty- five lan- 
guages the words 

of John 5 : 1-9, which contains an account of the healing of the lame 
man at this pool. We descended a flight of steps leading down to the 
water. Only one end of the pool has been excavated, but it appears 
to have been very large. 

We next visited what is traditionally represented as the site of Pi- 
late's judgment-hall, then proceeded along the Via Dolorosa, the street 
along which Christ is said to have traveled enroute to the place of cru- 
cifixion. On the north side of this street we entered the Church of the 




Fool of Betliescla 



156 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Sisters of Zion, a church partly built into the rock ; and descending into 
the vaults beneath, we could trace clearly a large portion of the an- 
Via Dolorosa cient Roman pavement. We could also see lines marked 
on the surface of some of the stones where the Roman 
soldiers amused themselves in playing games. Adjoining this building 
is a Greek Hospice. We descended into the basement of this building, 
where we could trace the continuation of the above-mentioned pave- 
ment. Here are a number of ancient chambers hewn in the rocks. One 
of these chambers is said to have been the prison of Jesus, and we 
were shown the stocks in which his feet were made fast. We were 
not much interested in this story, but were deeply impressd with an- 
other narrative that seems altogether real . 

This place, we were told, was a Roman prison in which condemned 
persons were imprisoned and left to die. In the rock wall two parallel 
Roman Prison notches close together and connected by a hole, fur- 
nished a place for tying the cord which bound the 
prisoner fast. Many of these places could be seen, and it is probable 
that at times many prisoners were at one time bound to these walls 
and abandoned to die. The presence of many bones collected in some 
of the apartments adds a conviction of reality to this account. It 
made us shudder to think of such a fearful sight — the tears and 
groans, blasphemies and useless prayers of the miserable wretches here 
slowly dying amid the horrible stench arising from the partly decom- 
posed bodies of earlier victims ! It was a relief to return to the sur- 
face and step out once more into God's clear sunlight and fresh 
air. 

Continuing by the Via Dolorosa where it turns to the south, we 
came to a medieval house with a small bay window projecting out over 
the street. This is termed the house of the rich man (Dives), the man 
to whom Christ referred in his account of Lazarus and the rich man 
(Luke 16: 19-31). Farther on we came to the Church of the Holy 
Sepulcher, and then returned to our hotel for lunch. 

In the afternoon we went to the northwest part of the city to see 
Dr. Schick's Models of the Temple, a most interesting and instructive 
sight. Here we have the past history, not of the 
Temple temple alone, but of the entire Temple. Area, presented 

chronologically by means of well-constructed models. 
I understand that Dr. Schick was a minister, and that he spent a num- 
ber of years in perfecting these designs. The purpose is to represent 
everything correctly, as near as can be determined by the data sup- 
plied from Biblical and other sources. First the tabernacle is pre- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 157 

sented, the different parts being constructed separately in accord- 
ance with the Biblical description, and then set up. Of course, a 
cheaper gilt is substituted for the gold and silver work. Even the 
high priest and other priests are shown, together with the animals 
and sacrifices. Dr. Schick is dead, but his daughter exhibited the models 
and gave us a very interesting lecture on the subject. After exhibit- 
ing the tabernacle, she led us into the adjoining room where we were 
shown Mount Moriah in its original condition, with the Holy Rock, 
then she proceeded to imitate the work of King Solomon. First she 
placed the vaulted substructions at the sides in order to raise the level 
of the ground, then an enclosing wall was built; and then quickly plac- 
ing together a few pieces, the beautiful temple of Solomon appeared 
on the mountain top ; next the royal palace arose at the south end of 
the Temple Area, etc. We could well-nigh imagine ourselves amid the 
scenes of twenty-nine centuries ago, looking upon the crowning glory 
of Jerusalem. Next followed the destruction of the place by the 
Babylonians, and later the temple of Zerubbabel appeared ; afterwards, 
the magnificent temple and other buildings of Herod in the time of our 
Savior. After the destruction of the place by the Romans, Hadrian's 
small temple of Juipter appeared; and finally, the present Mosques of 
Omar and Aksa, which bear a wretched comparison with some of the 
splendid structures of the past. The entire exhibition was intensely 
interesting. 

Passing to the group of Russian buildings, we entered the hand- 
some cathedral, the interior of which is richly decorated. Our atten- 
tion was drawn particularly to a magnificent, hang- 
Cathedral ^^S lamp of immense size, with a circular band sur- 
rounding it, all overlaid with gold. Services were to 
take place here about 5 P. M., but we did not wait. In the open space 
behind the church we saw an immense column cut out of the native 
rock, but owing to a fracture was never completely severed from its bed. 
It measures 40 feet in length and 5 feet in diameter. 

We returned to the Jaffa Gate, then went around to the south on 
the outside of the walls to visit the Zion suburb at the southwest 
Zion Suburb corner of the modern town, where the city of David on 

Mount Zion was formerly located. As we were pass- 
ing around the corner of the city wall, we met a native returning from 
the Zion quarter, carrying a plow on his shoulder, and for a metalik 
or two I persuaded him to allow me to take his photograph. This 
incident recalled the prophecy of Micah, uttered in the days of Zion's 
prosperity: "Zion shall be plowed like a field" (Jer. 26:18), which 



158 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



is literally fulfilled at the present time. On our right below lay the 
Valley of Hinnom. This Zion suburb was enclosed by the wall of 
David and Solomon, traces of which are still visible near Bishop Go- 
bat's School. In this vicinity are some old cisterns. Recent excava- 
tions here have brought to light some interesting materials, but I am 
not aware that the results have yet been published. However, our 

guide conduct- 
ed us to the remains 
of an old building, 
recently brought to 
light, which he de- 
clared has been 
identified as the Pal- 
ace of David. It 
bears evidences of 
having been a well- 
constructed build- 
ing, and had mosa- 
ic floors. We se- 
cured a handful of 
these mosaics for 
relics. 

We then entered 
the collection o f 
buildings known as 
the En-Nebi Daud. 
Here on the first 
floor we went into 
the so-called Cham- 
ber of the Last Sup- 
per, where Christ dined with his disciples before his apprehension. 
In the subterranean chambers the tomb of David is said to be lo- 
En-NeM Daud cated; but the place is in the hands of the Moslems, 
and they will not permit unbelievers to enter. A 
modern copy of his sarcophagus is shown in a room adjoining the 
chamber of the Last Supper. According to 1 Ki. 2:10, David was 
buried "in the city of David." This expression, which is applied 
to Bethlehem, the birthplace of David, has led some in the past to 
suppose that the prophet was buried in Bethlehem. But we find 
that the expression is also applied to Zion, as follows: "Never- 
theless David took the stronghold of Zion: the same is the city of 




Native with Flow by the Wall of Jerusalem 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 159 

David" (2 Sam. 5:7). "So David dwelt in the fort, and called it 
the city of David" (v. 9). Now, since David reigned thirty- three 
years in Jerusalem and died there, it is only natural to suppose that 
the "city of David" in which he is interred is Mount Zion. This 
is apparently confirmed by the words of Peter: "His [David's] 
sepulcher is with us" (Acts 2:29). A church of the apostles on 
Mount Zion is mentioned in the fourth century and was said to 
stand on the site of the house of John Mark, where the early Chris- 
tians assembled for prayer (Acts 12:12). The scene of the Last 
Supper, also the Pentecost experience, were laid here; and the tomb 
of David in the Church of Zion formed one of the holy places in the 
period of the crusaders. It is highly probable that this identification 
is correct, and thus was fulfilled literally the prediction of the prophet, 
"Out of Zion shall go forth the law, and the word of the Lord from 
Jerusalem" (Isa. 2:3). 

In 1898 Emperor William II presented to the German Catholic 
Society a plot of ground just to the north of the Nebi Daud. Here 
the Church of the Virgin has since been erected. This 
Church of t e ^^ entered. The building, not yet completed, when 
we were there, was being furnished in elegant style, 
with costly mosaics of the most striking and artistic patterns. At 
the sides are six small semi-circular chapels with half-dome tops. Only 
two of these are yet completed, but their decoration is said to have 
cost about 17,000 francs (over $3,000) each. The acoustic proper- 
ties of the church proper are highly objectionable, an ordinary con- 
versation producing a continual roaring sound, echoing from the 
dome above. It is said that this is the place where the Virgin Mary 
died. We also visited the adjoining Museum, where numerous an- 
tique relics are exhibited. 

Just to the northeast of this church the Armenian Monastery of 
Mount Zion is situated, which is said to occupy the site of the House 
of Caiaphas. Here we were shown an altar containing the "angel's 
stone" with which the holy sepulcher is said to have been closed. 
Here also we were shown the place where Peter denied Christ, and 
the court where the cock crew. 

We then entered the southern wall of the modern town, through 

the Gate of Zion, and entering the Armenian Quar- 

St James ^^^ ^^ ^^^ southwest part, came to the Church of St. 

James. This old convent-church was very interesting 

indeed, and well worthy a visit. Many ancient paintings are to be 

seen. The main object of importance to us, however, was the chief 



160 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



sanctuary in the west hall, which is said to be the prison in which 
James the Great was beheaded (Acts 12:2). A large painting shows 
the manner of his death, the head lying on the ground severed from 
the trunk. We then returned to our hotel. 

One thing that, in our estimation, greatly mars the pleasure of 
visiting this city, is the fact that nearly every place which has any 
claim to historic associations is in the hands of some exclusive sect, 
which has taken particular pains to cover it with a church. But this 
is not altogether remarkable, for Jerusalem is the center of the three 




"Apostles' Spring"' Beyond Bethany 



great religions of the world, and therefore we should not be surprised 
here to find everything possessing a religious tinge. But the super- 
stition and formalism, everywhere apparent, are anything but pleas- 
ant; while the fanaticism, jealousy, and exclusiveness of the native 
Christian sects stand out in bold relief against the broad background 
of God's universal love and good will formerly manifested here, and 
through Jerusalem vouchsafed to the world. In view of these things 
it is not surprising that the Jews and Mohammedans should regard 
the Christians with utter contempt. These conditions, so clearly 
manifested everywhere, made our hearts ache ; and as we knelt in 
prayer in an upper room in our hotel, we besought the Lord to grant 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 161 

that the glorious light and truth of pure Christianity may again be 
seen and felt throughout this sacred city, as in the days gone 

by. 

TRIP TO JERICHO, THE JORDAN. AND THE 
DEAD SEA 

Thursday morning, April 17, we took carriage from Jerusalem 
for a side trip to Jericho, the Jordan, and the Dead Sea. The road 
led around the city, giving us another good view of the walls, Da- 
mascus Gate, Grotto of Jeremiah, Golgotha, and St. Stephen's Gate; 
thence descended, crossing the Valley of the Kidron, and passing the 
Garden of Gethsemane ; then gradually ascended as it crossed the 
slope of the Mount of Olives ; and after forty minutes we reached the 
town of Bethany, a description of which I will give later. As we 
passed along the way, our attention was called to the numerous flocks 
of sheep and goats pasturing on the hillsides, attended by shepherds 
who watched them, the same as was done thousands of years ago. 
Our road now descended in long windings until we reached the bot- 
tom of a deep valley, where we came to a watering-place known as 
the Apostles' Spring, the only well between Bethany and the Jordan 
Valley. It is claimed that Christ and his apostles stopped and drank 
here (whence the name), which is quite likely; for any party travel- 
ing from the opposite direction across the wilderness of Judea would 
be glad for the opportunity of resting and refreshing themselves in 
such a place. 

The mountains of the "wilderness" through which we were pass- 
ing were for the most part uninteresting, presenting quite a barren 
appearance. Occasionally some wretched Bedouin 
Samaritan tents by the wayside added a little touch of variety 

to the scene. About half way to Jericho we came to 
an old khan, where a short stop was made. The district here is quite 
deserted, and this is said to be the only place where an "inn" has ever 
stood between Jerusalem and Jericho ; hence tradition localizes 
here the inn of the good Samaritan to which the wounded man who 
fell among thieves was taken, as narrated in the parable of our Lord 
(Luke 10:30-35). This section has long been noted as a haunt 
of robbers. 

Farther on our driver stopped, and we alighted from the car- 
riage, and walked to the top of an elevation to the left of the road, 
from which we could see into a very deep gorge, at the bottom of 



162 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



163 



The Brook 
Cherith 



which is a stream of water. This is usually identified with the brook 

Cherith, where Elijah, while hiding from Ahab, was fed by the ra- 
vens (1 Ki. 17:3-6). High up on the rock wall on 
the side of the gorge a cave has been converted into 
the Monastery of St. George. A more desolate-look- 
ing place would be difficult to imagine; therefore those anchorets, 

who desire to separate themselves from all men, could not do better 

than to take up their abode in 

these almost inaccessible cliffs. 

While looking at this place, we 

remarked, "How such a life con- 
trasts with the earthly life of 

Christ and his first disciples !" 

Jesus mingled freely with the 

multitudes for the apparent 

purpose of touching human life 

on all of its different levels, and 

thus elevating, sanctifying, and 

purifying it. The apostles also 

recognized the fact that if their 

labors were to be of benefit to 

men there must of necessity be 

a point of contact with men. 

Soon we came in sight of the 
Dead Sea and the plain of the 
Jordan far be- 
low ; while to the 
east rose the mountains of 
Moab, Mount Pisgah towering 
above the rest. Entering the 
plain, we passed on our left the 

place where excavations have brought to light the winter palace of 
Herod. On the right we saw the remains of a large pool which for- 
merly belonged to an irrigation system which made this district fer- 
tile and beautiful. A little farther along we crossed a bridge over 
the valley and entered the modern village of Jericho. We did not hesi- 
tate here, but turned to the left and drove perhaps three-fourths of 
a mile to the northwest to the ruins of the ancient Jericho, near the 
"Sultan's Spring." The excavations of Professor Sellin and the Ger- 
man Oriental Society within the last five years, have brought to light 
many interesting things. It is shown that there existed an outer and 



Jericho 




Convent of St. Georg'e 



164 MISSIONAJIY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

an inner wall, and part of the actual masonry has been unearthed,, 
showing a peculiar form of construction, resting upon huge squared 
stones. 

This was formerly a large and prosperous city situated near the 
foot of the mountains. It was often referred to as the "city of palm 
trees" (Deut. 34:3), as these trees were then quite numerous. Here 
journeyed the spies from over Jordan and lodged in the house of 
Rahab, which was built on the town wall. Yonder in the near-by 
mountains, perhaps in one of the numerous caves, they hid them- 
selves while search by the men of Jericho was being conducted over 
the plain of the Jordan (Joshua 2). Upon these foundations before 
us were reared those large walls around which the confident army of 
Joshua marched for seven days, and these very hills echoed back the 
shrill blasts of the rams' horns, while the walls of the city "fell down 
flat" (Joshua 6). These ruins could not fail to produce a lasting im- 
pression on our memory. 

The subsequent history of Jericho is not without interest, how- 
ever. It will be remembered that at the time of its total destruction 
by the Israelites, Joshua said, "Cursed be the man before the Lord, 
that riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho: he shall lay the founda- 
tion thereof in his firstborn, and in his youngest son shall he set up 
the gate of it" (Josh. 6: 26). During the reign of the impious Ahab, 
520 years later, Hiel made such an attempt, and as a result lost his 
eldest son, Abiram, and his youngest son, Segub (1 Ki. 16:34). 
Shortly after the death of Joshua, however, reference is made to the 
capture of the city of palm trees, by Eglon, king of Moab (Judges 
3:13). So also the ambassadors of David, who were insulted by 
the king of Ammon, were instructed to 'tarry at Jericho until their 
beards were grown' (2 Sam. 10:5). As these references are to a 
time prior to the restoration of the city by Hiel, we understand that 
the city was rebuilt shortly after its destruction, but in another loca- 
tion, thereby avoiding the penalty predicted by Joshua. In the time 
of Elisha we find a school of the prophets established here (2 Ki. 2:5). 

The spring of water, above referred to, is termed by the Chris- 
tians "Elisha's Spring." When the prophet tarried at Jericho he 
Elisha 's Swrins ^^^ informed that "the spring of the waters" was 
not good, whereupon he asked for a cruise of salt 
which he took and cast into the waters, and forthwith they were 
healed (2 Ki. 2:18-22). , 

When Palestine was conquered by the Romans, Antony bestowed 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



165 



this district upon Queen Cleopatra as a present. Afterwards it 
passed into the hands of Herod the Great, who greatly improved it 
and spent part of his time here. When this tyrant was lying upon 
Jiis death-bed here, he caused all the nobles of the land to be shut up 
in the circus, or hippodrome, and gave orders that all should be 
znassacred as soon as he died. But his bloody edict was not carried 
into effect (Josephus' Antiquities, XVII, 6, 5). 

So the Jericho that existed in the time of our Savior was a large 
and prosperous place; and it was here that he healed the blind man 
"who sat by the wayside begging (Luke 18:35-43). (As we were 
passing along we encountered a number of these beggars, which remind- 
ed us of the gospel 
narrative.) Here also 
Christ lodged in the 
liouse of Zaccheus, 
and from tliis point 
I)egan his last jour- 
ney to Jerusalem 
(Luke 19). High 
above the other sum- 
mits, some three 
Tniles or more dis- 
tant, rises Mount 
Quarantana, the tra- 
ditional site of 
Christ's temptation. 

The cave in which he is said to have spent his forty days' fast 
is now used as a chapel. 

Having obtained a good view of the ruins and of Elisha's Spring, 
we reentered our carriage and started back to the modern village, pass- 
Modern Jericho ^^S by a fine grove of trees which owes its existence to 
the waters of one of the fountains. Aside from this the 
general aspect of the plain around is one of waste and desolation. Dry, 
sandy, and scorched, the ground which one time flourished with vege- 
tation now lies apparently woi-n out. This district has been described 
as "nothing without water, and everything with it." So it may be 
that if an extensive irrigation system were brought into operation this 
land might be reclaimed. The village itself consists of perhaps forty 
or fifty wretched hovels, constructed of mud, with a small sprinkling 
of stones. The three hundred inhabitants appear to be a vicious, in- 
dolent, degenerate race ; and as we were warned against their thievish 




Ulisha's Fountain near Jerlclio 



166 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




g 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



167 



The Plain of 
the Jordan 



propensities, we kept a sharp lookout on our belongings. We stopped 
for lunch at the Jordan Hotel. 

In the afternoon we took up our journey in a southeasterly direc- 
tion across the uncultivated plain of the Jordan. There was nothing 
here to interest us, aside from its past associations. 
Here, some place, was Gilgal where the hosts of 
Joshua encamped before proceeding to encompass Jer- 
icho (Josh. 4: 19). We remembered also, far back at the beginning 
of Israelitish history, when the separation between Lot and Abraham 
took place. Lot chose the fertile plain of the Jordan, which was wat- 
ered as "the garden of the Lord" (Gen. 13: 10). So, also the cities of 
Sodom and Gomorrah were probably located somewhere in this plain. 

THE JORDAN RIVER 

Our eyes were eagerly watchmg to catch the first view of the Jordan, 
the most interesting 
river in the world, be- 
ing sacred alike to 
Jew, Ishmaelite, Mo- 
hammedan, and 
Christian. But we 
failed to obtain a dis- 
tant view; for a 
thicket of tamarisks, 
willows, and poplars, 
which line its banks, 
obstructed our vision 
until we stood almost 
on its banks. The 
water is muddy and 

very swift, hence does not possess the majesty and beauty of our 
rivers in America. I do not wonder why Naaman the leper thought 
that the clear waters of Damascus were better than the Jordan. The 
river is very crooked and has a fall of more than 600 feet in its course 
from the lake of Tiberius to the Dead Sea. The distance between 
these points is only a little over 60 miles, while the course of the 
river is over 185 miles. Lieutenant Lynch, who navigated the stream 
in a boat, reported twenty-seven threatening rapids. 

Abraham must have crossed this river when he emigrated to 
Canaan; and it appears that he was within sight of the river when 
the separation between him and Lot took place (Gen. 13: 10). Later, 




Our Party on the Jordan River 



168 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Jacob said, "With my staff I passed over this Jordan" (Gen. 32: 10). 
It was also crossed by Gideon (Judg. 8: 4, 5), Abner (2 Sam. 2: 29), 
David (2 Sam. 17 : 22), and Absalom (2 Sam. 17 : 24. The tribes of Reu- 
ben, Gad, and the half-tribe of Manasseh, whose residence was on the 
east side of the Jordan, doubtless crossed it frequently on their way to 
worship in the land of Canaan. Job also was acquainted with this river 
( Job 40 :23 ) , and Jeremiah speaks of "the swelling of Jordan" ( Jer. 12:5). 
The Jordan was also the scene of some of the notable miracles of 
Old Testament history. Here, opposite Jericho — probably near 

where we were standing — Joshua and the hosts of Is- 
Notable Miracles ^^^^ crossed dryshod ; on which occasion it is said that 

"the waters which came down from above stood and 
rose up upon an heap . . . and those that came down toward 
the sea of the plain . . . were cut off . . . and all the Is- 
raelites passed over on dry ground" (Josh. 3:16, 17). Here also 
Elijah, on the day of his translation to heaven, when he had come 
from Jericho, accompanied by Elisha, "took his mantle, and wrapped 
it together, and smote the waters, and they were divided hither and 
thither, so that they two went over on dry ground" (2 Ki. 2:4-8). 
On his return, Elisha duplicated the miracle by employing the same 
mantle which had fallen from his ascending master (vs. 13, 14). Of 
course, the exact place of these events can not be determined. Naaman 
the Syrian was directed by the prophet to dip himself in the Jordan 
seven times, that he might be recovered from his leprosy (2 Kings 5). 
Here also Elisha caused the iron to swim (2 Ki. 6:5, 6). 

But the event which above all others renders the Jordan sacred 
to Christians is John's baptism of the multitudes, and especially his 
Baptism of Jesus baptism of Jesus (Matthew 3). This is said to have 

occurred at the very spot where we were. In com- 
memoration of this event large numbers of pilgrims bathe in the river 
at the time of Easter each year. We appreciated the fact that this 
place of Bible interest remained in its natural state, unmarred by the 
hand of man: it was not covered by a church, and no excavations 
were needed to bring it to light. We stood there with a feeling of 
assurance that no material change had taken place in its immediate 
surroundings since the days when the multitudes lined its banks dur- 
ing John's baptismal services. 

I also had the privilege here of following our Lord's instructions 
given to his ministers in the last commission. Brother Pambukdjian, 
who had been in our meetings in Alexandria and Cairo, and had an- 
nounced his acceptance of new light, was led to renounce his infant 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



169 




p^ 



Pi 



170 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



baptism in the Armenian church, and therefore desired to be immersed 
in the Jordan. So our little missiorvary company knelt in prayer by 

the riverside and thanlied God for the gift of his Son 
tismal Service who, in this place, set the example for us to follow, 

receiving on that occasion the divine approbation, "I 
am well pleased." And as we opened our song-book and began to 
sing, the precious words of Brother Warner's baptismal hymn seemed 
suddenly to acquire a deeper meaning than heretofore: 



Down into the flowing river, 
Lo, the Lamb of God we see; 

There he speaks in clear example: 
Take the cross and follow me. 



Gently buried with my Savior, 
Let mp sink beneath the wave; 

Crucified to earth forever, 
Hence alone to God I live. 




The Dead Sea 

Our brother came forth from the symbolic grave with heart overflow- 
ing with joy. Praise the Lord! We trust that he will walk in all of 
the light received and lead an exemplary Christian life in the future. 

THE DEAD SEA 

We felt loath to leave this sacred spot on the banks of the sacred 
and historic Jordan; but as our time was passing, we could not re- 
main longer; so we reentered our carriage and started across the 
open country enroute to the Dead Sea. The way leads through cur- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 171 

iously shaped, chalk hills. There is no regular carriage road; but as 
the weather was dry, the clayey soil, which is coated with salt and 
gypsum, was hard, so we passed along nicely. In less than one hour 
we arrived at the shore of the Dead Sea, the lowest spot on the sur- 
face of the earth, being 1,290 feet below the level of the Mediter- 
ranean. This body of water is mentioned in the Bible under the names 
"salt sea" (Gen. 14:3), "sea of the plain" (Deut. 3:17), and "east 
^ea" (Joel 2:20). By the Greeks and Romans it was' known as the 
^'Asphalt Sea." The name "Dead Sea" has been applied to it since 
the second century. This sea is 47 miles long, 10 miles wide, and its 
greatest depth, is 1,300 feet. At the southwest end there are large 
•deposits of rocksalt. It is estimated that more than 6,000,000 tons 
of water enter the Dead Sea daily, and as it has no outlet, this im^ 
mense quantity must be carried off by evaporation. As a result of 
"this extraordinary evaporation, the remaining water is strongly im- 
pregnated with mineral substances. The chloride of magnesium, 
largely held in solution, gives the water a very bitter, nauseous taste. 
It is said that fresh eggs will float in it with one-third of their volume 
above water. The human body can be submerged in it only with 
difficulty. 

This sea is regarded as a symbol of death. The Jordan, originat- 
ing in the region of Mount Hermon, and skipping lightly from point 
to point in its descent — symbolic of life and activity — ends here, as in 
death. Later I read the following poem in a paper published in 
Jerusalem. 

I looked upon a sea, All tributary streams 

And lo! 'twas dead, Found here their grave, 

Although by Hermon 's snows Because this sea received 

And Jordan fed. But never gave. 

How came a fate so dire? O sea that's dead! teach me 

The tale's soon told: To know and feel 

All that it got it kept, That selfish grasp and greed 

And fast did hold. My doom will seal. 

And, Lord, help me my best, 

Myself, to give. 
That I may others bless. 

And, like thee, live. 

At this point the view of the sea and the mountains is very beau- 
tiful. From a distance the water appears deep-blue, but close at hand 
Scenic Beautv ^^ assumes a greenish hue. On the east and west sides 
are high, precipitous mountains. On this west side 
was located the wilderness of Engedi, in which David took refuge in 
a cave from the wrath of Saul, and in which he spared the life of the 



172 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



sleeping monarch (1 Sam. 24:1-8). It was now nearly night, so 
we started across the open country on the direct route to Jericho, 
where we arrived at the Jordan Hotel about one hour after dark. 

At five o'clock in the morning we were ready to begin our long 
and tiresome journey up to Jerusalem. Our horses proved unequal 
to their strenuous task, and therefore some of our 
to Bethany party walked up most of the steep grades. As every- 

thing in this wilderness of Judea that could possibly 
interest us had been considered on the going journey, there was noth- 
ing now to hold our attention except the increasing heat of the morn- 




Bethany 



ing sun and the constant climb, climb as we wound around and around 
in the mountains. Arriving at the Apostles' Spring, the driver 
stopped to rest his horses. From this point the ascent is very steep,, 
the long, winding curves of the road finally reaching the top of the 
ridge on which the village of Bethany is situated, at the base of the 
Mount of Olives. Four of our party made this ascent on foot. The 
horses were scarcely able to bring the carriage up. 

Bethany was a place where Jesus frequently resorted (Mark 
11:11, 12). He sometimes lodged here at the house of Mary and 
Martha (Matt. 21:17; John 11; 12:1, 2). Here in the house of 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



173 




Tomb of Lazarus 



174 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Simon the leper, the woman anointed Jesus (Mark 14:3). Near the 
border of this little town Jesus wept with Mary and her friends over 
Bethany ^^^ death of Lazarus, thence proceeded to the grave,. 

and raised her brother from the dead (John 11). 
We went to the traditional tomb of Lazarus. At the entrance we 
secured candles, then descended twenty-two steps into an antecham- 
ber; two steps more lead into the tomb itself — a cave (John 11:38),. 
now lined with masonry. We supposed that Christ stood in this- 
antechamber when he prayed to the Father, and then cried with a 
loud voice, "Lazarus, come forth." 

We next went to the site of the house of Mary and Martha. Some 
ruins of walls are all that remain here. A few steps away a ruined 
tower is pointed out as the site of the house of Simon the leper. The 
present village is Mohammedan, and contains about forty wretched 
hovels. There is nothing attractive, aside from its pleasant surround- 
ings and historic associations. There are numerous fig-, almond-, 
and olive-trees. 

We had expected to reach Jerusalem at noon, but it was one 
o'clock when we drew near. As it was Friday, the beginning of the 
Nebi-Musa festival, a large Mohammedan procession was about to 
proceed from the St. Stephen's Gate, and we found the carriage road 
lined on both sides, wherever possible, by an immense crowd of men, 
women, and children. Our driver succeeded in getting nearly through 

when the carriage became blocked in the throng and 
Jerusalem ^^^ delayed for about two hours. Brother Ouzoun- 

ian and I worked our way through on foot and reached 
the hotel. The other members of our party who were obliged, in- 
voluntarily, to witness the parade stated that it was a wild and 
frightful affair. One chief figure was a man nearly naked who had 
worked himself up into a perfect frenzy, and was screaming, and 
brandishing a sword in a most barbarous and threatening manner. 

After lunch in the hotel, we again entered the Jaffa Gate and 
passed across the city to the southwest corner of the Temple Area, 

to visit the Jews' Wailing-Place. The portion of the 
j-,^ celebrated wall which bears this name is 156 feet long 

and 59 feet high. The nine lowest courses of stone 
in the wall consist of huge blocks, venerable with age, and interesting 
for the fact that they are veritable remains of the old Jewish temple. 
One of these blocks is 16 1-2 feet long and 13 feet wide. Every Fri- 
day evening the Jews repair to this place to bewail the downfall of 
Jerusalem, and to pray for its restoration. This scene is known to 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



175 




176 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

have been repeated weekly since the middle ages. As it was Friday 
evening, we were there at the most favorable time to witness the event. 
Here were men standing in groups reading from their Hebrew prayer- 
books or Scriptures, or else engaged in the most earnest and devout 
conversation with each other. Some were leaning their faces against 
the weather-beaten wall, as though the cold stones could transfer to 
them the holiness of past ages. Here also were many women — some 
young, some middle-aged, and some tottering in the last days of life 
— kissing the wall, pressing their cheeks against it, and bathing it 
with tears, thus fulfilling Psa. 102:14: "Thy servants take pleas- 
ure in her stones, and favor the dust thereof." I have long known 
of this weekly custom, but supposed that constant repetition would 
deprive it of genuine feeling, leaving only a shallow form; but as 
I stood watching the scene, I was convinced that this poor, deluded 
people who have rejected the Christ of God are really heart-broken 
when they approach this ancient relic of departed greatness. At 
this time they chant the following litany: 

Leader. For the palace that lies desolate 

Eesponse. We sit in solitude and mourn. 

Leader. For the temple that is destroyed 

Eesponse. We sit, etc. 

Leader. For the walls that are overthrown 

Response. We sit, etc. 

Leader. For our majesty that is departed 

Eesponse. We sit, etc. 

Leader. For our great men who lie dead 

Eesponse. We sit, etc. 

Leader. For the precious stones that are burnt 

Eesponse. We sit, etc. 

Leader. For the priests who have stumbled 

Eesponse. We sit, etc. 

Leader. For our kings who have despised Him 

Eesponse. We sit, etc. 

Another alternate anthem is as follows : 

Leader. We pray thee, have mercy upon Zion! 

Eesponse. Gather the children of Jerusalem. 

Leader. Haste, haste, Eedeemer of Zion! 

Eesponse. Speak to the heart of Jerusalem. 

Leader. May beauty and majesty surround Zion! 

Eesponse. Oh, turn thyself mercifully to Jerusalem! 

Leader. May the King soon return to Zion! 

Eesponse. Comfort those who mourn over Jerusalem. 

Leader. May peace and joy abide with Zion! 

Eesponse. And the Branch (of Jesse) spring up at Jerusalem. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 177 

Poor deluded souls ! Still they are waiting for the Branch of Jesse 
to spring up at Jerusalem and restore the Jewish State. Why do 
they not consult their own Scriptures and learn that when this 
"Branch," or "root of Jesse," should come, the Gentiles would gather 
themselves around his standard (Isa. 11:10; 60:3-5); while his own 
people Avould lead him "as a sheep to the slaughter" (Isaiah 53) — 
why, I ask, do they not consider these things, and witness their ful- 
filment in Jesus of Nazareth whom their fathers condemned to cruci- 
fixion? The only answer that comes back to me is that melancholy 
reflection of the apostle on the hardened state of the Israelitish na- 
tion — a "remnant" were saved, "but the rest were blinded" (Rom. 
11:5, 7). "Blindness in part is happened to Israel, until the fulness 
of the Gentiles be come in" (v. 25). To us, one of the strongest 
proofs of the divine mission of Christ is the exact fulfilment of his 
prediction of the overthrow of Jerusalem and the subsequent deso- 
lation and dispersal of the Jewish nation. 

After visiting the bazaars and making some purchases, we returned 
to our hotel for the night. 

TRIP TO BETHLEHEM AND HEBRON 

Early in the morning of April 19, we left Jerusalem by carriage 
for a side trip to Bethlehem and Hebron. Passing the Jaffa Gate, we 
descended into the Valley of Gihon, and then ascended the hill to the 
southwest j from which position we obtained a good view of the south- ^ 
ern part of the city. Here was pointed out the tree on which Judas 
is said to have hanged himself. All of its branches extend horizontally 
toward the east. It is possible that this tree may be five hundred 
years old ! About two and one-half miles from Jerusalem we came to 
an old cistern, the traditional well of the Magi, where they are said 
to have again seen the guiding star. It is also said that Mary rested 
here on her way to Bethlehem. Farther along we came to a well from 
which the holy family is said to have drunk. 

In about one-half hour we came to the Tomb of Rachel, which 
is reyered by Jews, Moslems, and Christians i^ the touching scene of 

Rachel's death. The earliest Scriptural reference is 
Rachel ^^^^ ' "And Rachel died, and was buried in the way 

to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pil- 
lar upon her grave: that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day" 
(Gen. 35:19, 20). The present monument, surmounted by a dome, 
is not ancient, but has been restored from time to time. 



178 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




fit 

B 

o 
H 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



179 




f80 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

We were now nearing Bethlehem, the early home of David, and 
the birthplace of Jesus Christ. Joab, Asahel, and Abishai also re- 
sided here. On these neighboring hills the faithful 
Bethlehem David watched his father's sheep and performed the 

remarkable feats of slaying a lion and a bear, and 
from these pasture scenes was called by the prophet Samuel to be anoint- 
ed king over Israel. To this place the sorrow-stricken Naomi re- 
turned from the country of Moab, and in these surrounding fields 
Ruth gleaned after the reapers in the harvest-field of Boaz, who was 
a resident of Bethlehem. On these hilltops the shepherds, weary with 
watching their sheep during the long hours of the night, were startled 
by a supernatural light and the appearance of the heavenly messenger, 
who announced the birth of the Christ-child; yes, these very hills and 
valleys echoed that night with the strains of celestial harmony, "Glory 
to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men" — ■ 
strains which, taken up by multitudes of redeemed men and women, 
have been wafted from mountain to mountain and from plain to plain 
and rolled in one majestic chorus around the world. It is this event 
which has placed the name of Bethlehem upon all our lips, and which 
causes our minds to turn to this humble village whenever Christmas- 
tide comes round. The inspiration of the past seemed suddenly to 
seize our souls, and we burst forth in joyous song: 

''O little town of Bethlehem, 
How still we see thee lie! 
Above thy deep and dreamless sleep 
The silent stars go by: 
i Yet in thy dark streets shineth - 

i The everlasting Light; 

I The hopes and fears of all the years 

Are met in thee tonight. 

^'For Christ is born of Mary; 

And gathered all above, 
While mortals sleep, the angels keep 

Their watch of wondering love. 
O morning sta,rs, together 

Proclaim the holy birth! 
And praises sing to God the King, 

And peace to men on earth." 

Near the entrance to the village we followed a footpath to the left, 
leading to David's well. I recalled the time when David was at war 
with the Philistines, and his home town, Bethlehem, was in the hands 
of the enemy. He longingly said, "Oh, that one would give me drink 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



181 




182 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

of the water of the well of Bethlehem, which is by the gate!" (2 
Sam. 23: 15), whereupon three of his devoted followers undertook 
David's Well ^^^ perilous task, and succeeded in bringing him the 
desired water. The grateful king, realizing its cost, 
regarded it as the blood of the three men who had jeopardized their 
lives for his sake; therefore he would not drink it, but "poured it out 
unto the Lord." At the present time the water is not good. 

We then proceeded to the Church of the Nativity, which is erected 
over the traditional site of the birthplace of Christ. This church is 
still in some respects a fine building. The nave is the 
Nativitv oldest piece of Christian architecture in the world, the 

remaining part of a grand church erected here by Em- 
press Helena in 327 A. D. The plain structure of the interior testifies 
to its age. It has four rows of marble columns containing stones 
which are said to have once formed a part of the temple at Jerusalem. 
The roof is formed of rough cedar from Lebanon. A Greek inscription 
contains an extract from a decree of the Council of Constantinople 
(381 A. D.) concerning the Godhead of the Holy Ghost. There are 
ancient scenes, representing Christ's entry into Jerusalem, his ascen- 
sion, etc. On Christmas Day, 1101, Baldwin was crowned king here. 

We descended two flights of stairs into the Chapel of the Nativity. 
As an Armenian service was then in progress there, our guide in- 
formed us that we could not enter: but Brother Ouzounian pressed 
forward, saying, "I am an Armenian" ; and when he met the bishop 
at the entrance, he soon obtained permission for us. The service con- 
tinued without interruption, the officiating priests paying no atten- 
tion to us. Under the altar a silver star is set in the pavement, and 
an inscription states that here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin 
Mary. Above are fifteen silver lamps which are kept burning per- 
petually. This spot was richly decorated as early as the time of 
Constantine. 

A few feet distant we descended three steps into the Chapel of 
the Manger. The manger in which Christ is said to have lain is ofi 
marble, with a white bottom and brown front. We were sure that this 
claim was nothing but wretched deceit; for a beautiful marble cradle 
would not have been lying in a stable simply to accommodate the holy 
child. Furthermore, the original cradle is shown in a church in 
Rome (?). But the tradition that the birth of Christ took place in 
a cave is ancient, for it is so stated by Justin M-^rtyr, who wrote in 
the second century. In the southwest corner of the church we de- 
scended into the Chapel of the Innocents. According to tradition, a 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



183 



number of children who had been brought to this place for safety 
were slain here by Herod. In an adjoining chapel we were shown 
the place where Joseph had his dream in which the angel commanded 
him to flee into Egypt, 

We then entered another passage where we were shown the tomb 
of St. Jerome, the great Latin church Father, who was born in Dal- 
matia about 339 and died at Bethlehem in 420. His Latin version of 
the Old Testament is the foundation of the Vulgate, the standard of 




Interior of Churcli of the Nativity — ^Bethlehexa 



the Latin church until this day. Opposite his tomb the grave of 
his pupil Paula is shown, also the tomb of her daughter. A little 
farther to the north we entered the Chapel of St. Jerome, a large 
apartment hewn out of the rock and now lined with masonry. Here 
the great Father is said to have lived and written his chief works. A 
large painting shows Jerome with the Bible in his hand. 

Leaving Bethlehem, we descended a steep and rocky road leading 
down to the main road from Jerusalem to Hebron, from which we had 
diverged at Rachel's Tomb in order to visit Bethlehem. 

The next place of interest was the Pools of Solomon, six miles 
from Jerusalem, at the head of the Wady Urtas valley. These remark- 
able architectural remains date from the time of the old Jewish mon- 



184 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

archy. They are three in number, covering about seven acres of 
ground, and were constructed one above the other by building dams 
across the valley. They were connected by conduits, 
Solomon ^^'^ served as a reservoir for the old aqueduct of 

Jerusalem. The gardens of Solomon are supposed to 
have been located in the Wady Urtas valley, hence the reference to 
pools for irrigation purposes mentioned in Eccl. 2:6, is usually iden- 
tified with these pools — "I made me pools of water, to water there- 
with the wood that bringeth forth trees." These pools are supplied 
by four natural springs, the largest of which is the Sealed Fountain. 
According to tradition, Solomon shut up this spring and sealed it in 
order to preserve its fresh water for his own drinking purposes. 
Cant. 4:12 is supposed to refer to this — "A garden enclosed is my 
sister, my spouse; a spring shut up, a fountain sealed." 

But these springs did not suffice for the water supply of ancient 
Jerusalem, so another conduit, emptying into the middle one of these 
three pools, conveyed water from the valley of 'the Arrub, about six 
miles distant. The remarkable windings of this conduit equals about 
forty-seven miles. From the pools the water is conveyed to Jerusa- 
lem by two different conduits. One of these, partly cut in the rock 
and partly constructed of masonry, led along the slope of the Wady 
Urtas and descended into the valley west of Bethlehem near Rachel's 
Tomb, where it ascends the northern side of the valley again through 
an inverted stone siphon, constructed of perforated stone blocks firmly 
united by cement. This siphon is not only remarkable in its construc- 
tion, but it also shows a knowledge of hydrostatics which even the 
Romans did not possess when they built their high arched structures 
for conducting water over the valleys near Rome. This conduit con- 
nected with the upper Gihon pool near Jerusalem, entered the city at 
the Jaffa Gate, and supplied the Citadel, Pool of Hezekiah, and other 
points along the Tyropoeon Valley, until it joined the Pool of Siloam. 

The other conduit conveyed water to the city from the pools and 
springs in great windings about twenty miles long. As these pools 
and fountains have an altitude about two hundred feet above the tem- 
ple hill, the water was easily conveyed to the highest point in Jeru- 
salem. The magnitude of this water-system naturally suggests the 
work of some energetic king, such as Solomon. Pilate afterwards re- 
paired this conduit with money taken from the temple treasury. 

We visited the Sealed Fountain. The well-house contains two 
dark chambers, and in the inner one the water breaks forth from the 
wall. We also visited the upper and central pools, but for the lack 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



185 




CQ 



186 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



of time did not descend to the lower one, which is said to be the finest 
of the three. They are arranged at intervals of about one hundred 
fifty feet. 

From the Pools of Solomon we ascended the hill to the southwest, 
from whence we obtained a good view of Bethlehem and the Mount of 
Olives. From this point our route was rather uninteresting for some 
time. The dilapidated towns and ruined terraces gave evidence that 
this section was. formerly rich and that it had supported a large pop- 



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General View of Hebron 

ulation; but at present it is almost abandoned. The hills are covered 
with prickly and stunted trees. We passed Beth-Zachariah, where 
Judas Maccabeus was defeated by Antiochus Eupator. We also saw 
many rock-tombs and small caverns in a hillside, and a little farther 
along we came to a spring in which Philip is said to have baptized the 
eunuch (Acts 8:36-39). This is so marked on the mosaic map of 
Madeba, already referred to. 

HEBRON 
As we approached Hebron, however, we found ourselves entering 
a most fertile district. Here were beautiful vineyards and fruit or- 
chards. We remembered that this was the Eschol of the Bible, where 
the spies obtained the grapes which they carried on a pole back to 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 187 

the camp of the Israelitles (Num. 13:22-24). The hilltops, although 
stony, contained rich pastures in which were many sheep, goats, and 
cattle. To the left of the road we saw the ruins of a building, of 
which only the south and west walls are preserved. Three courses of 
stone are visible, and they consist of blocks of great size. Jewish 
tradition places here the grove of Mamre of which we read in Genesis. 
However, the so-called "oak of Mamre" is shown in the garden of the 
Russian Hospice about one-half hour's drive from Hebron. The trunk 
of the oak is thirty-two feet in circumference at the bottom, but it is 
slowly dying. As our time was limited, we did not get to make a side 
trip from Hebron to this place. 

Hebron is one of the oldest of existing towns. In Num. 13:22 
we read, "Now Hebron was built seven years before Zoan in Egypt." 
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob spent much of their life- 
tlie Patriarchs time here. It was from Hebron that Jacob sent 
Joseph to seek his brethren, when he was betrayed by 
them and sold as a slave into Egypt (Gen. 37:14-28); and it was 
also from this place that the patriarchal family departed for Egypt, 
by way of Beersheba (Gen. 46:1). At the time of the conquest by 
the Israelites, Caleb was given Hebron as a reward for his faithful- 
ness, because (with Joshua) he brought back a good minority report 
of the country, contrary to the adverse decision of the ten spies (Josh. 
10:36, 37 with 14:6-13). Later, however, the city was assigned to 
the priests and was chosen as one of the three cities of refuge on the 
west side of the Jordan (Josh. 20:7; 21:11-13); while the inheri- 
tance of Caleb was removed to the rich suburbs and surrounding vil- 
lages (Josh. 21:12). 

When David became king of Judah, he established his capital at 
Hebron, where he reigned seven and one-half years (2 Sam. 2:1-4, 
11). Here, after the death of Saul's son, the elders of the northern! 
tribes journeyed to see David and requested him to rule over the entire 
nation, and then anointed him king over all Israel (2 Sam. 5:1-3). 
But as Hebron is situated near the southern border of Palestine, it 
was not sufficiently central for .the capital of the nation ; hence David 
marched to Jerusalem, captured from the Jebusites the stronghold 
of Zion, and established his capital there (vs. 7, 9). 

Hebron has since passed through various vicissitudes. In 1187 it 
was captured by Saladin, and has to this day remained under the Mos- 
lems, who are notorious for their fanaticism. The present number 
of inhabitants is about twenty-two thousand, two thousand of whom 
are Jews ; none are Christians. The place is not often visited by tour- 



188 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

ists ; and it may be that one does run a certain risk in going among 
these fanatical Moslems, said to be the most turbulent in all Pales- 
tine. But we were specially interested in Hebron because of its asso- 
ciation with Abraham and the other patriarchs. It was here that 
Abraham, on the death of Sarah, purchased from Ephron the Hittite, 
the double-cavern of Machpelah ias a family burid,l-place, in which 
he was afterwards entombed. Isaac and Jacob, and their wives, Re- 
bekah and Leah, were also buried here (Gen. 49:29-31). Rachel, it 
will be remembered, died by the wayside and was buried near Beth- 
lehem. 

The cave of Machpelah is now covered by a Mohammedan mosque. 
This is esteemed by the Moslems as one of the holiest places, and 
Christians are excluded from it. I understand that a 
Machoelah ^^^ people of high rank have gained admittance, prob- 

ably by means of the all-powerful bakshish (money). 
It is surrounded by a high enclosing wall, which is strengthened on 
the outside by square buttresses, 16 on each side, and 8 at each end. 
At the four corners stood minarets, but only two now remain. Up 
to the height of 39 feet this wall consists of large drafted stones dat- 
ing back to the Herodian period. On the south side a flight of steps 
leads up to the interior court of the mosque, which is about 14 feet 
above the street level. Unbelievers are permitted to advance as far 
as the seventh step. Brother Pambukdjian and Gerald ran ahead of 
our guide and reached the thirteenth step before they could be stopped. 
Knowing that these Moslems were fiercely fanatical and that it would 
be a very small thing for them to murder a person who had tres- 
passed in their holy place, the rest of us were very thankful that nd 
one was in sight at this time except our guide and some small chil- 
dren. Beside the fifth step is a large stone with a hole in it, and this 
hole is said to extend down to the tomb. 

Within the mosque itself, we are told, cenotaphs of Abraham and 
Sarah, Isaac and Rebekah, Jacob and Leah, are shown; while the 
tombs themselves are in the CE^ve below. At an earlier period, when 
the Holy Land was in the power of the Christians, access to this place 
was not denied. Benjamin of Tudela says that the sarcophagi above 
ground were shown to most pilgrims as the real ones, but that if 
some one offered an additional fee "an iron door is opened, which dates 
from the time of our forefathers who rest in peace, and with a burn- 
ing tapir in his hands the visitor descends into the first cave, which 
\s empty, traverses a second in the same state, and at last reaches a 
third, which contains six sepulchers, those of Abraham, Isaac, and 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 189 

Jacob, and those of Sarah, Rebekah, and Leah, one opposite the other. 
All these sepulchers bear inscriptions, the letters being engraved; thus 
upon that of Abraham: 'This is the sepulcher of our father Abrja- 
ham, upon whom be peace' ; even so upoii that of Isaac and all t|io 
other sepulchers" (Itinerary 1;77)* 

The identity of this place appears to be beyond dispute, for the 
ablest and most critical scholars have passed it by without questipn. 
No wonder that the poor Jews, denied access to the tombs of th^ir 
fathers, advance every Friday as far as the seventh step, before men- 
tioned, and lament here as they do at the wailing place jin 
Jerusalem. I 

Our guide took us around to a high elevation on the northeast iof 
the Haram, as this sacred area . is called, and from this position we 
obtained a good view of the court and buildings within the enclosing^ 
walls. It is unnecessar}'^ to state that we longed for the privilege of 
descending into the cave and standing by the real sepulcher 
of the patriarchs, but such was impossible, therefore we turned 
away. 

It was at the gate of Hebron that Abner was assassinated by 
Joab, and he was buried here (2 Sam. 3:27, 32). A Moslem tomb 
is pointed out as his tomb; but as there is no likeli- 
es-Sultan hood of its being genuine, we did not visit it. We next 

went to the Birket es-Sultan. This pool, constructed 
of hewn stones, is very ancient and is square in form, being 132 feet 
on each side. This is undoubtedly "the pool in Hebron" over which 
David hung the murderers of Ishbosheth (2 Sam. 4:12). Some as- 
sert that the ancient Hebron lay a little to the west on a hill now 
covered with olive-trees. At the top of this hill are ruins of old 
walls, within which is the tomb of Jess^, David's father. This we 
visited. While climbing this hill, we were trailed by a number of sus- 
picious-looking men, who endeavored to lead us away from the course 
which we had previously decided to take; but we succeeded in turn- 
ing them aside (by the aid of a little money), and returned again into 
the town. We really felt a sense' of relief when we were again in our 
carriage on the way back to Jerusalem. It was after eight o'clock at 
night when we reached our hotel.' ^ 



190 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 







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THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



191 



VISITING THE ENVIRONS OF JERUSALEM 

Next morning, April 20, we started out to visit a few places 
which had. not been included in our former excursions. Passing around 
to the east side of the city, we crossed the valley of 
the Kidron and came to the Garden of Gethsemane. It 
is a beautiful place, quiet and secluded, and surrounded 
by a wall. Just outside the present entrance-door is a rock marking 
the spot, so it is said, where the three disciples slept while Jesus 



Garden of 
Gethsemane 




In the Garden of Gethsemane 



prayed. We entered by a very low door on the east side. For many 
cnturies this place has been identified as the scene of our Lord's agony 
and apprehension, and its location agrees perfectly with the Bible 
narrative. It is across the Brook Kidron, at the base of the Mount 
of Olives. The garden belongs to the Franciscans, and they have 
taken great pains to keep it well preserved. Most interesting of all 
the things contained in it are eight olive-trees, venerable with age, 
said to date from the time of Christ. Some of these are of very large 
size and their trunks are split with age, and without doubt they are 
slowly dying. Olive-trees are known to attain a very great age. I 
had seen a great many old ones in the East, but none that present such 



192 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

an appearance of extreme old age as these. We have every reason to 
believe that this was the scene of Christ's earnest prayer on the night 
of his betrayal; that here, conscious of his coming doom, his hu- 
manity shrank from the trying ordeal as he cried, "Father, if it be 
possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless not as I will, but as 
thou wilt" ; while the extreme agony of his soul manifested itself in 
the great drops of perspiration which fell from his lovely face; that- 
here he struggled, and wept, and groaned for sinful man, preparatory 
to the mock trial, cruel scourging, and rejection of the reviling mul- 
titude who rushed him onward to Calvary, where amid Nature's con- 
vulsions he expired — "stricken, smitten of God, and afflicted." While 
contemplating such scenes as these, our hearts swelling with gratitude 
for deliverance purchased at such a price, the hot tears found their 
way to our cheeks. 

' ' Beyond where Kidron 's waters flow, 
So brightly and so free, 
Behold the loving Savior go 
To sad Gethsemane. " 

Leaving the garden, we started southward down the Valley of Je- 
hoshaphat and soon reached the Tomb of Absalom. The lower part 

of this peculiar monument consists of a cube about 
Absalom ^^ ^^^^ square and 21 feet high, cut out of the solid 

rock so as to leave an area or niche around it. Above 
the architrave rises a square superstructure of large stone, and abovfe 
this is a cylindrical structure terminating in a cone, which widens a 
little at the top like an opening flower. The entire monument is 48 
feet in height. In 2 Sam. 18: 18 we read, "Now Absalom in his life- 
time had taken and reared up for himself a pillar, which is in the king's 
dale : for he said, I have no son to keep my name in remembrance : and 
he called the pillar after his own name: and it is called unto this da}', 
Absalom's place." The " king's dale" has usually been identified with 
the Valley of Jehoshaphat, hence this tomb is popularly known as 
Absalom's. In memory of Absalom's disobedience, the Jews used to 
pelt this monument with stones whenever they passed it. The Ionic 
half-columns and corner pilasters, and the Doric architrave suggests 
the Greco-Roman period; therefore scholars now reject the idea of 
its really being the tomb of Absalom. But we have the plain testi- 
mony of such a monument's being erected by Absalom. Is it not pos- 
sible that in a later age the old and rude structure may have been 
remodeled in harmony with the prevailing taste, thus giving it a more 
dignified appear&.nce .f* 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 193 

A little farther south we came to the Grotto of St. James, which 
we entered. This is a rock-tomb in which, according to tradition, St. 
James lay concealed without food from the time of 
St James ^^^ apprehension of Jesus until after his resurrec- 

tion. A later tradition makes this his tomb. There 
are a number of chambers adjacent, containing numerous shaft-tombs. 
Immediately to the south of the entrance to this grotto is the Pyra- 
mid of Zacharias, which the Christians say was erected in honor of the 
Zacharias mentioned by St. Matthew (Matt. 23:35). The monument 
is about 17 feet square and 30 feet high, and is entirely hewn in the 
rock. The cube-like lower part is surmounted by a pyramid. The 
Ionic half-columns with which the sides are adorned seem to point also 
to the Greco-Roman period. 

While speaking of the tombs of saints, I might pause in this con- 
nection and refer to a form of apostasy everywhere 
Reverence for i i • ii -o a. -i • a 

Tombs and prevalent m the Hiast — a sacrilegious reverence tor 

Holy Places dead men's tombs and bones. This has been so well 

described by W. M. Thomson in "The Land and the 
Book" that I will just quote his own language: 

"This is the most prevalent superstition in the great empire of 
China; and in Western Asia, Jews, Moslems, Metawelies, Druses, Nes- 
airiyeh, Ismailiyeh, Kurds, Yezedy, Gipsies, and all sects of Chris- 
tians, are addicted to it. Every village has its saints' tombs — every 
hilltop is crowned with the white dome of some neby or prophet. Thither 
all resort to garnish the sepulchers, burn incense and consecrate 
candles, fulfil vows, make offerings, and pray. So fanatical are they 
in their zeal, that they would tear any man to pieces who should put 
dishonor upon these sacred shrines. Enter that at Hebron, for ex- 
ample, and they would instantly sacrifice you to their fury. Now, 
it was for rebuking this and other kinds of idolatry that 'the fathers 
killed the prophets' ; and those who built their tombs would, in like 
manner, kill any one who condemned their idolatrous reverence for 
these very sepulchers. Thus the Pharisees, by the act of building 
these tombs of the prophets, and honoring them as they did, showed 
plainly that they were actuated by the same spirit that led their fa- 
thers to kill them ; and, to make this matter self-evident, they very 
soon proceeded to crucify the Lord of the prophets because of his 
faithful rebukes. Nor has this spirit changed in the least during the 
subsequent eighteen hundred years. Now, here in Jerusalem, should 
the Savior reappear and condemn with the same severity our modern 
Pharisees, tJiei^ would kill him upon his own reputed tomb. I say 



194 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

this not with a faltering perhaps, but with a painful certainty. Alas ! 
how many thousands of God's people have been slaughtered because 
of their earnest and steadfast protest against pilgrimages, idolatrous 
worship of saints, tombs, bones, images, and pictures ! And when- 
ever I see people particularly zealous in building, repairing, or serv- 
ing these shrines, I know them to be the ones who allow the deeds of 
those who killed the prophets, and who would do the same under like 
circumstances. If you doubt, and are willing to become a martyr, 
make the experiment tomorrow in this very city. You may blaspheme 
the Godhead, through all the divine persons, offices, and attributes, in 
safety; but insult these dead men's shrines, and woe be to you." 

Nor is this description overdrawn. Everywhere in Palestine and 
Syria we saw this same fanatical reverence for tombs and holy places, 
and evidence sufficient to convince us that any viola- 
o ^™^is In ^^^^ °^ their sanctity would meet with swift retribu- 

Holy Places tion. But this is not all. The Christian sects fre- 

quently have the most bitter quarrels among them- 
selves over their respective rights to these holy shrines. In the Church 
of the Holy Sepulcher, in Jerusalem, it is necessary to have Moslem 
guards to preserve order and prevent the Christians {?) from fight- 
ing and killing each other. In spite of all these precautions violent 
and shameful quarrels have nevertheless occurred. Once a guard in 
the Church of the Nativity, at Bethlehem, was observed occupying 
the same place at all times ; and when asked why he always stood 
in this position, he pointed to the wall, and said, "I am guarding that 
nail. The Armenians placed it there, and the Greeks have vowed to 
pull it out, while the Armenians have vowed that they shall not." 
Oh what a shame! But enough of this. 

We now descended to the bottom of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. 
On the west, high above us, rose the east wall of the Haram esh-Sherif 

or place of the temple. But excavations have revealed 
Jehoshaphat ^^^* ^^^ valley outside of the wall has been greatly 

filled up with rubbish, so that the lower part was once 
a little farther west and much lower than it is at the present time. 
Thus at the north end (the northeast comer of the Temple Area) 
the wall reaches a depth of 118 feet below the present level of thd 
ground; while at the south end the towering wall which is now 77 1-2 
feet high above ground is in reality one-half buried. In ancient days 
the wall of the Royal Cloister surmounted this, so that in the time 
of Christ this corner of the wall was over 200 feet in height. It is 
supposed that the pinnacle of the temple, mentioned in connection 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 195 

with Christ's temptation, stood on this corner of the wall. The Kidron 
Valley being then much deeper than it is at present, the distance from 
its bed to the top of the wall at this point must have been fully three 
hundred feet. Thus excavations have shown that the account of Jose- 
phus concerning the great height of this corner of the wall was not as 
greatly exaggerated as it was long supposed to be. 

A little farther south we came to the Fountain of the Virgin, 
which derives its name from an old legend that states that the Vir- 
gin once washed the swaddling clothes of her Son here. It was here 
that Solomon was anointed king (1 Ki. 1:38). It has thirty steps 
down to the water, which lies in a bason 11 1-2 feet long and 5 feet 
wide. Many women were coming here to fill their large jars with 
water. These they carried away on their heads. At a very early 
period efforts were made to convey this water into the city. The 
earliest was by a channel cut in the rock, and which conveyed the 
Water to the Pool of Shiloah (Siloam), which lay a little farther down 
the valley and was enclosed by the ancient city wall. Perhaps this 
was referred to by the prophet Isaiah, who speaks of "the waters of 
Shiloah that go softly" (Isa. 8:6). 

But in time of war this channel would not be allowed to convey 
water into the city, as the spring would be appropriated by the enemy ; 
therefore one of the early kings constructed a subterranean passage 
which would convey this water into the city, and thus deprive the 
enemy of its benefits. And this recalls one remarkable feature of an- 
cient Jerusalem — its water supply was always abundant, while be- 
sieging enemies suffered terribly for lack of water. The construction 
of this underground channel was doubtless the work of King Heze- 
kiah, for we read that "he made a pool, and a conduit, and brought 
water into the city" (2 Ki. 20:20). The channel is of very rude 
construction and is not straight, but has several windings; and a 
number of places in the sides indicate that the workmen frequently 
lost their way. The distance of the channel is over 1,700 feet. It is 
possible to pass through this channel; but as the spring is inter- 
mittent, it is dangerous to do so, for water frequently fills it quite 
unexpectedly. Another object of special interest is connected with 
this subterranean channel. In 1880 the oldest Hebrew inscription 
known was found in this channel near the south end. It gives in de- 
tail an account of the construction of the channel, and states that the 
workmen began working at both ends. After receiving this informa- 
tion the channel was again examined, and the place was found near 
the middle where the picks of the diggers met. This ancient inscrip- 



196 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

tion on a block of stone I afterwards saw in the Imperial Museum in 
Constantinople. 

We continued our course down the valley until we came to Job's 
well, which is located at the place where the Valley of Hinnom joins 
the Valley of Jehoshaphat. The well is 125 feet deep. We had a 
drink from its water, which is very good. 

We then turned westward into the Valley of Hinnom, the Hebrew 
name of which is Ge Ben Hinnom. In this place lay Tophet, where 
the children of Israel in their apostasy reverted to the 
Hinnmn most shocking rites of idolatry, as we read in Jer. 

7: 31, "And they have built the high places of Tophet, 
which is in the valley of the son of Hinnom, to burn their sons and 
their daughters in the fire." When King Josiah overthrew this idol- 
atry, he defiled the valley by casting into it the bones of the dead, the 
greatest of all pollutions among the Hebrews. This he did in order 
to make the valley itself unclean and detestable, and thus prevent the 
recurrence of such fearful idolatry (2 Ki. 23:10). From this time 
it was used for a dumping-ground into which every kind of refuse 
was cast, the combustible portion being consumed by fire. It thus be- 
came a sort of type of hell, to which the word Gehenna (contraction 
of the Hebrew Ge-Hinnom) is applied in the New Testament. 

It was now time for us to return to our hotel for lunch. Being 
midday, the sun beat down upon us, and it was extremely hot in the 
bottom of that valley, which is 350 feet below the Temple Area. 
Therefore we did not feel like following the Valley of Hinnom around 
to the west side of the city; instead, we turned to the north and as- 
cended the hill directly to the south wall of the city. We will not soon 
forget that climb in the hot sun, with the disagreeable odor from 
the valley greeting us at every step — for Hinnom is still the place 
where refuse-matter is cast. When we reached the top, nearly ex- 
hausted, and stopped to wipe the perspiration from our faces. Sister 
Hittle remarked that it was pleasant, after spending so many hours 
in the "valley of hell," to stand on the top of Mount Zion where we 
could get a good breath of God's pure air. We followed the city 
wall around to the Jaffa Gate, and then proceeded to our hotel, where 
we remained the rest of the day. 

We arranged to leave Jerusalem next morning for Nabulus. About 
six o'clock we were all ready, with luggage at the door, waiting for 
our carriage to come. After waiting for some time, Brother 
Ouzounian and I went to see what was the matter, and found 
that the man whom we had engaged to take us had gone on 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 197 

another drive; so we were left. We endeavored to find an- 
other carriage, but it was then too late to start, so we were obliged 
to remain until the next day. We had sufficient experience to con- 
vince us that the majority of carriage-owners and 
Carriage-Drivers drivers could not be trusted at all. We finally learned 
that we must do like other travelers were doing — re- 
quire the carriage-owner to deposit money with us when an agreement 
was made, in order to guarantee his presence at the stated time. 
This we found to be a very efficient method, but it seemed very strange 
to me that these carriage-men should give money to us who were 
strangers. They appeared much more willing to trust us than we 
were to trust them. One night Brother Ouzounian and I started out 
to secure a carriage for the next day. As we proceeded along a very 
dark street, we came to a carriage and soon an agreement was entered 
into. Brother Ouzounian asked them for money, and they unhesi- 
tatingly advanced an amount equal to about two-thirds of what we 
were to pay them the next day. After we left, I remarked that I 
did not think I could ever identify those men or the carriage, and I 
did not believe they could identify us. But the next morning the car- 
riage was at our hotel at the appointed time. Some things we learn 
by books, and some other things we must learn by experience. 

But we felt that perhaps after all it was the will of God for us 
to remain another day in Jerusalem. During our stay our time had 
been so completely occupied in visiting the various 
literltur?^ places of interest that we had not gotten to do as 

much spiritual work as we had hoped, so this extra 
day gave good opportunity for going among the people and distrib- 
uting many tracts in the English, French, and German languages. 
Brother Ouzounian was very useful in this work and in talking with 
the people. In the afternoon there was a number of new arrivals at 
the hotel, and in the evening one of this number came up-stairs where 
we were sitting in the public hall, and we engaged in conversation. 
He seemed very much interested in the truth, claimed to have a def- 
inite, personal experience of salvation; and we trusted that through 
this short visit he would be brought out into the full light of the 
gospel of Christ. He gave us his address, Cairo, Egypt, which is 
Brother Ouzounian's home ; so we hoped he would become useful in 
the work there. Later, however, we received word that on his return 
to Egypt from Jerusalem he was taken sick on the sea, and died after 
reaching Cairo. How uncertain is life ! 



198 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



FROM JERUSALEM TO NAZARETH 

Early the next morning, April 22, we placed our luggage in a large, 
three-seated carriage, which had been secured the day before, and 
started on our long, overland trip to Nabulus, Nazareth, and Ti- 
berius. We skirted the north city wall as far as the Damascus Gate, 
then turned to the left and took the direct road to Nabulus, which 
traverses a lofty plain in a northerly direction. 

The day was beautiful. Looking backward, we took our last view 
of the Holy City, which appeared glorious in the resplendent rays of 
the morning sun. I felt that I could now appreciate 
Thoughts better than ever before the rapturous phrase of the 

Psalmist when he exclaimed, "Beautiful for situation, 
the joy of the whole earth, is Mount Zion, on the sides of the north, 
the city of the great king." In the days of the Hebrew monarchy 
this sight of the sacred city spread out in its glory must have glad- 
dened the heart of many a toiling pilgrim who was wending his way 
upward to Jerusalem, "the place where men ought to worship." But 
our feelings were not those of abounding joy: they were mingled with 
a strain of sadness ; for to us Jerusalem is the best city in the world, 
and the worst city in the world — the place where God chose to set 
his name, where spiritual light, and revelation, and divine glory cen- 
tered; and the place also where Israel apostatized, where the prophets 
were stoned, and where our Christ was rejected and slain — yea, a dark 
cloud of infamy hangs forever over this unholy place which is still 
known, however, as the Holy City. 

As we were passing along the road, we overtook a large crowd 
of men accompanied by some soldiers in uniform. We were informed 
that this company had been drafted for military service in the Balkan 
war, and was being taken to Damascus. Some were mere boys. Be- 
ing dressed in different costumes, they presented a very strange ap- 
pearance. A number of women and children, presumably the wives 
and children and mothers of these unfortunates, were following from 
Jerusalem, some of them weeping. It seemed sad to us to see these 
Christless souls rushed forward to the battle-front simply to become 
*'flesh for cannon," as Napoleon used to say. What a terrible thing 
is war! One of these men made some angry demonstrations toward 
us, for no other reason, I suppose, than that we were Christians; for 
the Moslems regard the Balkan war as a conflict between Moslems and 
Christians. Some of our party became rather nervous and were glad 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 199 

when we had left the rough and undesirable company far behind. 

About forty minutes from the Damascus Gate we passed Shafat, 
where there are the remains of a church, and a small reservoir hewi^ 
jj-qIj in the rock. This has been identified as Nob, a city 

of Benjamin, belonging to the priests. It was there 
that the tabernacle was stationed during the reign of Saul (1 Sam. 
21:1). Here David and his young men came — tired and hungry, 
while fleeing from the wrath of Saul — and requested the priest of 
Nob to allow them to eat of the showbread, which he permitted 
(1 Samuel 21). Saul's chief herdsman, an Edomite, was present on 
this occasion; and he returned to Saul and reported the matter, which 
so angered the king that he called the priests before him, reproached 
them for aiding David in his flight, then ordered his servants to slay 
them all. But they refused to stretch forth their hands against the 
priests of the Lord. The king then ordered the Edomite to do this 
wretched work, and he slew eighty-five of those who wore the sacer- 
dotal garments, then proceeded to Nob and utterly destroyed the 
city, putting men, women, and children to the sword ( 1 Sam. 22 : 9-19 ) . 

A little farther along we saw on a hill to the right some ruins 
where "Gibeah of Benjamin" was formerly located. This is the same 
Gibeah ^® "Gibeah of Saul," for Saul was born here, and con- 

tinued to make this his residence after he became king 
(1 Sam. 10:26; 11:4). This was the scene of that abominable 
wickedness which involved in its consequences the destruction of near- 
ly all of the tribe of Benjamin (Judges 19). This was also the scene 
of Jonathan's romantic exploit against the Philistines (1 Samuel 14). 
Here also the Gibeonites in revenge hung the seven sons of Saul 
(2 Samuel 21). 

About nine and one-half miles from Jerusalem we halted at the 
village of El-Bireh, believed to be the ancient Beeroth, a town of Ben- 
Beeroth jamin (2 Sam. 4:2, 3), It contains about one thou- 

sand inhabitants, chiefly Christian. An ancient tra- 
dition represents this as the place where Joseph and Mary first dis- 
covered the absence of the child Jesus from their company, as re- 
corded in Luke 2 : 43, 44. 

Shortly after leaving this place, we saw on a hill to the right the 
village of Beitin, which is identical with the Bethel of Old Testament 
history. The oldest name of the place was Luz. Here Jacob, fleeing 
from the wrath of his brother Esau, tarried for the night and laid[ 
down to sleep, his head resting upon a stone. There he saw in vision 
a ladder extending from heaven to earth with the angels of God as- 



200 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 201 

cending and descending upon it; while Jehovah himself, speaking from 
. the skies, assured the patriarch of the divince presence, 

and repeated the covenant-promise. When Jacob awak- 
ened, he took his stone pillow, set it up for a pillar, anointed it, and called 
the name of the place Bethel, which signifies "House of God" (Gen- 
esis 28). Afterwards Jacob returned to this place and reconsecrated 
it. At this time there seems to have been no town here, but at the 
time of the conquest it is mentioned as one of the royal cities of the 
Canaanites (Josh. 12:16). The ark remained here for some time. 
Later it is mentioned as one of the cities of Samuel's circuit where 
he in rotation held his court of justice (1 Sam. 7:16). When the 
ten tribes revolted, under Jeroboam, and established the northern 
kingdom. Bethel was included in its territory, though originally as- 
signed to Benjamin. 

The crafty Jeroboam was aware that if Jerusalem remained as 
the center of worship for his subjects, they would soon return to 
their allegiance to the king of Judah; therefore he sought to break 
up this spiritual unity which God had himself ordained. In order to 
accomplish his design he told his people that it was "too much for 
them to go up to Jerusalem." So he made two golden 

Center of calves and set one here in Bethel, the extreme south- 

Idolatrous . . T 1 .1 • -Tk 

Worship ern part of his possession; and the other m Dan, on 

the northern border. In these places the Israelites 
worshiped Jehovah under the symbol of a golden calf. From the rec- 
ord it appears that Bethel became the chief seat of this detestable 
worship, Jeroboam's priests offering sacrifices and burning incense 
upon the altar which he erected (1 Ki. 12:26-33). God was highly 
displeased with this course and sent a prophet to Bethel, who cried 
out against the altar, and announced that the time would come when 
a king of Judah, Josiah by name, )vould burn upon that unholy altar 
the bones of its priests. Jeroboam stretched forth his hand to arrest 
this prophet, and immediately his hand was smitten with palsy, so 
that he could not draw it back; and at the same time the prediction 
of the prophet was attested by another visible sign ; for the altar was 
rent asunder and the ashes strewn around. Jeroboam besought the 
prophet to restore his hand, which the prophet did. 

Still this unscrupulous king, unmindful of Jehovah's manifest dis- 
pleasure, refused to abandon a policy so well calculated to serve the 
political interests of his kingdom. And it is a noticeable fact that 
no subsequent king of Israel attempted to root out this idolatrous wor- 
ship ; therefore "the sin of Jeroboam the son of Nebat, wherewith he 



202 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

sinned and made Israel to sin," became a standing phrase in describ- 
ing the iniquity of successive kings who allowed this worship to con- 
tinue. Three and one-half centuries later Josiah, king of Judah, 
overthrew this idolatrous worship in exact fulfillment of the predic- 
tion of the man of God (2 Ki. 23: 13-16). 

About thirty-five minutes from El-Bireh we entered the Wadi 
Jifna, one of the most fertile regions in Palestine, abounding with 
vineyards and orchards. We were delighted with the 
jifjia^ scene, which formed such a pleasing contrast with the 

greater part of the country yiet visited; for with the 
exception of the environs of Jaffa, the plain of Sharon, and the 
environs of Hebron, the country did not present that degree of fruit- 
fulness which we have reason to believe existed in earlier ages. In 
the bottom of the valley lies Jifna, a pleasantly situated little village 
of six hundred Christian inhabitants. It was once a place of con- 
siderable importance. In A. D. 69 it was captured by Vespasian, 
who made it the capital of one of the ten toparchies into which 
Judea was divided by the Romans. On the hill to the north- 
west lies Tibneh, the ancient Tiranath-serah, where Joshua resided, 
and was buried. His grave is still shown among other rock-tombs. 
Farther along we traversed the "Glen of the Robbers," where there 
are numerous rock-tombs and caverns, said to have been formerly oc- 
cupied by robbers. The scenery here is exceedingly 
the^ Robbers picturesque. We soon came to a broad, well-culti- 

Shiloli vated plain from which we could see in the distance 

Seilun, which is built on the site of the ancient Shiloh. 
Here the tabernacle and ark of the covenant stood from the days of 
Joshua, through the period of the Judges, down to the end of Eli's 
life. Here a festival was celebrated annually, on which occasion the 
daughters performed in dances. Here it was, on one of these occa- 
sions, that the surviving men of the desolated tribe of Benjamin laid 
in wait and kidnapped the young women of Shiloh in order to secure 
wives for themselves (Judg. 21:19-23). This was the residence of 
Eli and of the youthful Samuel. Here by the wayside sat the aged 
priest, waiting for news concerning the battle with the Philistines, 
when he was informed that Israel was smitten, his two sons slain, and 
ths ark of God taken; then he fell backwards from his seat and died 
(1 Samuel 4). After the loss of the ark, which was never returned to 
this place, Shiloh lost its importance; but at what time the destruc- 
tion which Jeremiah predicted overtook the city we do not know. In 
the time of Jerome it was in ruins. 



1 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



203 




204 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Our carriage road now ascended rapidly, and after a half-hour's 
continuous climb we reached the top of the pass, from which an ex- 
tensive view spread out before us Mount Hermon being visible 

in clear weather — while far below was the broad, green bason, El- 
Lubban. Our road now descended in long windings until we reached 
the valley where there was a nice spring of water. Here we stopped 
to eat our lunch, which we had brought from the hotel in Jerusalem. 

The first part of the afternoon drive presented no objects of spe- 
cial interest, except that in the distance before us we could see Mount 
"Jacob's Well" Gr^^'i^™ ^^d Mount Ebal. Passing around the base 
of Mount Gerizim to the northeast, we arrived at 
Jacob's Well. This well was made by the patriarch, who sojourned 
in this vicinity, where he purchased a "parcel of ground" from the 
sons of Hamor (Gen. 33:19), and where the Israelites afterwards 
buried Joseph (Josh. 24:32). Here Jesus rested on his journey 
from Judea to Galilee and conversed with the woman of Samaria who 
came to draw water, delivering to her one of the most remarkable 
discourses of his lifetime — a discourse in which the true nature of 
God, his demand for a spiritual worship, and the universality of ac- 
ceptable religious worship, are for the first time made prominent. This 
well now lies in the crypt of a Crusader's Ghapel, over which the 
Greeks have now erected a new chapel. We found here another 
monotonous religious service in progress ; but we entered, nevertheless, 
and took a drink from this ancient well. It is seven and one-half 
feet in diameter and is seventy-five feet deep, notwithstanding the 
large amount of rubbish that has been thrown into it. Near by is Jo- 
seph's tomb, where he was buried by the Israelites, who conveyed his 
bones from Egypt for this purpose. The monument was restored in 1868» 

From Jacob's well we turned westward into the fertile and well- 
cultivated valley of Nabulus, which is bounded on the north by Mount 
Ebal and on the south by Mount Gerizim. In about twenty minutes 
we reached the gate of Nabulus, the ancient Shechem. 

NABULUS (SHECHEM) 

Nabulus is the only town aside from Jerusalem that ever became 
the capital of Palestine. It is a town of hoar antiquity, for it is 

mentioned in the days of the patriarchs — Abraham,. 
Sketch Isaac, and Jacob all encamped here (Gen. 12:6, etc.). 

In the days of the conquest its central location, as 
well as other advantages, made it the chosen place for general gath- 
erings of the tribes of Israel. Immediately after the destruction of 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



205 




206 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Jericho and Ai, Joshua "built an altar unto the Lord God of Israel 
on Mount Ebal," and wrote a copy of the law of Moses which he read 
unto the children of Israel, who gathered in this valley for that pur- 
pose, half of them standing "over against Mount Gerizim, and half of 
them over against Mount Ebal" (Josh. 8:30-35). Joshua also held 
his last assembly of the people here, on which occasion they solemnly 
agreed to put away the gods of the heathen and to "serve the Lord" 
(Josh. 24:1-26). 

Here we were in the place that figured so prominently in the early 
history of Israel. These very rocks echoed back the words of Israel's 
noble leader; and had we been here at that time, we could have heard 
his very language as his voice rang out over the narrow valley. Later, 
after the death of Solomon, a national assembly was held here to con- 
sider the matter of his succession, and the policy that should be fol- 
lowed. Rehoboam, Solomon's son, had begun to reign, and the people 
of the northern tribes now offered him sovereignty upon condition 
that he would relieve them of the heavy taxes that had been imposed 
upon them by his father in his building operations. Rehoboam lis- 
tened to the counsel of some young men, and answered the people 
roughly, whereupon these ten tribes revolted from his authority, chose 
Jeroboam for -their king, and set up the independent kingdom of Is- 
rael, with Shechem for its capital. Afterward, Omri transferred the 
royal residence to the newly founded Samaria. The later history of 
Shechem is intertwined with the affairs of Samaria; but I will now 
refer to it briefly, on account of its bearing o«-tise present religious 
life of Nabulus. 

In 722 B. C. the Assyrians captured Samaria and carried away 
the inhabitants of this district, thus ending the national life of the 

northern kingdom. The ten tribes are thenceforth 
With ^Samaria "lost" to history. Later the places of the deport^ 

Jews were filled by Eastern pagan colonists (2 Ki. 
17: 24). "Thus the new Samaritans were Assyrians by birth or sub- 
jugation. . . . They were annoyed by beasts of prey, which 
had probably increased to a great extent before their entrance upon 
the land. On their explaining their miserable condition to the king 
of Assyria, he, believing that they had offended the god of the land, 
despatched one of the captive priests to teach them *how they should 
know the Lord.' " The priest came accordingly, and henceforth the 
Samaritans had a mixed religion, the worship of idols being associated 
with the worship of the one true God. The kingdom of Judah, with 
T^-^in^nlpm for its capital, still remained. Later, however, came tlr 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 207 

Babylonish captivity, when the kingdom of Judah was subverted, and 
its people were carried away to Babylon, where they remained for 
seventy years. 

After the return, when the work of rebuilding the temple in Jeru- 
salem began, the Samaritans desired to unite with them, saying, "Let 
us build with you : for we seek your God, as ye do ; 
Estrangement ^^^ ^^ ^^ sacrifice unto him since the days of Esar- 
Samaritans haddon king of Assur, which brought us up hither" 

(Ezra 4:2). But this proposed union was scorned by 
the Jews, who replied, "Ye have nothing to do with us to build a 
house unto our God; but we ourselves together will build unto the 
Lord God of Israel" (Ezra 4:3). Angered by this refusal, the Sa- 
maritans threw every obstacle in their way, and by writing a special 
letter to the king of Persia, succeeded in hindering for a time the 
work of restoration at Jerusalem. Under the leadership of Sanbal- 
lat, who was the moving spirit in the opposition (Neh. 2: 10, 19), they 
built a temple of their own on Mount Gerizim and set up a rival wor- 
ship. During the absence of Nehemiah in Persia, a son of Joiada, 
the high priest, probably Manasseh, married the daughter of Sanbal- 
lat (Neh. 13:28), and rather than forsake her as the Mosaic law re- 
quired, he (according to Josephus) went over to the Samaritans and 
became their high priest in the temple erected by his father-in-law. 

From these circumstances arose that inveterate enmity between the 
two nations which afterwards became proverbial — "the Jews have no 
dealings with the Samaritans." The very name Samaritan became a 
term of reproach among the Jews; therefore some of them said to 
Christ, "Thou art a Samaritan, and hast a devil" (John 8:48). 
Hence as a matter of policy Jesus at first commanded his apostles not 
to enter into any city of the Samaritans to preach (Matt. 10:5). 
Jesus himself, however, ventured to preach to the Samaritan woman at 
the well-side; and when he saw that it produced a favorable impres- 
sion on the inhabitants of the town, he turned aside from his journey 
and spent two days here, during which time many believed on him 
(John 4:39, 40). Their temple was destroyed by John Hyrcanus 
in B. C. 129, but they continued to regard its site as sacred. 

It was about four o'clock in the evening when we reached our 
hotel in Nabulus (Shechem), so we left our luggage there and pro- 
ceeded at once to view the place. Although it is a prosperous town 
of 27,000 inhabitants, we were not greatly interested in it. Our chief 
interest lay in the Sect of the Samaritans, who are the lineal descend- 
ants of the aforementioned people, and who to this day perpetuate on 



208 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



The Sect of the 
Samaritans 



Mount Gerizim the worship of their fathers. Three times each year — 
at the feast of unleavened bread, the feast of weeks, and the feast of 
tabernacles — they make a pilgrimage to the top of 
the sacred mountain. They celebrate all of the Mo- 
saic festivals. At the feast of the passover seven white 
lambs are sacrificed. Dean Stanley says that "probably in no other 
locality has the same worship been sustained with so little change 
or interruption for so great a series of years as in this mountain. 
In their humble synagogue at the foot of the mountain, the 




Samaritan Passover Encampment on Mount Gerizim 



Samaritans still worship — the oldest and the smallest sect in the world, 
distinguished by their noble physiognomy and stately appearance from 
all other branches of the race of Israel. In their prostrations at the 
elevation of their revered copy of the Pentateuch they throw them- 
selves on their faces in the direction, not of priest or law, or any ob- 
ject within the building, but obliquely towards the summit of Mount 
Gerizim. And up the side of the mountain and on its long ridge is to 
be traced the pathway by which they ascend to the sacred spots where 
they alone, of all the Jewish race, yearly celebrate the paschal sac- 
rifice." 

Securing a guide, we proceeded at once to the southwest part of 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



209 




CQ 



210 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

the town to visit their synagogue. Our way across the town led 

through crooked and winding streets, many of which were covered, 

forming long, dark tunnels through which we groped 
The Samaritan a • • i ii_ j £ xt, t.- i. 

Svnagoeue ^^^ way. Arriving at the door oi the synagogue, which 

is a small white-washed chamber, we were informed that 
the entire company was absent, being at this time encamped for seven 
days on the mountaintop during the annual feast of the Passover. 

I felt keenly disappointed in failing to meet any of them,- so 
turned to our guide and asked him if he could not take us at once to 

the top of the mountain where they were. He re- 
Moiint Gerizim pli^^ that the time was not sufficient, but said that he 

could on the morrow. I then stated that we must leave 
the city early in the morning, therefore he must take us now. He at 
last yielded to our requirement, and we started on our rapid climb, 
for it was absolutely necessary that we make the return before dark. 
It is supposed to take about one and one-fourth hours to make the 
ascent, as the mountain is 2,848 feet high and the path long and wind- 
ing, but we arrived at the top in about forty minutes, a little tired, it 
is true. As this was the time of their greatest festival, we considered 
it a special privilege to be here at this time. About the first thing 
we observed was a number of tents — not so many as we had expected 
to see, for this small remnant of the ancient nation has now dimin- 
ished to about 170 persons, of whom about two- thirds are men. They 
never marry outside of their sect, and when a married man dies, his 
nearest relative, other than his brother, is bound to marry the widow. 
Bigamy is permitted if the first wife be childless. They are strict 
monotheists. The only Scripture they have is the Pentateuch, of 
which they possess the oldest copy in existence. 

On entering this village of tabernacles, we were met by a small 
crowd of boys and girls, then some men, one of whom (the son of the 

high priest) conducted us to the tent of the high 
The Samaritan • . i ne j n i i. • 

Pentateuch priest, where we were oiiered some refreshments m 

accordance with the established Oriental custom. They 
then proceeded to impart to us information concerning their people, 
and then our host on this occasion secured a key, unlocked a case, 
and brought out the ancient copy of their Pentateuch. I was informed 
in advance that at the synagogue an inferior codex was usually palmed 
off on travelers, while the genuine one was kept in a costly case cov- 
ered with green Venetian cloth. I have since learned that the genu- 
ine one is not used by them except once each year, on the occasion of 
the feast of the Passover. So when he exhibited this codex, I saw 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



211 



at once that it was really the ancient one. It is written on yellow 
parchment. "The case is of silver, as large as a stove-pipe, cut 




The Samaaritau Pentateuch 



lengthwise into three sections, and with two sets of hinges at the back, 
so that it will open and show a column of text, or close and protect 



212 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

all from the light. At the top are three large knobs, the middle one 

a dummy and the two end ones rolls by which the parchment is rolled 

forward or back. The case itself is about eighteen inches high; but 

the knobs above and the legs below make the entire height about 

thirty inches. The five books of Moses, which are all the Bible that 

the Samaritans receive, are written on the hairside of skins of lambs 

offered in sacrifice. The entire roll is probably sixty or more feet in 

length." I understand that it has been many years since it has been 

junrolled, for owing to its extreme age it is very brittle and they do 

aiot wish to injure it. So I suppose no one now living knows the exact 

length of it, although Condor was told that it contains twenty-four 

skins. 

The Samaritans claim that it was written by a grandson of Aaron, 

and when I asked its age, they replied, confidently, that it is 3,576 

years old. According to our chronology this would 

es 1 e antedate Aaron himself. While no dependence can 

Manuscript \ 

be placed in these claims, the manuscript has been 

conceded by many scholars to be as old as the Christian era, 
in which case it is the oldest manuscript of the Bible in the world. 
The three oldest Greek manuscripts of the New Testament — the Al- 
exandrian, in the British Museum; the Vatican, at Rome; and the 
Sinaitic, at Petrograd — do not antedate the fourth century. Our 
oldest Hebrew manuscript of the Old Testament does not date back 
further than the tenth century; while this Samaritan manuscript of 
the Pentateuch in Hebrew may be 1,000 years older. These facts 
made it extremely interesting to us. In some particulars it deviates 
from all other texts, but it is not regarded by scholars as possessing 
supreme importance, though valuable for reference and examination 
in critical study. From this oldest codex, the Samaritans have de- 
rived all their other manuscripts of the Pentateuch. The one 
usually exhibited is doubtless very old. 

Desiring to obtain accurate information concerning the religious 
ideas of this interesting people, I purchased from them a small work 
Messianic Hone entitled, "The Messianic Hope of the Samaritans," 
written by their present leader, "Jacob, Son of Aaron, 
High Priest of the Samaritans." As the name implies, this work 
treats of a Messiah yet to come, and their hope is based particularly 
on Deut. 18 : 15^ — "The Lord thy God will raise up unto thee a 
Prophet from the midst of thee, of thy brethren, like unto me ; unto 
him shall ye hearken"; also verses 18 and 19. When asked whether 
their Messiah was expected to be in any sense divine, the high priest 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 213 

replied: "The Messiah will not be in any sense the Son of God. He 
will be a prophet like Moses and like his brethren." In regard to the 
mission of this Messiah he said: "The Messiah will be a prophet as 
I have told you . . . he is to be a King, and rule the earth from 
Shechem, the ancient city of power, and from his holy mountain, 
Gerizim. He will call all the world to acknowledge him, and they will 
do so." Concerning the continuation of the Passover, he said: "The 
Passover will continue after the Messiah comes. It is a perpetual 
feast. It has no reference whatever to the Messiah." He was asked 
concerning the Scripture in Gen. 49 : 10 : "The scepter shall not de- 
part from Judah, nor a lawgiver from between his feet until Shiloh 
come; and unto him shall the gathering of the people be." To this 
he replied: "While there is some difference of opinion about Gen. 
49: 10, which tells at what time the scepter shall depart from Judah, 
there is light to be found in the form of the name Shiloh. The Jews 
make it two words, but in the Samaritan Torah it is but one word, 
and that is the name Solomon. The characteristics which Jacob 
attribute to Shiloh belong very well to the character of Solomon. 
For he it was who set up idolatry in Jerusalem that he might please 
his heathen wives ; and further built there the temple for the pretended 
ark. . . . Then it was that the scepter departed from Judah, 
and under his son Rehoboam, though he came back to the true capital, 
Shechem, to be anointed king, the true Israel revolted, and set up the 
kingdom in Shechem where it belonged, and the scepter departed from 
Judah." 

While we were viewing these things within the tent, religious ser- 
vices, led by the high priest, were in progress on the outside; so we 
went out to witness the scene. We passed around to 

A Samaritan ^j^^ place where the sacrifices are offered, but we were 

Rehgious ^ . . . . 

Service too late in the day to witness the sacrifice itself. Here 

mats were spread out on the ground. The worshipers 
were men arrayed in long white garments, ' standing in a semi-circle ; 
while the high priest, clad in long, sacerdotal robes, stood out in front 
with his back turned towards them. They were repeating prayers, 
and at intervals would prostrate themselves on the ground. These 
prayers are recited in the ancient Samaritan tongue, though the peo- 
ple speak the colloquial language of the country ^Arabic. While 

vicA^dng this scene, I recalled, with fresh meaning, the words of the 
Samaritan woman to Christ at the well-side, "Our fathers worshiped 
in this mountain" ; and now after the lapse of nearly nineteen centuries 
we were witnessing their lineal descendants continuing the same devotions. 



214 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

But as it was nearly dark, we now made our way as rapidly as 
posi^ible down the steep, stony slopes of the mountain. Here a splen- 
did view of the city i;^ obtained, but we did not have time to halt very 
long. It is needless to say that we were very tired by the time we? 
reached the bottom, and were glad for a place of rest when we arrived 
safely at our hotel. 

We arranged for an early start next morning, for the day's drive 
to Nazareth was a very long one. We continued our course westward 
through the valley of Nabulus. On the right arose Mount Ebal, and 
near the top, on the West side, we could see a Moslein weli which at- 
tracts many pilgrims for it is said to contain the skull of John the 
Baptist. 

SAMARIA 

In about one hour we arrived at Sebastiyeh, the ancient Samaria, 

to which reference has already been made. The city stood on the 

top of an oblong hill, or mountain, which rises in the 
ITatural . ... 

Situation midst of a deep valley about five or six miles wide. 

Beyond this valley the mountains rise on every side 
like a wall surrounding the city, which is thus completely isolated. 
But the situation was indeed beautiful. These mountains are ar- 
ranged in terrace^, planted with corn, fig-trees, and olives ; while here 
and there small villages give variety to the scene. The hill of Sa- 
maria itself is cultivated, the terraced sides and summit being cov- 
ered with corn and olive-trees. This site was selected and the foun- 
dation of the city was laid by Omri, king of Israel, in the tenth cen- 
tury B. C. The account of this transaction is given in 1 Ki. 16: 24, 
as follows : "And he bought the hill Samaria of Shemer for two tal- 
ents of silver, and built on the hill, and called the name of the city 
which he built, after the name of Shemer, owner of the hill Samaria." 
His son Ahab continued the work thus begun, adorning and beautify- 
ing the city; he erected here a house of Baal with an altar, and tluis 
"provoked the Lord God of Israel to anger" (1 Ki. 16:32, 33). 

Samaria was the scene of many of the acts o^ Elii^h and Elisha. 
In this plain below the city gathered the hosts of Syria led by Ben- 

hadad and thirty-two kings with him in confederation, 
Bible Times ^^^ here they were overthrown, for God delivered 

them into the hands of Ahab (1 Kings 20). Here 
Elisha dwelt at the time when Naaman, the Syrian leper, visited him 
for the purpose of receiving a cure for his leprosy, and when the 
prophet instructed Naaman to go to the river Jordan and dip himself 
in it seven times. And here Gehazi, the covetous servant, was smit- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



215 




216 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

ten with the leprosy (2 Kings 5). To this place Elisha led the blind 
Syrian army who had surrounded him at Dothan, After they had 
entered Samaria, their eyes were opened in answer to his prayer, and 
they were surprised to find themselves in the capital city surrounded 
by their enemies. When the king of Israel asked if he should slay 
them, the gracious prophet said, "No," but commanded the king to 
set provisions before them and then send them back to their master 
(2 Ki. 6:8-23). 

But one of the most remarkable miracles wrought in Samaria took 
place ' in the time of famine and war. Benhadad besieged the city 
again} and there was a sore famine within, until even refuse com- 
manded an exhorbitant price. Some of the women, maddened by hun- 
ger, ha;d gone so far as to slay and eat their own children; and this 
so angered the king, who seemed to regard Elisha as being in some way 
responsible for their distress, that he ordered his servant to go and 
bring the head of the prophet. Elisha, however, was forewarned by 
the Lord; and the king's murderous design was thwarted. At this 
time the prophet predicted incredible plenty in the city of Samaria 
within the, next twenty-four hours. During the night the Lord trou- 
bled the camp of the Syrians, and they fled, leaving behind all of 
their provisions and stores ; and in the morning four lepers who were 
lying at the gate of the city, pressed by hunger, entered boldly into 
the Syrian camp, and were surprised beyond measure to find it empty. 
Here they feasted and plundered, until finally one said, "We do not 
well: this is a day of good tidings, and we hold our peace," They 
brought the good report into the city ; soon the siege was raised, and 
provisions were plentiful, according to the word of prophet (2 Ki. 
6:24.-33; 7). 

Here also the seventy sons of Ahab were beheaded and their heads 
sent in baskets to Jezreel, thus fulfilling the word spoken by Elijah, 
that the entire house of Ahab should be cut off for their wickedness 
(2 Ki. 10: 1-7). And here also Jehu gathered all of the followers of 
Baal, ostensibly for the purpose of holding a great feast in the house 
of Baal, but in reality for the purpose of slaying all of Baal's disci- 
ples. He stationed soldiers at the doors ; and when the idolatrous rites 
began, they fell upon the worshipers and destroyed them to the last 
man (2 Ki. 10:18-28). 

Samaria continued to be the capital of the northern kingdom until 
its overthrow by the Assyrians in 722 B. C. Afterwards John 
Hyrcanus took the city and destroyed it, but it was again rebuilt. 
Later it was presented by Augustus to Herod, and that monarch re- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 217. 

built the city with great magnificence, and gave it the name Sebaste 
(the Greek for Augustus), which name it has retained until. the present 
day. In the middle of the city- — on the summit of the hill^ — he erected 
a splendid temple to Augustus, and otherwise adorned the city with 
costly edifices. This was the city that existed in the time of the apos- 
tles when "Philip went down to the city of Samaria and preached 
Christ unto them," on which occasion great numbers turned to the 
Lord through the manifestation of his glorious power, were baptized, 
and afterwards were filled with the Holy Ghost (Acts 8: 5-25). Here 
Simon Magus had for a long time "bewitched the people" with his 
sorcery, but his career of deceit and imposition ended with the minis- 
tration of Philip. 

We passed around to the southwest side of the hill and then as- 
cended from that direction. Ascending the terraces, we came at length 
to the Roman Gate, which was flanked by two round: 
Columns towers. Through this gate extended, along the south- 

ern part of the hill, a very remarkable colonnade. 
This street of columns led from the west to the east gate, and was 
fully one mile in length and 60 feet wide. Eighty- two of the columns, 
are still standing (though all have lost their capitals) ; they are about 
16 feet in height. A greater number have fallen, and lie around broken 
in pieces. Some are monoliths, constructed of white marble and 
granite, though many are of common limestone. There is no doubt 
that these were constructed by Herod the Great as a part of his 
splendid scheme for adorning the city. But these columns are now 
entwined with vines, and stand or lie in their isolation in the midst 
of plowed fields. Other portions of sculptural remains of the ancient 
city lie scattered about on the hillsides and far down in the valley below. 
All we can find today of that splendid city which was built by Omri 
and Ahab, and beautified by Herod, is ruins, ruins. How true in 
fulfilment is the prediction of the ancient prophet : "I will make Samaria 
as a heap of the field, and as plantings of a vineyard: and I will pour 
down the stones thereof into the valley, and I will discover the foun- 
dations thereof" (Micah 1:6)! 

Turning to the left and ascending through the fields to the highest 
part of the hill, we came to the remains of the Temple of Augustus, 
which recent excavations have laid bare. A broad 
Augustus flight of steps, about eighty feet wide, leading up to 

the temple itself, is visible. (A well-preserved Roman 
altar and a colossal statue of Augustus were also discovered here.) 
We were then conducted farther east to view the site of what is ttrnied 



218 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Ahab's Ivory Palace. It is evident that a magnificent building for- 
merly stood here, for the mosaic floors and marble columns (some of 
which are still standing) bear witness to this fact. 

We next proceeded to the Church of St. John, which dates from 
the period of the Crusaders. Jerome (fifth century) makes mention 
of a tradition that John the Baptist was buried in 
Samaria, and it is stated that he was beheaded here. 
We were not interested in the construction of this old 
church, so can not give a description of it; our interest lay in the 



Church of 
St. John 




Biiins of "Ivory Palace," Samaria 

traditions connected with it. In the court we looked through holes 
into three tomb-chambers. One is said to be the tomb of the Baptist, 
the others those of the prophets Elisha and Obadiah; but the latter 
must refer to the governor of the house of Ahab (1 Ki. 18:3). 

Descending from the hill of Samaria, we reentered our carriage. 
Shortly afterwards we began to ascend the steep hills to the north, 
from whence we obtained a fine view of Samaria in the 
jjills midst of the plain behind us, and before us an exten- 

sive view to the north. As we traversed in succession 
the hills and valleys of Samaria, the scenery was inspiring. We re- 
membered, also, that it was over these hills and through these valleys 
that Joseph came seeking his brethren when they conspired against 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 219 

him and sold him to the Ishmaelites, by whom he was carried into 
Egyptian slavery. Our road led very near to Dothan where this 
treacherous act occurred, but we were unable to identify the place. 
Dothan was the scene of one of Elisha's extraordinary miracles be- 
fore mentioned (see 2 Ki. 6: 8-23). 

About noon we arrived at Jenin, which is the ancient Engannim, 
now containing about 2,000 inhabitants. We stopped in the out- 
skirts of the village and ate our lunch, which we had brought from 
the hotel at Nabulus. 

In the afternoon we entered the great Plain of Esdraelon, which 
stretches across Palestine from the Mediterranean to the Jordan. Its 
average width is from ten to twelve miles. Its soil is 
Esdraelon exceedingly fertile and is now to a great extent under 

cultivation. Its beautiful, level fields of waving grain 
reminded us of similar scenes in some parts of our own America, yet 
what a difference! On the left Mount Carmel is visible, jutting out 
into the Mediterranean, which, however, can not be seen; to the east, 
rise the mountains of Gilboa, and Mount Tabor, and Little Hermon: 
behind us, are the hills and valleys of Samaria; while just across the 
plain before us loom up the mountains of Galilee, through an opening 
in which Nazareth is visible. 

Every foot of this ground is rich in historic associations, for from 
time immemorial this has been the great battle-field of Eastern na- 
HSstoric (Ground tions. Close by, in these mountains of Gilboa on our 
right, was fought that ill-fated battle in which the 
nation of Israel fled before the victorious Philistines, leaving Saul 
and Jonathan dead (1 Sam. 31:1-7). Here also, in this southern 
border of the great plain, stood the city of Megiddo, where the men 
of Israel, led by Barak and the prophetess Deborah, dealt a crush- 
ing blow to the mighty hosts of Sisera, thus delivering Israel from 
their temporary servitude to the Canaanites. And here at Megiddo, 
Josiah received his death-wound, and Jeremiah and all of the men 
and women of song took up a lamentation for their beloved, but 
fallen, chief. Here toward the east, by the hill of Moreh, the few 
faithful followers of Gideon were assembled, while the mighty hosts of 
the Midianites were spread out in the valley like grasshoppers for 
multitude; and this was the scene of their miraculous and comolete 
overthrow (Judges 7). The apostle John beheld in apocalyptic vis- 
ion the final overthrow of all the powers of wickedness in the Plain 
of Armageddon — Megiddo (Rev. 16:16; 20:8, 9), which symbolic 
imagery is doubtless drawn from the historic facts just narrated. 



220 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Nebuchadnezzar and Benhadad, Joshua and Saladin, Seti and 
Thothmes, Vespasian and Napoleon have all encamped with their 
warrior forces on this broad Plain of Esdraelon. But we were glad 
that for the present its rich soil was not soaked with the life-blood 
of contending forces, and that its river Kishon was no longer filled 
with the bodies of the fallen (Judg. 5:20, 21), but that the gentler 
arts of peace (such as they are) had supplanted the rough and cruel 
art of war. 

After leaving Jenin, we succeeded, though with great difficulty, in 
persuading our driver to take a longer road that leads around by the 
Jezreel village of Zerin, which is located at the foot of a spur 

of the Gilboa mountains, and which occupies the site 
of the city of Jezreel. At a fountain back of this town Saul and Jon- 
othan encamped and drank of its refreshing waters before entering 

the fatal battle. Here 
also the kings of Is- 
rael had a palace and 
often resided, a 1 - 
though Samaria was 
the capital of the 
kingdom. Much of the 
history of Ahab and of 
his wicked wife Jezebel 
centers around this 
place (1 Ki. 18:45). 
Here was the vineyard 
of Naboth which Ahab 
coveted in order to 
have room to enlarge his palace-grounds. When Naboth refused to 
sell it, Jezebel laid an infamous plot for his destruction, in order 
that her husband, Ahab, might seize the property. And here Elijah ut- 
tered the terrible denunciation against Ahab, whom he met in his vine- 
yard, saying, "In the place where dogs licked the blood of Naboth shall 
dogs lick thy blood, even thine. . . . And I will take away thy posterity. 
. . . and I will make thy house like the house of Jeroboam. . . . The dogs 
shall eat Jezebel by the wall of Jezreel" ( 1 Kings 21 ) . This prediction 
was fulfilled to the letter, as we see by reading concerning Ahab in 
1 Ki. 22 : 38. And when the usurper Jehu slew the kings of Judah 
and Israel and rode triumphantly into Jezreel, the infamous Jezebel, 
who tried to disguise herself, was thrown out of a window by a wall, 
trodden under foot, and afterwards devoured by the dogs (2 Kings 9). 




Mount Ta'bor 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 221 

Continuing our way, we passed Afouleh, a station on the Haifa 
branch of the Hedjaz railway, situated in the midst of this broad 
plain. To the east one can see the village of Shunem, where Elisha 
dwelt with the Shunamite woman and her husband, who were miracu- 
lously given a son (2 Kings 4) ; also Nain is visible, the place where 
Jesus raised the widow's son to life (lAike 7:11-16); also Endor, 
where Saul went to consult the witch just before the disastrous bat- 
tle of Gilboa (1 Samuel 28). 

Arriving at the base of the Galilean;: mountains, on the top of 
which Nazareth is located, we found the road very steep and stony,, 
hence were obliged to walk; but this experience was not unpleasant 
after our long day's drive. Shortly before dark we arrived in the 
city in which our Lord spent the greater part of his earthly life. 

NAZARETH 

Nazareth is now a prosperous town of about 15,000 inhabitants. 
In the spring of the year when it is surrounded by green hedges, fig- 
trees, and olive-trees it presents a charming appearance. In the time 
of Christ, however, it was probably a small, insignificant village, for 
it is not even mentioned by any writer before Christ's time, nor by 
Josephus. That it was not held in very high repute by the Jews is 
shown by the words of Nathaniel to Philip : "Can there any good 
thing come out of Nazareth?" (John 1:46). In fact, the entire 
province of Galilee was not highly esteemed, for many of its inhabi- 
tants, especially in the northern part, were of a mixed character — 
Jews, Egyptians, Arabians, and Phoenicians — and their dialect was 
provincial, rough, harsh, and uncouth. Christ's disciples, who were 
chosen from this section of the country, were easily distinguished by 
their peculiar dialect (Mark 14:70). According to Josephus, its 
people were of a seditious, turbulent character, and this gives a point 
to the accusation afterwards made against Paul of his being "a ring- 
leader of the sect of the Nazarenes" (Acts 24: 5). Thus the Judean 
Jews could not look with favor upon the religion proceeding from 
Galilee, hence the term "Nazarene" was applied as a term of re- 
proach. The words of the chief priests to Nicodemus convey their 
general attitude: "Search, and look: for out of Galilee ariseth no 
prophet" (John 7:52). 

To this small, insignificant village of Nazareth the angel Gabriel 
was sent from God to convey to the Virgin Mary the announcement 
of the coming of the Christ-child (Luke 1:26), while the decree of 
the Roman emperor took her and her husband into Judea at the proper 



222 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



223 



time to fulfil the prediction of the prophet that the ruler of Israel 
should proceed from Bethlehem (Mic. 5:2; Mat- 
Jmus ^°"** °^ *^^^ 2)- Afterwards, "they returned into Galilee, to 
their own city Nazareth. And the child grew and 
waxed strong in spirit, filled with wisdom: and the grace of God was 
upon him" (Luke 2:39, 40). Though he spent nearly thirty years 
in this village, we have no further details in the gospel history con- 




interior of Church of the Annunciation 



cerning his life here, aside from the one circumstance of his visit to 
Jerusalem with his parents at the age of twelve years; after which 
"he went down with them, and came to Nazareth," where he "in- 
creased in wisdom and stature, and in favor with God and man" 
(Luke 2:51, 52). In Matt. 13:55 Joseph is referred to as a car- 
penter ; while in Mark 6 : 3 Jesus himself is spoken of as "the car- 
penter, the son of Mary" ; from this we infer that the Christ-child 
assisted his father in his shop-work at the carpenter's trade. While 
in this city viewing the natural scenery, which has to a great extent 
remained unchanged (since Nazareth has never been destroyed in 
war), I thought, "How interesting it would be if we had access to 
facts concerning the early years of our Lord in this place!" Of 
course the foolish stories of this period told in certain apocryphal 
books are wholly unworthy even of mention. I might say, however. 



224 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

that Luke 4: 16 appears to imply that Christ was accustomed to giv- 
ing assistance in the synagogue service in Nazareth. 

From the top of a hill back of the town one of the most extensive 
views in Palestine can be obtained. To the north can be seen the Leb- 
anon ranges, with the three peaks of Mount Her- 

An Extensive a. • u n ii, 4- ii, j. 

„. mon towering above all the rest ; on the west ap- 

pears Mount Carmel, the Mediterranean, and the 
bay and city of Akka ; toward the east Gilead and Mount 
Tabor are seen; while on the south stretches out the broad Plain of 
Esdraelon, with the hills and mountains of Samaria beyond. 

Next morning, April 24, we started out to visit the few places of 
importance to be seen in this sacred town* First we entered the 

Church of the Annunciation, which in its present form 
Church of the i . j i . j. • tx • /-n 

Annunciation ^'^^ completed nearly two centuries ago. It is o9 

feet long and 48 feet wide, and has a nave and two aisles. 
On each side are two altars. The church also has several paintings. 
The High Altar is dedicated to the angel Gabriel. There is a crypt 
below the High Altar, and into this we descended by a flight of mar- 
ble steps leading to the Chapel of the Angels, containing on each side 
an altar, the one on the right being dedicated to St. Joachim, and 
the one on the left to the angel Gabriel. Between these two altars 
a wide entrance leads into the next apartment, the Chapel of the An- 
nunciation, which contains the Altar of the Annunciation with the 
Latin inscription, "Here the Word was made flesh." On the left a 
round, upright column marks the place where Gabriel stood; while 
just a little to the north a piece of red granite column hangs from 
the ceiling directly over the spot where Mary received the angel's 
message. This is claimed to be the exact site of the house of the 
Virgin. 

We then went to the so-called workshop of Joseph, which is a sort 
of grotto or cave, and which is now (like other sacred places in Pal- 
estine) bound up in a church. We next visited the synagogue in 
which Christ is said to have" preached. It is a very ancient structure 
The Svnaffoeue whose history can be traced as far back as the year 

570. It is not as large as we had supposed, but 
considering the small size of the town anciently it was doubtless 
large enough to accommodate all of the worshipers. As I have al- 
ways been deeply impressed with the message which Christ delivered 
here in Nazareth after returning from his baptism, I opened my 
Bible, and read: "And he came to Nazareth, where he had been 
brought up : and, as his custom was, he went into the synagogue on 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



225 



the Sabbath day, and stood up for to read. And there was delivered 
unto him the book of the prophet Esaias. And when he had opened 
the book, he found the place where it was written. The Spirit of the 
Lord is upon me, because he hath anointed me to preach the gospel 
to the poor; he hath sent me to heal the broken-hearted, to preach 
deliverance to the captives, and recovering of sight to the blind, to 
set at liberty them that are bruised, to preach the acceptable year 
of the Lord. And he 
closed the book, rnd 
he gave it again to 
the minister, and sat 
down. And the eyes of 
all them that were in 
the synagogue were 
fastened on him. And 
h e began t o .say 
unto them, This day 
is this Scripture ful- 
filled in your ears. 
And all bare hira 
witness, and wonder- 
ed at the gracious 

words which proceeded out of his mouth 
Joseph's son" (Luke 4: 16-22). 




Ancient Syuag-ogrue at Nazareth 



And they said, Is not this 



Mary's Well 



THE DRIVE TO TIBERIUS 

After lunch, we entered our carriage for the afternoon drive to 
Tiberius. At the north end of Nazareth we stopped at Mary's Well, 
or Fountain, which is a beautiful spring of water. The 
Greek pilgrims bathe their heads and eyes with the 
holy (?) water. Many women were seen here filling their large jars 
Avith water, which they bore away on their heads. As this is the only 
spring that the town contains, it is very probable that Mary and the 
little child Jesus were often among the number who came to this place 
for water. 

From the fountain our road ascended in a wide sweep to the sum- 
mit of the hill toward the north, from which we obtained a fine view 
of the whole of Nazareth. As we were about to take a farewell look 
at the quiet town behind us, little Gerald began to cry very hard, and 
for a long time could not be comforted. The thought that this was 
where Jesus lived when a boy seemed to make a deeper impression upon 



226 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




S 



e 



S 
U 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



227 



Cana of Galilee 



his mind than anything else that we had seen, and therefore he did 
not like to leave. Finally we assured him that he could obtain a 
glimpse of the city on the morrow, as we passed by train through the 
Plain of Esdraelon; then he felt better. Looking northward, we could 
see down into a valley below, into which we now began to descend. 
After a few minutes we passed Gath-hepher, the birthplace of the 
prophet Jonah (2 Ki. 14:25), whose tomb is here shown. 

In about three-fourths of an hour we entered the village of Kefr- 
Kenna, which is pleasantly located, being surrounded with many or- 
chards of olive- and other fruit-trees. This is identi- 
fied as the ancient Cana, where Christ performed his 
first miracle by converting water into wine at the marriage-feast 
(John 2). On entering, we passed a nice spring, from which, doubt- 
less, the water used 
on the occasion of 
the miracle was tak- 
en. Leaving our car- 
riage, we visited the 
Latin Chapel, which 
occupies the site of a 
church of the Cru- 
saders, which in 
turn had succeeded a 
still more ancient 
church. This was 
discovered recently 
while excavations 
were in progress for 
the purpose of enlarging the present church. In front of the altar of 
the earlier church a Hebrew inscription was found which names a cer- 
tain Joseph as its founder; and this is supposed to refer to Count 
Joseph of Tiberius, a converted Jew who in the time of Constantine 
the Great built several churches. This ancient inscription interested 
us, though we were unable to read it. This church is said to occupy 
the site where the water was turned into wine. 

From the Latin Chapel we went to the Greek Church to see one of 
the waterpots which is said to have been used on the occasion of the mir- 
acle. It was hewn out of stone and appeared to be very 
Wateroot ancient. I was somewhat surprised at its size, but on 

investigation I find that the "two or three firkins," which 
was the capacity of the vessels mentioned in John 2, is equal to about 




Ancient 'Water-Pot at Cana 



228 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



229 



twenty-five gallons, and this agrees well with the size of the jar which 
we beheld. The record itself conveys the idea that the jars were too 
large to handle after the manner of ordinary waterpots, for they "were 
set there," and at Jesus' direction "they filled them up to the brim," 
I noticed a small, round hole at the bottom, and this reminded me of the 
words "draw out now, and bear unto the governor of the feast." I 
succeeded in getting a very good kodak view of this jar. We then went 
to the alleged site of the house of Nathaniel, where a small Fran- 
ciscan chapel now stands. According to John 21 : 2, Nathaniel resided 




Besieg'ed toy ■youngr Venders at Cana 

at Cana. This may in some degree account for his skepticism con- 
cerning Jesus, when he said, "Can there any good thing come out 
of Nazareth.?" (John 1: 46). 

In this village we were pestered by children, who crowded around 
us thickly, offering various little articles for sale. Whichever way I 
might turn, it was all the same — about all I could hear would be 
shouts of "hajji," "hajji." They thronged us from the time that we 
arrived at the spring near the entrance until our carriage was well 
under way after leaving the other end of the town. But we noticed 
one thing that drew forth remarks from our party, and that was the 
absence of begging. The familiar cry of "bakshish," "bakshish," 
"which had greeted our ears at every place since we landed in Pales- 



230 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



tine, was strangely lacking both in Nazareth and Cana, and an effort 
to sell us something was substituted. We could not help but appre- 
ciate the difference, though we were greatly troubled by them. We 
attributed this change to the influence of Christianity creating more 
thrift and business energy in these northern towns which are not so 
much under the influence of Mohammedanism. 

From Kefr-Kenna our route led northeast through a broad, well- 
cultivated valley, which, however, was not specially interesting for 
some time. After a while we reached Lubiyeh. Here 
Beatitudes ^^ 1799, a fierce battle was fought by the French and 

Turks. A little farther along we crossed a low saddle, 
to the north of which rises Karn Hattin, a mountain easily distinguished 




On the Mount of Beatitudes 

by its having two peaks, or horns, and also by its being isolated on 
a broad plateau. On this plain the power of the Crusaders in Pal- 
estine was completely broken when their forces went down to defeat 
before Saladin, July 3, 1187; when " all was staked in the presence 
of the holiest scenes of Christianity and all miserably lost." This 
hill is traditionally identified as the Mount of Beatitudes, where Jesus 
preached the notable Sermon on the Mount. 

As we rode along its base, we began to talk about stopping at the 
nearest place and making an ascent. By this time our Mohammedan 
driver had learned that we were bent on visiting every place of im- 
portance that we came near. He was anxious to get to Tiberius, and 
so, suspicioning that we might want to stop here, he began to ply 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 231 

his whip vigorously, and soon we were going at a very rapid rate. We 
succeeded, however, in getting the carriage stopped and, against the 
driver's protest, started for the summit of the moun- 
^^^ ^ tain. We found the distance much greater than we 

had anticipated, and we shall not soon forget that 
climb through the rank weeds, thorns, and thistles up the rough, stony 
slope of the hill. Poor little Gerald! He was too heavy to be car- 
ried a great deal, and yet it was very difficult for him to keep up with 
the rest. Occasionally he would stop for a moment, and say with a 
sigh, "Oh, I wish Jesus would give me wings !" or "Why does he not 
let me be an angel.'"' 

After a half hour's hard work we were rewarded with success ; 
and standing on the top of that historic mountain, we obtained a 
magnificent view of the surrounding country. West- 
Panoramic View ^^^^ ^^^ t^^ country we had just traversed. Turn- 
ing to the east, we caught our first sight of the deep- 
blue waters of the lovely Sea of Galilee, about 1,700 feet below us. 
Yonder, around the northern and northwestern shores formerly stood 
those crowded and busy cities which were the scenes of so many of 
our Lord's marvelous works. A little farther north, high up on a 
mountain, we could see the prosperous town Safed — "a city that is set 
on a hill," which "can not be hid," I shall never forget that hour. 
Every spot upon which our eyes rested seemed sacred. And with 
genuine feelings of devotion, we began to repeat the words that here 
fell from the lips of him who spoke as never man spake : 

Blessed are the poor in spirit: for their 's is the kingdom 
of heaven. 

Blessed are they that mourn: for they shall be comforted. 

Blessed are the meek: for they shall inherit the earth. 

Blessed are they which do hunger and thirst after right- 
eousness: for they shall be filled. 

Blessed are the merciful: for they shall obtain mercy. 

Blessed are the pure in heart: for they shall see God. 

Blessed are the peacemakers: for they shall be called the 
cliildren of God. 

Blessed are^ they which are persecuted for righteousness ' 
sake: for their 's is the kingdom of heaven (Matt. 
5:3-9). 

Returning to our carriage, we continued on our way, and soon 
began to descend in long windings from the high plateau that we had 
crossed to the level of the Sea of Galilee, which at this point again 
became visible and lay spread out before us in indescribable beauty — 



232 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




CQ 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 233 

the most sacred body of water on the globe. There was inspiration in 
the sight. We began to sing, but with a greater sense of reality than 
that described by the poet: 

Oft in silent meditation On its shores we long to wander, 

Back to Galilee we go, Sacred spot of all that land, 

With our fancy's brightest vision Where of old our loving Savior 

View the scenes of long ago. Left his footprints in the sand. 

Sweet and precious unto me 
Are the thoughts of Galilee; 
He who walked the stormy wave 
Still extends his hand to save. 

About six o'clock in the evening we arrived in Tiberius. Our first 
concern was a lodging-place. About the time we left Nazareth more 
than two hundred German tourists were due there from Haifa. As 
they were coming right on through to Tiberius the same afternoon, 
they had telegraphed ahead for hotel accommodations and secured 
every available place. After some delay and considerable difficulty a 
Latin priest kindly ojffered to provide for us as best he could in his 
own private house, and for this we were indeed grateful. He seemed 
like a very nice man, and Brother Ouzounian had some interesting 
conviersations with him in French. 

TIBERIUS 

Tiberius is now a town of about 8,600 inhabitants. Formerly it 
was the capital of Galilee, which name was extended to the entire 
province of Palestine lying north of the Plain of Jezreel. The coun- 
try was famed for its fertility and rich pastures, and the most beau- 
tiful part lay here just to the west of the Galilee lake. 

The city was founded by Herod Antipas and named in honor of 
the emperor Tiberius Caesar. It is mentioned only once in the New 
Testament (John 6:28), though the lake itself is sometimes referred 
to as the Sea of Tiberius. We have no account of Christ's visiting 
this place. Later, during the Jewish war, when Josephus was made 
commander-in-chief of the Jewish forces in Galilee, he fortified Ti- 
berius ; but the inhabitants voluntarily surrendered to Vespasian. 
Therefore the city was spared, and the Jews were afterwards allowed 
to live there. After Jerusalem was taken and destroyed, Tiberius be- 
came the chief city of the nation. Here flourished the school of the 
Talmudists, and here St. Jerome was taught Hebrew by a Jewish 
rabbi. Though the town is now prosperous and important, there is 
nothing specially attractive about it. It is known throughout Syria 
for its multitude of fleas, and this feature was specially objectionable 



234 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

to some of the members of our party. The Arabs say that the king 
of the fleas has his court here. 

Next morning, April 25, we started out for a sail on Jesus' sea; 
but as the breeze was very gentle, it proved to be more rowing than) 
sailing. Our boat was propelled by four men, who 
"Jesus' Sea" plied the oars with great dexterity. The lake is thir- 
teen miles long and about seven miles across at the 
widest place. The surface lies aboyit 680 feet below the Mediter- 
ranean. The river Jordan enters at the north end, passes through, 
and leaves at the southern end, on its course to the Dead Sea. Sweet 
memories of this bright day when we coursed over the sacred waters 
to the site of the ancient Capernaum will linger with us. From the 
lowly life of common fishermen on this lake, Christ called several of his 
followers to the sacred office of apostleship, to institute a religious 
movement which was destined to revolutionize history and make itself 
felt in every part of the world. Here he spent much of his time with 
them. Time and again they entered such boats as these and crossed 
over its waters. Here it was that the Master lay asleep in the back 
part of the ship while his disciples were battling for life with the vio- 
lent waves caused by one of the sudden squalls to which the sea is 
subject; and here "he arose and rebuked the wind and the sea, and 
there was a great calm." Here also when the disciples were storm- 
tossed and frightened in the darkness of the night, the Savior came 
walking on the waves of the sea, and Peter made his unsuccessful at- 
tempt to walk on the water to Jesus. Amid the pleasant scenes of the 
present, with memories of the sacred associations of the past crowd- 
ing in upon us, we expressed inspiration of our hearts in joyous song: 

"Each cooing dove and sighing bough "And when I read the thrilling lore 

That make the eve so blest to me Of him who walked upon the sea, 

Has something far diviner now — I long, oh, how I long once more 

It bears me back to Galilee. To follow him in Galilee! 

"O Galilee, sweet Galilee, 
Where Jesus loved so much to be! 
O Galilee, blue Galilee, 
Come sing thy song again to me!" 

As it required about one and one-half hours for us to cross to our 
first stopping-place, we had an abundance of time for conversation 
about the many things which have conspired to render this sheet of 
water sacred forever. The greater part of Christ's personal ministry 
was spent in the numerous villages which crowded its shores, or in 
the hills and mountains which look down upon it. Considering the 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 235 

mixed character of the inhabitants of this district and the contempt 
with which they were held by the Jews in Judea, who but Christ would 
have thought of going to this place to initiate his great work and to 
choose those disciples whose general ministry was to begin at 
Jerusalem ? 

How en j oyable this day ! The sun shone down upon us in his 
beauty, revealing the natural scenery on the banks of the lake, which 
S nic Beautv ^^ springtime, exhibits a luxuriant vegetation sug- 
gestive of an earthly paradise. The Galilean moun- 
tains, which rose above us in the distance, form a splendid background 
to the natural scene, and add beauty and richness to its grandeur; 
while to the north, beyond and above all, tower the snow-capped sum- 
mits of the mighty Hermon, so often extolled by the writers of the 
Sacred Narrative. And the eyes of our Lord often rested upon the 
very places where we were now fixing our eager gaze — happy thought! 
And here close at hand are to be seen the ancient-looking boats of 
the fishermen coursing about on the waters that still wake angrily 
in the sudden tempests, or sleep in sullen calms. Once more our 
hearts' emotions found expression in song: 

"I stood by the side of that murmuring sea, 

Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee, 
While the voice of the tempest was saying to me, 

'Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee.' 
And I thought of the Savior who, years long ago. 
Came to tell the glad tidings, his love to bestow; 
How he stood by the side of that murmuring sea, 

Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee. 

"I sailed in a ship on that billowy sea. 

Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee, 
While the voice of the tempest was saying to me, 

'Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee.' 
Then I thought of the hearts that once tossed on the wave 
When they cried in their peril to Him who could save; 
How the Master spoke peace to that billowy sea. 

Sweet Galilee, sweet Galilee." 

As we approached the shore at the north end of the lake, memo- 
ries of another kind caused our feelings to be mingled with a strain 
of sadness, for here lay those prosperous cities against which Christ 
uttered his severe maledictions because of their rejection of his mes- 
sage — "Woe unto thee, Chorazin ! woe unto thee, Bethsaida ! for if 
the mighty works, which were done in you, had been done in Tyre 
and Sidon they would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes. 
But I say unto you, It shall be more tolerable for Tyre and Sidon at 
the day of judgment, than for you. And thou, Capernaum, which art 
exalted unto heaven, shall be brought down to hell: for if the mighty 



236 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



works, which have been done in thee, had been done in Sodom, iij 
would have remained until this day" (Matt, 11:21-23). So per- 
fectly have these predictions of Christ been fulfilled that for centuries 
these places have been in such complete ruin and desolation that even 
their sites have been made the subject of much dispute. 

Our objective point was Tell Hum, at the north end. Recent ex- 
cavations by the German Oriental Society have succeeded in making 
the identity of this place with Capernaum as good as certain, so that 




Bulns of a Synag'og'ue at Capernaum 

when we stepped ashore we felt assured that we were really on the site 
of that proud wicked city, which was "brought down to hell." The 
Capernaum excavations referred to have brought to light the in- 

teresting remains of a large synagogue, which we vis- 
ited. This is probably the one mentioned in Luke 7 : 5, where, on the 
occasion of the sickness of a certain centurion's servant, the elders 
of the Jews came and besought Jesus to come at once and heal him;i 
affirming that the centurion who desired this favor was worthy, "For 
he loveth our nation, and he hath built us a synagogue." The struc- 
ture is seventy-nine feet long and fifty-nine wide, built of fine white 
limestone, and consists of a central chamber surrounded on the north, 
south, and west by a colonnade. The columns were monolithic shafts 
ten feet in length, surmounted by fine Corinthian capitals. The archi- 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



23: 



trave and frieze were richly ornamented with foliage and geometrical 
figures. These splendid works now lie scattered around, a silent testi- 
mony to the former beauty and splendor of this place. I desired to 
obtain a picture of this synagogue, but the Franciscans have the over- 
sight, and one of their number absolutely refused to allow any pho- 
tograph of the ruins taken. Brother Ouzounian talked to him very 
nicely in French, after which he relented and permitted us to secure 
the desired view. 

Farther up the mountain slope to the north, above Capernaum, 
perhaps two miles 
distant, lie the ruins 
of Kerazeh, probably 
the ancient Chorazin. 
Many walls of houses 
are still preserved, 
also some columns 
which probably sup- 
ported the roofs ; 
and in the center of 
the town may be seen 
the ruins of a syna- 
gogue. We did not 
have sufficient time 
to climb up to the 

exact site, so omitted it from our intinerary. Of course, all of these 
places were within easy range of our vision. 

Our course across the lake in the morning had been in a direct 
line from Tiberius to Capernaum, so on our return journey we fol- 
lowed the long course around the shore on the northwest and west 
sides. We soon came to Khan Minyah where there are some ruina 
which show that the place was once of considerable importance. 
We also saw a good fountain here. Our boatmen declared that 
this was the site of the Bethsaida of the New Testament, and 
numerous attempts have been made by certain scholars to con- 
firm this identity; while others say that the true Bethsaida, the 
birthplace of Peter, John, and Philip, was at the north end where 
the upper Jordan flows into the sea. As the identity of this place 
was not settled, it did not interest us very much; so we did not go 
ashore, but continued our course to the extreme western edge of the 
lake, and came to Me j del, which is identified with certainty with Mag- 
dala, the birthplace of Mary Magdalene. Just back of this place 




Betlisaida 



238 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



the cliffs arise to the height of more than 1,100 feet and are full of 
caverns, some of which we could see from our boat. One of these is 
large and contains an almost inaccessible labyrinth of passages. These 
fastnesses were once the haunts of robbers. Herod the Great be- 
sieged them here and could not succeed in destroying them until he 
hit upon the plan of lowering soldiers in cages from the cliffs above 
to the mouths of the caverns. Hermits afterwards occupied the 
place. 







■».. " 






-j^ 






/^ 






"<< 


I ,• -,<^-> 


"^M 


->c 






,>-».ui.,..aefi > ahin^gai 




3iS iOiit-r *»»j»:. . ;;- . ,mK^^%:- ^""''"T^ ' . a , 
'.' . • .•■'■ . ■ ' ''--'■ , .', -^ 




^MHI^^IIHh 






hh^^hh^i 







Magdala 



Haifa 

Arriving at Magdala we decided to go ashore. The bank here is 
not precipitous and our boat could not come entirely to land; there- 
fore two of the boatmen carried us ashore one at a 
time. It did not take us long to decide to leave again, 
for I am sure that this is the most miserable village that I ever saw. 
The few inhabitants were a degenerate, wretched, and dangerous -look- 
ing class, therefore we started back for our boat. The boatmen took 
Gerald first, carried him out, placed him up on the top of the boat 
quickly, and let go, starting back to the shore for another one of us. 
Just at this time the boat gave a sudden pitch (probably caused by 
the motion of one of the boatmen who was in it), and Gerald lost 
his balance and fell overboard. The boatmen quickly effected his 
rescue, but he was thoroughly frightened. We tried to comfort him 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 239 

by saying that he had had a greater privilege than any of us ; for he 
took a bath in the Jordan, one in the Dead Sea, and now he went in 
the Sea of Galilee. We pressed a coat into service for temporary 
clothing, and removed his wet clothing and laid them in the sun to dry 
on the top of the awning which covered us. We arrived at Tiberius 
in time for lunch. 

In the afternoon we returned to the sea, where we entered a motor- 
boat which conveyed us, with other passengers, to the southern end 
of the lake, to Samakh, a station on the railway. Just as we ar- 
rived there, I discovered that one of our suitcases was missing; and 
we were greatly disappointed, for there was not sufficient time to re- 
turn and get it before train- time. We were not certain whether i it 
had been left at our stopping-place or had been seized along the way 
before the boat left Tiberius. Brother Ouzounian was the only one 
of our number who was qualified by language and otherwise, to trace 
such a thing as a lost suitcase, therefore it fell to his lot to remain 
behind to make search; so we sorrowfully said farewell, and made our 
journey to Haifa, on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea. 

We were not specially interested in the city of Haifa, though it is 
a prosperous town of about 20,000 inhabitants; our interest lay in 
Moiint Carmel Mount Carmel, at the base of which Haifa is situated. 
This is one of the most noted mountains in Palestine, 
and its beauty has been much extolled even by Bible writers ; Isaiah 
speaks of the "excellency of Carmel and Sharon ( Isa. 35:2) ," while 
Solomon employs Carmel as a representation of that which is "fair" 
and "pleasant" (S. of Sol. 7:5,6). 

That which renders Carmel forever sacred as the "mount of God" 
is the fact that here was the scene of the greatest of Elijah's mira- 
cles — one of the most marvelous of sacred history. The 
•pjie Place of a> • . . 

Great Miracle circumstances will be recalled by the reader. At this 

time Ahab was the reigning king of Israel, but was 
to a great extent under the malign influence of his wicked wife Jezebel. 
She was the daughter of Ethbaal, king of Tyre, and through her in- 
fluence the Phoenician worship, especially that of the sun-god Baal, 
was introduced in Israel. As a punishment for this offense, God sub- 
jected the nation to more than three years of terrible famine. Dur- 
ing this time the prophet Elijah, who had pronounced this judgment, 
remained in hiding from the wrath of the king, but afterwards ap- 
peared and challenged the worshipers of Baal to a public test on 
Mount Carmel in order to determine which was the true and living 
God. Here in the sight of all Israel, who had assembled to witness 



240 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



the test, these idolatrous priests constructed their altar, placed on it 
the sacrifice, and then called upon Baal to vindicate himself by send- 
ing fire miraculously and consuming the offering : but all in vain. After 
their complete failure, the prophet called the people to himself, built 
an altar, placed the sacrifice and covered it with water, and then 
prayed Jehovah to show that he was God in Israel and that Elijah 
was his true prophet ; whereupon the fire fell and burned up the sacri- 
fice and licked up 
the water in the 
trenches. When the 
people saw this, 
they fell upon their 
faces, and cried, 
"The Lord, he is 
God; the Lord, he 
is God." Then at 
the command of Eli- 
jah the false priests 
of Baal were taken 
down to the brook 
Kishon and there 
were slain (1 Ki. 
17, 18). 

After this mar- 
velous manifesta- 
tion of the mighty 
power of God, Eli- 
jah went up to the 
top of Carmel and 
there prayed seven 
times for the Lord to send rain upon the earth; upon which a rising 
cloud became to him a token of the desired answer, and he sent word 
to Ahab to return to his house quickly lest the rain should stop him 
(1 Ki. 18:42-46). 

Next morning we secured a carriage and began the ascent up the 

slope of Mount Carmel. We had often related the story of Elijah to 

Gerald, therefore he was very much interested in tliis 

jjjj^g^j^ trip. At a point about 558 feet above the sea we 

came to the "Monastery of Elijah," which we entered. 

This is a large building occupied by about twenty monks. In the 




Gerald's "Sacrifice" on Mount Carmel 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 241 

church we saw an old wood carving representing Elijah; and under 
the High Altar is a grotto, or cave, in which the prophet is said to 
have dwelt. That prophets and other religious persons lived here, 
probably in caves, in very ancient times is well known, and Elijah 
and Elisha often resorted thither (compare 1 Ki. 18:19, 42; 2 Ki. 
2:25; 4:25 with 1 Ki. 18:4, 13). 

Leaving the Monastery, we still continued to ascend. While on 
the way, I happened to look at the side pocket in Gerald's coat and 

noticed that it was bulging out. I asked him what 
Gerald's . . o o 

"Sacrifice" ^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ pocket, but he made no reply; where- 

upon I made an examination and found a box of 
matches, which he had secured in our room at the hotel. When asked 
why he had brought them, he at first made no reply ; but when pressed, 
he said that he had brought them so that he could make a sacrifice 
when he got up on top of the hill. I suppose he was afraid his faith 
would fail, therefore thought he would provide the fire himself. When 
we gained the summit, he gathered together some stones and made 
an altar, upon which he piled some dry weeds, and then attempted to 
set them afire. The wind was blowing so strong that he could not get 
the blaze started before the wind would extinguish his match; and 
the little fellow was about discouraged as he struck his last match, 
but, lo ! the fire took hold and blazed up, and then he was very 
happy. 

Mount Carmel presents a beautiful appearance. It forms a great 
promontory stretching out into the sea, thus forming the Bay of 
Akka on the north. On account of the heavy dew 
Mount Carmel ^^^ mount is covered with a rich green verdure the 
whole year round — a very unusual phenomenon in Pal- 
estine. The summit is covered with oaks, pines, and wild almond- 
trees, and farther down, where it is brought under cultivation, olive- 
and other fruit-trees abound and vegetation of every kind flourishes. 
At the foot of the mountain on the south runs the brook Kishon, by 
the side of which Elijah slew Baal's prophets. Many small rivulets 
flow down from the mountain, furnishing the slopes with an abund- 
ance of water, then empty their contents into this brook. From this 
point the view is magnificent: toward the south the view extends to 
Caesarea; on the west lies the great sea; toward the north are the 
blue ranges of the Lebanon and the seacoast as far as Tyre, where 
Hiram reigned — the king with whom David formed a league and from 
whom Solomon obtained great assistance in the construction of the 
temple. 



242 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



On our return we visited the School of the Prophets below the 
Monastery of Elijah. Here we were shown a large 
Prophets chamber, partly a natural cavern and partly cut out 

of the rock, which we were informed was anciently 
used for a school of the prophets. Around the sides is a stone projec- 
tion, or shelf, which formed a seat for the pupils. 

It might be interesting for me to digress long enough to describe 




Convent on Mount Gaxmel 



the schools of the prophets which existed during the Israelitish period, 
and to state the purpose of their establishment. From 
f *the ^ °° ^^^ references to the subject given in the Scriptures 
Prophets we learn that they were institutions where younger 

prophets were placed under the leadership and special 
instruction of older and experienced men of this prophetic office. The 
first school of this kind of which we have any knowledge was estab- 
lished by Samuel (1 Sam. 10: 8 with 19, 20, 21). Other schools were 
afterwards located at different places, as Gilgal and Bethel (2 Ki. 
2:3; 4: 38), and the students lived together in close fellowship (2 Ki. 
6:1). The pupils were known as "sons of the prophets," while their 
leaders were regarded as their spiritual parents, hence were addressed 
as "Father" (2 Ki. 2: 12; 6: 21). 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 243 

The purpose which these institutions served in the kingdom of 
Israel must not be overlooked. In the reign of Rehoboam, when the 
Their Purpose national separation occurred, the clerical tribe of Levi 
remained with Judah, where they might maintain their 
God-appointed service at Jerusalem; and thus the nation of Israel 
was left without any recognized spiritual head or divine leadership^ 
The wicked Jeroboam attempted to provide for the religion of his 
subjects by instituting a corrupt form of worship in Jehovah under 
the symbol of the golden calves which he stationed at Dan and Bethel, 
and which was continued until the overthrow of the nation. But God 
was greatly displeased with this. Therefore in order that the knowl- 
edge and worship of the true God might not be entirely lost to the 
nation these special institutions of the prophets were established and 
divinely confirmed by a succession of mighty wonders and signs (as 
in the case of Elijah and Elisha) which was not equaled by all the 
prophets of Judah. It appears that the first-fruits and tithes which 
by the Mosaic law were assigned to the Levites were in the nation of 
Israel devoted to these prophetic institutions (2 Ki. 4:42, with con- 
text). But of course the Lord did not confine his prophetic work to 
these established institutions, for Amos clearly describes himself as 
an exception to this rule — that he was not trained in a school of the 
prophets, but was a herdsman when the Lord called him directly to 
utter his predictions against Israel (Amos 7: 14, 15). 

But the fact that these schools of the prophets were located at 
the important centers of corrupt or idolatrous worship leads me to 
believe that they were not simply educational institutions, but were 
a sort of missionary stations. The "fathers" traveled about and vis- 
ited the different places. These facts may throw some light on the 
saying of Christ, "Call no man your father upon the earth : . . . 
for one is your Master, even Christ; and all ye are brethren" (Matt. 
23:8, 9). "In time past" God spake unto the fathers by the proph- 
ets, but 'in these last days he hath spoken unto us by his Son' (Heb.. 
1:1,2). 

From this interesting excursion to Mount Carmel we returned to> 
our hotel. At six o'clock in the evening I went to the railway sta- 
tion to meet Brother Ouzounian, who had turned back to Tiberius, 
and recovered the missing suitcase, then followed on the next trainv 
He reported he had found opportunity to do some very good mis- 
sionary work at Tiberius , and that he therefore felt that the Lord 
permitted the oversight of the suitcase in order to accomplish this 
result. 



'244 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



FROM HAIFA TO DAMASCUS 

Next morning our company separated. Brother Ouzounian re- 
mained at Haifa, waiting for the next boat to Egypt; and Brother 
Pambukdjian also remained in order to take a boat directly to Beirut; 
while we took the train for Damascus, The line skirts the north edge 
of Mount Carmel, passing through the Plain of the Kishon, and enters 
the Plain of Esdraelon, which it traverses in a southeasterly direction. 
From the train we obtained our last view of Nazareth far up on the 
Galilean hills, passed close to "Little Hermon" on our left and Jez- 
reel on the right, and soon after entered the plain of the Jordan. 
Thirty-six miles from Haifa we arrived at Beisan, the Beth-shean of 
the Old Testament (Judg. 1:27). From this place the railway line 
turns northward and ascends the west side of the valley of the Jor- 
dan, then finally crosses that river on a bridge. This is the lowest 
point reached by the railway, being 815 feet below the level of the 
sea. A little farther along we came once more to the southern end of 
the Sea of Galilee, to the little village of Samakh, from which we de- 
parted two days before. 

From this point the train began to enter the mountains of the 
country east of the Jordan. We fixed our gaze upon the waters of 
Leaving Galilee ^^^ Galilean Sea until the mountains shut off our view, 
and then we turned our attention to the beautiful 
valley of the Yarmuk, which we were ascending. This river is the 
largest tributary of the Jordan; in fact, its volume is nearly the 
same. It descends from the Hauran, and its deep channel is cut 
through great rocks of limestone. This we crossed and recrossed on 
great viaducts, and the passage of this gorge with its rushing tor- 
rents of water far below presents a picturesque scene. 

This section of the country was formerly included in the posses- 
sions of the half-tribe of Manasseh. It will be remembered that the 
The Hauran tribes of Reuben and Gad and the half-tribe of Ma- 

nasseh desired to settle east of the Dead Sea and the 
Jordan, and were therefore permitted to take possession of this vast 
scope of country which had already been conquered by the Israelites 
on their route to Canaan. In Ezek. 47:16-18 the Jordan River is 
made the boundary between Damascus, Hauran, and Gilead on the one 
hand, and the land of Israel on the other. But the region known to- 
day as the Hauran lies a little farther east, which we entered near 
Zeizun, a station eighty-four miles from Haifa. When the Israelities 
overcame Og, king of Bashan, they secured all of this country, which 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 245 

then contained threescore cities that were "fenced with high walls, 
gates, and bars" (Deut. 3: 1-5). 

It was noted for its rich pasturage, and is frequently alluded to 
in this respect by the Bible writers. But the country itself was air 
Ma V Ruins most unknown to the modern world until during the 

last half-century ; and even today it has not been 
completely explored. It is very rich and fertile, but thinly popu- 
lated. It abounds with remains of ruined cities and towns, which tes- 
tify to its former prosperity. Most of the present inhabitants live 
in the best preserved of these ancient houses. The cupboards, seats, 
and even the candlesticks, are of stone; and the cisterns hewn in the 
rock, in which drinking-water is preserved throughout the whole year, 
also date from an early period. A vast number of ancient inscrip- 
tions in Greek, Latin, Arabic, and other characters have been found in 
these parts, but many of them have not yet been read. 

About noon we arrived at the station Dera, where we stopped for 
half an hour. This town occupies the site of the ancient Edrei, which 
_, j^ . was the scene of the overthrow by the Israelites of 

Og, king of Bashan, already referred to. There are 
numerous ruins here now. At this place we j oined the main line of 
the Hedjaz Railway, which runs from Damascus to Medina. It was 
constructed for the purpose of assisting Moslems in their pilgrimage 
to Mecca. Unbelievers are not permitted to use the line for travel- 
ing farther south than El-Maan. Our course was northward from 
Dera to Damascus. 

As we were many hours on the train, we had plenty of time for 
observation and reflection. We were agreeably surprised at the nat- 
ural richness and the attractive appearance of this broad territory' 
of the Hauran which we were traversing; for we had never formed the 
conception of such a fine tract of land lying over here 
Inhabitants ^^ ^^^ from the sea. But we were just as deeply impressed 

(but unfavorably) with the character of the present in- 
habitants, chiefly Bedouins. Reeking in filth, scantily attired, tattooed 
on faces and hands with fanciful or grotesque figures, they certainly 
present a hideous appearance. At every stopping-place, we saw the 
soldiers of the government stationed for the purpose, we supposed, of 
protecting the trains and preserving order. Many times we expressed 
our thankfulness that we were on the train, and not left in the 
hands of such people. Now, this observation was not simply the exag- 
gerated "first-impression" of a foreigner, for we had spent sufficient 
time in the Orient to become pretty well accustomed to the different 



246 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

peoples, their appearance, costumes, etc. But these people presented 
a wild and fierce appearance that stood out in striking contrast with 
those nearer the sea, who are brought more in contact 
Belision with the influences of Western civilization. And these 

things directed our thoughts to the influences of re- 
ligion itself. For twelve centuries Mohammedanism has had perfect 
and undisputed sway over the region of the Hauran, and what hus it 
done for the betterment of the people? Absolutely nothing, so far 
as we can see. With the exception of the railroad itself, everything! 
is probably the same as it was in the seventh century — the morals 
and character of the people no better. 

Some of our Western people who are inclined to look with leniency 
upon the religion of the false prophet (as though it were a stepping- 
stone to the religion of Christ) should visit the interior of these Mos- 
lem countries and view its results in its unmixed state. No ; Moham- 
medanism has originated since the time of Christ, in 
Mohammedanism opposition to Christ, and has ever since waged the 
fiercest warfare with the disciples of Christ; hence is 
a step from, not toward, Christianity. Missionaries generally regard 
the Moslems as the hardest people in the world to reach with the gos- 
pel — not even excepting the Jews ; for the Jews have the Old Testa- 
ment Scripture with their prophecies of Christ, and to these we can 
appeal, while the Mohammedans have the Koran, which to them, is 
the suj)reme law, and this distinctly names the Christ and denies his 
divine Sonship. 

But I do not wonder why Mohammedanism is powerless to elevate 
its people, for as a religion it is constructed mainly in line with fallen 
human nature — not in opposition to it — and thus tolerates under re- 
ligious sanction the very things that degrade and disgrace any nation. 
The fierce and barbarous standards of seventh-century Arabia are re- 
flected in the character, example, and religion of the prophet; and 
therefore every country brought under its sway has withered as 
though struck by the most ruinous blight. Mohammed sanctioned the 
fearful slave-raids that tore apart and forever crushed the homes, the 
happiness, and the natural instincts of helpless victims. These raids 
Mohammedans have continued, as in Africa, down to our own day. 
Mohammed gave unrestrained rein to the vilest of human passions : he 
placed the sword in the hands of his fierce followers, and gave them 
license to all the plunder and booty that could be secured through war 
and assassination ; he permitted them to do whatever they pleased with 
any "infidel" woman that they met, and he himself set the example by 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 247 

taking to his tent the weeping widow of a Jew whom they had slain 
in cold blood the same day. 

Against this dark background I place in striking contrast Chris- 
tianity — the character of its Founder, and of his chosen apostles ; its 
Christianity true nature, and its effects in the world. Our Savior 

was a perfect model, free from all of the sins of hu- 
manity, which he vigorously condemned. His apostles were men of 
the holiest character who went forth to make war, but with weapons 
"not carnal." In its nature Christianity is opposed to every wrong 
act, impulse, or principle, and stands for all that is good; therefore 
its effects have been beneficial. I am aware that some of our carping 
critics blame Christianity for the superstition and darkness of the 
Middle Ages, but this I steadfastly deny: it took place, not because of 
Christianity, but in spite of it. The great forces of heathenism within 
the empire itself, and the mighty deluge of barbarism from without, 
which finally wrecked and overturned the empire, had their influence 
upon the Christianity of the day and adulterated it. But when, later, 
the open Bible was placed in the hands of the people and a higher type 
of Christianity arose, straightway the rapid elevation of society be- 
gan, until today we can point triumphantly to the results and say, 
"Wherever the highest and purest form of Christianity is, there you 
see the greatest moral, social, and spiritual development." No person 
who is not blinded by bitter prejudice can fail to see these facts which 
stand out in such striking contrast. Give us pure apostolic Chris- 
tianity — fill the earth with it — and this old world of ours would be 
converted into Eden, "the garden of the Lord." 

During the afternoon our route continued in a northerly direc- 
tion. On the left the lofty, snow-crowned summits of Mount Hermon 
were always visible. Late in the afternoon we crossed 

AiTiviiig sit 

Damascus *^^ broad depression of the Wadi el-Ajam, through 

which flows the river that is identified with the an- 
cient Pharpar (2 Ki. 5: 12). As we approached the city of Damas- 
cus from the south, we thought of the time when Saul was traveling 
along the caravan route in this direction, bent on the destruction 
of the Nazarenes, when Christ miraculously appeared to him and 
changed the whole course of his life (Acts 9). 

DAMASCUS 

Next morning we started out to view the place. Damascus is said 
to be the oldest city in the world. Of its origin nothing is known, but 
in the days of Abraham it was referred to as a place of some impor-l 



248 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Visiting 

Traditional 

Sites 



tance (Gen. 14:15; 15:2). It is mentioned repeatedly in connection 
with Israelitish history. Its present population is about 300,000; in 
its characteristics it is the most Oriental city in existence, and its ba- 
zaars are the finest in the East. But we were chiefly interested in its 
connection with Christianity. The doctrine of Christ must have been 
preached here soon after Pentecost, for in A. D. 36 Saul undertook a 
special trip here (this was on the occasion of his conversion) for the 
express purpose of destroying the Christians (Acts 9). 

We went to "the street which is called Straight," along which we 
traveled until we came to the "house of Judas" where, in answer to the 
prayer of the disciple Ananias, the blinded eyes of 
Saul were opened, and he was filled with the Holy Ghost 
(Acts 9: 10-18). We next visited, in another part of 
the city, the house of Ananias, which is now convert- 
ed into a small church with a crypt. We then went to the site of the 
house of Naaman the Syrian (2 Kings 5), which was recently de- 
stroyed by fire. I am 
not able to judge ac- 
curately as to the 
character of these 
traditions. The 
houses pointed out 
did not, it seems to 
me, bear evidences of 
any such antiquity ; 
though it is possible 
that they may occu- 
py the place of for- 
mer structures. Pass- 
ing around the outside of the city wall, we were shown the window 
above the wall where, it is affirmed, Paul was let down in a basket and 
escaped from the wrath of the Damascenes (2 Cor. 11:32, 33). Our 
guide then conducted us to the Mohammedan cemetery, where we 
were shown the graves of two of Mohammed's wives, and of his daugh- 
ter Fatima. On Thursday women come to mourn at the graves. 

In the afternoon our guide conducted us to Es-Salehiyeh, a sub- 
urb of Damascus lying to the northwest, and which is situated high 
upon a hillside. To the west of this village a broad platform was 
erected for the emperor William II, and from this position we obtained 
a fine view of Damascus and its environs. A more splendid location 
for a city could not be found. Situated in a broad plain near the 




House of Ananias, Bamascus 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



249 



foot of the Anti-Lebanon range, watered by numerous streams, and 
surrounded by teeming vegetation, the view is indeed enchanting. 

These extensive gardens with delicious fruits and 
Situation of flowers, which present such a contrast with the sterile 

Damascus regions of the Arabian Peninsula, have been greatly 

extolled by the Arabian poets as the earthly symbol 
of paradise; for to the Mohammedans paradise is pictured as an 
orchard traversed by "streams of flowing water," where delicious 
fruits abound. The river Barada, the ancient Abana (2 Ki. 5:12), 




Interior of the Grand XIoscLue, Damascus 



flows through the city, and we passed along its banks many times. It 
is a most beautiful stream; the cool, clear water flows very swiftly, 
sparkling and flashing in the sunlight. We thought we could under- 
stand full well the argument of Naaman the leper that 'Abana and 
Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, were better than all the waters of 
Israel.' Or, as Dr. Mansford has remarked, "Naaman may be ex- 
cused for his national prejudice in favor of his own rivers, which, 
by their constant and bountiful supply, render the vicinity of Da- 
mascus one of the most beautiful in the world." 

The Omaiyade Mosque is generally regarded as a place of spe- 
cial importance. We came to the door, but we did not enter, as we 
were not disposed to pay the entrance fee required. We had visited 
the celebrated Mosque of Omar in Jerusalem, and I expected soon 



250 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

to visit the most celebrated Mosque of all, St. Sophia, in Constanti- 
nople; so we did not think that this one could present any special 

feature of importance to us. The site was first oc- 
Mosaue cupied by a Roman temple which the emperor Theo- 

dosius I (379-395) converted into a Christian church 
and named it "the Church of St. John," because it contained a cas- 
ket with "the head of the Baptist." After the Mohammedan con- 
quest it was converted into a mosque, which has suffered certain 
losses by fire and otherwise. The building has never been restored to 
its original magnificence; but some parts of the ancient church have 
been preserved, as the entrance archway on the west side and the re- 
mains of a gateway on the south side, A dome-structure surmount- 
ed by a golden crescent is said to stand above the head of John the 
Baptist. But we wondered how John could be in so many places ! 
We saw where he was buried in Samaria ; we also saw on Mount Ebal 
a Mohammedan weli that contains his skull; and this mosque contains 
his head! It reminds me somewhat of St. Anne's wristbone, which 
the Catholics have exhibited in so many places at the same time. 

I had heard of a certain inscription still existing on a preserved 
portion of the ancient church, and this I desired to see. We passed 

around to the south side of the mosque. The south 
Inscription ^^^^ °^ *^^ mosque is largely hidden by a parallel 

street which is lined with carpenter shops on each 
side. But in one of these shops, high up, was an opening through 
which we could catch a glimpse of the mosque wall. Our guide se- 
cured a long ladder, and we climbed through this opening, and from 
the roof above could see the entire length of the mosque wall rising 
above these shops. Here the upper remains of a beautiful Roman 
gate are seen, and on the upper beam of the gate is a well-preserved 
Greek inscription which dates from the time of Theodosius, and 
which was overlooked by the Mohammedans when the church was 
converted into a mosque. The inscription is as follows: "Thy king- 
dom, O Christ, is an everlasting kingdom, and thy dominion endureth 
throughout all generations." The quotation is from Psa. 145 : 13, 
the words "O Christ" being an interpolation. This inscription pos- 
sessed more than ordinary interest to me. When it was carved in 
this stone, the gospel had triumphed over heathenism, insomuch tVat 
its temple was converted into a church; now, after surviving the vicis- 
situdes of ages, it still exists with its silent testimony that Christ is 
yet "King of kings and Lord of lords" — as a prophecy that he will 
yet subdue all his enemies before him. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 251 

Next morning, April 29, we took train for Baalbeck. After leaving 
Damascus, the railway ascends the Anti-Lebanon mountains, follow- 
ing the river Barada (Abana) for a long distance. 
Dama&cus ^ pure, clear water of the river, winding about in 

sharp curves and leaping from rock to rock in its 
rapid descent through the well-wooded valley, presented a pictur- 
esque scene. 

About eighteen miles from Damascus we stopped at Suk Wady 
Barada, a village surrounded by orchards. This town occupies the 
site of the ancient Abila Lysaniae, and the district around was called 
Abilene. Luke mentions a certain Lysanius as tetrarch of Abilene in 
the fifteenth year of Tiberius Caesar (Luke 3:1). The name "Abila" 
is popularly derived from Abel, and on a hill to the west of the town 
is pointed out the traditional spot where Cain slew his brother Habil 
(Abel). A little above the town we saw from the train an ancient 
road, from thirteen to sixteen feet wide, hewn in the solid rock at a 
point about one hundred feet above the river. Latin inscriptions on 
the rock state that the road was constructed under the emperors Mar- 
cus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, which would be during the latter part 
of the second century. Soon we turned to the northeast and ascended 
a valley between the two chains of the Anti Libanus to Sarghaya, the 
highest point, then descended in a northwesterly direction through a 
valley covered with oaks and wild rose-bushes, the mountains rising 
very steep on each side. Near Yahfufeh we turned toward the west 
and passed through a narrow ravine out into the broad valley between 
the Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon ranges, formerly known as Coele- 
Syria, where we stopped at a station called Rayak, and changed trains 
for Baalbeck. 

From Rayak our route led northeast through the beautiful, well- 
cultivated, but thinly peopled. Plain of Coele-Syria, formerly one of 
the most prosperous districts in all Syria. On the west margin of 
the plain the village of Kerak Nuh was pointed out, where the tomb 
of the prophet Noah (?) is shown. It measures one hundred feet in 
length! About fourteen miles from Rayak we saw on the right a 
modern weli built of ancient materials, of which eight beautiful gran- 
ite columns were brought from the ruins of Baalbeck. In the distance 
could be seen the stone-quarries of Baalbeck, and the great columns 
of the Temple of Jupiter. 



252 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



BAALBECK 

Baalbeck was formerly the most glorious city of Syria, being 
adorned with palaces, temples, and monuments. We were interested 
in it chiefly because it was the center of the religious worship of Baal, 
to which reference is ofttimes made in the Bible. Of the origin of the 
town nothing is known, but it is referred to in ancient Assyrian and 
Egyptian inscriptions by the name "Balbik," which proves that it was 
devoted to the worship of Baal. Here, also, heathenism made one of 




General View of Baalbeck Btiins 

its greatest efforts against the rising tide of Christianity. The Chris- 
tian religion was making itself felt all over the East ; and to counter- 
act its influence, the Roman emperors sought here to establish pagan- 
ism on such a magnificent scale that it would be sure to carry the day. 
Antoninus Pius began the erection of an elegant temple to Jupiter, 
and his successors carried the work on with such a degree of splen- 
dor that it became one of the wonders of the world. Christianity tri- 
umphed, nevertheless, and Theodosius the Great (379-395) destroyed 
the chief part of the Great Temple, which had already been dam- 
aged by an earthquake, and erected over its altar a Christian church. 
Mercury and Venus were also worshiped here during the pagan times, 
but the worship of Venus was suppressed by Constantine the Great. 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 253 

From the station we proceeded at once to the acropolis of Baal- 
beck, which is surrounded by gardens and covered by the remains of 
The Acropolis ^^° temples — the Great Temple (of Jupiter) and the 
Temple of Bacchus. I will not attempt to give an 
adequate description of these splendid and immense ruins, but will give 
only a brief sketch. The German Excavations of 1900-1904 have 
brought to light a multitude of interesting details. Many portions 
of the structure in danger of falling were restored. 

The temples themselves were erected on massive substructions. 
The entrance was on the east side where a very broad flight of steps 
led up to the propylasum, but these are now destroyed 
Temple ^^^ ^ narrow modern staircase occupies the place. 

This we ascended to the propylaeum, which stands on 
a broad platform nineteen feet above the surrounding orchards, and 
is supported by a large vault. This vestibule is about 198 feet long 
and about 40 feet wide. At each end of it there is a tower. In front 
it had twelve columns, the bases of which still remain. Three of these 
bear Latin inscriptions stating that the temple was built by Anton- 
inus Pius and Caracalla and was dedicated to the "Great Gods" of 
Heliopolis (the Greek for Baalbeck). The towers have a nicely exe- 
cuted cornice running around them at the same height as the portico. 
Doors led from this vestibule into the chamber in the interior of the 
tower. 

A large doorway in the center, on each side of which there was a 
small door, led from this vestibule into the forecourt, which was hex- 
agonal in shape and 195 feet deep. Its mosaic floors are partly pre- 
served. This was surrounded by colonnades, and on the four sides 
that were not employed for entrance and exit there were lateral cham- 
bers, each preceded by four columns. Three of these chambers have, 
been practically ruined by the Arabs, who converted them into for- 
tifications. 

In the west side of this forecourt, opposite the entrance, a three- 
fold portal led into another very large apartment, called the Court of 
the Altar. This court measures 441 feet from east to west, and is 
369 feet wide. It was surrounded on three sides (south, north, and 
east) by colonnades of polished granite columns. In the open space 
many ruins now lie scattered around, including bases of these col- 
umns, Corinthian capitals, and one monolithic shaft of Egyptian 
granite twenty-five feet in length. On each side of this court there 
are five small chambers, two of which are semicircular. The semicircu- 
lar ones were elaborately decorated and contained large niches fori 



254 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

statues; the square ones were not so elaborately arranged. Near the 
middle of this court stood the colossal altar, one-half of which, with 
the steps by which the priests ascended at the time of sacrifice, has 
been brought to light by the recent excavations. The other half was 
probably destroyed when the church of Theodosius was erected here. 

At the west end of this court a flight of steps led up to the Great 
T«nple itself. It was surrounded by 54 columns of immense size, 19 
on each side and 10 at each end (the corner ones being counted twice). 
Of these, only 6 on the south side remain standing, and they are vis- 
ible for a long distance from Baalbeck. They measure 7^ feet in 
diameter smd. more than 60 feet in height, above which are Corinthian 
capitals connected by an architrave which is in three sections. Above 
these is a sculptured frieze, then a tooth-molding, and still higher a 
cornice — in all, 17 feet high. It seemed marvelous to me how these 
immense blocks of stone out of which these columns were carved could 
be elevated to their present position. But the massiveness of the 
masonry is the chief wonder of this place. The sculptural work, 
while beautiful, is not executed with the same degree of elegance found 
in the remains of the Parthenon at Athens ; but the Parthenon itself 
could be placed in one corner of the apartment forming the Court of 
the Altar of this Great Temple. And when I viewed the foundation 
upon which this structure was placed, I saw that it agreed well with 
the proportions of the entire building, for these enormous blocks of 
stone were the largest that I had ever seen, many of them measuring 
from 20 to 40 feet in length. 

Leaving the Great Temple, we went southwest from the six col- 
umns to the Temple of Bacchus, which stands near it but quite un- 
connected with it. The latter temple is of the same 
B^hus° ^S^ *^ *^^ other, but is well preserved, and is prob- 

ably the most beautiful ancient building in Syria. The 
wall of the temple itself was surrounded on the outside by rows of 
columns placed 10 feet from the wall and 10 feet apart. There were 
16 of these on each side, and 8 at the ends. These columns, including 
the Corinthian capitals at the top, are 52 1-2 feet high and are con- 
nected by an architrave, with a handsome double frieze that extended 
clear around the building. This architrave was connected with the 
Cella (or temple itself) by huge slabs of stone forming a ceiling, and 
this celling was most elaborately executed with hexagons, triangles, 
etc., with central ornaments, while the intervening places were filled 
in with the busts of emperors and gods, relieved by foliage. On the 
south side only four of these columns stand connected, while only the 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 



255 



bases of the other remain. On the west side three columns are up- 
right and connected, and only fragments of the others are left. Huge 
masses of the engraved ceiling have fallen down. But the north side 
is almost entirely preserved; and the ceiling consists of thirteen sec- 
tions, some of which are damaged, but they show some fine busts. 

We ascended the flight of stairs at the east end and came first 
to the row of eight unfluted columns just referred to, which extended 
across the end. Back of this, at the distance of ten feet, stood an-* 
other row of six fluted columns, flanked by two of the smooth side-col- 
umns, already referred to. This formed a sort of portico; ten feet 
wide, extending across the east end. Back of this was another open 
space, the real vesti- 
bule of the temple, 
bounded at each end 
by the extending side 
walls of the temple, 
at the end of which 
was placed another 
fluted column on each 
side; while the back 
was formed by the 
front wall of the 
temple proper. 

Crossing the por- 
tico, we came to the 
portal of the temple, 

where we became aware of the real beauty of the place. The door- 
posts are lavishly decorated with sculptural work showing vines, gar- 
lands, and certain fruits. We noticed particularly soine grapes which 
appear so natural that one could almost be tempted to reach for 
them. Here also a youthful god is represented suckled by a nymph, 
while above are satyrs, etc. On each side of the entrance portal are 
piers containing spiral staircases. Some of us ascended the north 
one to the top of the temple. 

Within the temple itself works of great beauty greet the eye at 
every turn. The structure is 87 feet long and 73 feet wide. Each 
. side wall is divided into sections by six fluted semi- 

columns with very elaborate capitals. The wall-faces 
between these columns have two elaborately decorated niches above 
each other, the lower one having a semicircular pediment, and the 
upper a pointed one. The Adyton, or secret chamber from which 




Temple of Bacchus 



256 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



oracles were spoken, lay at the west end of thrs room, but at some 
distance above its floor. A staircase extending clear across the room 
led up to a platform, or landing, on which were two half-columns. 
Between these a second flight of steps led up to the Adyton proper. 
The wall on each side is adorned with reliefs representing Dionysos 
with maenads. The base for the statue of the god can still be seen. We 
felt abundantly repaid for the time spent in visiting these ruined 
temples, the last great effort of dying paganism. 

The extensive subterranean vaults were intended to raise the level 
of the temple, and some of these were used as shops. We passed 




Interior of Temple of Bacchus 

through one of these long vaulted galleries extending along the south 
side. 

The Great Temple stood upon an elevated terrace 44 feet above 
the level of the plain and about 23 above the Court of the Altar. For 

the construction of this terrace large substructions 
Substructions were necessary ; therefore on three sides of the temple 

foundation, and at a distance of about 33 feet from it, 
an enclosing wall was built to form the outside of the terrace wall, 
the intervening space being filled up with large blocks of stone. We 
passed around on the outside of this enclosing wall to view the blocks 
of stone of which it is composed. In the lowest course the stones were 



THROUGH THE HOLY LAND 257 

not so large; but above this was a course extending on all three sides 
which consist of stones each about 31 feet long, 13 feet high, and 10 

feet thick. Above this on the west side rises another 
Blocks "^^ ^^^ consisting of three gigantic blocks, two of which 

are about 64 feet long (each), and the other 63; and 
they are 13 feet high and 10 feet thick: so that the three blocks make 
a wall 191 feet long and 13 feet high. These enormous blocks are 
the largest masses of stone ever handled by man, and the greatest 
marvel of all is that they have been placed on the top of a substruc- 
ture already 23 feet high. The quarries from which they were taken 
are situated about one-half mile distant, down hill, and engineers are 
still puzzled to know how they were ever brought here and placed in 
their present position. 

Leaving the acropolis, we passed eastward into the modern vil- 
lage, where we stopped to view the ancient Temple of Venus, a small, 

well-preserved, circular structure. On account of 

emp e o much water around the outside at this time we did 

Venus ^ . . . , 

not enter, but are informed that the interior is dec- 
orated in a similar manner to the buildings on the acropolis. The 
construction of the outside is the most remarkable part of this build- 
ing. It is surrounded by beautiful Corinthian monolithic columns, 
standing at some distance from the templ-e itself. But the architrave 
which connects these columns is not convex, like the circular wall 
would suggest, but concave, and the cornice is lavishly enriched. Thus 
the columns stand out with great prominence, which style of arch- 
itecture gives the structure a rich and elegant appearance. Along the 
upper part of the wall of the temple runs a frieze ornamented with 
wreathes of foliage. As it was now nearly dark, we went to our 
hotel. 

Next morning, April 30, we drove to the ancient quarries, which 
are situated about one-half mile to the southwest of Baalbeck, and 
from which the blocks of stone previously mentioned 
O ^iries were obtained. Here we saw another gigantic block 

hewn out, measuring 70 feet long, 14 feet high, and 13 
feet wide. For some unexplained reason it was never removed. How 
such a huge mass (12,740 cubic feet; probably weighing more than 
1,000 tons) could be moved we do not know; still it does not seem 
probable that they would have chiseled it out if they had had no means 
of using it, especially in view of their experience in handling the large 
blocks already mentioned. 

From the quarries we drove to the railway station and began the 



258 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



last stage of pur journey. From Rayak we turned westward, cross- 
ing the broad valley of Coele-Syria, which we had been traversing 
lengthwise, and began to ascend the Lebanon moun- 
Lebanon tains. Our progress was very slow, but the scenerj' 

Scenery was delightful, presenting the variety of views com- 

mon to mountain ranges. When we attained the sum- 
mit and could see, far below us, the teeming vegetation of the Lel-a- 
non, the many pretty villages on its western slopes, the large, thriv- 
ing city of Beirut be- 
yond, and the great 
Mediterranean back 
of all, it seemed to us 
that we had now 
reached a fitting cli- 
max of all our sight- 
seeing — our minds 
being deeply impress- 
ed by the works of 
the Greatest of all 
artists and archi- 
tects. We descend- 
ed without special in- 
cident until we near- 
ed Beirut, when our engineer had the misfortune to fall from his en- 
gine. When the train came to a standstill, I went back, with many others, 
to the place where he was lying. He was alive, but unconscious. He 
was placed on the train and conveyed to the station at Beirut, where 
we saw him removed in a carriage. The extent of his injuries I could 
not ascertain. 

In a couple of hours our carriage arrived in the village of Schweifat, 
our home, thus ending our interesting and enjoyable trip through the 
Holy Land. 




Oigrautic Block of Stone at Baalbeck 



TO ASIA MINOR 

AND THE 
BALKAN STATES 



FROM BEIRUT TO CONSTANTINOPLE 

During the early part of the year 1913 we received a number of 
pressing invitations to come with Bro. G. K. Ouzounian and hold meet- 
ings in various points in Cyprus, Asia Minor, Turkey, Roumania, and 
other places. Accordingly, in the first part of August Brother 
Ouzounian came from Egypt to spend a few days with us in Mount Leb- 
anon, Syria, prior to starting out on this journey. Wife decided to 
remain in Syria, in order that she and Sister Hittle might look after the 
interests of the work there during my absence. 

So on the 9th of August Brother Ouzounian and I bade the Syrian 
saints farewell and embarked at Beirut on the steamer Tefewkieh. 
Early the next morning our ship passed close by the west side of the 
island of Cyprus. Cyprus was a place of considerable importance in the 
past, and it also stands associated with gospel history ; these thoughts 
impressed themselves on our minds as we stood gazing upon its rocky 
coast. But as we visited the place itself a little later in the year, I will 
not enter into a description of it now. The day passed without special 
incident. 

About half past nine on the morning of August 11, our steamer 
anchored in the harbor at Rhodes, the chief town of the island of that 
Rhodes name off the southwest coast of Asia Minor, and sepa- 

rated from the mainland by a channel ten miles wide. 
Rhodes is the most easterly island in the Mgean Sea, and is very pic- 
turesque. It is traversed from north to south by an elevated moun- 
tain range, and the lower hills are covered with pine woods. The 
climate is dehghtful. The soil being fertile, the island produces a 
large amount of grain, grapes,, figs, pomegranates and oranges. 

Rhodes was a celebrated island in antiquity and was one of the 
earliest centers of civilization in the Mediterranean. The Rhodians 
were a maritime people, and for several centuries the 
ImBortance island was an important seat of literature, art, and 

commerce. The city of Rhodes was founded about 408 
B. C, and was one of the most splendid of ancient Greek cities. It 
was built and embellished by one of the foremost architects of an- 
cient times, and possessed magnificent public buildings. 

261 



262 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

The Colossus of Rhodes, which was reckoned among the Seven 
Wonders of the ancient world, was an immense statue constructed 
of bronze, 115 feet high, and stood at the entrance to 
the harbor. About fifty-six years after its erection, 
however, it was thrown down by an earthquake. In the fourteenth 
century the island was taken by the Knights of Saint John, a mili- 
tary, monastic order of the Latin Church, and for about two hundred 
years it constituted, under them, a formidable bulwark of Christen- 
dom against the Turks, who were in possession of the eastern and 
southeastern shores of the Mediterranean. Finally, however, it was 
captured by the Turks, and still remains a part of the Ottoman 
Empire. 

Our steamer did not remain long at Rhodes, but turned and sailed 
in a westerly direction past some small and unimportant islands, un- 
til, rounding Cape Krio at the western extremity of 
a long, narrow peninsula jutting out from the main- 
land, we turned and sailed northeast into the gulf of Cos, through 
the channel between this peninsula and the long, narrow island of 
Cos on the northwest. Cos is one of the richest islands in this part 
of the ^gean Sea, and produces a large amount of fruit. The island 
is noted as the birthplace of Apelles, the greatest of Greek painters, 
and of Hippocrates, the father of medical science. 

When we reached the northeast end of the island of Cos, we 
turned toward the west. On our right, toward the north, lay an- 
other peninsula, named Budrum. This was the site 
oi Halicarnassus, m Caria, lamous as the birthplace 
of Herodotus, "the Father of History," and of Dionysus, the anti- 
quary, and as the site of the Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders 
of the world. The city was long a stronghold of Persian power, and 
the town made such a gallant defense against Alexander that he failed 
to reduce the citadel. 

The Mausoleum was a work of extraordinary magnificence in de- 
sign and execution. It was 140 feet high and 411 feet in circum- 
The Mausoleum ference, surmounted by a pyramid supporting a char- 
iot with four horses. The whole structure was built 
of beautiful Parian marble. Queen Artemisia, its builder, fought for 
Xerxes at Salamis, and was the heroine of the exploit which induced 
the king to exclaim, "My men are become women, and my women 
men." The Mausoleum remained intact until medieval times, when 
its ruin was effected by the Knights of St. John, who used its marble 
in making mortar for their castle of St. Peter. One extant account 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 263 

relates how they broke into the tomb and "admired and destroyed" 
its colored sculptures. Many of these slabs can still be seen bedded 
in the walls of the castle. What a shame that such a magnificent 
work of art — one with which the name of Praxitiles stands connected 
— should thus go down in ruin! The chief remaining sculptures were 
secured for the British Museum a little over a half century ago, and 
we saw them while in London. 

Having passed the island of Cos, our course was now northwest, 
and we passed in sight of a number of islands, some of considerable 
Isle of Patmos ®^^^" -^^^^g the number on our left was Kalymno, 
Lero, Lipsos, and finally Patmos. Patmos is a small 
island, its greatest length being about twelve miles and its greatest 
breadth six miles. It is an irregular mass of barren rock with little 
vegegation anywhere. The chief occupation of the preseent inhabi- 
tants (Greeks) is fishing. 

Under the Roman Empire, Patmos was used as a place for the de- 
portation of criminals, where they were employed in the quarries. Its 
greatest fame, however, lies in the fact that it was the scene of the 
apostle John's captivity, and the place where he received the visions 
of the Revelation. This seemed like a sacred place to me, and I had 
long had a desire to see it; in fact, we wanted to visit the place, but 
as there was no regular steamship line touching at the island, we found 
that it would be a difficult matter to go, and therefore had to content 
ourselves with merely a view of it. The most conspicuous object on 
the island is the Monastery of Saint John, on the summit of a high 
hill. The library is said to possess some manuscripts of great value, 
including Codex N., a quarto manuscript of the gospels, of the sixth 
century. A cave now converted into a chapel is said to be the place 
where John received the visions of the Apocalypse. 

A little further along we passed, on the right, the large Island of 
Samos, which lies off the coast near Ephesus. Night now closed in 
upon us, so we retired to our cabin. 

When I came out on deck next morning I found that our course 
was now southeast, and upon inquiry learned that we were entering 
Gulf of Smyrna *^^ ^^^^ ^-^ Smyrna. This gulf is thirty-four miles 
long, and one of the grandest in the ^gean Sea. The 
southern shore is mountainous and highly picturesque; a number of 
fine peaks being specially interesting. As we approached the eastern 
end of the gulf we were met by a small government boat, which led 
the way into the harbor of Smyrna. Prior to this time, during the 
Turkish-Italian War, and also during the Balkan War, the harbor 



264 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



was heavily mined, and the mines had not yet been removed; there-* 
fore the necessity of this precaution. Shortly before this time two 
or three boats, venturing into the harbor alone, had been sunk by these 
mines. On the surface of the water floated a number of casks, which 
of course were anchored, and we followed in a zig-zag course the little 
boat, as it went in and out among these barrels. After passing a 
strong modern fort on the right, the whole range of mountains which 
enclose the gulf came into view, a number of high peaks in the dis- 
tance, and on the shore Mount Pagus, against which nestles the city 

of Smyrna, spread- 
ing along the sea, 
and crowned with the 
ruins of an ancient 
castle. Soon we came 
to anchor in the har- 
bor. 

We expected to 
spend a few days at 
Smyrna, and also 
make a side trip to 
Ephesus, but the cap- 
tain informed us that 
the city was under 
quarantine o n ac- 
count of the prevalence of cholera in the town, and that we could not 
go ashore except on condition that we stay there. We soon decided 
Smyrna ^^ remain on the ship and continue our journey to 

Constantinople. But as it was several hours before 
the boat left, we had a very good opportunity to observe the city, 
which, being built on the hillside facing the gulf, was clearly seen. 

The old city of Smyrna was founded about the eleventh century 
B. C. According to tradition. Homer was born on the banks of a 
small stream that flows near by. Smyrna fell under the power of 
Alexander, who ordered its reconstruction on the site of the pres- 
ent city. The new city prospered and soon became famous for its 
schools of science and medicine, and for its magnificent buildings and 
great wealth. 

Christianity was planted here at an early date, and here was lo- 

Polycarp cated one of the seven churchs of Asia, to which the 

Book of Revelation was particularly addressed. This 

church was favored beyond the other churches of the Apocalypse, 




Smyrna 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 265 

and Smyrna is the only one of these cities that has retained a large 
portion of its original magnificence. Here Polycarp lived and la- 
bored and, in the Stadium on the hillside, suffered martyrdom in A. 
D. 155, during the persecution under Marcus Aurelius. 

Polycarp was a disciple of John, and according to a fragment as- 
cribed to a writer named Pionius, he was ordained bishop, or elder, 
of this city by that apostle. When brought before the Roman pro- 
consul at Smyrna, and required to renounce his faith in Christ, Poly- 
carp refused, whereupon he was condemned to the flames. By the 
aid of a field-glass I obtained a very good view of the Stadium where 
his martyrdom occurred and where his reputed tomb is still shown. 

Night closed in upon us before we again entered the^gean Sea, 
and the next morning we were passing through the Dardanelles. This 
narrow passage was also heavily mined, and we crept 
Mohammedan along very slowly. About this time we became con- 
siderably interested in the conversation of a liberal 
Mohammedan, a lawyer from Adana, in Asia Minor. The most of 
his conversation was in Turkish, but Brother Ouzounian gave me the 
substance of his remarks. This Mohammedan was an educated man, 
and had some very clear ideas concerning the cause of the present con- 
dition of Turkey, in comparison with certain other parts of the world. 
He also proposed what he considered to be a remedy for the situation, 
and this he divided into three sections, as follows : 

"1. Our women must become like Western women — in social re- 
spects practically equal with men. But they can not be elevated as 
they are, therefore we must send 5,000 or 10,000 of our Moslem women 
to America and England for their education (no matter if they do 
become Christian), and then bring them back to our country to assist 
in the elevation of the others. 2. Church and State must be separate ; 
no religious officers must have any position in the government. 3. For 
every scientific and educational position which we have to fill, we must 
bring capable men from Europe and America and follow them abso- 
lutely. Without these reforms the Turkish nation, and Mohamme- 
danism as a religion, cannot remain in the world — this is certain. If 
they hang me from the yard-arm I will say this. The Turks will send 
us to Gehenna for this talk, but it will happen just this way." 

He also gave a number of interesting personal experiences, and 
stated that he was only one of several thousand educated men who are 
bent on reformation in Turkey. 

On August 13 we arrived in Constantinople. Our objective point, 
however, was Bucharest, Roumania, but on our arrival here we found 



266 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

that we would not be able to enter Roumania without passports, and 
as Brother Ouzounian did not have one we were de- 

Constantinople ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^y^- '^^^^g » Turkish subject he set 
about it to secure the proper papers, and after con- 
siderable difficulty succeeded. We spent much of our time here prof- 
itably in visiting the chief points of interest of this historic place. 

CONSTANTINOPLE 

Constantinople, the capital of the Turkish Empire, is situated on 
a promontory jutting into the northern end of the Sea of Marmora, 
having the Golden Horn, an inlet of the latter, on the 
Situation north, and the Bosphorus on the east. The city proper 

is thus surrounded by water on all sides except the 
west, where there is an ancient and lofty double wall, four miles iii 
length, stretching across the promontory. On the opposite side of 
the Golden Horn are Galata, Pera, and other suburbs. On the Asiatic 
side of the Bosphorus is the city of Scutari. The natural situation of 
Constantinople possesses extraordinary beauty and magnificence. 

The history of Constantinople begins with Byzantium, which was 
founded on this site about 667 B. C. by Greek colonists. Chalcedbn 
Historic Sketch ^^^ already been built on the opposite side of the Bos- 
phorus. When these colonists consulted the oracle of 
Apollo for information as to where Byzantium should be built, they 
received the response, "Opposite the city of the blind." Judging that 
no one but blind men would build at Chalcedon when such a lovely 
promontory was inviting them on the opposite side, they selected this 
as the site of their city. 

The early history of Byzantium furnishes nothing of particular 
interest to the reader, except an incident that gave rise to the use of 
the crescent moon as an emblem. In 339 B. C. the 
Origin of Athenians, persuaded by Demosthenes, sent help to 

Emblem Byzantium to aid in repelling the attack of Philip of 

Macedon. During this siege a surprise party was be- 
trayed by the barking of dogs and the light of a falling meteor in the 
northern sky. Because of the failure of this attack "the citizens 
raised a statue to Hecate and Torch-bearer, and in her honor struck 
coins bearing her emblem, the crescent moon, which Byzantium has be- 
queathed to Constantinople, and Islam borrowed all over the world." 
The city surrendered to Constantine in 323 A. D., and was by 
New Rome ^™ rebuilt and enlarged and made the capital of the 

Roman Empire, under the name of Constantinople, also 
called New Rome. 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 



267 




268 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

As the first Christian emperors reigned here, Constantinople soon 
acquired quite a degree of importance in ecclesiastical affairs. A nuni- 
General Councils ^^^ ®^ General Councils were held here, including what 
is known as the Second, Fifth, Sixth, the Trullan, and 
the Eighth. The Second was convoked by Theodosius the Great in 
381, for the purpose of upholding the Nicene Creed. The Fifth was 
held by Justinian in 553, in regard to Nestorianism. The Sixth, 680- 
681, condemned the doctrines of the Monothelites and declared their 
leaders heretics. The Trullan (so called because held in the Trullan 
palace) was rejected by the Latin Church because it gave permission 
of marriage to priests, but was received by the Greek Church. The 
Eighth rejected the Iconoclasts. This council was not recognized by 
the Greek Church. 

This city has long been an object of strife among surrounding 
nations. Greeks, Persians, Goths, Huns, Arabs, Turks, Franks, Cru- 
saders, and Bulgarians have all encamped around it 

_,* ° ^. , or attacked it, but on account of its natural advan- 

Constautinople ' 

In 1453 tages it has seldom been captured. The Saracens 

threw themselves against its walls repeatedly, but 
were as often repulsed. Later the Turks made various attempts to 
take it until 1453, when, under Mohammed II they succeeded. The 
Greek emperor, the last of the Constantines, lost his life attempting 
to defend the city. The conqueror entered by the gate of St. Romanus, 
near which the emperor lay dead, and rode his horse direct to the* 
church of St. Sophia, which he entered, and there knelt and thanked 
God for his victory. Before the Ottoman conquest Constantinople 
was the treasure-house of Greek learning. Its overthrow drove the 
Eastern scholars into Western Europe, where their presence and 
learning had a powerful effect in bringing about the Revival of Let- 
ters. 

The present population of Constantinople is about 900,000, of 
whom about one-half are Turkish Mohammedans, the remainder be- 
ing Greek Orthodox, Armenians, etc. 

The first place we visited was the Mosque of St. Sophia, the most 
important ecclesiastical building in Constantinople, and the finest ex- 
ample of Byzantine art. The original church of St. 
St Sophia Sophia was founded by Constantine the Great, but was 

burned; in 532 the second church also was burned. 
Justinian then undertook the building of a new church, one which 
would be fireproof, no wood being used except for the doors. In 
carrying out this enterprise ten thousand workmen were engaged, un- 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 



209 




02 



270 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



der the command of one hundred master builders. The principal ma- 
terial for the walls was brick, but the interior was lined with costly 
marbles. To add to the splendor of this building, the ancient tem- 
ples of the gods at Heliopolis and Ephesus, Delos and Baalbeck, Athens 
and Cyzicus were plundered of their columns. At the dedication which 
took place Dec. 26, 537 A. D., Justinian exclaimed, "I have surpassed 
thee, O Solomon." But this building covered ten times the area cov 
ered by the Jewish temple. 

Removing our shoes (as is required of all persons entering mosques), 
we entered a hall at the west end of the mosque, from which five doors 




Interior of 
St. SopMa 



Interior of MoBq.ue of -St. Sophia 

lead into another large hall 205 feet long and 30 wide, extending nearly 
across the end. Here the walls are covered with marble panels and 
the vault with mosaics. From this apartment nine doors 
lead into the mosque itself. Over the central door, 
called the Royal Gate, is a long brass plate on which 
are engraved a dove, and a throne supporting an open book. On the 
pages of the book are the words, written in Greek, "The Lord said: 
I am the door of the sheep, if any man enter in, he shall go in and 
go out and shall find pasture." 

"The nave is practically a double square, 250 feet east and west, 
by 110 feet north and south, with aisles and galleries on either side, 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 271 

with a gallery on the west end over the eso-narthex [the entrance hall 
just mentioned], and roofed by a dome and two semi-domes. The 
aisles increase the breadth of the building to 235 feet." The dome is 
108 feet in diameter, and rises to the height of 180 feet from the 
floor. It is "built with forty ribs, with sunk panels, and a window at 
the foot of each panel, so that the dome appears as if it were suspended 
from above. The whole weight of the dome and semi-domes rests on 
eight great piers. On either side of the nave are four verde antique 
monoliths, quarried in Thessaly and presented to the emperor Justin- 
ian by the Prefect Constantine of Ephesus. In each of the four cor- 
ners are two porphyry columns, eight in all, quarried in Egypt, 
which once formed part of the Temple of the Sun at Baalbeck or Pal- 
myra; they were carried to Rome by Aurelian to adorn a temple 
there; and having come into possession of a patrician lady Marcia, 
they were presented by her to Justinian for the salvation of her soul. 
The vaulted roofs of the aisles are supported independently of the 
nave columns by twenty-four smaller columns of green marble. The 
walls and the piers are covered with marble panels of different colors, 
while traces of mosaics are to be seen in the arches and vaults under 
the galleries, and in the arch and semi-dome of the apse. Upstairs, 
six columns on either side, and six columns on each exedra, all of 
verde antique, separate the nave from the galleries, the roof of which 
is supported by twenty-four white marble pillars." 

Suspended on the wall on the right side of the apse is a large disk 
bearing the name Allah; another disk on the left side bears the name 
Mohammed; while other disks bear the names of Ali, Omar, Osman, 
Abu-bekr, and others, companions and successors of Mohammed the 
prophet. In the center of the dome is a verse of the Koran, "God is 
the Light of heaven and earth." 

When the city fell in 1453, the Janissaries hastened to St. Sophia 
to plunder the church of the gold and silver reputed to be concealed 

in the catacombs. They broke open the doors, seized 
Plundered ^^^ gold and silver ornaments, and divided among 

themselves the men and women who had fled to the 
sacred edifice for shelter. As some one has said, "The saddest pos-^ 
sible scenes of human agony were enacted under the grand cupola, 
amid the resplendent marble columns, and on the beautiful pavement 
of the magnificent church." The Conqueror converted the church into 
a mosque. The mosaic work has been defaced or covered over, and the 
crosses have been mutilated. In different parts of the building we 
could see the cross dimly showing through the covering which these 



272 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



despisers of Christianity had thrown over it — suggestive of the thought 
that Jesus can not be entirely hidden even by his enemies ; prophetic 
of that time when all the covering shall be torn off and Jesus appear 
in all his glory and beauty. 

We next visited the church of St. Irene, which is situated in the 
grounds of the old Seraglio, near St. Sophia. It was also built by 
Constantine, was destroyed by fire, with St. Sophia, in 
St. Irene ^^^' ^^^ ^^^ restored by Justinian on the original 

plan. This was the meeting-place of the Second Gen- 
eral Council, 381 A. D. This church has not been used as a mosque, 
and is now used as a museum of ancient arms. Here we saw an im- 




EiLtrance to the Imperial Palace 



mense collection of the most wicked-looking devices for torturing and 
killing men — a visible commentary on the lives of that race of people 
whose principal claim to fame rests on their ability to plunder and 
destroy. 

Just north of the church of St. Irene is an open space, which we 
crossed as we approached the entrance to the old Seraglio grounds, 
Orta Eapou ^^^ ^^ stopped at the gate called Orta Kapou, as this 

gate can not be passed without an order from the 
palace. This is a double gate, forming a little room on the right, 
where, in old times, those who had lost the favor of the Sultan were 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 273 

executed as they left the palace. And in the wall a little south of this 
point is the Imperial Gate, outside of which the heads of decapitated 
offenders used to be exposed. 

IMPERIAL OTTOMAN MUSEUM 

In this place we saw a great many objects of interest, a few of 
which I will refer to without attempting to describe them in system- 
atic order. In the department of Greco-Roman sculpture was a stat- 
uette of the Good Shepherd, dating from the third century; also two 
fragments of a sculptured column containing the most ancient repre- 
sentation known in the east of the baptism of Jesus Christ. 

The Siloam Inscription, to which reference was made in the de- 
scription of Jerusalem, and which is cut on a block of limestone, was 
discovered in Jerusalem in 1880 in the underground 
Inscription channel between the Virgin's Spring and the Pool of 

Siloam. This inscription dates from the time of King 
Hezekiah, seventh century B. C, and is the oldest known Hebrew in- 
scription of the purest Biblical Hebrew. It is in six lines, and records 
the history of the digging of that underground passage, and states 
that the workmen began working at both ends: "and that after that 
on the day of excavating the excavators had struck pick against pick, 
one against the other, the waters flowed from the Spring to the Pool 
for a distance of 1,200 cubits." 

The Jerusalem Stela was discovered in 1871 in a wall near the 
Mosque of Omar, in Jerusalem. Its Greek inscription reads as fol- 
lows: "No stranger may enter within the enclosure 
The JcruscilGm . . < 

g^glg^ around the temple, and its precincts ; whosoever is 

found there shall be himself responsible for the death 
penalty which will follow." 

The discovery of this inscription confirms the statement of Jose- 
phus that the Stelae were placed in the balustrade around the peri- 
bolos, with inscriptions in Greek and Latin forbidding strangers to 
cross the sacred enclosure on pain of death. 

There was here a lion from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, fourth 
century B. C. ; also fragment of porphyry sarcophagus, believed to 
be a part of the cover to the sarcophagus of Constantine I and of his 
mother, Helena. Another sarcophagus we saw here is called "The 
Weepers." This is made of Pentelic marble, and was found at Sidon. 
The sides and ends are divided by Ionic columns into eighteen com- 
partments, in each of which is the figure of a woman in an attitude of 
grief. The attitude of each of these figures is different from the others. 



274 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

This Sarcophagus, made of Pentelic marble, and also found at 
Sidon, is the most beautiful one that I ever saw. It is in an excellent 
state of preservation. Battle scenes and hunting 
S rconhaeus scenes in relief are pictured on the sides and ends, the 

whole arranged with artistic taste and beauty. As 
Alexander the Great is twice represented on it, the natural conclusion 
is that it is the sarcophagus of Alexander himself, hence the name; 
but this is not certain. 

Of more than ordinary interest was the Tabnith Sarcophagus, 
also found at Sidon. It was made in Egypt about the sixth century 
B. C. A hieroglyphic inscription states that the sar- 
Sarcophasus cophagus contained the remains of an Egyptian gen- 

eral named Penephtah; the remainder of the inscrip- 
tion recites a passage from the Book of the Dead. It seems prob- 
able that at some time the remains of Penephtah were put out and the 
sarcophagus carried to Sidon, for a Phoenician inscription makes its 
final destination clear, in the following interesting language: 

"I, Tabnith, Priest of Astarte, king of the Sidonians, son of Esh- 
munazar, Priest of Astarte, king of the Sidonians, am laid in this chest 
which you see here. I adjure each man who shall discover the chest 
which is here, come not hither, do not raise the covering, do not dis- 
turb me. For there is no silver, there is no gold, there are no treas- 
ures by my side. I am laid alone in this chest: do not raise the cover,, 
and do not disturb me, for such an act is an abomination in the eyes 
of Astarte. If you raise the cover, and if you disturb me, may you 
have no posterity among the living under the sun, nor any bed among 
the dead." 

But this imprecation upon the one who should presume to inter- 
fere with his bones was not sufficient to protect this old king irows 
being disturbed. When found, the sarcophagus was still unviolated; 
but when it was opened there were, after all, a few gold and silver 
ornaments found within. The withered body of the Sidonian king 
Tabnith now lies in a glass case at the head of the sarcophagus. 

It might be interesting to note that the discovery of these famous 
sarcophagi at Sidon was accidental. A peasant digging in his field 
near Sidon discovered a hole, at the bottom of which 
Nt^A^^^ ^^ suspected the presence of tombs. The Director 

Sarcophagi of the Imperial Museum, hearing of this, undertook 

an excavation, which resulted in the discovery of two 
underground chambers, from which twenty-six sarcophagi were with- 
drawn. One chamber had been violated at some time in the past, and 



i 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES ' 275 

the sarcophagi which were contained therein therefore suffered; but 
the other chamber was found absolutely intact. The date of one of 
these sarcophagi, known as the Lycian, is clearly established by the 
character of the reliefs on it, which are directly inspired by the 
friezes of the Parthenon at Athens. 

As there is an interval of two centuries between the execution of 
the Tabnith sarcophagus and the so-called "Alexander sarcophagus," 
it is likely that these numerous sarcophagi were destined as resting- 
places of the princes of Sidon during the sixth, fifth, and fourth cen- 
turies B, C. 

In the room of Cuneiform Inscriptions I found a number of things 
of Biblical interest. One was a large pebble from Tello, containing 

a brief history of Eannatum, one of the earliest Baby- 
I^criptiOTis Ionian kings. There were contract tablets and sea! 

marks of the time of Artaxerxes, 464-424 B. C, and 
of Darius II, 424-404 B. C. ; molds for tablets of Sargon I an(J 
Naram-Sin, about 3,800 — 3,750 B. C. ; and Babylonian seals and cylin- 
ders from 3,500 B. C. until the Christian era. 

There was a small black box containing a tablet belonging to the 
fourteenth century B. C, and speaking of Zimridi, a governor of La- 

kish. This is the only cuneiform inscription that has 
Inscription been found in Palestine, and it is an important find, 

for it proves that cuneiform writing was common in 
Palestine fourteen centuries before Christ — about the time of the 
Israelite invasion. A tablet letter was found at Tel-el-Amarnaj 
written by Zimridi to a king of Egypt. 

In one of the showcases was a barrel cylinder, found at Nineveh, 
which told of the siege of Jerusalem by Sennacherib, when Hezekiah 

was "shut up like a bird in a cage." This cylinder was; 
Cylinder formerly in the British Museum, but was presented to- 

the Imperial Ottoman Museum by Queen Victoria^ 
Some of these inscriptions are of particular value in proving the his- 
torical character of certain events described in the Bible. 

After leaving the Imperial Museum, we went to see some of the an- 
cient cisterns. One, called Bin Bir Direk, Cistern of 1001 Columns,, 
Ancient Cisterns °^ Cistern of Philoxenus, measures 190 feet by 170 

feet. It is underground, and we descended by a nar- 
row stairway. The vaulted roof is supported by 202 pillars, each pil- 
lar being composed of three tiers of shafts. The place is now half filled 
with earth. We were told that in former days this place was the scene 
of many murders, the unsuspecting victims being lured to the spot. 



276 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Another underground cistern is the Yereh Batan Serai, or Basilica 
cistern, near the northwest corner of the place of St. Sophia. It was 
built by Constantine and enlarged by Justinian, and is still in use. Its 
size is 336 feet by 182 feet, and each of its 336 columns is 39 feet high. 
On the 18th of August we made a side excursion to Ismid, at the 
head of the Gulf of Ismid. Crossing over from Constantinople to 
Scutari, we took train along the eastern edge of the 
Sea of Marmora, passing the site of the ancient Chair 
cedon, where in 451 A. D., the General Council was 
held which resulted in the separation of the Armenian from the Ortho- 



Excursion to 
Nicomedia 




monastery at Ismid (XTicomedia) 

dbx church. On the way we passed by the Princes' Islands, each of 
which has some particular claim to distinction. The largest one, 
Prinkipo, is the place where the Empress Irene was imprisoned. Ismid 
is beautifully situated at the head of the gulf on the site of the an- 
cient Nicomedia. Here Diocletian established his capital, from which 
be directed the persecution of the Christians. 

On our return from Nicomedia, we found that Brother Ouzounian's 
passport had been granted; therefore early next morn- 
ing, August 19, we hastened to the Roumanian Con- 
sel to have our passports vised, and then embarked on 
a steamer bound for Constanza, Roumania. 



Trip to 
ftoiunania 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 



•277 



The passage through the Bosphorus was a trip never to be forgot- 
ten, on account of the beauty and variety of scenery crowded upon 
The Bosphorus *^^ shores. At every point could be seen either gov- 
ernment buildings, colleges, beautiful residences, charm- 
ing villages, ancient towers and castles, or strong modern forts. And 
every foot of these shores is also rich in historic associations. Here 
have surged the armies of Persians, Greeks, Huns, Saracens, Crusa- 
ders, and Turks. Here, at a point near the Roumeli Hissar, or Tower 
of Europe, the army of Darius, numbering 700,000 crossed the Bos- 
phorus on a bridge of boats, in the year 515 B. C. Nothing remains 
as a memorial of that 
event, however, except 
the rock on which Da- 
rius sat as he watched 
the Persian hosts 
pouring from Asia in- 
to Europe. 

The Bosphorus and 
the Euxine (the an- 
cient name for the 
Black Sea) also fig- 
ure in the early legen- 
dary history of Greece. 
The Black Sea, which 
is to this day subject 

to the most violent tempests, was the dread of mariners in those early 
times. And Grecian imagination contrived to pic- 
tpg^jgg ture this sea as an object of terror, like some horri- 

ble demon, standing ready to swallow up any daring 
adventurer that would presume to sail upon it. 

Thus in the Grecian legends we read of the Argonauts, those he- 
roes who performed a hazardous voyage to Colchis, a far-distant 
country at the eastern extremity of the Black Sea, for the purpose 
of securing a golden fleece, which was preserved suspended upon a 
tree, and under the guardianship of a sleepless dragon. These heroes 
succeeded in securing the fleece. 

The sight of the Cyanean Rocks, in the Bosphorus at the en- 
trance to the Black Sea, reminded me of some of these ancient legends ; 
for imagination and legend regarded these rocks as sentinels guard- 
ing the entrance to the forbidden sea, and crushing the adventur- 
ers who attempted to pass them. We read that the Argonauts halted 




Frinkipo Island 



278 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

at the Court of the Blind Seer, King Phineas, on the shore of the 
Bosphorus, and defended him from the harpies which descended from 
the skies and stole his food. "In return for that service, Phineas 
gave the Argonauts instructions for passing the rocks, 'Let loose 
a dove: if it passes safely over the rocks, then use all the strength 
that sails and oars can give you, and trust more to your own arms 
than to the vows you may make to the gods. If the dove come back, 
turn round and retrace your steps.' When the Argo arrived at the 
place of danger, a dove was let loose, which escaped with the loss 
of its tail; the mariners attempted the passage, and rowed with all 
their might, and while the powerful arms of Athena held the rock asun- 
der, the ship got through, losing only some of its stern ornaments. 

But we found the Black Sea as quiet as a mountain lake, and had 
an en j oy able trip to Constanza, where we arrived early the follow- 
In Roumania ^^^ morning. After a few hours' ride on the train, 
crossing the Danube on the way, we reached Buchar- 
est, the capital of Roumania, shortly after noon. Here we remained 
over four weeks, holding meetings every day. However, as our la- 
bors in the work in Roumania, also of our proposed trip to Adrian- 
ople, Turkey, and Gumuldjina, Turkey (now Bulgaria), and other 
places, belongs more properly to the section of the present work 
devoted to "Personal Missionary Experiences," I shall refrain from 
giving a description of them in this place. 

September 17 we again reached Constantinople. # 

FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO THE SYRIAN COAST 

Again we were delayed in Constantinople, this time waiting for a 
steamer sailing to the ports we desired to reach. On September 23, 
however, we embarked on the Russian steamship Jerusalem, took our 
farewell view of Stamboul (the Turkish name for Constantinople), 
and sailed out into the Sea of Marmora. 

It so happened that on the return trip to the Syrian coast we 
traversed by day that portion of the journey which in going we had 
traveled by night. This was a course of considerable satisfaction to 
us, for it enabled us to view practically the whole scene along the 
west coast of Asia Minor. 

After crossing the Sea of Marmora, we reached Gallipoli, a town 

on the European side containing about 12,000 inhabitants, and pictur- 

The Dardanelles ^squely situated on a small peninsula at the entrance 

to the Dardanelles. Here Bayazid I erected extensive 

fortifications in 1391, but a small castle with an old tower is all 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 279 

that now remains of them. Gallipoli was the first European town 
that fell into the hands of the Osmanli in 1357. 

On our right we passed a small river, Kara Kowa Dere, where 
Ljsander crushed the power of the Athenians in 405 B. C, thus put- 
ting an end to the Peloponnesian war. 

Farther along we reached the most interesting part of the Hel- 
lespont. A small castle situated just above the small bay of Ak-bashi Li- 
man, on the Thracian side, marks the first place in Europe where the 
Ottoman standard was planted by Suleiman L A little farther south, 
on the left, a low strip of land containing a high mound with a fort 
on its back juts out. This spot marks the site of Abydos. Thel 
passage here is about three-quarters of a mile wide. It was here that 
Xerxes crossed the Hellespont while on his way to invade Greece. 
Before that time Leander swam the channel here, a feat which wa^s 
duplicated by Lord Byron a century ago. 

Shortly afterward we reached Chanak (also called Dardanelles), 
a city of about 15,000 inhabitants, where all ships are obliged to 
stop and show their papers. Here natives in small boats crowd 
around every ship and offer prettily colored pottery for sale. Here 
the current, running constantly into the ^gean Sea, is of great 
rapidity. On both sides are castles armed with Krupp guns. 

From this point we approached the mouth of the Hellespont, 
which gradually widens. On the left opens up the famous plain of 
q,j.Qy. Troy. Here a small harbor formed by two prom- 

ontories marks the place where the Greek fleet was 
drawn up on shore during the Trojan war. 

On a height overlooking the plain, about an hour from the sea 
at the mouth of the Hellespont, stands the city of Troy. The exca- 
vations of Dr. Schliemann have shown that the remains of one city 
were superimposed upon another. The detailed description of these 
ancient ruins is indeed interesting. The discovery of this city is of 
value in showing that the Siege of Troy in Homer's Iliad has a 
foundation in historic fact, howevermuch it is entangled in the tra- 
ditions and legends of reputed heroes. 

We then entered the JEgean Sea, which abounds in islands, large 
numbers of which are too small to be noted on ordinary maps, but 
which, however, lend interest and variety to the trav- 
Aegean Sea ^^^^' ^°^ here "every island, every bay, even the small- 

est headland, is steeped in poetry and history." On 
our right appeared the large islands of Samothrace, Imbros, and 



280 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Lemnos, and when the weather is clear Mount Athos can be seen. 

As we were anxious to investigate religious conditions in the East, 
we very much desired to visit Mount Athos, the home of monks, that 
Mount Athos ^® might have the privilege of studying monasticism 

where it exists untroubled and untrammeled by the 
institutions of civil society ; but we found the trip too difficult and 
too expensive for us in the amount of time at our disposal. 

Mount Athos, "the holy mountain," gives its name to a penin- 
sula about forty miles long and four miles wide stretching out from 
the European shore into the JEgean. The peninsula is heavily wood- 
ed, and the scenery is said to be magnificent. The chief interest of 
the peninsula, however, is in the monasteries and hermitages which 
have been established there for more than a thousand years. 

Karyse, the capital, has the distinction of being the 
Women only city in the world where no woman is to be found. 

For centuries no woman, and no animal of the fe- 
male sex, has been permitted to land on the promontory. 

A description of life in this solitary place is so well given by 
Tozer, in his Highlands of Turkey, that I will quote his own lan- 
guage. 

"At what period monks and anchorites first began to resort to 
Mount Athos, it is difficult to determine. . . . It is in conse- 
quence of this antiquity of the monastic community, and the free- 
dom both from attacks and from external influences which their iso- 
lated situation has secured to them, that Athos possesses so many 
features of interest at the present day. Nowhere in Europe prob- 
ably can such a collection of ancient jewelry and goldsmith's work 
be found as is presented by the relics preserved in the different mon- 
asteries ; nowhere certainly can the Byzantine school of painting be 
studied with equal advantage. Some of the illuminated manuscripts are 
inestimable treasures of art. The buildings of the monasteries are, 
with the sole exception of Pompeii, the most ancient existing speci- 
mens of domestic architecture, and within their walls the life of the 
Middle Ages is enacted before your eyes." 

Again Tozer says, "One of the greatest sources of interest in 
a visit to Athos consists in this, that here can be seen in one view 

all the different phases of eastern monastic life. First 
Paradise °^ ^^^' ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ hermits, who dwell like St. 

Anthony, the first anchorite, in perfect solitude, prac- 
tising the sternest asceticism. In the retreats we find small associa- 
tions of monks living together in retirement, and working for a com- 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 281 

mon stock. Again, when a number of these retreats are assembled 
round a central church a skete is formed, which in some cases dif- 
fers from a monastery only in not possessing an independent con- 
stitution. And lastly, there are the regular monasteries, each en- 
joying a separate corporate existence, possessing lands on the moun- 
tain, and generally also beyond its limits, and having the right to be 
represented in the Synod." 

But as our steamer was keeping along close to the Asiatic shore, 
passing headlands and islands which figured in ancient legends and 
poems, the thought occurred to me that our interest 
Associations -^^ those places does not center in their classical as- 

History sociations alone, for they also stand connected with 

the gospel history. Over these same seas the apos- 
tle Paul sailed many centuries ago, and gazed upon these same islands. 
As we passed through the narrow channel between the island of Ten- 
edos and the coast, I knew that here on the shore of the mainland 
Troas ^^^ situated the town of TroaS, which Paul visited 

at least twice; first, on the occasion of his trip from 
Mysia to Macedonia, and second, on his return from Greece. On this 
second visit, the apostle remained for several days, in order that he 
might be with the brethren on "the first day of the week, when the 
disciples came together to break bread." It was at this time that 
Euuychus was restored to life (Acts 20). 

Continuing our course a little west of south, we reached Cape 
Baba, the most westerly point in Asia, then turned toward the east, 
^ggQg following the course taken by Luke, Timothy, Troph- 

imus, and other fellowlaborers of Paul, who at 
Troas "went before to ship, and sailed unto Assos, there intending 
to take in Paul: for so had he appointed, minding himself to go 
afoot" (Acts 20:13). Soon we also reached the rocky hill of As- 
sos, where numerous and important excavations have been made by 
the American School at Athens. Here the ship bearing Paul's com- 
panions tarried until the apostle had time to walk across the promon- 
tory. "And when he met with us at Assos, we took him in, and came 
to Mitylene" (Acts 20:14). 

So also our next port of call was to be Mitylene. The large 
island of Mitylene now lay on our right, and after passing to its 
Mitylene eastern extremity we turned toward the south, leav- 

ing on our left the Gulf of Adramyti, at the head of 
which are the ruins of ancient Adramyttium. It was in a ship of 
Adramyttium that Paul sailed from Caesarea on his voyage to Italy 



282 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



(Acts 27:3-5). Soon we reached the port of Mitylene, where we 
remained for some time. 

Just after leaving Mitylene we passed, on the left, Dikili, the 
modern port of Pergamum, which city, "with its ancient acropolis 
Pergamos °^ ^ rock rising out of the plain, self-centered in im- 

pregnable strength," was the capital of the Attalid 
kings in the third and second centuries B. C. Here was located one 
of the seven churches of Asia. 

When our steamer reached Smyrna, we learned that cholera 
was still raging in the city and that we could not land. This was a 

sore disappointment 
to us, for in addition 
to visiting Smyrna it- 
self, we had planned 
to make a side-trip to 
Ephesus. Ephesus 
dates from remote 
antiquity, and here 
was located the splen- 
did Temple of Diana, 
one of the Seven 
Wonders of the 
world. Here Paul 
planted the gospel 
amid great persecu- 
tion. The church at Ephesus was one of the seven in Asia, and here, 
according to tradition, John spent his declining years, died a natural 
death, and was buried. For a long time Ephesus stood 
at the head of the churches in Asia, and here the Third 
General Council was held (431 A. D.). But that church 
is no more. In accordance with the prophetic statement, the candle- 
stick has been removed out of its place (Rev. 2:5); and even the city 
itself is nothing but ruins. I 

Leaving Smyrna in the afternoon, we passed the island of Chios 
about night. When we entered the Gulf of Smyrna, a few hours be- 
QjjjQg fore, we varied from the course taken by Paul on the 

trip to which we have referred, for his ship went from 
Mitylene direct to Chios ; he did not stop, however, but proceeded to 
Samos (Acts 20:15). Neither did we stop at Chios; we also passed 
by Samos without stopping, and came on past the island of Cos direct 
to Rhodes. But Paul tarried at Trogylium and Miletus, and then 




Mersina, Asia Minor 



Disappointment 
at Smyrna 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 



283 



came on direct to Cos and Rhodes (Acts ^20: 15; 21 : 1). At Rhodes 
our routes varied, for in sailing from Rhodes Paul passed Cyprus on 
the left hand and went direct to Syria, landing at Tyre (Acts 21: 
1-3). However, we nearly covered that exact course when going 
north, for we sailed from Syria (Beirut, north of Tyre), passing 
Cyprus on the right hand, and stopping at Rhodes. 

At 2 P. M., September 26, we started eastward from Rhodes along 




General View of Tarsus 



the south coast of Asia Minor, bound for Mersina. Here along the 
coast lay the regions of ancient Lycia and Pamphylia, the scene of 

some of the first missionary efforts of Paul and Barna- 
Mershia ° ^^^ (Acts 13: 13; 14: 24, 25). This is the coast along 

which Paul sailed, touching at Myria, in Lycia, on 
his voyage to Italy (Acts 27:5). We were informed that it would 
take thirty-six hours to make the trip from Rhodes to Mersina, but 
shortly after leaving Rhodes a young man, a Jew, bound for Jaffa, 
who had been on the ship with us from Constantinople, and who sat 
next to me at the table, took sick and died; and to avoid the necessity 
of burying him at sea, the captain ordered the ship to proceed with all 
speed to Mersina. Therefore we arrived after about thirty hours, on 
the evening of the twenty-seventh. 



284 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Memorials of 
Massacre 



Mersina, the seaport town of the province of Adana, has a popula- 
tion of 19,000. Brother Ouzounian had some relatives here, whom 
Tarsus ^^ visited. We then took train to Tarsus, the ancient 

capital of Cilicia but now included in the province of 
Adana. During the Roman period. Tarsus was famed for its schools. 
Its inhabitants enjoyed the privileges of Roman citizens, and the city 
rose to such distinction as to rival Antioch, Athens, and Alexandria. 
Here the apostle Paul was born and here Julian the Apostate was 

buried. The town now con- 
tains about 16,000 inhabitants, 
but the plain in which it is sit- 
uated is damp and unhealthful. 
Tarsus suffered severely in 
the massacre of Christians, 
which took 
place four 
years before 
our visit (or in 1909). The 
blackened ruins of many houses 
still stand a mute testimony 
to those times of horror and 
desolation. Some of the peo- 
ple who formerly lived in good 
houses are now sheltering 
themselves as best they can a- 
mong the ruins. Here we vis- 
ited the home of Bro. Nazareth 
Keshishian, of Alexandria, E- 
gypt. And his people who were 
present during the massacre 
informed us that at that time 
the blood-thirsty Turks who 
ravaged the city slew mostly men, and carried off many nice girls and 
women. An American missionary told me that from their window 
they could see the attendants in the government arsenal nearby hand- 
ing out arms to the mob. 

From Tarsus we continued our journey to Adana, which lies in 

the plain at the south base of the Taurus Mountains. The city has 

Adana ^ population of about 25,000, one-half of whom are 

Christians. The massacre of 1909 brought Adana into 

a melancholy prominence, for it is estimated that about 25,000 per- 




St. Paul's Crate at Tarsus 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 



2Sl 



sons were killed there. We remained there about a week in the home 
of Brother Ouzounian's cousin, who is the Director of Agriculture in 

the Province of Adaiia, 
At all these places we 
sought foropportun:- 
t y to accomplish 
good in our mission- 
ary work. 

Returning by rail 
to Mersina, Ave took 
steamer to Alexan- 
dretta, on the Syrian 
coast, arriving on the 
morning of October 
9. This city was 
founded by Alexan- 
der the Great after his celebrated victory at Issus, and was intended to 

form the starting-place for the great caravan route to 
Trip to — - - - - . . , , 




Cascades at Tarsus 



Alexandretta 



Mesopotamia. The harbor at Alexandretta is the largest 
and best on the Syrian coast. 
But our chief interest, however, was not in Alexandretta itself; 
this was merely our 
starting-place on a 
side-trip to Antioch. 
We secured a carriage 
and started out on the 
long drive. After leav- 
ing town, our road be- 
gan to ascend in long 
windings, higher and 
higher, until finally we 
reached Beilan Pass, 
after which we began 
to descend. The slopes 
are covered with Ar- 




Alexaudretta 



To Antioch 



butus, pines, myrtles, and other trees. In about five 
or six hours we reached the Lake of Antioch, a lake 
mentioned by Libanius, and in about two hours more we arrived in An- 
tioch itself. 



286 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



ANTIOCH 

Antioch is situated in the beautiful and fertile plain of the lower Oron- 
tes at the south base of the rugged Mount Silpius. The modern town 
occupies only one-tenth of the area of the ancient city, and contains 
about 28,000 inhabitants, one-seventh of whom are Christians. It is 
surrounded with many green orchards, which are irrigated by immense 
water-wheels turned by the river itself. 

Antioch was founded by Seleucus Nicator after his victory at 




Antioch, Syria 

Ipsus, 301 B. C. Seleucus and his successors adorned the city with 
magnificent buildings, and laid out streets of columns. The town 
Historic Sketch ^^^ ^^^° enlarged by Antiochus the Great, and Anti- 
ochus Epiphanes added a new residential suburb at 
the south end. The population was said to be of a restless and vo- 
luptuous character. The town frequently suffered from earthquakes, 
hxit it was always restored. 

It was the connection of Antioch with Christianity that attracted 
our attention and interest. Here for the first time a 
Christian church was formed entirely independent of 
the Jewish synagogue, and its members were here first 
called Christians (Acts 11:26). This was the scene of earnest la- 



tJliristlan 
Associations 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 



287 




Fart of Ancient Wall at Antioch 



bors of Paul, Barnabas, Peter, and others. From this point true 
missionary work began, for it was from here that Paul started on his 
missionary travels. And if Jerusalem is to be regarded as the cradle 

of Jewish Christiani- 
ty, Antioch claims the 
distinction o f being 
the cradle of Gentile 
Christianity. 

Antioch was the 
home of Ignatius, who 
suffered martyrdom in 
the time of Trajan. 
Here Chrysostom was 
a presbyter for twelve 
years ; and he it was 
who estimated the 
population of Anti- 
och, at the close of the fourth century, at 200,000, one-half of whom 
were Christians. The illustrious pagan scholar and orator Libanius, 
teacher of Chrysostom, also lived here. Julian the Apostate spent 
the winter of 362-3 
at Antioch, at which 
time, while engaged 
in making prepara- 
tions for the Persian 
War, he wrote his 
treatise, "Against 
the Christians." 

In 457 and 458 the 
island quarter of the 
city was entirely de- 
stroyed by earth- 
quakes. During the 
reign of Justinian 
(526) an earthquake occurred in which 250,000 persons are said to 
have perished; and another similar catastrophe two 
years later destroyed 5,000 more. Justinian exhibited 
great zeal in rebuilding the city, but was unable to 
restore its former glory. During the medieval period it was besieged 
and captured again and again. 

We secured a guide and started out to view the sights of the city. 




Cave Chnrch of St. Peter at Antiocli 



Later 
Earthquakes 



288 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Ancient Wall 



We learned that Antioch also suffered severely in the massacre of 
1909. Our guide, an Armenian, stated that he was formerly a well- 
to-do business man; that on the occasion of this massacre he was ab- 
sent on a trip to Jerusalem; and that when he returned, he found 
that every member of his family and all of his relatives had been slain, 
and his property taken. 

Ancient Antioch lay not only in the plain, but also on the slopes 
and summit of Mount Silpius, and the ancient wall which surrounded 
it runs from the river up to the hills and beyond them. 
This wall can be seen from a great distance. We 
spent a long time in following its course, but the Bab-el-Hadid, or 

Iron Gate, was par- 
ticularly interesting. 
Here the wall, which 
is about sixty feet 
high, crosses a deep 
ravine, and at this 
gate, about ten and 
one-half feet thick, at 
the bottom part of 
which there is a nar- 
row sluice to give 
passage to the moun- 
tain stream, which in 
winter descends in 
great fury. From this point the wall is built directly up the hillside, 
which was so steep we could not climb it ; so returning across the water- 
course and, descending by a rough path, we came to the 
church of St. Peter. It is a rock cavern, and its 
use as a church is doubtless very ancient. But the 
tradition that Peter really preached in this place is doubtless unre- 
liable. The interior of the church was in great disorder, the effect,, 
we were told, of being ransacked during the massacre. We secured 
some mosaics from the floor. 

About eight or ten rods to the east of the church of St. Peter is a 
remarkable rock relief which was carved by order of Antiochus Epi- 
Rock Relief phanes in order to avert a pestilence from the city. 

It consists of a female head with headdress, fourteen 
and one-half feet high, and a complete female figure resembling a 
caryatid. The outlines are somewhat injured by age and exposure, 
but are still clearly visible. 




Ancient Rock Relief 



Church Of 
St. Peter 



TO ASIA MINOR AND THE BALKAN STATES 289 

We also visited a number of other interesting sites which I will 
not attempt to describe. 

Returning, we arrived in Alexandretta late on the evening of 
October 11. The next day being Sunday, we attended meetings in 
the city. We then secured passage on an outgoing 
Beirut steamer, and after making one stop, at Tripoli, we 

arrived in Beirut October 14. In about two hours I 
rejoined my family and the saints in the village of Schweifat, in 
Mount Lebanon. 



RELIGIOUS 

AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS 

IN 
PALESTINE AND SYRIA 



RELIGIOUS AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS 
IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 



To write a complete description of the races, religions, and social 
conditions of the people inhabiting the Near East would require a very 
large volume, hence is beyond the limits of the present chapter. I shall 
therefore confine myself to a brief consideration of those general con- 
ditions, religious and social, which will give point and clearness to the 
discussion of missionary work and methods in the following chapters. 
Nor is it essential to the accomplishment of this end that the present 
treatise should include in its scope the entire Levant, with its multiform 
and complex problems: it can for the most part be limited to Pales- 
tine and Syria. 

Syria is the name given to that part of Asiatic Turkey which lies 
at the east end of the Mediterranean Sea, bounded on the north by the 
g jg^ Taurus Mountains, on the northeast by the Euphrates 

River, on the east by the Syrian desert, and on the 
south by Arabia. It thus extends along the Mediterranean coast for 
a distance of about 380 miles. Syria is often spoken of in a narrower 
sense, as distinguished from Palestine, but in reality Palestine is 
simply a portion of Syria. 

Etymologically the term Syria is merely an abbreviation of As- 
syria, and thus the term Syrians was formerly applied to all the sub- 
ject-peoples of the vast Assyrian empire. Afterward, in the Greco- 
Roman period, the shorter word Syria came to be restricted to the 
territory west of the Euphrates, and thus the great mass of Semitic 
population inhabiting this territory came to be called Syrians, al- 
though more accurately Arameans (Gen. 10:22). 

RACES OF PEOPLE 

The present inhabitants of Syria are of different types, the origin 

of which dates back to a remote period. In the early historic times 

Arameans different nations, the majority of whom were of Semitic 

stock, fought and settled within its borders. The 

Arameans were powerfully influenced by the civilization of Greece 

293 



294 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

and Rome, but as a people they still retained their Aramean speech. 
It is said that there still exists, on the eastern slope of the Mounij 
Lebanon range, three villages in which Aramean is spoken. There are 
now no traces of the early races, such as Canaanites and Phoenicians, 
also nothing at present to mark the former presence of Greeks, Ro- 
mans, and Franks. For the sake of distinction, I shall use the term 
Aramean to designate the true Syrians of the present day — the de- 
scendants of the former Semitic stock. The majority of the Chris- 
tians dwelling in Syria are representatives of this race. 

The Jews, also of Semitic origin, are reckoned as a separate peo- 
ple, for as descendants of Abraham they have retained their racial 
Hebrews characteristics until the present time, and maintaiL 

their independence from all alien peoples with whom 
they associate. Their national history centered in the southern part 
of Syria (Palestine), where considerable numbers still reside, and 
they are also to be found in other parts of Syria, especially in the 
cities. 

Though Syria is included in the Turkish empire, the number of 
^^jj.^g Turks resident in the country is comparatively small. 

For lack of reliable historical data, their origin is prac- 
tically lost in antiquity, but they are commonly reckoned as being of 
Turanian descent. 

The great majority of the population of Syria are Arabs, the 
Mohammedan conquest in the seventh century having opened the way 
^jg^ljg for their migration. These, however, are of two prin- 

cipal types — the pure Arab type of the Nomad tribes 
(Bedouins) and the type of the town Arabs and peasants, which 
shows an intermixture of foreign elements. And these two present 
some sharp contrasts. The peasants are a settled, laboring class ; 
while their brethren, the Bedouin tribes, roam around over the coun- 
try, despising agriculture and a settled life. These Bedouins are a 
worthless, lawless set, more or less independent of the government, 
especially in those regions bordering on the desert, and they are 
often found with their herds of camels, sheep, and goats, imposing 
on the lands occupied by the poor peasants. This Arab migration 
succeeded in fixing the Arabic language upon the entire country. 

The Aramaic element of the population, however, admits of being 
distinguished from the Arabic type. It is especially strong in the 
mountainous districts. 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 295 



RELIGION 

In Syria the religious consciousness is present everywhere and at 
all times with a vividness lacking in Protestant countries — everybody 
is religious. The idea of a direct and immediate re- 
Relleious lationship of the individual with God has taken such 

Sentiment fii'm hold upon the common consciousness of the peo- 

ple that it everywhere finds expression in stereotyped 
phrases in their language. "Inshallah" {if God will) is used as the 
equivalent of "I hope so." Many other religious phrases also are 
constantly used. 

But while this conception of the immediate relationship of the in- 
dividual with God is to a great extent lacking in Protestant lands, 
there is in the absence of such a sentiment one distinct advantage. 
The unbelieving individual who knows that in all spiritual respects 
God is shut out of his life, feels the necessity of having that real 
conversion which will restore his relationship with God. In sharp 
contrast with this, in Syria, where religion is naturally such a vital 
thing with every one, there being no consciousness of the soul's 
estrangement from God, there exists no longing for, and no clear 
idea of, conversion. Religion is accepted as a matter-of-fact — a mere 
accident of birth, we might say — and occasions little concern in this 
respect. 

If the inhabitants of Syria are diversified as to race, they are still 
more diversified as to their forms of religion. They are divided into 
Religious sects m^ny cults ; as, Mohammedans, Druses, Jews, 
Nuseiriyeh, Ismailiyeh, and Christians. The Motiam- 
medans are divided into sects, and the Christians are represented by 
many sects ; as, Greek Orthodox, Greek Catholic, Armenian Gregorian, 
Maronite, Roman Catholic, Syrian Jacobite, Armenian Catholic, 
Syrian Catholic, and different forms of Protestants. 

The division between the various religious cults is very sharp and 
distinct. At the time of the Ottoman Conquest the Turks did not 
seek to assimilate the peoples brought under their sway, but left 
them a certain degree of independent existence. The dividing line, 
however, between the different peoples was not race or nationality, but 
religion; and in law the heads of the respective religious bodies are 
regarded as secular heads also, so that a clear distinction is always 
kept up. As Frederick J. Bliss has said: "The relations of a man 
to his sect being not only religious but secular, he is never allowed to 
forget that he is Maronite, Greek, Jacobite,, or Protestant. The dis- 



296 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

tinction of religion is a controlling force in political life. The Leb- 
anon, for example, is divided into districts, each governed by a 
qaimaqam, who belongs to that sect which predominates numerically. 
Thus, in Zahleh the qaimaqam must be a Greek Catholic; in the Kura, 
Greek Orthodox; in the Shuf, a Druse; in the Kesrouan, a Maronite. 
The other districts are ruled by Druses or Maronites according to the 
same law. A similar law has regulated exactly the proportion of 
minor offices which each sect can claim, down to the very position of 
sweeper in the government house!" 

This spirit of division between the religious sects has resulted in, 
and is still further fostered by, their segregation in villages, or in 
Segregation different quarters of the same town. Every travele.' 

in Syria has noticed that one village is pointed out 
as a Christian village; another, as Mohammedan; another, as Druse; 
or another, as belonging to a particular sect of Christians, as Maron- 
ite. Thus Suke-el-Gharb is Christian (mainly Greek Orthodox) ; 
Aitat, near by, is Druse; Kefun is Mohammedan; and Shemlan, a lit- 
tle to the south, is Maronite. In Palestine, Bethlehem is a Christian 
town, Bethany is Moslem; while Jerusalem has its Christian quarter, 
its Jewish quarter, and its Moslem quarter. 

This law of division not only rules in their segregation in villages, 
but is constantly employed in the designation of individuals. Foi* 
example, an overseer in describing the men working under him will 
say that there are two Orthodox, one Maronite, five Druses, and four 
Moslems. So natural has this idea become that it is employed gen- 
erally in certain colloquial expressions in their language. Thus, if 
one should desire to know the contents or composition of some inan- 
imate object, he will say, "Shu dinu.?" which means literally, ^^What 
is its religion?" 

It is probably unnecessary to state that there is and always has 

been much antagonism between these various religious cults; in the 

nature of things it could not well be otherwise. In 
Antagonism of , ,^ • fn> i>i 1^11 

the Cults most cases their dinerences are lundamental, hence 

there is no possibility of union or harmony, except 
possibly a mere tolerance arising from necessity. But they are in- 
clined to be suspicious of each other, and numerous quarrels break 
out. Feuds between the Nuseiriyeh and Ismailiyeh are almost con- 
stant. Even the Moslems are not in harmony with each other, for 
the orthodox Sunni hate the sect Shiah Metawali. Christians despise 
Jews. Political strife between the Druses and Christians broke out 
in civil war in 1860, in which 12,000 or more Christians were mas- 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 297 

sacred by the Druses. Since that time, however, their relations have 

been rather peaceful, except in the case of a few local and temporary 

misunderstandings. 

But in considering the matter of antagonism between religious 

cults, it should be remembered that the real sharp line of cleavage 

runs between Moslems and Christians. Such antag- 
Moslems and • • . ^ •^ i a m 

Christians onism is not everywhere the same, however, tor all 

depends upon the ratio of numbers, wealth, and influ- 
ence. But as Bliss has said: "The Moslems are ever conscious that 
theirs is the religion of the race that conquered Syria. The Chris- 
tians can never forget that theirs is the faith that was conquered. On 
the one side are often found hatred, arrogance, and contempt; on the 
other, hatred, fear, and suspicion. The smoldering embers are liable 
to be fanned into flame by any sudden event. After months and 
years of apparently peaceful relations, the murder of a Moslem by a 
Christian or of a Christian by a Moslem may provoke a series of re- 
prisals which, if not checked by the government with a strong hand, 
contains the possibilities of massacre." 

On account of this diversity of races and cults in Syria, a co- 
rect understanding of religious conditions can only be obtained by a 

study of the origin, beliefs, customs, and religious 

•bV-^°„t44j life of the various sects. It will therefore be neces- 
Beligious lilie 

Necessary sary for us to devote some space to their brief ex- 

amination. But since certain of the non-Christian 
sects, as the Nuseiriyeh and Ismailiyeh, are smalLand comparatively 
unimportant, I will pass them by and give particular attention to 
the Druses, Mohammedans, Jews, and certain sects of the Christians. 

THE DRUSES 
The Druses are a peculiar people, probably of mixed Syrian and 
Arabian origin, occupying the mountainous regions of the Lebanon 
and Anti-Lebanon, with extensive settlements in the Hauran, and, 
it is said, a considerable colony at Safed, in Palestine. They form 
the exclusive population of about 120 towns and villages, and share 
with Christians in the occupation of about 230 more. There are no 
reliable statistics, but their number is generally estimated to be about 
75,000 men, not counting women and children. One of the most re- 
markable characteristics of this peculiar people is the pertinacity and 
success with which they have defended their independence against the 
encroachments of Turkish supremacy. Here, in possession of the 
religion which gives unity to the race, these hardy sons of the moun- 
tains have lived for more than seven centuries. 



296 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




Mr. and Mrs. F. G. Smith and Son, Gerald, in Druse Costume 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 299 

Although the religion of the Druses is in many respects mysterious, 
its rise and progj"ess can be stated with precision. It is generally re- 
garded as an heretical off-shoot of Islam, for as a 
Dn^in Cult system of thought its leading principles can be traced 
back to the Shiite sect of the Batenians, whose main 
doctrine was that "every outer has its inner, and every passage in the 
Koran an allegorical sense." 

The founder of this cult was El-Hakim Biama- Allah (that is, he 
who judges by the command of God), the sixth of the Fatimite 
caliphs of Egypt. During his reign, which began in the year 1019 
A. D., he indulged in a tyranny so terrible as to leave little doubt of 
his insanity. But as mad men or self-deceived enthusiasts sometimes 
do, he believed that he held a special intercourse with the Deity, and 
even proclaimed himself an incarnation of God. When these claims 
were made known in the mosque at Cairo, they were accepted and sus- 
tained by Ismael Darazi. On account of the hostility which the new 
faith produced, Darazi was compelled to seek safety in flight, and, 
being possessed of great zeal, he succeeded in winning over the ig- 
norant inhabitants of the Lebanon. El-Hakim, the founder of the 
cult, having disappeared, probably by assassination, his followers 
were persuaded to believe that he had merely disappeared, but would 
return to this earth and reign over it. 

But the faith of El-Hakim found even a stronger supporter in the 
person of Hamze ben Ali, a Persian mystic, who gave form and sub- 
stance to the creed, and enlisted an extensive body of adherents. And 
because Darazi had acted independently in his work, he was branded 
by Hamze as an heretic ; and thus, curiously enough, he is detested 
by the very sect which bears his name. 

The religion of the Druses is designed to be kept a profound secret. 
But some of their works of theology have fallen into the hands of 
Drusian Creed Christians, and therefore the main articles of their 
creed can now be stated with tolerable certainty. They 
are unitarians ; that is, they believe that there is one, and only one, 
God, but that he has made himself known to men by ten successive 
incarnations, that of El-Hakim being the tenth. No further incarna- 
tion can take place, for in El-Hakim the last appeal was made to 
mankind, and then the door of mercy was finally and forever closed. 
They also believe in the transmigration of souls ; that after death the 
souls of the virtuous pass into the bodies of Chinese Druses (they be- 
lieve that large numbers of their people exist in China), while those 
of the wicked may be degraded to the level of lower animals. And 



300 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

since the door of mercy is closed and converts are no longer admit- 
ted, they are enjoined to keep their doctrines secret from the profane. 
In order the better to accomplish this end, they are allowed, if neces- 
sary, to make a,ny outward profession of religion that best suits their 
convenience. Before their conquest by Ibrahim Pasha, in 1835, they 
pretended to be Moslems, in order to avoid being confounded with 
Christians who were suffering oppression; but later, when the Con- 
queror proposed drafting them into his army, in order to obtain im- 
munity they declared themselves to be Protestant. This liberal use 
of religon as a cloak is so well known to the people of the country, 
that, when we were there, we noticed that it was practically impossible 
to get any native Christian to acknowledge even the possibility of the 
actual conversion of Druses. Missionaries, however, have been sat- 
isfied with genuineness in a few individual cases. 

Obedience is required to the seven great commandments of Hamze, 
which are as follows: 1. Only truth must be spoken (that is, of 
Druse toward Druse) ; 2. Care of the brethren ; 3. 
Commandments Absolute renunciation of every other religion (this 
does not interfere with different religious pretensions 
made to other people) ; 4. Separation from heretics ; 5. Recognition 
of the unity of God in all ages ; 6. Resignation to his will ; 7. Complete 
obedience to his orders. Prayer is regarded as "an impertinent in- 
terference with the Creator." 

Not all members of the Druse community are trusted with the 

chief secrets of their own religion, the deeper mysteries being reserved 

for those who are initiated into a special class called 
A SecrGlf 
Qj^gj. oqqal — the wise; while the other members, regardless 

of position or attainments, are designated jahhal — 
the foolish or simple. The services of the initiated are held on Thurs- 
day evening in the khulwehs, which are usually situated on some lonely 
hilltop. 

The initiated class number about fifteen per cent of the com- 
munity; its membership being open to any Druse, of either sex, who 
is willing to conform to the laws of the society and give proof of his 
sincerity through a period of probation. They are required to ab- 
stain from tobacco and wine, and the women are to wear neither gold, 
silver, nor silk. I suppose it is the rigidity of these requirements that 
keeps the percentage of the initiated small. The oqqals mingle freely 
with the common people, but they are careful to maintain their pecu- 
liar privileges. They are distinguished by the wearing of a white 
turban. They are also divided into two classes, and I suppose that it 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 301 

is from the higher class that the sheikhs are appointed. 

According to the report of the Christian inhabitants of the Leb- 
anon, the Druses hold the doctrine that any act which they may com- 
mit is all right, provided it is done in secret and not 
ReTK)rts discovered; and the Christians are persuaded accord- 

ingly that the Druses are guilty of atrocious prac- 
tises m their secret meetings. Perhaps in this case, as in many others, 
"ignorance is the mother of suspicion." Others state that it is only 
one class of Druses that believe in libertinism, while the others are 
strict moralists. Whatever the actual facts are in this respect, it is 
just to state that the Druse theological works to which we have ac- 
cess inculcate a fairly good standard of morality. 

In private life the Druses are noted for their hospitality. They 
are especially friendly with the English and American people. Po- 
lygamy is not permitted among them, but the mar- 
H^pd a y riage of blood-relation (but not of brother and sis- 

Marriage ter) is common. All prenuptial arrangements on the 

part of the woman are conducted by the father, with 
her consent. The wedding ceremony is an elaborate one and the revels 
continue for several days. Divorce is freely allowed, and either party 
is free to marry again. The women have their faces veiled when in 
the presence of men other than their own husbands or immediate rela- 
tives. 

THE MOHAMMEDANS 

Mohammedanism as a religion owes its origin to Mohammed, the 
so-called prophet of Arabia, who was born at Mecca about 570 A. D. 
When about forty years of age, he began to announce himself as an 
apostle and to proclaim the doctrine of Islam (salvation) that "There 
is no God but Allah, and Mohammed is his prophet." 

It is not essential to our purpose to give here an extended history 
of the rise and progress of Mohammedanism. It is sufficient to state 
a few facts only. The Mohammedan era is dated from the time of the 
flight of the prophet to Medina (622 A. D.), and from that time the 
movement spread with remarkable rapidity through the union of po- 
litical power, religious zeal, and fanaticism. Within a few years the 
whole of Arabia, Palestine, and Syria were subdued by the victorious 
onslaughts of the Saracen followers of the prophet ; and still the 
movement continued to sweep on, conquering other countries. After 
awhile the initial movement expended itself, and then the power of 
the Saracen empire began to decline. Their religion, however, was 



302 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

taken up by the Ottoman Turks, originally from Central Asia, who 
finally succeeded them in the caliphate. In the thirteenth century 
these Ottoman Turks, appearing as allies of the Seljukian Turks, 
established themselves in Asia Minor, and their leader, Othman, pro- 
claimed himself Sultan. After Othman, or Osman, came eight great 
princes — caliphs — noted for their courage and enterprise, who, being 
animated by religious fanaticism and a passion for military glory, 
soon subdued the entire territory of the Near East and established 
the Ottoman empire. 

The Koran is the foundation of Islam. It was written by Mo- 
hammed during a period of twenty-three years. He claimed to have 
The Koran received it from God through the mediation of an 

angel, who is called the "spirit," sometimes "the holy 
spirit," and at a later time "Gabriel." This book is the sacred book 
of more than 200,000,000 people, who regard it as the immediate 
word of God. It is read extensively in schools, public worship, and 
privately — much more so (to our shame be it said) than is the Bible 
in the most Christian countries — and it has therefore been described 
as the most widely read book in existence. 

In Islam, the Koran is theoretically the final authority in all ques- 
tions, whether relating to theology, practical religion, or jurispru- 
dence ; for, like the law of Moses, no distinction is made between things 
secular and sacred. But the traditions of Mohammed, concerning 
what he said and did, has come to possess an authority equal to the 
Koran, and as these cover in detail almost every matter of ceremony 
and practise the entire system of Mohammedanism is rendered rigid; 
or, as Lord Cromer has said, "Islam speaking not so much through the 
Koran as through the traditions that cluster around the Koran, 
crystallizes religion and law into one inseparable and immutable whole, 
with the result that all elasticity is taken away from the social 
system." 

Mohammed took particular pains to give his religion definite 
form and substance so as to insure its longevity, but he predicted that 
Sects of Islam ^^ would be divided into seventy-three sects, every one 
of which would go to hell, except the one which rep- 
resented the religion of himself. But the number of sects has far 
exceeded seventy- three, the adherents of each one believing that they 
are following the true religion of the prophet, and will therefore be 
"saved." There are, however, but two main divisions — the Sunnis, 
who are known as the Orthodox, and the Shiahs. After Mohammed's 
death Abu-bekr, his father-in-law, succeeded him, and straightway 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 



303 



another party arose, holding that Mohammed's son-in-law, Ali, was 
by right entitled to be his immediate successor. The former party 
constitute the Orthodox, who are dominant in the Ottoman e)npire, 
Arabia, and Africa; while the latter party constitute the majority 
of Moslems in India, and form the national religion of Persia. Some 
of these exist in Syria also, where they are popularly known as 
Metawileh. 

Mohammedanism rests upon five pillars of practical religion. Ac- 
cording to the list of the Or- 

PiUars of Islam ^^o^ox Sunnis 
these are: 1. 
Confession of the creed; 2. 
Prayer; 8. Fasting; 4. Alms- 
giving; 5. Pilgrimage. The 
Shiahs, however, omit the first 
as belonging to the list of be- 
liefs, and, changing the enu- 
meration, substitute, in the 
fifth place, the holy war. 

The confession of the creed 
is simply the repetition of the 
M o h a mmed- 
an's common 
formula of 
prayer — "There is no God but 
Allah, and Mohammed is his 
prophet." 

To the followers of Moham- 
med, prayer is one of the most 
important, as well as one of 
the most noticeable, things in Minaret with aCnezzln Calling' the Faithful to 
connection with practical re- rayer 

ligion. It must be engaged in at five stated periods each day, at 
which time the face of the worshiper must be turned toward Mecca. 
Prayer '^^^ hours of prayer are announced from the min- 

arets of the mosques by muezzins, who with loud voice 
call the faithful to the worship of Allah. The call to prayer, trans- 
lated, is as follows: 

"God is great [four times repeated]. I bear witness that there is 
no God but God [twice repeated]. I bear witness that Moliammed is 
the Apostle of God [twice repeated]. Come to prayers, come to 



Witness to the 
Creed 




304 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

prayers, come to salvation, come to salvation. God is great. There 
is no other God but God." 

While traveling through the Holy Land our Mohammedan driver 
would stop by the roadside at the appointed times, and in our pres- 
ence fulfil the order of prayer. And when traveling by steamer oil 
the Mediterranean, on cloudy days Moslem pilgrims inquired of us 
the directions, in order that they might turn their faces toward their 
Holy City, Mecca, while kneeling or prostrating themselves on their 
prayer-mats. In the mosques at Cairo, Constantinople, and other 
places we saw large companies of the faithful engaged in these de- 
votions. 

The order of ordinary prayer, as given in "Notes on Muham- 
medanism," by Rev. T. P. Hughes, is as follows: 

The Niyyat, said standing, with the hands on either side: "I have 
purposed to offer up to God only, with a sincere heart, this morning 
[or as the case may be] with my face liblawards, two Rak'at prayers." 

The Tdkhir-i-Tdhrmah, said with the thumbs touching the lobules 
of the ears, and the open hands on each side of the face: "God is 
great." 

The Qiam, said standing, the right hand placed upon the left, be- 
low the navel (women place their hands on their breasts) : 

"Holiness to thee, O God! 
And praise be to thee. 
Great is thy name, 
Great is thy gi'eatness, 
There is no deity but thee." 

' ' I seek refuge from God from cursed Satan. 
In the name of God, the compassionate, the merciful. 
Praise, be to God, Lord of all the worlds! 
The Compassionate, the Merciful. 
King on the day of reckoning. 

Thee only do we worship, and to thee only do we cry for help. 
Guide thou us in the straight path, 
The path of those to whom thou hast been gracious; 
With whom thou art not angry, and who go not astray. Amen." 

"Say: He is God alone: 
God the eternal. 
He begetteth not 
And is not begotten, 
And there is none like him." 

(And portions of the Koran may be recited, as the worshiper 
may wish.) 

The Ta1cbir-i-Ruku\ said standing, body and head inclined for- 
ward, the hands resting on the knees, the fingers separated a little: 
"God is great." 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 



305 



The Tasbih-i-Ruku\ same position: "I extol the holiness of my 

Lord, the Great." (Thrice repeated.) 

The Qiam-i-Sami Ullah, said with body erect, the hands placed on 

either side: 

The Imam says : "God hears him who praises him." 
The people respond: "O Lord, thou art praised." 
The Takbir-i-Sijdah, said as the worshiper drops on his knees: 

"God is great." 

The Tasbih-i-Sijdah, recited as the worshiper puts first his nose 




Moslems at Prayer 

and then his forehead to the ground: "I extol the holiness of my 
Lord, the Most High." (Thrice repeated.) 

The T akhir-i-Ialsa, said while the worshiper raises his head and 
body, sinks backward to sit upon his heels, and places his hands on 
his thighs : "God is great." 

The Takbir-i-Sijdah, said by the worshiper while prostrate as 
before: "God is great." 

The Tasbih-i-Sijdah, said by the worshiper, still prostrate: "I 
extol the holiness of my Lord, the Most High." (Thrice repeated.) 

The Takbir-i-Qiam, said standing, or 

Takbir-i-Qa'ud, said sitting: "God is great." 

Here endeth one Rak'at, or form of prayer. 



306 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



The next Rak'at begins with the first chapter of the Koran. At 
the close of every two Rak'ats the Attahiyat \& recited, the worshiper 
kneehng on the ground, sitting on his left foot, which is bent undei,< 
him, his hands upon his knees: 

'The adorations of the tongue are for God, and also the adorations of the 
body, and Alms-giving. 

Peace be upon thee, O Prophet, with the mercy of God, and his blessing. 
Peace be upon us, and upon God's righteous servants." 

The Tashahhud, said with the first finger of the right hand raised: 
"I testify that there is no deity but God, and I testify that Moham- 
med is the servant of 
God, and the messen- 
ger of God." 

( Every two Rak- 
'ats closes with the 
Tashahhud. ) 

The Darud, said in 
the same posture: "O 
God, have mercy on 
Mohammed and on 
his descendants as 
thou didst have mer- 
cy upon Abraham 
and on his descend- 
ants. Thou art to be praised, and thou art great. O God, bless Mo- 
hammed and his descendants, as thou didst bless Abraham and his de- 
scendants. Thou art to be praised, and thou art great." 

The Du'a : "O God our Lord, give us the blessings of this life, 
and also the blessings of life everlasting. Save us from the torments 
of fire." 

The Salaam, said turning the head round to the right: "The 
peace and mercy of God be with you." 

The Salaam, said turning the head round to the left: "The peace 
and mercy of God be with you." 

At the close of the whole set of prayers the worshiper raises his 
hands and offers a Munajate, or supplication, which usually consists 
of prayers selected from the Koran or Hadis. The hands are raised 
in order to catch a blessing from heaven, and they are afterwards 
drawn over the face in order to transfer it to every part of the body. 
During the month of Ramadan, it is the duty of the Moslem to 
abstain from eating and drinking every day, from the first appearance 



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pt*;:«^4f^^MH 


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"^ 'i- s -'. " * 


Bl^" 


A*p 


■~V>/ 





Native Shoemalcer, Syria 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 



307 



Fasting 



of daybreak until the sunset. This is regarded as an atonement for 
sin. Persons who are physically incapacitated, however, are exempt 
from these exactions. It requires a great deal of 
courage and ofttimes no little suffering to observe faith- 
fully this requirement; especially during the long days of summer in 
the tropics among the poor who are obliged to continue their occu- 
pations and the travelers who must continue their journeys through 
the hot sun. On the whole, however, this fast is quite generally ob- 
served. But what they lose by fasting in the daytime they make up 




Women Going' to Marbet 



by feasting at night ; for as soon as the sun has set they are free to feat. 
The choicest food of the year is prepared for the night feasts' of 
Ramadan. 

In Palestine and Syria voluntary charity is a means of popularity^ 
but such is not the legal almsgiving enjoined by the fourth pillar of 
Almsgiving Islam, though the latter doubtless had its origin in 

the disposition voluntarily to part with a certain por- 
tion of goods for the benefit of others. The legal almsgiving was a 
sort of religious income tax levied upon the kinds of property that 
were owned in Arabia in the seventh century. The rate levied on 
different articles varied, but on some things, as fruit, it was as high 
as one-tenth. It is estimated that the rate averages one-fortieth of 



308 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Pilgrimage 



the entire income. It has been said that these regulations, based upon 
the practise of Mohammed, "show a complexity of detail that is rivaled 
only by a modern tariff bill," but "unlike a modern tariff bill, these 
regulations have not been subject to revision." 

The fifth of the paramount duties of the Moslem is the perform- 
ance, at least once in his lifetime, of a pilgrimage to Mecca. This law 
is one of the most unequal requirements of the Moslem 
faith and practise, for it involves a tremendous amount 
of sacrifice and effort on the part of some, while it is comparatively^ 

easy for others — depending 
largely on the wealth and ge- 
ographical location of the be- 
liever. But each Moslem faith- 
fully endeavors to fulfil this 
requirement, and every year 
thousands of these toiling pil- 
grims wend their way over 
land and sea toward Mecca. 
But many of them, worn out 
with fatigue, die along the 
way. 

The simple formula of 
faith — "There is no God but 

Allah, and Mo- 
Dogmatic , T . , . 
Theology hammed is his 

prophe t ' ' — 
does not constitute the entire 
Mohammedan creed ; there is a 
dogmatic, or theoretical, part 
which embraces the following 
points : 

"1. Belief in God, who is 
without beginning or end, the 
sole Creator and Lord of the universe, having absolute power, knowl- 
edge, glory, and perfection. 2. Belief in his angels, who are impec- 
cable beings, created of light. 3. Belief in good and evil Jinn [genii], 
who are created of smokeless fire, and are subject to death. 4. Belief 
in the Holy Scriptures, which are his uncreated word revealed to the 
prophets. Of these there now exist, but in a greatly corrupted form, 
the Pentateuch, the Psalms, and the Gospels ; and in an uncorrupted and 
incorruptible state the Koran, which abrogates and surpasses all preced- 




Moslem Women in the Street 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 309 

ing revelations. 5. Belief in God's prophets and apostles, the most 
distinguished of whom are Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus, and 
Mohammed. Mohammed is the greatest of them all, the last of the 
prophets and the most excellent of the creatures of God. 6. Belief 
in a general resurrection and final judgment, and in future rewards and 
punishments, chiefly of a physical nature. 7. The belief, even to the 
extent of fatalism, of God's absolute foreknowledge and predestina- 
tion of all events both good and evil." — "Universal Encyclopedia," 
Art. "Mohammedanism." 

It is said that Mohammed instituted reforms which ameliorated 
the condition of women in Arabia in the seventh century. While this 
may be true to a certain extent, it is also a fact, for which Moham- 
med is directly responsible, that, in his desire to protect his religion 
from change, he so fixed its character that it is im- 
Women possible for the world of Islam to throw off certain 

restrictions and customs concerning women. And 
these limitations, howevermuch they may have been adapted to con- 
ditions in Arabia in the seventh century, are altogether unsuitable 
for other lands at the present day. As Bliss has well said, "The posi- 
tion of women under Islam today is a striking illustration of the evils 
inherent in a religious and social system that has been practically im- 
movable since the death of its prophet." 

These evils can scarcely be exaggerated. Woman is regarded as 
inferior to man and subject to him in everything. She is kept se- 
cluded ; and few indeed must be the things productive of happiness in her 
prison-life of the harem. This seclusion prevents the man from seeing 
his bride-to-be and from forming any acquaintance with her, which 
under a polygamous system fosters jealousies and quarrels. The 
Moslem is allowed four contemporaneous wives, and in addition to 
these concubinage with slaves is his recognized right. He may beat 
his wife, but it will occasion no concern on the part of any one, for 
she is his. He may divorce her without any cause and without any 
process of law. An adherent of the Sunnis need only say to his wife 
three times, "Thou art divorced," or "thou art free," and the divorce 
is final. 

Such power on the part of the husband introduces a terrible ele- 
ment of uncertainty into the life of Moslem women. In case of di- 
vorcement, however, the woman Is not wholly without rights. In 
Syria, if she be friendless, she can state her case before the court, and 
if she wish to marry again a husband must be provided for her ; if not, 
her former husband must support her and also her children. If chil- 



310 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



dren are under seven years of age, they go with the mother; if over 
seven, they are allowed to choose. 

No doubt there are homes even under this system where comparative 
happiness reigns ; for all the men are not polygamists, and some may 
be kindly dispositioned. The law requires that if a man have more than 
one wife he must provide a special apartment for each one, and this 
makes polygamy a luxury that can scarcely be indulged in by the 
poor. It is said, however, that in some places poor polygamists dis- 
regard this requirement of the law. 

When Moslem women appear in public, they are always heavily 




Native Women Carrying' Water 



veiled. While Islam has so much that we feel inclined to condemn, it 
Temperance ^^^ some things that are worthy of commendation. 

One is, its exhibition of temperance. Total absti- 
nence is as much a part of Mohammedanism as is prayer, fasting, and 
pilgrimage, and for centuries this has been the glory of Islam. 

This practical elimination of drunkenness from millions of peo- 
ple, the vast majority of whom are grossly ignorant and vile in other 
respects, is a clear example of the potency of prohibitive measures 
in suppressing the drink-evil. May our Christian {?) nations fol- 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 



311 



low the example. But with sorrow and shame I feel it necessary to 
quote the following language of Bliss: "The use of intoxicants in 
Mohammedan lands can always be traced to Western influences. 
Through education obtained abroad, and through the temptations of 
bars and saloons kept by Christians [.''], native and foreign, drinking 
is on the increase among all classes of Moslems in the seaport towns 
of Syria and Palestine, as well as some interior cities. However, to see 
a drunken man, of any religious sect. Christian or Moslem, is a rarity 
in these lands. The whole population is, as a rule, still temperate." 
And I might add that it is "the temptation of bars and saloons" that 
fosters the drink-evil in our so-called Christian lands. 

An evil with which Islam has always been associated is slavery; 
and Islam and slav- 
ery have become so 
entangled that the 
abolition of slavery is 
practically impossi- 
ble. Where a strong 
Western sentiment 
exists, Moslems keep 
the matter of slavery 
in the background ; 
but it virtually exists 
even in Turkey at 
the present day, and 
Arabia is still the 
center of the Afri- 
can slave-trade. It is declared on reliable authority that in Damas- 
cus alone there are 2,000 white slaves in the families of the higher 
class of native Moslems. Most of the females are concubines. The 

children of such slave-concubines, however (as in all 

Islam), are free, and enjoy the same privileges as do 
the children of a legal wife. By bearing a child to her master the 
slave herself becomes free. The harems of Constantinople are also 
supplied with white slaves from Circassia. 

According to Moslem theology, God is one and sovereign; man's 

duty is to bow to His supreme will. It furnishes no 
Survey incarnation, and no atonement to bring man into 

filial relationship with God; in fact, man is only the 
servant, or slave, of God, not the son and heir. Thus, instead of 
bringing God near and manifesting him in human life, it merely re- 




An Arab Caravan 



Slavery 



312 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

veals the immensity of that space which separates man from God. It 
is fataKstic in the extreme, for instead of teaching that man is free 
to will, to choose, and to act, it teaches that he is a mere zero gov- 
erned by unchangeable decrees. In short, the entire system gives 
an imperfect conception of God and a wretched conception of man- 
kind, especially of women. The natural and inevitable result is the 
degradation of family and social life, such as we see in the world of 
Islam today. And while in certain of the darkest places of the earth 
Mohammedanism appears to accomplish a certain amount of good 
by destroying idolatry and elevating men from the lowest savage 
state, the system is so fettered by its fundamental creed that it leads 
to intellectual and moral stagnation. 

The population of Syria and Palestine is approximately 3,250,- 
000, of whom nearly 2,000,000 are Moslems. 

THE JEWS 

The history and belief of the Jews are so well known that I need 
not narrate them here ; so I shall refer briefly to a few points con- 
cerning the Israelites at present in the Holy Land. There are in all 
Syria and Palestine approximately 140,000 Jews, of whom about 80,- 
000 reside in Palestine. The majority of the Palestinian Jews use 
Arabic only. For the last four hundred years Safed, to the north-, 
west of the Sea of Galilee, has been the home of Jews, and there they 
have retained their native Hebrew, even forcing their Moslem neigh- 
bors to speak the Hebrew also. 

The Zionist movement has resulted greatly in the spread of Bib- 
lical Hebrew in Palestine. But the increased number of Jews in Je- 
rusalem at present is due not so much to the Zion- 
Movement ^^^ Movement as to the fierce persecutions of Hebrews 

in Russia and Roumania. The reports sometimes given 
out in the West that immense numbers of Jews are flocking to Pales- 
tine is a gross exaggeration. Bliss is authority for the statement 
that there are now about 10,000 Jews scattered in about thirty-three 
agricultural colonies found almost literally from Dan to Beersheba. 
And in the following words he refers to the attitude of the average 
Jerusalem Jew toward the Zionist Movement: 

"While there are a score of prominent Zionists in the Holy Land, 
it may be confidently stated that Zionism means more in Vienna and 
Paris, in London and New York, than it does in Palestine. To the 
pious Orthodox Jews, political Zionism is folly, if it is not blasphemy. 
God, they hold, is to bring back the Jews in his own time and way 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 



313 



without human plan or assistance. To the thousands of Jews who 
earn their daily living in the Holy City, Zionism has no significance 
(j>ne way or the other." — "Religions of Modern Syria and Palestine," 
pp. 321, 322. 

THE CHRISTIANS 

In the early ages of Christianity the apostles and their successors 
founded numerous 
<!;htirches in the 
Greek - speaking 
countries of the 
East — Greece, 
Egypt, Palestine.-, 
Syria, Asia Min- 
or, M a c e d onia, 
Thrace, and Mes- 
opotamia. These 
were called the 
Greek churches in 
contradis- 
tinction to the 
Western churches, 
where the Latin 
tongue prevailed. 
During this peri- 
od the chief cities 
of influence in the 
eastern churches 
were Jerusalem, 
Antioch, and Al- 
exandria. As long 

as Rome was the metropolis of the empire, the bishop of Rome had in- 
disputably the most important see in the church uni- 
Sketch versal. But with the removal of the seat of empire 

from Rome to Constantinople by Constantine, the 
Greek bishop of Constantinople soon became a formidable rival to 
the bishop of Rome. 

This, in connection with the later division of the empire itself into 
eastern and western divisions, offered opportunity for a diversity of 
customs, doctrines, and modes of thinking, which introduced a long 
series of disagreements and quarrels, finally leading to a complete 
ecclesiastical separation. The rivalry between the two chiefs mentioned 



J' 





STazareth Womeu 



314 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

became very keen just after the removal of the seat of empire to Con- 
stantinople, and in the Second General Council (that of Con- 
Ecclesiastical stantinople) the bishop of Constantinople was allowed 
Quarrels . . . 

to sit next to the bishop of Rome; while the Council 

of Chalcedon, in 451, accorded him in his own dioceses honors and 
privileges equal to those of the Roman bishop. In 484 each bishop ex- 
communicated the other. In 588 John, the bishop of Constantinople, 
assumed the title of "Universal Bishop." For this he was condemned 
by Pope Gregory the Great, who wrote him denouncing the title of 
Universal Bishop as "vain," "blasphemous," "infernal," "diabolical," 
and "anti-Christian"; and further said, "I am bold to say, that who- 
ever adopts the title of Universal Bishop has the pride and character 
of anti-Christ." 

This was the Roman Bishop Gregory, who has since been canonized 
by the Catholics. Only two years after the death of Gregory, his 
Separation successor in the bishopric, Boniface III, sought for 

this very blasphemous title of Universal Bishop. He 
applied to Phocas the emperor, who was of infamous character, having 
assassinated his predecessor in order to make room for his own ac- 
cession. This cruel tyrant, disliking the Bishop of Constantinople, 
forbade his using the assumed title, and then granted the request of 
Boniface, conferring upon the Roman bishop and his successors this 
title of Universal Bishop, which has been retained to this day. 

About the time that John assumed the title of Universal Bishop, 
the Latins made an addition to the fifth of the thirty-nine articles of 
the Nicene Creed — the phrase in regard to the Holy Ghost. The orig- 
inal Nicene Creed stated that the Holy Ghost proceeded from the Fa- 
ther, and the Latins now added the phrase, "and the Son." This the 
Greek Church rejected. 

It is not essential for us here to describe the many troubles which 
led to the separation of the Eastern churches from the Western; it is 
sufficient to state that by the eleventh century the rupture was com- 
plete, and all subsequent efforts to reunite them have failed. 

The churches of the East naturally fall under four categories.* In 

the first is the Holy Orthodox Church, or Chiirch of 

Churches ^^^ Orthodox, which claims to be, and doubtless is, the 

lineal representative of the primitive church. In the 

second are those national churches which arose in the fifth and 

*In this classification I tave followed F. J. Bliss in "Modern Eeligions of 
Palestine and Syria." 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 315 

sixth centuries in protest against the decisions of the Councils of 
Ephesus and Chalcedon concerning certain so-called heresies, Thest; 
are the Gregorian, or Armenian, Nestorian, Coptic, Abyssinian, and 
Old Syrian. The third includes such portions of these churches as 
have submitted to Rome and are under the control of the papacy, 
while preserving in a great measure the ritual, disciplines, and customs 
of the churches from which they came. These are known as the Uniate 
bodies, and include the Greek Catholic Melchite Church, the Chaldean 
Church, the Armenian Catholic, Coptic Catholic, Abyssinian Catholic, 
and Syrian Catholic Churches. In the fourth is the Maronite, or on- 
cient national church of the Lebanon. 

Most of the national churches referred to in the second category 
fall outside of our range. The doctrines, ritual, and differences of 
the third, or Uniate bodies, are too complicated to be of interest to 
the average reader; therefore I will restrict my observation of Chris- 
tian religious conditions in Palestine and Syria to a brief consideration 
of the Greek Orthodox and Maronite churches. I might say, how- 
ever, that most of the churches of Palestine and Syria share much in 
common; such as apostolic succession, three ecclesiastical orders, be- 
lief in seven sacraments, baptismal regeneration, confession and absolu- 
tion, and intercession of the Virgin and the Saints. 

THE GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH 

According to Baedeker, the Greek Orthodox Church numbers about 
thirty-four per cent of a total Christian population of 900,000 in 
Palestine and Syria. Like the Roman Church, the Orthodox Church 
maintains seven sacraments, which are baptism, chrism (confirmation), 
the Eucharist (preceded by confession), penance, ordination, mar- 
riage, and extreme unction. But it differs from the Roman Church 
in performing baptism by immersion only; and though it accepts the 
doctrine of transubstantiation the bread is leavened and the wine mixed 
with water, and both elements are given to every one, even children; 
the clergy is permitted to marry, but not after ordination, and only 
once to a virgin; and the anointing with the holy oil is administered, 
not only to the dying, but also to the sick for their restoration to 
health. 

The highest spiritual authority is the patriarch. The church al- 
lows no carved sculpture or moulten images of holy persons or sub- 
jects (except in the Russian churches, where works of sculpture are 
found on the altars), but the representations of Christ, Mary, and the 
saints can be painted or inlaid with precious stones. They reject the 



316 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

doctrine of purgatory, but nevertheless believe in prayers for the dead. 
Relics, graves, and crosses are held sacred, and crossing is considered 
as having a very blessed influence. Their fasts are numerous, and may 
amount to 226 days of the year. All Wednesdays and Fridays are 
fast-days. Meat, eggs, cheese, and milk are forbidden in all fasts. 
The calendar of the church is the Old Style, New- Years falling on 
January 13. The services of the church consist almost entirely in 
outward forms. Mass is of first importance. Instrumental music is 
forbidden. 

In all the Eastern churches baptism is administered to young chil- 
dren, and although the ceremonies differ in details in the various 
Baptism churches they have many points in common, such as 

casting evil spirits out of the child, blessing the water, 
anointing the child with oil, and clothing it with white garments. 

Among the Greeks, baptism may take place either in the church or 
in private houses. That part of the ceremony immediately preceding 
the actual baptism is called "The Making of a Catachumen," of 
which the exorcism of evil spirits is an important part. At this time 
the priest says :* "The Lord God who became incarnate and dwelt 
among men, that he may break thy violence and save mankind, rebukes 
thee, O Satan. ... I conjure thee by God who manifested the 
tree of life and appointed cherubims with a flaming sword to keep and 
preserve it. I conjure thee by him who walked upon the sea as upon 
dry land, who rebuked the storm, whose looks dry up the deeps and 
at whose threats the mountains melt. He now commands thee by us 
to fear and come out and depart from this creature ; and neither to 
return to him nor to be concealed in him, nor to meet him with any 
evil act by day or by night, at the middle of the day, or any other 
hour; biit do thou go to Tartarus appointed for thee, until the great 
day of judgment. . . . Come out and depart from him who has 
been sealed and elected to be a new soldier of Jesus Christ our God. 
I conjure thee by him who walked upon the wings of the wind and who . 
makes his angels a flame of fire. Come out and depart from this crea- 
ture, thou and all thy powers and angels !" 

After three exorcisms the priest breathes on the child's body in 
the manner of a cross, saying, "Dispel from him every evil and pol- 
luted spirit which may lurk in his heart — the spirit of error, and evil, 
and idolatry, and intemperance, and excess, the spirit of lying and of 
all abomination produced by the suggestion of the devil. Grant him 
to be a rational lamb in the holy flock of Christ, an honorable member 

*According to the translation of Dr. Wortabet in "Eeligion in the East," p. 23. 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 317 

of thy church . . . and thus attain the joy of the saints in the 
kingdom." 

"In the Greek Church the service for making Catachumens con- 
cludes with an elaborate catechism or dialogue between the priest and 
the child, represented by his or her godparent. The questions are 
pressed with solemn iteration. Turning the candidate to face the west, 
the priest first asks three times : 'Dost thou renounce the devil and 
all his works, etc?' and then again three times, as if to place the mat- 
ter beyond any possible doubt: 'Hast thou renounced the devil,'" 
After the last answer the priest exclaims : 'Spit on the devil !' which 
command is supposed to be obeyed by the godparent at once. In the 
same way, after the godparent with the child in the arms has been 
turned to face the east, come the questions, each put three times: 
'Dost thou make a covenant with Christ?' and 'Hast thou made a cov- 
enant with Christ?' After the recital of the creed, which is to be 
repeated three times, the last question is asked once more, after which 
follows a short prayer that the child may be made worthy of bap- 
tism." * 

The baptismal service proper begins with prayers and is followed 
by the consecration of the water, at which time the priest prays: 
"Make it a fountain of immortality, granting sanctity, forgiving sins, 
dispelling desires, destroying devils, unapproachable to Satanic pow- 
ers, full of angelic power. . . . We pray that no evil spirt may 
descend with the baptism into it. . . . And do thou, O Lord, 
who has bestowed on us from above regeneration by water and by the 
spirit, come upon this water, and grant the candidate for baptism to 
be changed by his putting off the old man, which is corrupt according 
to the deceitful lusts, and by putting on the new man, which is created 
anew after the image of the Creator, etc." f 

The priest then consecrates the holy oil, by breathing upon it and 
praying that it may become "an unction of immortality, a weapon of 
righteousness, a regeneration of soul and body." He then anoints the 
child in the form of a cross on forehead, breast, back, ears, feet, and 
hands. The child is then taken (entirely naked of course) and bap- 
tized by triune immersion, the infant being passed through the water 
rapidly in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy 
Ghost. The priest then dries the child with a towel, clothes it with 
a white robe, cap, and girdle, and proceeds with a second sacrament of 
confirmation, anointing the child on the forehead, eyes, nose, mouth, 

*" Modern Eeligions of Palestine and Syria," p. 142. 
f'Eeligion in the East," p. 27. 



318 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



ears, breast, hands, and feet with the holy chrism consecrated by the 
patriarch. The child is now confirmed in full fellowship in the church 
and is given communion, a little bit of the sop being placed by a spoon 
on the tongue of the infant. The service terminates with a proccs- 
;sion carrying lighted candles around the church or room where the 
baptismal rite has been performed. 



THE MARONITE CHURCH 

The Maronite Church is the ancient national church of the Leb- 
anon. According to Baedeker 
it numbers about thirty-six 
per cent of the total Christian 
population of Palestine and 
Syria, thus being a little larg- 
er than the Greek Orthodox 
Church. The name is prob- 
ably derived from Maro, a 
Syrian monk, who was contem- 
porary with Chrysostom. The 
Maronites were quite strongly 
established in the Lebanon by 
the end of the seventh century, 
and being a warlike mountain 
people they defended with 
great zeal their political and 
religious independence against 
the Moslems. Since the twelfth 
century they have several times 
submitted to the pope, and they 
are the only Eastern church 
that has given its entire alle- 
giance to Rome. 

In making this union a num- 
ber of concessions were made to the papal church; while, on the other 
liand, Rome has not sought to impose innovations upon their ancient 
customs and practises. Formerly the Maronites also baptized by 
triune immersion — and the practise is not forbidden now — ^but their 
regular form is to pour a handful of water on the child's head three 
times, once for each person of the trinity. Instead of confirmation 
being administered immediately after baptism, as formerly, it is now 
administered according to the Roman custom — to children of seven 



'■' #lk 


^- -1 1 '1 


' i/ '!■* iSi 


1 ■ . ii i 


■ f^- 


%J/ .. 'jI^^^-" •' 


^■|gp^. "^ 


■|^HH|||^yK». "^ 


F^^:'":iii 



A Grecian Costume 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 319 

years old and upwards. With the exception of these innovations 
their rite of baptism is almost identical with the other Eastern 
churches. So also they have adopted the Gregorian calendar, per- 
form mass in full view of the congregation, and use the unleavened 
wafer in the communion; but they have retained a large share of 
their peculiarities, among the number being the Syriac service, in- 
stead of Latin, and the right of marriage for the inferior clergy, 
and, in the main, Eastern services for marriage, burial, and feast- 
days. 

The Maronites in Palestine and Syria are said to number 300,- 
000. As they have obtained but a small foothold in Palestine proper, 
the greater part of this number are crowded into the Lebanon, where 
they form three-fourths of the population. There are about 50,000 
in Beirut alone. 

In the East marriage is not a mere civil contract as it is in the 
United States, but is distinctively religious, all of .the churches re- 
Marriaee garding it as one of their sacraments. In their mar- 

riage ceremonies they differ slightly in certain de- 
tails, but on the whole they are much the same. In Syria and Pal- 
estine weddings are usually solemnized on Sunday. 

Before celebrating a marriage, the priest must ascertain the ex- 
act degree of relationship which may exist between the parties. I 
might say that this is necessary because it is the custom for men to 
choose their brides from among their own relatives, and of course 
degrees of near relationship are prohibited. I had the privilege of at- 
tending both Greek and Maronite weddings. The ceremonies are 
very elaborate, and consume much time. For a description of 
the betrothal, and of the marriage ceremony itself I will quote Fred- 
erick J. Bliss. 

"For the betrothal the Eastern churches use rings. The Greek 
rubric prescribes a gold ring for the man and a silver ring for the 
woman, but as far as I am aware the distinction is no longer made 
in Syria, both rings being of gold. According to the rubric, before 
putting on the rings the priest pronounces the engagement formula 
three times over the man: 'The servant of God, M, is betrothed to 
the handmaid of God, N, in the name, etc.,' signing him each time in 
the form of a cross, touching his forehead with his ring. He then 
pronounces the same formula over the woman (names being inverted), 
signing her forehead with her ring. Finally, he signs the forehead 
of each with two rings held together. This practise is sometimes 
elaborated in Syria as follows : At each repetition of the formula 



320 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

over the man the priest touches his forehead with his ring, then the 
woman's forehead with the same, then as he adds 'In the name of, 
etc.,' he makes the sign of the cross by touching with the ring the 
groom's forehead, breast, right shoulder, and left shoulder. The 
same process, mutatis mutandis, is repeated with the woman's ring. 

The betrothal ends with a long prayer. 

"In the Eastern churches the marriage office is called the corona- 
tion, from the 'crowns' used during the ceremony. Indeed, a Syrian, 
in announcing his marriage, will say, 'I have been crowned for such 
a girl.' The following is the order in the Greek Church, as found in 
Syria and Palestine: Lighted candles being placed in the hands of 
the bridal pair, the priest reads the 128th Psalm, with responses 
to be chanted by the singers. After this follows a species of litany 
not found in the Russian service, which substitutes questions to bride 
and groom regarding their intentions to marry and their freedom 
from other matrimonial engagements. The three prayers that fol- 
low are practically the same in both the Syrian and Russian services. 
The first two prayers are long, and teem with Scriptural references 
to the married state. Among many other things, supplication is 
made that the pair may enjoy the blessings that were granted to 
Abraham and Sarah, to Isaac and Rebecca, to Jacob and Rachel, to 
Joseph and Asenath, to Moses and Zipporah, to Zacharias and Eliza- 
beth; that they may receive the protection extended to Noah in the 
ark, to Jonah in the belly of the whale, to the three children in the 
fire ; and that they may have a chaste life ; love for one another in 
the bond of peace; grace upon their children and grandchildren; 
houses full of corn and wine; all earthly blessings, and an unfading 
crown of glory. 

"The last prayer in part is as follows : 'O thou Holy God who 
formed man from dust, and fashioned the woman from his side, and 
joined her to him for a helpmate, for thus it pleased thy Majesty 
that man should not be alone upon the earth; do thou now, O Lord, 
stretch forth thy hand from thy holy habitation and unite thy servant 
M to thine handmaid N, for from thee proceeds the union of man 
and woman, etc' At the mention of the names in the foregoing 
prayer, the priest hooks together the little fingers of their right 
hands, which so remain during the rest of the service. 

"The priest then takes a wreath of flowers, called the 'crown,' 
and touches the man's head, saying the words : 'The servant of 
God, M, is crowned for the servant of God, N, in the name, etc' 
Then touching the woman's head with the same crown, he says the 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 321 

words a second time ; finally the crown is placed on the man's head 
while the formula is said for the third time. Then follows the 
crowning of the woman 'for the man' in a precisely similar way. Then 
the priest, stretching out his crossed arms toward the heads of the 
pair, announces the blessing of the crowns three times: 'May the 
Lord our God crown them with glory and honor.' Here follows the 
epistle (Eph. 5:20) and the gospel (St. John 2:1). After more 
prayers and some chanting, the congregation repeats the Lord's 
prayer. 

"The priest then takes a cup of wine and blesses it with the fol- 
lowing prayer: 'O God, who created all things by thy power, and 
confirmed the inhabited earth by thy might, and adorned the crown 
of all things created by thyself, bless with a spiritual blessing this 
cup of communion,' etc. This is not the sacramental wine, but the 
name cup of communion ('common cup' or 'shared cup') indicates 
that it symbolizes the spiritual union of man and woman. Of this 
wine both partake three times. Then the priest leads the married 
pair around in a circle [usually around a table several times], while 
the groomsman holds on their crowns from behind. Then, as he takes 
oif their crowns, the priest says, first to the man: 'May God mag- 
nify thee, O bridegroom, as Jacob, and may he bless thee as Isaac, 
and may he give thee increase like Jacob. Live thou in peace, and 
follow in righteousness the commandments of God.' And then to 
the woman: 'And thou, O bride, may God magnify thee as Sarah, 
and may he make thee joyful as Rebecca, and give thee increase 
like Rachel. Be glad with thy husband, and keep the law of chas- 
tity without sin, for this is well pleasing to God.' Eight days after 
the marriage the priest is supposed to take off the crowns with the 
prayer given in the manual, but this practise has now lapsed in 
Syria. 

"In the Maronite Church the betrothal with rings and the 'coro- 
nation,' or marriage ceremony, are united in a single service. A 
formal engagement used to be read at the time of contract, but 
this has now lapsed in the usage. The marriage service begins with 
the blessing of the rings by the priest. In presenting these he says 
to each in turn: 'May the right hand of the Lord be given unto 
thee with grace.' Then follows the blessing of the 'crowns,' which 
may be either wreaths or rosaries. At a Lebanon church wedding 
which I attended, the wreaths were made of natural flowers : roses 
and carnations, with green leaves. After the epistle (Eph. 5:22, 
23) and the gospel (Matt. 19:3-6) follows a prayer in which the 



322 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Lord is besought to bless the crowns to the pair with the blessing 
vouchsafed to Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca, Jacob and 
Rachel. The pair are then crowned with the prayer that they may 
receive the crown of righteousness. The Greek custom of touch- 
ing the bride's forehead with the groom's crown, and vice versa, is 
not observed. A crown is also put on the head of the groomsman, or, 

if he be married, in his hand. 
The bridesmaid is also 
crowned. In t h e subsequent 
exhortation to the bridal pair, 
the groom is urged to love his 
wife; not to insult her; not to 
strike her nor to curse her re- 
lations. The bride is urged 
not to disobey her husband un- 
less he command her to sin; 
not to tell his secrets ; not to 
come between him and his re- 
lations ; not to answer him. 
with bitter words. The priest 
then joins their right hands 
and pronounces the marriage 
formula in the name of the 
Trinity. After various 
prayers and responses the 
priest looses the hands of the 
pair and takes off the crowns, 
saying, 'Thou who didst wear 
the crown of thorns to take 
from us the thorns of sin, re- 
move from this pair these perishable crowns, and place upon them the 
crown that never perishes.' The ceremony closes with another ex- 
hortation and a prayer." * 

PROTESTANT MISSIONARY WORK 

While Protestant churches in Syria are foreign churches, they 
nevertheless come within the range of our present discussion of Re- 
ligious Conditions in Palestine and Syria, for they have exercised a 
great influence in those lands. 

For many years Protestant missionaries have been working in 




Greek Costume 



*" Modern Eeligions of Palestine and Syria," pp. 147-150. 



CONDITIONS IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA 323 

Palestine and Syria, and there are now about thirty-eight societies 
at work, with a total membership of about 10,000. This number is 
very small indeed, but we are safe in saying that it is not in any 
sense a proper gauge for the measurement of those influences which 
have been set to work for the betterment and advancement of the 
people. The traveler emerging from the interior of the country 
can not but be impressed with the unmistakable evidences of progress 
and advancement as he nears the Syrian seacoast. 

Many of the earlier missionaries had considerable opposition to 

ODDosition encounter, especially from the Maronites. This 

church, allied to Rome, partakes of the nature of 

Rome; hence is ready to enact the part of Rome in opposing the 

free circulation and teaching of the Scripture. 

But little work has been effected among Moslems ; in fact, any 
direct effort to this end has been practically impossible, for the dif- 
ficulties in the way are well-nigh insurmountable. Ac- 
Iiittle Moslem j-j.-hti i j. £ ti 

Yfox:^ cording to Moslem law, apostasy from islam m- 

volves death. I am not aware that this extreme pen- 
alty is now carried out officially in Turkey, but it is said to be executed 
in Arabia. But even if Moslems who accept Christianity are not 
condemned to death officially, they are in all practical respects so 
condemned by their fellow Moslems, and sometimes by their own 
relatives, who feel thereby disgraced. Therefore, in practically ever}*" 
case where a Mohammedan has embraced Christianity he has been 
compelled to flee for safety to some other country or place. 

Turkey is a Mohammedan country. While she professes to allow 
rehgious freedom, she does not by this intend to convey the idea that 
people are free to destroy the Mohammedan influence, and the State 
itself, by turning Moslems to some other religion. You may be free 
to hold your own religion in Turkey; but no society making a special 
and open effort to convert Mohammedans would be permitted to op»- 
erate in those lands. 

The chief efforts of the Protestant missionary societies in Pal- 
estine and Syria have been exerted along educational lines ; and it is 

by thus training and enlarging the mental activities 
Educational "^ ., . /. , i i • 

Efforts °* "^"^ natives of the country that their greatest in- 

fluence has been felt. While personally I have been 
convinced that in the effort to keep the favor of the various classes 
of people, and thus build up and enlarge the different educational 
institutions, true evangelical Christianity has been in some meas- 
ure compromised, still it is not my purpose in this chapter to crit- 



324. MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

icize missionary methods, but rather to point out something of what 
is being done. 

But though I do not consider the educational eiforts of Protest- 
ant missionaries as final, I am constrained to regard them as step- 
ping-stones to something better in the future of Pal- 
Benefits estine and Syria, Before the. real truths of Chris- 
tianity can be well understood, appreciated, and wide- 
ly received, there must come an intellectual quickening, an awaken- 
ing — the mind must obtain liberation from ignorance, if not alto- 
gether from all forms of superstition. 

No extensive revival of evangelical religion ever took place among 
a people while wholly ignorant. Foreseeing this fact, God subjected 
his own people, the Jews, to a long course of instruction and dis- 
ciplinary training, in order to fit them for the reception and pro- 
mulgation of his own truth in the primitive days of Christianity. 
The apostle Paul planted the gospel successfully in heathen lands; 
but he directed his efforts to those centers of Grecian culture and 
education where could be found a people capable of understanding 
the high order of truth which he had to present. The Revival of 
Learning preceded the reformation in Western Europe. 

The secret of the successful revivals of religion in our own coun- 
try lies in the fact that the people have such a conception of God 
and of his Word that they can be made to feel their sins. I am 
aware that superior education often tends to exalt the individual, 
injuring the influence of Christianity over him; but, on the other 
hand, experience has taught me that where the mind is wholly dark- 
ened it is a hundred times more difficult to get the true light of 
Christ into the soul. Therefore, viewed from this standpoint, a good 
work has been accomplished in Palestine and Syria. And chief among 
the accomplishments has been the translation, publication, and cir- 
culation of the greatest of all books — the Bible — in the language 
of the country — Arabic. 



PERSONAL 
MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES* 



Stepping ashore from the steamer in the harbor of Beirut, Syria, 
Sept. 4, 1912, we made our first entry into the Holy Land. This' 
section of Syria is not, and never was, a part of the Land of Prom- 
ise, which was situated in Pal- 
estine proper ; but if sacred as- 
sociations render any place 
"holy," the entire country of 
Syria is entitled to the desig- 
nation: for patriarchs and 
pious kings, prophets and 
apostles of our Lord, have 
lived, traveled, written, and 
preached, throughout the 
length and breadth of this 
land. 

What a variety of thoughts 
canie crowding in upon my 
mind — mem- 
ories of scenes 
of the early 
days enacted here in this very 
country! And here is the 
identical land spread out be- 
fore me with its cities and vil- 
lages, mountains and valleys, 
orchards and vineyards, fruits 
and flowers, everywhere re- 
minding us of the thousands of incidents which from early childh;bod 
our minds have associated with the Holy Land. Here lies Beirut, 



Retrospective 
View 







^^wJ"^^' 


: J \ 




d 


o 



A Native Porter 



*Personal experiences might easily fill a volume of themselves, therefore 
lack of space prevents more than brief reference to a few incidents. And as the 
various experiences related in this chapter occurred irregularly, the subject- 
matter is not always arranged in exact chronological and systematic order. 

327 



328 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




"THE GRASS OF THE FXEI^D' 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 329 

"the flower of Syria," Oriental in most respects ; many of its streets 
narrow, winding, and in some places vaulted over, presenting dead 
walls on each side without relief or ornament of any kind, aside from 
the small shops with which it is lined. Through these narrow pas- 
sageways crowd donkeys, horses, camels, many strange-looking peo- 
ple clad in various costumes, and porters carrying large boxes and 
bundles on their backs. Back of the city lies a broad plain contain- 
ing vast olive-orchards, the largest in all Syria; beyond, dotted with 
villages, and terraced in orchards and vineyards, the mountains of 
the Lebanon rise, tier above tier, until the mighty summit of old 
Sunnin vaults itself against the deep-blue sky. 

Among such scenes as these Christ retired to pray, or led his dis- 
ciples forth that he might by the aid of parables drawn from nature 

give them instruction in truth divine. To me, the very 
Feelings atmosphere seemed to breathe a spirit of devotion, and 

I delighted to roam among orchards of figs and olives, 
or wend my way through terraced vineyards to some isolated hill- 
top, where, inspired by the scenes and scenery of the Holy Land, I 
might be free to meditate on the divine Word and commune with my 
Lord. This is an experience never to be forgotten. 

In fancy I again stand amid those scenes : At almost every turn 
I am reminded of some Biblical incident. Here by the wayside stands 

a sycamore-tree — not the tall, smooth-barked variety 
Illustrations such as we have in America, but a tree with large 

branches spreading out only a few feet above the 
ground — reminding me at once of the little man Zaccheus. There is 
a large Kliarub-tree with its bean-like pods — the so-called "husks" 
which the swine did eat, and with which the famished prodigal desired 
to fill his belly. And what is that large load which the little donkey 
is bearing down the hillside toward the village.? Only some of the 
dried "grass of the field" on its way to the public bake-ovens, to be 
used as fuel in the baking of bread. That company of men and 
beasts with strange, stick-like plows are on their way to the fields 
to prepare soil and sow grain; for as the people all live in villages 
they must literally "go forth to sow," as in Bible times. Even this 
rocky, winding thoroughfare up the hillside is suggestive of the olden 
times, when Isaiah proclaimed, "Cast up the highway ; gather out 
the stones ;^^ for I observe that these farmers ordinarily do just the 
reverse — they gather the stones out of their vineyards and cast them 
into the paths. On dark, moonless nights such trails as these em- 
phasize the need of having a 'lamp unto our feet, and a light unto our 



330 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



path.' In fact, almost every custom and practise referred to in the 
Bible can still be seen in this land. 

Upon arriving in the East, my first deep impressions were those 
that I have just described — retrospective and devotional; next, my 
attention was directed chiefly to the character of the 
present inhabitants. Here were a variety of races, 
clad in different costumes, mingling in the same com- 
munity, but to a great extent entirely separate and dissimilar in 



Character of 
Inhabitants 




Domestic Life 



A Villagre Bake-Oven 

ideals and religion. These always form an object of interest and 
study to the new missionary or traveler. 

Domestic life and customs are also matters of special interest, 
presenting, as they do, modes of thinking and habits of life peculiar 
to us. But while there are customs which are to a 
great extent common to the country and to be found 
among all classes of its inhabitants, certain other habits and practises 
are not uniform, being based upon different views of life. Thus do- 
mestic life among Mohammedans, who practise polygamy and concu- 
binage, must of necessity differ from the familj^^ life and ideal of the 
Christians, who are strict monogamists. But as Syria is a Moslem 
country, and has for ages been dominated by that element, there is no 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



331 





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332 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

doubt that Moslems have had a direct influence, in some respects, in 
modifying the views of life and the social relations in all classes. 

This may be il||Astrated by ,i:he relation of the sexes. While theire 
is no doubt that t^e iSea of women's inferiority has always befen com- 
mon to the entire East, the extremes to which sonje 
Women customs pertaining to this subject have been carried 

are doubtless directly traceable to Moslem influences. In 
addressing a Mohammedan, one must never mention or make an inquiry 
concerning his wife or other female members of his family. Their 
women are secluded in their harems and are private property — not to 
be seen or talked about by others. It is this sentiment that enforces 
the Mohammedan requirement that their women must be heavily 
sheeted and veiled when appearing in public ; so that, in the estima- 
tion of a foreigner, they resemble a bundle of bedclothes. 

These influences extend beyond Moslems. In certain villages 
where Western influence is little felt, and where Mohammedan influ- 
ence prevails. Christian women also are veiled. And 
Influence among native Christians generally we find considerable 

reluctance in regard to mentioning the females of their 
families. For example, one day while in conversation with a Chris- 
tian, Mr. Salim, the owner of our house in Shweifat, he had occasion 
to mention some woman, whom he designated as "the daughter of my 
cousin." We were perplexed to know who was meant, and when we 
inquired further he repeated, several times, — "the daughter of my 
cousin." Finally, seeing we could not understand, he stated that he 
meant his wife. Of course this tendency is not so pronounced in 
villages affected by Western influences as it is under other conditions. 
Under the old regime a man absent from home never wrote to his 
wife, but to his son, regardless of his age ; and in some cases, if a man 
had no son he addressed his letter to a fictitious one. And if he met 
some one direct from home, he would inquire about everybody else, 
without even mentioning his wife, though she was known to be sick. 
This idea of the privacy and seclusion of women results in the gen- 
eral absence of what we term courtship. Young, unmarried people do 

not keep company with each other as they do in the 
Marriage . 

Arrangements West, and marriages are arranged by the parents or 

relatives, just as they were in the days of Abraham. 

This standard is a peculiar one to us, but it prevails in the East, and 

must continue until Christian teaching and training has resulted in 

the elevation of the marriage institution. 

The women of the East have an intense desire to become the mother 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



333 



of sons. But the birth of a daughter is often looked upon as a calam- 
Children ^^^" ^^^J times we saw this manifested while among 

them. At the birth of a daughter, "the husband and 
father refuses to see his child, or speak to the mother; and the friends 
and relatives, particularly the females, upbraid the innocent sufferer, 
and condole with the unkind husband as if he were very badly treated. 
Worse than this, in those communities where divorce is permitted, 
this is often the only reason assigned by the brutal husband for send- 




Native Women ■Washing- 

ing away his wife." On different occasions my wife expostulated with 
the women concerning this unnatural custom, but they only smiled 
and let it pass. On account of this high appreciation of children the 
people converse freely on subjects which we, in our conception of 
modesty, never mention. This is done in the same terms as in Bible 
times. 

Another peculiar custom is that the father sometimes takes the 
name of his first-born son. "Tannus, the father of the infant Be- 

sharah, for example, is no longer Tannus, but Abu-lie- 
CMldren sharah, and this not merely in common parlance, but 

in legal documents and on all occasions. It is, in fact, 
no longer respectful to call him Tannus. So, also, the mother is ever 
afterward called -Ew-Besharah, mother of Besharah. And still more 
absurd, when a man is married and has no son, the world gives him, 



334 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



one by a courtesy peculiarly Oriental, and then calls him by his sup- 
posed son's name. Even unmarried men are often dignified by the 
honorable title of Abu somebody or other, the name bestowed being 
decided by that which he previously bore. Thus Elias becomes Abu- 
Nasif, Butrus is called Abu-Salim, and so on, according to the estab- 
lished custom of naming first-born sons." * 

Religious conditions next claimed our attention, on account of 
their close connection with our proposed missionary work; not so 
much a general survey of the religions and doctrinal 
beliefs of the people, such as we have portrayed in the 
preceding chapter, but religion in its practical bear- 
ing on the life and character of the people. In my opinion, the most 
important thing in this respect is the manifest lack almost everywhere 



Bellgious 
Conditions 



> 








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"^'^^'Sii^^ ^Jiiit^mti4; 


-""^7^*****^^ „ ,„ , 


ss\ 


^,^;:-<'..v ,.■ .■ . ..M 







A Fart of Shweifat, Mount Iiebanon 

of the conception of the near relationship of morality and religion. I 
am not saying that there are not moral people there; but a clear con- 
ception of the fact that religion and morality must go together is 
strangely lacking. There, people can be very sinful and immoral, and 
intensely religious at the same time, without special notice being taken 
of the inconsistency. Among Moslems, who are particularly given 
to the greatest manifestations of religious devotion, there is no idea 
that these prayers are or should be connected with a strong moral 



"'The Land and the Book," p. 178. 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



335 



feeling. On the other hand, they are rather inclined to suspicion any 
one especially given to prayer — their prayers. They have a proverb 
like this : "If your neighbor has made a pilgrimage to Mecca once, 
watch him; if twice, avoid his society; if three times, move into an- 
other street." 

Even Christians are not accounted Christians because of any per- 




Our Home and Place of Worship in Schweifat 

sonal acceptance of Christ or experience of conversion. All the 
Christian sects of the East baptize infants and, holding the doctrine 
of baptismal regeneration, all these are, by this act, constituted Chris- 
tians. Therefore all baptized people are thereafter accounted Chris- 
tians, irrespective of moral character. In accordance with this stand- 
ard, the report would come to us, "A Christian killed a Druse this 
morning" ; or, perhaps, "A Christian shot a Mohammedan." In 
other words, the term Christian is not limited, in the Bible sense, to 
those who are holy, or even moral, but designates that portion of the 
community which professes belief in Christ. 

Our first stopping-place in Syria was in the village of Suke-el- 
Gharb, situated high up on the western slope of the 
Lebanon mountains. Here we remained about one 
month, during which time, being the summer-resort sea- 
son, we had only a few services. As soon as the weather got a little 



Religious 
Services 



336 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

cooler we moved down to the village of Shweifat, where we made our 
permanent place of residence while in Syria. Here we began regular 
meetings, holding part of the services in a large room in our house and 
the remainder in the schoolroom of the native school already referred to. 

As we were unable to preach in the Arabic language, it was neces- 
sary to have an interpreter. After uttering a sentence or two, the 
Translation speaker would hesitate and give opportunity for the 

translator to deliver it to the people. This method 
seemed quite awkward to me at first, but I soon got accustomed to it, 
and could preach with comparative ease. In the various places wherti 
we held meetings in the different countries we had to have translation 
into about six or seven languages. In Cairo, Egypt, and in Bucharest, 
Roumania, I was obliged to have two translators at the same time ; one 
giving it in one language, and the other in another. 

The effectiveness of preaching in this manner depends, to a great 
extent, upon the ability and character of the interpreter. The per- 
sonality, religious zeal, and fervency of the preacher do not trans- 
late as do the words which he utters ; therefore a great deal of the effect 
is lost unless the translator is also a spiritual person and in full sym- 
pathy with the character of the message. We were very fortunate in 
that we were usually able to secure good, saved translators. 

The greatest difficulty that I felt at first, however, was not the 
method of translation by which the sermon must be delivered, but was 
in knowing the exact needs of the people, what to 
Darkness preach, and how to preach in order to be effective in 

reaching them. We are not conscious of the important 
place language fills in our relations with men until we are placed in a 
foreign land where, in this respect, a gulf exists between us and the 
people. And this difficulty is complicated a dozenf old by the differences 
of religious thought and training, which I have already mentioned. I 
began preaching, as to sinners in America, that people should come to 
Christ; but I soon learned that there was no sinner-class there — these 
were all Christians, and had no consciousness of being away from 
Christ. I then preached that Christianity is a real thing, that we must 
be born again and have a new heart; but when I gave the first altar- 
call nearly the whole congregation came forward, praying for a new 
heart. I thought this was the beginning of a tremendous revival; but 
I soon learned that the majority had little conception of a definite, in- 
dividual experience of salvation; that they were in the habit (some of 
them, at least) of praying, "Lord, give me a new heart." It meant so 
little to them. I wanted them to pray for a new heart, but I also 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 337 

wanted them to get it, and then pray another kind of prayer. It is 
difficult indeed to get them, with their conception of Christianity, to 
see that without an individual salvation they are not Christians at all, 
in the Bible sense, but are lost ; when, however, they realize and feel this 
condition, it is possible for them to get real salvation. 

Another difficulty we met in that country was a different attitude 
toward the Bible itself. The Greek Orthodox and some other Chris- 
tion sects do not manifest hostility to the Book, as do 
Toward the ^^^ Maronites, who are allied to the papacy, but their 

Bible attitude towards its teaching differs from ours. In 

Protestant lands we have the idea that the Bible is the 
supreme word of God and the rule of faith and practise ; but the Greek 
Orthodox, for example, hold that the standard of religious authority is 
the Bible, as interpreted by tradition. But, as in the case of the Phar- 
isees of old, their additions and forms have accumulated until they have 
"made the word of God of none effect by their traditions." The clear, 
definite, doctrinal teaching which I gave them, textually, was at first 
largely lost, simply because any presentation of the Bible other than 
their own traditional way does not obligate their conscience. When I 
held certain plain teachings of the Word before some of them, they 
freely admitted the requirements, but apparently without any idea in 
the world of being obliged to conform to that standard ; their final word 
was, "But our custom is this way." 

I shall not take the space here to describe the character of the 
preaching necessary to secure the desired end, since this will be con- 
sidered in the following chapter on Missionary Methods ; but I am 
glad to say that after a while some became really conscious of their 
condition and need and obtained clear experiences of salvation, and 
later were made to understand the truth of entire sanctification, and 
pressed into the experience. Although the women of that country 
are exceedingly fond of wearing jewelry, those who came right out 
into the truth were ready to lay it aside and dress plainly, according 
to the Bible standard. Thus a little band of happy saints was 
raised up. 

With all the difficulties just mentioned, we found it comparatively 
easy to preach and practise any of the Bible truths which were not 

sufficiently distinctive as to require in their accep- 
Difficulties of . j n -j. x. t j? j.t- t • 

Baptism tance a denmte breakmg-away from the religious cus- 

toms and practises of the people. For example, a 
Greek Orthodox might become awakened and obtain a real exper- 
ience of salvation, and it would not occasion a great deal of com- 



338 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



ment; he would still be counted as a Greek. But when we began to 
preach the Bible standard concerning baptism of believers (adults), 
and they were convinced that we intended to practise just what we 
preached, this proved to be the offense of the cross. As already 
stated, baptism, in their conception, is the thing that constitutes 
people Christians, and they term unbaptized people heathen; so when 
one of their number decides to be baptized in the Bible way he is 
generally opposed by all his relatives, for the act reflects upon them 
as being only heathen. Therefore there was a strong public senti- 




Oiir Pirst Baptismal Candidates in Syria (Five Iiadies in Center) 



ment against us in this respect, wherever we attempted to follow the 
Word of God concerning baptism. And I regret to say that some 
who professed a higher standard of grace than their countrymen al- 
lowed themselves to be so far influenced by public sentiment as to fail 
to openly encourage and support this truth, knowing that to do so 
might affect or injure their own interests. However, all those who 
obtained salvation under our labors willingly responded, to the best 
of their ability, to the truth concerning baptism ; and as many as 
were able to do so were baptized. Praise the Lord! 

The great majority of the people never saw an adult baptized, 
and have no idea of how it is done. All the baptism they know is 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 339 

that rite which is administered to the little naked babes, as I have 
heretofore described. This lack of understanding sometimes occasions 

embarrassing incidents. One time when Brother 
Inci^nts Ouzounian was preaching concerning the necessity of 

baptism, a sister became very much burdened over 
the matter. But it appeared to be very difficult for her to decide to 
obey; and she kept saying, "How can I ever do it?" "How can I 
ever do it.?" Some one tried to encourage her, saying, "Yes, 3'ou 
can do that all right." She then said, "How can I take oif all of my 
clothes and have that man baptize me.''" When she was informed that 
such was not necessary, but that she could go and be baptized while> 
dressed, she was willing. 

I also had some amusing personal incidents concerning baptism, 
occasioned by the lack of understanding of our manner of performing 
this rite. At one place I was requested to officiate at the baptismal^ 
ceremony. I told them that as I had no extra clothes with me they 
would have to supply me some, and if they would do that, I would do 
the baptizing. A brother quickly replied that that would be easy — 
that I could just wrap a bath-towel around me. I objected to this; 
whereupon he offered something better — I could wind a sheet around 
me, and hold it with one hand and baptize with the other one. Still 
I objected. When he found that I required a suit of clothes, it was 
obtained. 

In another place, while traveling with Brother Ouzounian, the 
request was made that I do the baptizing, and as I could not speak 
with any one in the congregation, I requested Brother Ouzounian 
to ask them if they could furnish me proper clothing. They quickly 
informed him that they could. I instructed him to inquire further; 
but when they informed him that they had a special suit which they 
would use for this purpose, no further inquiries were made. When 
we arrived at the place of baptism, and the sisters had passed around 
to the opposite side of the hill to prepare themselves for baptism, 
the brethren opened a suit-case and took out that special suit. I do 
not know how to express my surprise on looking at it. It was made 
of very heavy duck, pa jama style with attached feet, and large 
enough for a big man. The only way to enter it was from the top. 
After putting it on I thought that it would fall off if I dropped 
my arms down, for I felt certain that the shoulder-straps would not 
stay up ; but the brethren assured me that it would be all right. But 
as I hesitated to run the risk, they found some twine, which they 
used in tying the shoulders of the suit together in front and behind. 



340 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Dressed in this huge outfit I felt awkward indeed, but managed 
to get along very well until I reached the last candidate, who, being 
^ tall man, was more difficult to immerse. In the effort, I leaned so 
:far over that the suit filled with water from the top, and the worst 
part of all was — it would not leak! After considerable difficulty I 
ifinally managed to get out on the shore, and was glad when this par- 
ticular service ended. 

Before we reached Egypt, enroute to Syria, we were not aware 
of any work in that country upon which we could depend as being 




Crowd at a Baptismal Service in Egypt 

altogether reliable. We had heard of Bro. G. K. Ouzounian, of Cairo, 
but had no way of knowing his character and reliability. But when 
! we reached Alexandria a number of people who were 

^ffVTJt brought out under his labors met us at the steamer, 

and we had meetings with them that day. When we 
reached Cairo and met Brother Ouzounian, we felt that he was a 
true man of God. He urged us to return to Egypt on a special 
■evangelistic tour, therefore we determined to do so if God willed. So 
in the month of February, 1913, we sailed from Beirut to Alexandria, 
and there held services for five weeks. Brother Ouzounian was with 
us, and a good work was accomplished. The church there was doubled 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



341 



A Personal 
Incident 



in numbers, encouraged and strengthened in the truth, and I had the 
privilege of baptizing sixteen in the Mediterranean Sea. Their place 
of worship being inadequate, another good place on First Khedivt 
Street was secured for a period of two years, with privilege of having 
it longer. 

We accompanied Brother Ouzounian to Cairo, where we had meet- 
ings for about three weeks, which also resulted in much good to the 
church. At the close of these meetings we had obtained sufficient ac- 
quaintance with the work already begun by Brother Ouzounian to 
know that it could be depended on as a real work of God. The work 
in Egypt has already begun to develop some new gospel workers, as 
John Lazar, of Cairo, and Mosad Armanious, of Assiout. 

One evening while in Cairo, my wife, Sister Ouzounian, and an- 
other sister were out walking, when they noticed a young man stand- 
ing on the street, reading what appeared to be a 
New Testament. Sister Ouzounian stopped and 
asked him what he was reading, and found that it 
was a Bible. He was a student in one of the colleges in Cairo, sand 
as he understood English well, my wife soon engaged in conversation 
with him. The young 
man was in great 
trouble. He was spir- 
itually inclined, and a 
believer in the Bible, 
but the French pro- 
fessors in the college 
were atheistical, and 
urged the modern the- 
ory of evolution upon 
the students in such a 
way that it had a ten- 
dency to undermine 
all their faith in di- 
vine revelation. A 

few days previous to this, one of his fellow students, in despair, went 
out to the pyramids and committed suicide. Wife arranged for him 
to meet me and have a long conversation on the subjects involved in 
his difficulties. The result was that his mind was finally cleared from 
many of these distressing perplexities. We gave him a copy of the 
book "Evolution of Christianity," hoping thus to build up his faith 
in the divine nature and origin of our holy religion, and he received 




An JIg-yptiau Street Scene 



342 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Work in 
Boumauia 



so much benefit therefrom that he undertook the task of translating 
it into the Arabic language for the benefit of other students, and 
especially of Mohammedans, who reject Christianity without un- 
derstanding the fundamental principles upon which it is based. 

The following summer Brother Ouzounian and I made a special 
missionary trip to the Balkan States. Through the literary efforts 
of Brother Ouzounian, work has already been begun in Adrianople, 

Turkey; Gumuldjina, Turkey 

(now Bulgaria) ; Bucharest, 

Roumania, and 

other places. 

Some of these 

places we desired to visit, for 

many earnest requests had 

been received from them. 

The Balkan War having re- 
duced Adrianople to extrem- 
ity and scattered the saints 
there, and the railway service 
between Bucharest and Adri- 
anople being suspended, we 
were unable to go there at 
that time. Gumuldjina was 
also entirely cut off by the 
war, so that we could not even 
get mail through ; therefore we 
were barred from there also. 
But we were enabled to accom- 
plish a very good work in 
Bucharest, Roumania. A 
small work had already been 
begun there, and was in charge of Bro. M. G. Asian. The Lord en- 
abled us to do much to establish the work on the straight Bible line; 
in fact, the Lord really prepared the way for us in certain respects. 
Prior to our coming, two different individuals, would-be preachers, 
had come there and attempted to impose themselves on the work, 
but they were rejected. One night during our meetings Brother 
Asian's daughter-in-law came forward for healing, and God instantly 
healed her ; whereupon she gave testimony that one year before God 
gave her a vision in which two men appeared successively and at- 
tempted to open her eyes, but their efforts resulted in making her 




Native Egryptiau Woman and Baby 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



343 



Complications 



more blind; after which two men dressed in white apparel appeared 
together, and the Lord said, "These are my servants, and by them 
the work of God will be established here." She asserted that when 
we came she knew that we were the last two whom she had seen in 
the vision. This vision occurred before we made any arrangements 
to go there. 

But we also had certain difficulties to encounter there. The first 
thing, the government required vaccination, and as 
there was no way to avoid it I had to submit. But 
it had a very bad effect upon me, making me sick for several days. 
And Roumania is not open for 
free religious propaganda. 
The Orthodox Church is in the 
ascendency there, and its influ- 
ence in the government hinders 
other movements. I was in- 
formed that the founder of the 
Baptist work in Bucharest was 
banished from the country. So 
we could not prosecute our 
work freely, and no public ad- 
vertising was done. 

One day an officer came to 
the home of Brother Asian, 
where we were stopping, and I 
soon inferred that he desired 
us, but as neither he nor 
Brother Asian could speak 
with me he was obliged to wait 
a few minutes until Brother 
Ouzounian returned from a 
trip down-town. When Broth- 
er Ouzounian arrived, he was 
informed that we were wanted 

by the government; "however," the officer said, "it is not you that 
we are after, but we want that Englishman" — mistaking me for one 
of that nation. We accompanied the officer to the government house, 
where we were relieved of our passports and instructed to return 
the next day. This we did. The leading official made numerous in-* 
quiries concerning me, and could scarcely be persuaded to believe 
that I understood English only. After a while, in answer to a tel- 




A Boumanian Boy 



344 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

ephone call, another officer entered, whom I supposed to be the 
Chief of Police. These two officials consulted at length concerning 
me, examined a number of papers in their possession, and finally 
opened a large book which I could see from a distance contained the 
photographs of different men, each man in three positions. I un- 
derstood that this was a "rogue's gallery" and that they were try- 
ing to identify me with some of those characters. After a while we 
were released. 

Our baptismal service there was appointed for the last Sunday 
of the meeting. This service being public, I felt sure that if the 
government heard of it we would be summoned at once. On Mon- 
day morning we went down-town immediately, bought our tickets 
to Constantinople, and secured our berths on the steamer on the 
Black Sea; but the ship would not sail until the next day. In ac- 
cordance with my anticipations, another officer came for us on Mon- 
day afternoon; but when he was convinced that we were really going 
to leave the country, he made a memorandum of our tickets, time of 
train, date of sailing, and returned without us. There were also 
many other annoying things which I will not attempt to describe. 

The gravity of our situation on this trip in the Levant at that 
particular time was sometimes relieved by incidents of another na- 
ture. While traveling on the train between Adana 
Asia Minor ^^^ Tarsus, in Asia Minor, we sat in a seat facing 

an old Kurd from the interior. He was with a party 
of Moslems making a pilgrimage to Mecca, and was going to Mer- 
slna to take steamer by the Red Sea route. These men were heavily 
armed, according to the custom of the natives In those parts. They 
were talking Turkish, and Brother Ouzounian was constantly trans- 
lating to me in English their remarks. The old man had never been 
on a railroad train (perhaps had never seen one before), and when 
we started out of Adana he looked frightened, and began to ex- 
claim, "See! see! the mountains are running away!" His compan- 
ions tried to console him, assuring him that everything was all 
right. A little further along we passed some trees that were close 
to the railroad, and again he exclaimed, "The trees are running; 
I see them!" Again his fellow travelers quieted him. Soon we 
crossed a steel bridge, the sides of which came up close by the win- 
dows of the car. As the train dashed through this structure, the 
old man jumped, his eyes nearly starting from their sockets, and 
shouted, "What was that?" "That was a bridge," said his com- 
panions. "Well, It went," said he, with a sigh of relief; and they 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 34.5 

laughingly replied, "Yes, it went." Said Brother Ouzounian, 
"About the only thing these poor, ignorant fellows know is to fight 
and kill men." 

The foregoing is a good example of the ignorance that prevails 
in the interior of the country. As ignorance is the mother of super- 
In t ti stition, we have an explanation of the widespread 

practises o f divination, incantation, fortune-telling 
and similar fooleries prevalent in the East. Impostors of this sort 
are numerous. We saw them making rude diagrams in the sand, 
meanwhile muttering cabalistic adjurations. By this and other 
methods they profess to be able to locate stolen goods, discover 
thieves, etc. 

This reminds me of an amusing incident related by Dr. Thomson. 
One of these conjuring impostors, who had acquired considerable 
reputation in his line, became a Protestant, and re- 
Discovering a nounced his former practises. This man was wont to 
relate some of his former experiences in that profes- 
sion. "Once he was returning home through the Huleh, and fotiiid 
a poor woman at a mill on the upper Jordan beating herself in de- 
spair because some one had stolen her meal-bag. There were Arab 
tents not far off, as Arabs are professional thieves, he suspected that 
one of them had the missing bag. Calling them all before him, he 
told them his suspicion, and declared that he had an infallible test by 
which to detect the thief, and to it they must submit, or he would 
lodge a complaint against them with the governor. They all stoutly 
denied the charge, and offered to submit to his test. He then cut 
bits of straw, equal in number to that of the Arabs, all of the same 
length, and kept the measure himself, giving a bit to each of them. 
'Now,' said he, in his most imposing manner, 'keep these bits till 
the morning each one hy himself; then bring them to me, and I will 
measure them ; if any one of you has the bag, his stick will have grown 
longer hy so much' Of course, each hid his splinter in his bosom, 
and in the morning one was found as much too short as he said it 
would grow while in the possession of the thief. The credulous ras- 
cal, not doubting but that it would actually grow, had broken off 
just the length which he supposed had been added during the night. 
When thus detected, he confessed the theft, and restored the poor 

woman her bag." * 

After Brother Ouzounian and I returned from our missionary 

* "The Land and the Book," p. 220. 



346 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



Trip to 
Cyprus 



trip in the Balkans we made a trip to the near-by island of Cyprus. 
We were accompanied by my wife and son, Gerald. The island is one 
of the largest in the Mediterranean, and its history is lost in remote 
antiquity. When Paul and Barnabas left Antioch on 
their first missionary tour their first stop was in 
Cyprus (Acts 13:4). They preached at Salamis, 
and then journeyed through the island to Paphos, on the southwest 
coast, where judgment was pronounced on Elymas the sorcerer. 

We landed at 
Larnaca, and pro- 
ceeded by carriage 
to Nicosia, the cap- 
ital, situated in the 
interior of the 
island. Here we met 
Brother Brousilian, 
a faithful brother 
in the Lord. Our 
objective point was 
Kyr e n i a , on the 
north coast. When 
we reached Nico- 
sia, however, we 
found a letter from Kyrenia warning us not to come there, as the 
Greeks would stone us. Brother Ouzounian preached in this place 
a few years before, and the turbulent Greeks raised a great persecu- 
tion and attempted to kill him. After praying over the matter we 
decided to go, and we had some interesting and profitable services 
there, and were not injured either. Some boys on the street threw 
stones at Brother Brousilian and reproached him for bringing the 
missionaries there. Here we formed an acquaintance with some able 
brethren whom we trust will be much used of God in the future in 
establishing his true work in Cyprus. The Greek judge of that dis- 
trict, having read the "Revelation Explained," and "Evolution of 
Christianity," given him by Brother Ouzounian on the former visit, 
was desirous of seeing me. He enjoyed the meetings very much. 

We returned to Nicosia, where we held a few services, then leav- 
ing Brother Ouzounian to continue the meetings for a while before 
sailing direct to Egypt, we returned to our home near Beirut. 

We had some definite answers to prayer while in Cyprus. At that 




Kyrenia, Cyprus 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



347 



Answers to 
Prayer 



time we were all very short of means. We made our request known 
unto God and he marvelously supplied us with a suf- 
ficient amount for our present need, even laying it 
upon the hearts of some who did not receive much of 
our teaching to give us of their means. 

But what appeared to us to be the most wonderful was the heal- 
ing of little Gerald. When wife and I left Nicosia we came by car- 
riage to Larnaca, expecting to sail the same day. When we arrived, 
we found that the steamer was one day late, so we went to a hotel. 
Next morning Gerald was broken out with something that appeared 
worse than the measles, huge, red blotches having raised up over his 
body; and it showed so plainly on his face that we feared we should 
not be permitted to embark on the ship, as they are very strict in, 
regard to receiving diseased persons. To be rejected would be a 
calamity to us, for at that time of the year the sailings direct to 
Beirut took place only monthly, and our money was altogether tool 
little to admit of such delay; in fact, we only had a little more than 
€nough to pay our 
fares to Beirut. We 
prayed earnestly. 
When I went to the 
offices to buy our 
tickets I would not 
permit Gerald to 
accompany me, lest 
they refuse to issue 
passage for us ; but 
when I returned 
with the tickets 
Gerald's face was 
already cleared up 
and white. Praise 
the Lord! We had no difficulty whatever in embarking. But that 
night on the steamer he was again taken very bad, but being in a 
stateroom by ourselves, no one knew of the trouble. There we laid 
hold on God, and rebuked the affliction in the name of the Lord Je- 
sus, and Gerald was completely healed. How thankful we were ! When 
we arrived in Beirut we were permitted to land without any trouble, 
for the disease was gone, and never returned afterwards. "Bless the 
Lord, O my soul ; and all that is within me, bless his holy name. Bless 
the Lord, O my soul, and forget not all his benefits: who forgiveth 



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Movmtaiu Castle of St. Hilariou 



348 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



all thine iniquities; who healeth all thy diseases" (Psa. 103:1-3). 
In ^11 our travels God graciously protected us from serious in- 
jury by accident or otherwise. The most dangerous trouble of that 
kind occurred while we were at Shweifat. One day 
Gerald and I made a trip to Beirut. On the return 
at night our carriage started late, and soon it was 
very dark. The carriage-driver was very reckless, and was drink- 
ing. He would run his horses at a frightful speed, then stop along 
the way, at intervals, and go into some little shop and drink again. 



A Dangerous 
Accident 




At that time I could not speak Arabic well 
enough to remonstrate with him. Entering 
the Lebanon, the country is mountainous, and the carriage-road 
winds around the slopes, being built up on the hillsides, in some places 
sustained by perpendicular walls. Gerald and I occupied the rear seat 
of the carriage, but Gerald was fast asleep. As we were rounding 
a curve in the road on the hillside, the horses traveling at a high rate 
of speed, the outside horse, being unable to keep up, was crowded 
close to the edge and, seeing its danger, made an effort to stop, but 
the other horse continued; this act plunged them directly forward 
over the precipice. The moment I realized that the horses were go- 
ing over, I grasped Gerald with one hand and made one leap out into 
the darkness. I landed at a point about fifteen or twenty feet below 
the road, and Gerald passed on over me and struck a few feet further 
down. Alarmed at such a rude awakening, the little fellow cried 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



349 



loudly. I felt my way to him as quickly as possible. The carriage 
went on down to the bottom of the ravine, and, turning upside down, 
smashed itself on the rocks. My lips were cut, hand and wrist bleed- 
ing, and back bruised slightly, but I knew at once that I was not 
badly hurt. Gerald was not injured at all. Some people came with a 
light and helped us up, and we reached home an hour later. 

Next day we went to view the scene of the wreck, and then I was 
made more conscious than ever of God's preserving and protecting 
care. Had the carriage proceeded four or five rods further before 
the accident, it would have fallen over a perpendicular wall built up 
from the valley below. The particular place where we struck down below 
was the very best spot there — the only one free from stones. And had I 




I^ebanon I^aborexs Betuminir 

sprung from the side of the carriage on which I sat, instead of from* 
the opposite side, I would have landed directly on a large rock below. 

The Lebanon is sometimes disturbed by threatened armed con- 
flicts between the Christians and the Druses. In the past this has; 
sometimes ripened into civil war. The worse conflict: 
Disturbances °^ ^^^^ kind took place in 1860, at which time many 

thousands of the Christians were slain by the Druses. 
Ordinarily they live side by side peaceably, but any unusual occur- 
rence is liable to occasion a sudden uprising. 

Feuds are of frequent occurrence, and trouble between individual 
Christians and Druses is sometimes taken up and agitated by others 



350 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

of their number* Thus in the summer of 1913 a number of private 
quarrels and some bloodshed occurred, and this led to quite an agita- 
tion. Just before our removal for the summer to the village of Suke- 
el-Gharb a Druse was killed by a Christian, and the Druses, think- 
ing that the murderer was being secluded there, marched on the village 
with a force numbering perhaps five hundred. The Christians were 
ready to defend themselves by armed conflict, but the British Vice- 
Consul happened to be in the village that day, and he and other in- 
fluential men exerted themselves to preserve peace, and their efforts 
were successful. Other threatened outbreaks were also avoided with- 
out serious trouble. 

And this leads me to speak of that terrible practise prevalent in 
the East, known as blood- revenge. According to this cruel custom, 
Blood-Revenge ^^ *^^ real murderer can not be reached the avengers 
of blood have a right to kill any other member of 
his family; and when they can not be easily reached, any other per- 
son of his religion will do. This wretched, barbarous practise is con- 
tinued by Christians (?), as well as other classes; in fact, such re- 
taliatory acts are of constant recurrence between the Christians and 
Druses. 

While we were living in Shweifat, some of this blood-revenge was 
carried out. Previously a Druse had killed a Christian, and it was 
known, of course, that revenge would be sought, and that some Druse 
would have to die. This very uncertainty of whom the victim will be 
fills the inhabitants with terror. And when the avengers kill some one 
outside of the family of the murderer, they usually select one of the 
very best men that they can find, so as to make the effect all the 
more terrible and shocking. In the case referred to, a young Druse 
man of good reputation, who lived just across the valley and in sight 
of our house in Shweifat, was returning from his place of business 
in Beirut, when his carriage was stopped by some Christians (.?), who 
first engaged him in conversation, and then shot him five times, and 
fled. The carriage-driver (also a Druse) rushed him home, but he 
died shortly after he was carried into the house. It was pitiful to 
listen to the wailing of his sorrowing relatives. This poor victim had 
no possible implication with the original murder — ^but he was a Druse, 
and that was sufficient for the avengers of blood. How terrible! 

But I will turn from such scenes of tragedy to the more agreeable 
subject of God's own work. I will mention two cases among the 
number of those who were divinely healed while we were living in 
Shweifat. One was the case of a young girl who was a student in the 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



351 



Two Cases of 
Healing 



school. She had a peculiar affliction, the cause and nature of which 
doctors were unable to determine. Each year when the cooler weather 
of winter was felt one arm and hand would swell, turn 
black, and remain in that condition, entirely helpless, 
during the rest of the winter. The same thing oc- 
curred again while we were there, but when the other hand and arm 
began to show signs of swelling also, some alarm was felt. We talked 
with her and found 
that she had real 
faith in Jesus, there- 
fore a little company 
of us met together, 
and we anointed and 
prayed for her, and 
before we removed 
our hands from her 
the swelling began to 
diminish, and she was 
entirely healed. The 
next time I saw her 
she was playing a- 
m o n g the other 
schoolgirls, using 
her arm and hand 
freely. 

The other case was 
the mother of one of 
the young sisters, 
whose name was 
Selma, and stands 

connected with Selma's earnest desire to be baptized. I have already 
mentioned the opposition to baptism among the people. One day 
Selma and some of the other girls came to our home, and she re- 
quested us to pray for the Lord to open the way for her baptism; 
so we knelt and asked God to soften the heart of the mother and 
cause her to give her consent. A day or so later the mother met with 
an accident in which her ankle was severely injured. Some of the 
sisters visited her and had prayer, then some of the rest of us also 
went, and the mother asserted her belief in God's willingness to heal 
her. And although her mind was darkened in regard to spiritual 
truth, we felt led to pray, and the Lord healed her. In accordance 



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A Common Burden-Bearer 



352 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



with the Oriental conception of God's direct control and authorship 
of every event, Selma said, "Mama, God has punished you because 
you would not allow me to be baptized; now if you hinder me, he 
will punish you more." Finally her mother said, "Then go and 
be baptized." When we came forth from the water Selma was su- 
premely happy. 

Toward the close of the year 1913 we were rejoiced to welcome 
the coming from America of Sister Nellie Laughlin, who also began 
her work by teaching in the same school with Sister Bessie Hittle. 
But within a few months from this time these sisters began to feel 
clearly that the Lord would have them withdraw from the school work 




Typical Lebanon Villag'e 



at the end of the school year, that they might be free to give them- 
selves entirely to true missionary work — the preaching and teaching 

of the pure gospel. Our intended departure in the 
Shweifat spring, and the urgency of spiritual work made this 

decision imperative. Already opportunities for work 
were opening before us in other villages near by, and the local work 
also required shepherding, that the dear souls who had already been 
won to the truth might not be neglected. Therefore arrangements 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 



353 




Tour Mission Workers in Mount Lebanon (From left to right: Bessie L. Hittle, 
ZaMa Aswad, Nellie S. Iiaughlin, Adele Y. Jureidini) 



354 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

were made for the two sisters to move into the house which we occu- 
pied and to continue the meetings there after we left. 

Our local work in Shweifat also received strong support from 
some native workers whom the Lord raised up. Among the number 
2^g^2L ^^^ Sister Zahia Aswad. This sister was also a 

teacher in the school. Shortly after the arrival of 
Sisters Hittle and Tasker she became convicted of her sins and sought 
for forgiveness ; and after our arrival she was sanctified wholly and 
embraced the full truth. She became one of our most effective trans- 
lators, and soon the Lord called her to the ministry of his Word. 
She bears every evidence of being well settled in the truth, and she 
is full of zeal and earnestness for the spread of the pure gospel among 
her own people. Her home, however, is in Brummana, a village higher 
up in the Lebanon. We are trusting that God will make her efficient 
in establishing his true work in her own village. 

Another capable and effective spiritual worker is Sister Adele 
Jureidini. When she first began coming to our meetings she was 
Adele religious, of course, for all are more or less religious. 

But where people are thus strongly religious and ap- 
parently satisfied in their present condition, it is necessary to use 
considerable wisdom in approaching them on salvation subjects; for 
if we address them in such a way as to imply that their religion is 
nothing and that they are lost sinners, we are liable to cause grievous 
offense. One lady named Fanny had already opened her heart to 
my wife and confessed that she was not saved, and asked for prayers, 
so we felt that the way was now clear for us to labor freely with 
her. 

At our next altar-service a number of people, including Sister 
Adele, came forward. This was the time already referred to when 
so many came and prayed indefinitely, hardly knowing just what they 
needed. Not being well acquainted with either one at that time I 
mistook Adele for Fanny, and as I could labor at the altar with only 
those who understood English I began talking to her in a clear, defi- 
nite way. I impressed upon her the fact that she was lost; that if 
she died in this condition she would go to destruction ; and I in- 
structed her to get hold of God as a poor, lost sinner, and seek for 
his salvation. She took the advice and began praying to that end. 
A little later I was surprised to discover that she was not the per- 
son I thought she was. Months later I told her about my confusion 
of persons on that occasion, and she replied that if I was mistaken in 
her identity, I was not mistaken in her need. 



PERSONAL MISSIONARY EXPERIENCES 355 

After Sister Adele was saved and sanctified she also became one 
of our regular translators. As the truth of God dawned upon her 
heart she accepted it, and God also called her to the ministry, and 
she is very effective in preaching the gospel in Arabic. Though 
rather frail in body, she is strong in spirit, and is a real inspiration 
to the work. 

Adele's father was a Protestant preacher, but he died some years 
ago. Her mother is stiU living in Shweifat, and she bears an excellent 
reputation in the village. She also became interested 
J *(rfdlnl ^^ °^^ meetings and the truth took hold upon her 

soul. She saw that the baptism of adults was the 
true Bible standard, but for a long time she hesitated in regard to 
obeying it. The idea of a woman being baptized when she was old 
was about as strange to her, and to the people there, as the doctrine 
of a new birth for an old man was to Nicodemus. But one day while 
I was preaching on obedience, and reading Matthew 7 : 21-27, she 
arose in the congregation and began talking rapidly in Arabic to 
this effect: "I have been a Christian for many years, but there is 
one commandment of the Lord that I have never obeyed, and I see 
that if I am not obedient I will be left outside of heaven — I have never 
been baptized. I want you girls to go and tell your parents that I 
am going to be baptized, and for them to allow you to be baptized 
too." Our hearts rejoiced to see such an influential person take an 
open stand for the truth! 

"Buried with him in immersion, 

How sacred to sink 'neath the wave; 
We witness a pure testimony. 

When low 'red in the symbolic grave. 

"I bid the world a last farewell. 
No more in sin I'll ever dwell; 
Joined to the Lord like saints of yore, 
Never to part, no, nevermore." 



MISSIONARY METHODS 



MISSIONARY METHODS 



Christianity is universal in its nature, and the whole world spread 
out before us is the field of our evangelizing efforts ; therefore the sub- 
ject of missionary methods is of prime importance and well deserves 
careful consideration. Our object is to plant the pure gospel in 
every country, and to encourage its early growth there until it will 
finally perpetuate itself. How can this result be accomplished? 

The most successful missionary that the Christian church has 
produced was St. Paul. For some time after his conversion he did 
not venture out very far in the work; but after he 
Ideal ^ ^^^ gained sufficient experience by laboring in con- 

Missionary junction with other ministers of Christ, at Antioch 

and other places, the Holy Ghost said, "Separate me 
Barnabas and Saul for the work whereunto I have called them" (Acts 
13: 2). He then entered upon his first missionary tour. 

So remarkable was the success of the apostle Paul that within a 
few years he had planted the gospel in Galatia, Asia, Macedonia and 
Achaia — four provinces of the Roman Empire; and so firmly had 
this work been established that he could write to the Romans that 
"from Jerusalem, and round about unto Illyricum, I have fully 
preached the gospel of Christ," and that he had "no more place in 
these parts" (Rom. 15:19, 23). 

That the call of Paul as the "apostle of the Gentiles" was special, 
and that he himself was a special man in many respects — ^possessing 
superior qualifications and abilities — we freely admit; but the fact 
that he was thus called and qualified does not prevent our attempting 
to approach him as nearly as possible in spirit, message, and methods. 
"Be ye followers of me, even as I also am of Christ," was his injunc- 
tion to the Corinthians; and we feel disposed to follow in the steps 
of one whose life was crowned with such brilliant success under the 
direct leadership and inspiration of the Holy Spirit. 

Of late the attention of the religious world has been directed par- 
ticularly to a study of the missionary methods of St. Paul ; and to these 

359 



360 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

particular methods, in a great measure, is attributed his remarkable 

success, in contrast with the failure of modern missionaries, who have 

varied from these methods. But methods, however 
Methods and jji-v-i j. iu-i- 

Message grand and desirable, are not some sort oi quickemng, 

vivifying force, though they may be the storage-bat- 
teries containing the pent-up energy, and the medium through which 
it operates. The form must be carefully distinguished from the life. 
I feel certain that the real secret of Paul's success — the cause that 
produced these wonders — is to be found in the character of his mes- 
sage and its being accompanied by the mighty power of God. The 
method of his operation was largely the natural result of the nature 
of his calling and message. 

Modern missions have varied as far from the apostle Paul in the 
character of their message and work as they have from his methods. 
Imagine, if you can, the apostle Paul — called to evangelize the world 
and burdened with a message for the lost — settling down to spend his 
life as a financial agent, constructing large buildings, superintending 
boarding- and day-schools for the instruction of children in rudi- 
mentary education, managing the affairs of a hospital; the whole 
accompanied with a few formal prayers and an occasional preaching 
service accommodated to the prejudices of a mixed class of Jews, 
Druses, Mohammedans, Maronites, Greek Orthodox, etc. ! Paul did 
not construct buildings: he went and preached in the synagogues 
that were already built; and when he was rejected there, he entered 
other buildings. He did not attempt to educate children, nor even 
adults: he went to those centers of Greek culture and education 
where were to be found large numbers of people who were already fit- 
ted to receive the pure gospel. And that apostle who healed the im- 
potent man at Lystra, raised from his sick-bed the father of Publius, 
restored to life Eutychus, and whose mission was everywhere at- 
tested with "signs, and wonders, and mighty deeds" — that missionary 
had little personal use for a hospital. 

Paul did not frown upon those things which naturally prepared 
the way for the reception of the gospel, but such things were not 
a part of his calling as a missionary and as an apostle of the Lord 
Jesus Christ. He was wont to pray that a "door of opportunity" 
might be opened for his work, and it was open doors that he entered. 

When we examine the character of Paul's teaching, we shall un- 
derstand better his methods. In the first place, we observe in him a 
straightforward, steadfast purpose, inspired by a consciousness of 
the truth of his message. For this reason he could say, "I am not 



MISSIONARY METHODS 361 

ashamed of the gospel of Christ: for it is the power of God unto sal- 
vation to every one that believeth; to the Jew first, and also to the 
Greek" (Rom. 1:16). He knew that his message 
Consciousness contained the only hope of salvation for men, and he 
of His Message therefore labored with the express object of convert- 
ing men and women. And although his message was 
a stumbling-block to the Jews and foolishness to the Greeks, his con- 
fidence in it was unbounded. "For the preaching of the cross is to 
them that perish foolishness ; but unto us which are saved it is the 
power of God" (1 Cor. 1:18). If we believe and accept the Word 
of God as it is, there is nothing to hinder us from going forth to- 
day inspired with the same consciousness of the truth of our mes- 
sage. 

Paul had a definite conviction of his calling from God to the work 
in which he engaged. He declared himself to be "an apostle, not of 

men, neither by man, but by Jesus Christ" (Gal. 1:1). 
Realization of 4ii • cii j> ^ • -i ^ 

Divine And he was conscious oi the source irom which he 

Authority received this gospel; for he says, "I certify you, 

brethren, that the gospel which was preached of me 
is not after man. For I neither received it of man, neither was 5 
taught it, but by the revelation of Jesus Christ" (Gal. 1:11, 12). 
"For I have received of the Lord that which also I delivered untd 
you" (1 Cor. 11:23). 

The account of Paul's conversion and call to the ministry is re- 
corded three times in the Acts (twice as related by himself when on 
trial). Before Agrippa he proclaimed, in language unmistakable, the 
reality of his divine call to the Gentiles. He related there that when 
the Lord appeared to him on the Damascus road he cried out, "Who 
art thou. Lord?" and that the reply was: "I am Jesus whom thou per- 
secutest. But rise, and stand upon thy feet : for I have appeared unto 
thee for this purpose, to make thee a minister and a witness both of' 
these things which thou hast seen, and of those things in the which 
I will appear unto thee ; delivering thee from the people, and from 
the Gentiles, unto whom now I send thee, to open their eyes, and to 
turn them from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan unto 
God, that they may receive forgiveness of sins, and inheritance among 
them which are sanctified by faith that is in me" (Acts 26: 15-18). 

The Pauline doctrine was definite and radical. He made no ef- 
fort to win the favor of the masses by flattery or by compromise. 
He did not represent the pagan nations as being children of God 
merely with imperfect forms of worship ; hence his effort was not to 



362 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 




Hi 

O 

o 
.4 



I 



MISSIONARY METHODS 363 

"trim the dimly glowing lamp of God in the heathen temple." On 
the other hand, he said, "The things which the Gen- 
Definlteness in ^^^^ sacrifice, they sacrifice to devils" (1 Cor. 10:20). 
Teaching He did not recognize so much of good in all men as 

to prescribe for their need a mere improvement 
secured by gradual evolution to a little higher type. 

Paul's doctrine was that on account of their sins all men are lost 
— that "all have sinned, and come short of the glory of God." He 
declared to the Romans that even those Gentiles who have not the 
written, revealed law have nevertheless God's law written in their 
hearts sufficiently to fix moral responsibility (Rom. 2:14, 15), and 
that the Jews, notwithstanding their objective revelation, had also 
sinned against God, and he quoted their own Scriptures to sustain 
his charge. He then summed up his argument in the words, "We have 
before proved both Jews and Gentiles, that they are all under sin" 
(Rom. 3:9). Upon this conclusion he predicated his doctrine that 
the only hope for the world was to be found in Jesus Christ. The 
entire world is lost in sin; salvation is in Christ alone. All men are 
in a state of spiritual death; there must be a new birth, a quickening 
into divine life, and this life is to be found only in God's Son. 

In setting forth the exclusive way of Christ, the apostle exercised 
divine wisdom, but this did not detract from the clearness and definite- 
ness of his teaching. When the city of Ephesus was 
CompromlS^"^ convulsed in a mighty uproar occasioned by Paul's 
preaching, the town clerk stated that Paul had not 
blasphemed their goddess (Acts 19:37). But though the apostle 
carefully refrained from railing on their religion, he was also care- 
ful to set for 111 llic tiuth so clearly and positively that it would make 
a distinct line of cleavage between the way of idolatry and the way 
of Christ: it was this that caused the tumult. When the acceptance 
of the truth found outward expression in deeds, insomuch that a bon- 
fire was made of the books on incantation and magic, the hearers 
knew full well that Paul's declaration that there was only one true 
and living God meant the rejection of Diana. Paul msde no effort to 
avoid this issue. 

So also at Athens. Standing on Mar's Hill within sight of the 
greatest temples of idolatry, the apostle displayed remarkable tact 
and wisdom in pointing out the altar inscribed To the Unknown 
God, and making this God the subject of his remarks — thus avoiding 
the charge of introducing a new deity. But he made no attempt to 
conceal or ve>l the actual truth: his message was clear and the issue 



364 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

inevitable. He plainly showed that the systems of idolatry were inefficient 

and that salvation is to be obtained only through that "unknown 

God," who had revealed himself to the world through Jesus Christ. 

The definiteness of Paul's general teaching becomes even more 

apparent when considered in its relation to his well-defined doctrine 

of the wrath of God. His preaching was not of a 
The 'Wtath . . . 

Qf qq^ mere advisory nature — not simply a setting-forth of 

something which was in his opinion desirable because 

better than his hearers' attainments: his preaching was authoritative; 

the message which he delivered was the message of God. To reject 

that message meant to reject God and to be in the end rejected byi 

God. "For the wrath of God is revealed from heaven against all un- 




A Syrian Tlireshiug'-Floor 

godliness and unrighteousness of men, who hold the truth in unright- 
eousness" (Rom. 1:18). "The Lord Jesus shall be revealed fromi 
heaven with his mighty angels, in flaming fire talcing vengeance on them 
that know not God, and that obey not the gospel of our Lord Jesus 
Christ : who shall be punished with everlasting destruction from the- 
presence of the Lord, and from the glory of his power" (2 Thess.. 
1 : 7-9) I 

The nature of Paul's message, as I have just set forth, necessi- 
tated moral choice and action on the part of the hearers. The issue- 
was ever clear before them, and they were made to- 
and Action realize that the way of truth set before them was the- 

way of life. It is evident that he so presented the- 
gospel as to demand their decision either for or against it; and when 
they rejected his message, he rejected them. He did not simply leave 



MISSIONARY METHODS 365 

them, but he openly rejected them, and thus kept a clear line of dis- 
tinction between those who accepted the truth and those who refused 
it. When the Jews at Antioch in Pisidia, "spake against those things 
which were spoken by Paul, contradicting and blaspheming," thfe 
apostle waxed bold and said, "It was necessary that the word of God 
should first have been spoken to you: but seeing you put it from you, 
and judge yourselves unworthy of everlasting life, lo, we turn to the 
Gentiles" (Acts 13:45, 46). 

So also at Corinth. "When they opposed themselves and blas- 
phemed, he shook his raiment, and said unto them. Your blood be 
upon your own heads ; I am clean : from henceforth I will go unto the 
Gentiles" (Acts 18:6). 

Rejection was always a possibility. The apostle's conduct on such 
occasions was determined by the nature of the message itself. He 
could not go on teaching truth which required moral decision and 
action to those who had already rejected it. He was ready to do as 
Christ instructed the disciples, "Shake off the dust of your feet, and 
go unto another city." "But when divers were hardened, and believed 
not, but spake evil of that way before the multitude, he departed from 
them, and separated the disciples, disputing daily in the school of 
one Tyrannus" (Acts 19:9). 

The same gospel presented clearly today requires the same moral 
decision; and when people refuse to act on the teaching, we should 
turn to those who e^e ready to receive it. If we continue year after 
year to preach to those who constantly refuse to act upon it, we 'be- 
come mere instructors of the intellect. The gospel demands moral 
response, and we must demand it. 

The result of Paul's teaching was the separation from the world 
of a society of men and women whose hearts responded to the truth. 
And this was the object. Paul did not talk vaguely 
Cliurcli' A about civilizing the whole race and Christianizing the 

Special People world; but he believed, as did Peter, that God "did 
visit the Gentiles to take out of them a people for 
his name" (Acts 15:14). This company of called-out ones was the 
body of Christ, his church, a peculiar treasure, a special people. 
Membership in this society was not offered on easy terms, but could 
be secured only by such a moral response to the truth as would lead 
to the rejection of the old life, and a willingness to labor and suffer 
for Christ. 

Nor was Paul's teaching merely individualistic ; it was social. He 



366 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



did not represent himself as an isolated minister, but as an apostle of 
the church of God, a fellow laborer with others. According to his 
teaching, the individual believer who is united with Christ becomes 
by virtue of this union an actual member of a composite body of 
Christians, with whom he is united by spiritual ties as definitely as to 
the Lord himself. Paul held and taught the visible unity of all be- 
lievers in Christ. "Now therefore ye are no more strangers and for- 
eigners, but fellow citizens with the saints, and of the household of 
God; and are built upon the foundation of the apostles and proph- 
ets, Jesus Christ himself being the chief corner-stone; in whom all 
the building fitly framed together groweth unto an holy temple in 
the Lord: in whom ye also are huilded together for an habitation of 

God through the 
Spirit" (Eph. 2: 
19-22). 

The message of 
Paul was attested 
by the manifesta- 
tion of divine pow- 
er. Through the 
preaching of the 
gospel "the power 
of God unto salva- 
tion" was continu- 
ally manifested in 
the transformation 
of men and women 
from a life of sin to holiness. But this is not all. At Iconium "the 
Lord gave testimony unto the word of his grace, and granted signs 
and wonders to be done by their hands" (Acts 14: 3). 
of Divine ^^ Ephesus God "wrought special miracles by the 

Power hands of Paul," so that within two years "all thej' 

which dwelt in Asia heard the word of the Lord «Te- 
sus" (Acts 19:9, 10). It was not Paul's presence and personal in- 
fluence alone that won his point in the Jerusalem council, but the 
declaration of the "miracles and wonders" that God had wrought 
by him among the Gentiles (Acts 15:12). Again, as proof of the 
reliability of his preaching, in contrast with the doctrine of Judaiz- 
ing teachers, Paul directs the Galatians to a consideration of the 
"miracles" which he had wrought among them by the Spirit of God 
(Gal. 3:5). And among the Corinthians "signs, and wonders, and 




Pyramid at Sakkara, Egrypt 



MISSIONARY METHODS 367 

mighty deeds" occurred (2 Cor. 12:12). One of his mighty works 
was the casting out of devils. 

With an understanding of the nature of Paul's message and work 
we are prepared to understand in a great measure the secret of his 
extraordinary success. The manifestations of God's 
Zeal and power attracted hearers and attested the truth and 

authority of his message. The definiteness of his 
teaching and the demand of moral response brought out a clear, dis- 
tinctive people, who, being fully convinced of the divine nature of 
the work, were ready to devote their entire energies to the propaga- 
tion of that gospel which alone can save men. Thus, the apostle was 
not isolated in his efforts, but was supported and assisted by numer- 
ous brethren. Napoleon's success in war was largely due to the fact 
that his hands were upheld by a score of marshals scarcely less dis- 
tinguished than himself. So also Paul's great success in the gospel 
was not due merely to nicely arranged "methods," nor to his person- 
ality and qualifications alone, but to the divine life of the move- 
ment of which he formeid only a leading part. 

We are now better able to understand the methods of the apos- 
tle Paul; for, as I have already stated, the methods that he pur- 
sued were largely the natural result of the character 
^thods °^ ^^^ message. Except in a few instances I can not 

see how his course could have been essentially differ- 
ent from what it was. His definite preaching produced certain re- 
sults and brought out a special people, who required spiritual care 
and oversight, and this determined his relationship with the body of 
believers ; so that force of circumstances naturally suggested some 
of the methods which he employed. Nevertheless, in some things 
there is unmistakable evidence of clear, deliberate foresight and plan. 

Roland Allen has shown that Paul evidently made a deliberate 
choice of certain strategic points for the establishment of the gos- 

Strateglc Points P^l'* ^^ *^^ ^^«* P^^^^' ^^ confined his labors to 
those countries whose government was administered 
by the Romans. This afforded him, a Roman citizen, a degree of 
freedom and security not otherwise possible, and also gave the churches 
whatever advantages were to be had under a strong government. "But 
he did not only seek Roman protection. He found under the Roman 
Government something more than peace and security of travel. He 
found not only toleration and an open field for his preaching, there was 

*Missionary Methods; St. Paul's or Ours? p. 15. Under this heading I have 
closely followed Mr. Allen. 



368 



MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 



also in the mere presence of Roman officials an influence which materially 
assisted his work. The idea of the world-wide empire which they repre- 
sented, the idea of the common citizenship of men of many differ- 
ent races in that one empire, the strong authority of the one law, 
the one peace, the breaking down of national exclusiveness, all these 
things prepared men's minds to receive St. Paul's teaching of the king- 
dom of Christ, and of the common citizenship of all Christians in it." 
The places where Paul labored were centers of Greek civilization. 
The Greeks were a people remarkable for their learning, and, al- 
though they had been subdued politically by the strong arm of Rome, 

their intellects liad 
not been bound, so 
that, as some one 
has said, the 
mighty genius of 
Greece "captured, 
led captive her 
captor." The influ- 
ence of Greek civi- 
lization fostered a 
general diffusion of 
knowledge through- 
out the Roman Em- 
pire. In those days 
even Tarsus, in 
Asia Minor, was famous for its schools, and Alexandria and Antioch, 
Ephesus and Thessalonica, as well as Athens and Corinth, were centers 
of Greek influence aiid education. Greek was the common medium of 
communication everywhere, and the apostle, preaching in Greek and 
writing in Greek, could reach the masses of people, especially in those 
cities that were strongly influenced by Grecian civilization. In such 
places the apostle found thousands of people whose minds were already 
sufficiently opened to give him access with the gospel to their under- 
standing. I am satisfied that he deliberately selected these places on 
account of their offering superior access to the people. 

But in entering these cities Paul always went first to the Jewish 
synagogues and there began his work. The Jews were everywhere. 
"For Moses of old time hath in every city them that preach him, being 
read in the synagogues every Sabbath-day" (Acts 15: 21). There was 
also an advantage in beginning with the Jews. Under the Roman Gov- 
ernment the Jews enjoyed peculiar advantages, freedom of religion, and 




Obelisk at Heliopolis, Eg'ypt 



MISSIONARY METHODS 369 

the administration of their own law. Paul came among them as a Jew. 
As the gospel stands rooted in the Jewish Scriptures, Paul had here a 
tremendous advantage in introducing the gospel, by having before him 
a class of people who were familiar with the texts which he used. And 
even when he was rejected by the synagogue, there was this advantage: 
that his work thus stood out clearly and distinctively as being separate 
from Judaism, not bound by its exclusiveness, but universal. But as 
the Jews had the Scriptures, they were, or should have been, the best 
prepared to receive that gospel which is built upon them; therefore it 
was consistent that the offers of salvation should be presented to them 
first. I refer to these facts to show that Paul deliberately sought for, and 
took advantage of, those favorable conditions which religious training 
and secular education had provided as if for the reception of his gospel. 

Paul's object in each case was the evangelization of the province, 
but in order to accomplish this he endeavored to plant the gospel in a 
few chief cities of that province. In evangelizing them he evangelized the 
province, for these places were designed to be centers of spiritual light 
and influence from which the work might spread. Says Allen: 

"We have often heard in modern days of concentrated missions at 
great centers. We have often heard of the importance of seizing 
strategic points. But there is a difference between our seizing of 
strategic centers and Paul's. To seize a strategic center we need not 
only a mail capable of recognizing it, but a man capable of seizing it. 
Most of the people who walk into London are lost in the crowd. A 
great center may be a swamp which absorbs, as well as a source from 
which flows life-giving power to all the country round. 

"And the seizing of strategic points implies a strategy. It is part 
of a plan of attack upon the whole country. Concentrated missions at 
strategic centers, if they are to win the province, must be centers of 
evangelistic life. In great cities are great prisons as well as great rail- 
way stations. Concentrated missions may mean concentrated essence 
of authority or concentrated essence of liberty. A concentrated mis- 
sion may be a great prison or a great market. It may be la safe in 
which all the best intellect of the day is shut up,, or it may be a mint 
from which the coin of new thought is put into circulation. A great 
many of our best men are locked up in strategic centers. If once they 
get in they find it hard to get out." 

Another noticeable feature of Paul's system, and one that in no 
small degree contributed directly to his great success, was the practise 
of what we today would term the evangelistic method of establishing 
churches. No church that Paul raised up could get the idea that he Was 



370 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

building up a work for his own benefit. They knew that he could not 
b« localized. I. suppose that any one of these local churches could 

have retained Paul permanently to their advantage; 
Method ^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ settled down thus to work, he would 

have lived and died in comparative obscurity, and 
a large measure of his success would have been lost. 

Paul attempted to make the new converts feel that the gospel which 
he preached was theirs, and that in accepting its benefits they also ac- 
cepted its responsibilities, became obligated to perpetuate their own 
work and spread it to others. This attitude toward them encouraged 
the development of local workers, and as soon as the new converts 
became sufficiently settled to be trusted, the apostle stepped aside and 
gave room for their development. This is an important point. The 
presence of able men — leaders of thought and action — tends to prevent 
others from developing and realizing themselves. This has been con- 
firmed by my own observation. I have known men of great talents to 
settle down as local pastors and while thus engaged not to raise up a 
single effective minister; whereas, on the other hand, some men of less 
ability have made remarkable records in the number of able ministers 
whom they have raised up. The reason for this is clear: the first be- 
came centers around which everything revolved, while the latter merely 
made their presence felt long enough to fix responsibility and then made 
room for others. Any man whom God can use in raising up new con- 
gregations can soon establish one such church that will occupy the rest 
of his life in caring for it himself; whereas the same man, working ac- 
cording to the Pauline method, can easily raise up many such churches 
and have them all well cared for by those who can not do the work that 
he can do. And this introduces another point. 

When Paul established new churches and then went away, he did not 
forsake them entirely, but continued to exercise a general oversight of 

them. For this reason, in enumerating the various 
Oversiglit things that weighed upon his spirit, he mentioned the 

daily "care of all the churches" (2 Cor. 11 : 28). When- 
ever possible he visited these churches occasionally, or he engaged 
some one else to look after certain matters connected with them; as, 
for example, Titus in Crete (Tit. 1:5), and Timothy at Ephesus 
(1 Tim. 1:3). And he also wrote epistles to them when occasion 
demanded such. 

But the chief point in the apostle's methods which I wish to im- 
press as one secret of his marvelous success, is the fact that in rais- 
ing up a congregation, even among the heathen, he so labored arid 



MISSIONARY METHODS 



371 



fixed responsibility upon others that in a very short time he could 
release himself from its ordinary ministrations and be free to plant 
the truth in other cities. 

The great church at Ephesus, the center of spiritual light from 
which "all they which dwelt in Asia heard the word of the Lord Je- 
sus," was only two years old when Paul left it ; yet four months later, 
when the apostle was passing near that city and halted at Miletus, 
there were in Ephesus a number of elders whom the Holy Ghost had 
made overseers. Doubtless these elders were raised up and set in 
their position while the apostle was with them; but as they were 
young in experi- 
ence, he summoned 
them to meet him at 
Miletus, that he 
might impart some 
further instruc- 
tions, advice, and 
warnings (Acts 
20). 

That the apos- 
tle's method in re- 
gard to the finan- 
cial affairs of the 
churches was alto- 
g e t h e r different 

from the practises of modern times on the mission fields , can , be 
easily shown by the Scriptures. Without burdening 
System ^^^ reader with a vast array of texts support- 

ing my statements, I , will simply refer to cer-; 
tain well-known facts. 

In the first place, the apostle did not enter the ministry as a, 
profession, in order to make a living, but he had a definite call from 
God; therefore he says, "Necessity is laid upon me; yea, woe is unto 
me, if I preach not the -gospel" (1 Cor. 9:16). Under certain cir- 
cumstances and in certain places, as at Corinth, Paul labored with 
his own hands to support himself while preaching, but he afterwards 
confessed to the Corinthians that, in this he did wrong, for by bear- 
ing his own expenses he failed to teach and develop the church along 
one of its distinct lines of duty (2 Cor. 12:13); and by letter he 
made known to them God's own appointed way for the support of 
his ministers (1 Cor. 9:7-14). Paul did receive gifts from his con- 




EETTptian Water-Carriers 



372 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

verts, and he praised the Philippians because they 'sent once and 
again unto his necessity' (Phil. 4:15, 16); and he informed the 
Corinthians that while he was wronging them by not teaching them 
their duty towards him he "robbed other churches, taking wages of 
them," to do the Corinthians service (2 Cor. 11:8). 

But whatever financial help churches sent to Paul to assist him 
while he was laboring to raise up other churches, it is evident from 
the Scriptures that the churches were themselves 
independence financially independent. Each church, or province at 
least, were instructed to support its preachers arid to 
remember its poor; but with the single exception of the general 
effort made to raise money for the relief of the poor saints at 
Jerusalem, "there is not a hint from beginning to end of the Acts 
and Epistles of any one church depending upon another." That 
exception was evidently a special occasion, and no part of the reg- 
ular financial plans of the church. 

The study of apostolic methods of finances leads me to a con- 
sideration of present-day methods of financing and conducting mis- 
sionary work. And lest I should be open to the 
Metlfods charge of being biased in my views and criticisms of 

Protestant missionary enterprises, I will make various 
(Quotations under this heading from no less an authority than Roland 
Allen, who has had an extensive experience on the Protestant mis- 
sionary field.* 

After speaking of the prevalent conception that the stability of 
a church depends upon the permanence of its buildings and that there- 
fore the first step in establishing a mission is generally to draw large 
sums of money from home, secure a building-site, and commence 
building, Mr. Allen goes on to say: 

"Thus the foundation of a new mission is primarily a financial 
operation. But it ought not properly to be a financial operation, 
and the moment it is allowed to appear as such, that moment ver^y 
false and dangerous elements are introduced into our work. 

"By our eagerness to secure property for the church we often 
succeed in raising up many difficulties in the way of our preaching. 
We sometimes, especially perhaps in such a country as China, arouse 
the opposition of the local authorities who do not desire to give for- 
eigners a permanent holding in their midst. We occasionally even 
appeal to legal support to enforce our right to purchase the prop- 

^♦Missionary Methods; St. Paul's or Ours? 



MISSIONARY METHODS 



373 



erty, and thus we begin our work in a turmoil of strife and excite^ 
ment which we might have avoided. ' ;. 

"We load our missionaries with secular business, negotiations 
with contractors, the superintendence of works, the management of a 
considerable establishment, to which is often added anxiety .about the 
supply of funds for providing and maintaining the establishment. In 
this way their attention is distracted from their proper spiritual 
work, their energy and power is dissipated, and their first contaot 
with the people whom they desire to evangelize is connected with 




Bedouin Tents in Syria 



contracts and other purely secular concerns. It is sad to think what 
a large proportion of the time of many of our missionaries as spent 
over accounts. It is sad to sit and watch a stream of Christian vis- 
itors calling upon a missionary, and to observe that in nearly every 
case the cause which brings them is money. They are the financial 
agents of the mission." 

Our author then proceeds to show that in thus placing externals: 
first a wrong impression is made and that the natives do not and can 
not see that there is any divine spirit back of these things. Then 
he says : 

"Now, the purchase of land and the establishment of foreign mis- 
sions in these establishments, especially if they are founded in the 



374 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

face of opposition from the local authorities, naturally suggest the 
idea of a foreign domination. The very permanence of the buildings 
suggests the permanence of the foreign element. The land is se- 
cured, and the buildings are raised, in the first instance by the pow- 
erful influence of foreigners. That naturally raises a question in the 
native mind why these people should be so eager to secure a perma- 
nent holding in their midst. They naturally suspect some evil ulterior 
motive. They suppose that the foreigner is eager to extend his influ- 
ence and to establish himself amongst them at their expense. In China, 
particularly, the common idea prevalent amongst the people is that 
to become a Christian involves submission to a foreign domination. 

: This conception has a most powerful effect in deterring the people 
from approaching the missionary or from receiving his teaching with 
open minds. I think it is now almost universally admitted that the 
permanence of foreign rule in the church ought not to be our object 
in propagating the gospel. But by taking large supplies with us to 
provide and support our establishments and organizations we do in 
fact build up that which we should be most eager to destroy. 

Moreover, we do not want to produce the impression that we de- 

I sign to introduce an institution, even if it is understood that the 

1 ijtistitution is to be naturalized. Christianity is not an institution, but 

■ ''M principle of life." 

The whole tendency of this course is to impress the natives that 
the religion which these people have is foreign. When foreign peo- 
ple come and build up such institutions with foreign money and in 
foreign style, the natives can scarcely avoid this idea. And yet this 
is the very- thing thai should be avoided, for it is one of the greatest 
difficulties that a missionary can encounter. 

Furthermore, this wholesale practise of bringing all supplies from 
home is a ruinous policy, in that it prevents the native church from 
comprehending its financial obligations and responsibilities. We be- 
lieve that eventually the native churches should become self-support- 
ing; but unless they are taught this, and held to practise it to the 
best of their ability from the beginning, they will never become self- 
supporting. Moreover, if we build up among them elaborate insti- 
tutions, in Western style, and thus associate in their minds religion 
and elegance, they can never support such a system. In our very 
efforts to have everything nice and inviting according to our way of 
thinking, we are doing positive harm to the work, in thus imposing 
Western standards upon Eastern people — standards which in theii 
social condition they are unable to maintain. 



MISSIONARY METHODS 



375 



"By the establishment of great institutions, the provision of large 
parsonages, mission houses, churches, and all the accompaniments of 
these things, we [Protestants] tie our evangelists to 
one place," criticizes Mr. Allen. "They cease to be 
movable evangelists, and tend to become pastors. From 
time to time they go out on tour, but their stations are their chief 
care, and to their stations they are tied. Even if they find that the 
station is not well chosen, so much money is invested in it, that they 



Further 
Hindrances 




Syrian Feasant Plowing' 



•can not easily move. Even if some new opening of larger importance 
is before them, they can not enter into it without serious and financially 
difficult adjustments. 

"Further, these establishments make it very difficult for any native 
to succeed to the place of a European missionary. The Christians 
gathered round the stations are very conscious of the advantage of 
having a European [or American] in their midst. He has influence 
with governors, merchants, masters. He can give valuable recom- 
mendations. He can return home and plead for his people with soci- 
eties and charitably disposed individuals. He can collect money for 
his schools and hospitals. In time of need and stress he can afford 
io expend much. He is, or is supposed to be, above the common temp- 



376 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

tations of the people. He is naturally free from local entanglements. 
He can not be accused of seeking to make places for his relations. 
His judgment is impartial, his opinion unbiased by any divisions or 
jealousies of local society. All these things incline the native con- 
verts to prefer a European to a native as the head of their station. 
Consequently, it is very difficult for any native to succeed him. The 
native has none of these advantages. He can not tap the sources of 
supply, he can not exercise the same charitable liberality, he can not 
expect, as of right, the same confidence. He is liable to attack from 
all sides. He has not even the prestige which attaches to a white face. 
His position is well-nigh impossible. Moreover, if a native is put in 
charge of a station, he naturally expects to be paid at the same rate 
as his white predecessor. If he is not so paid, he feels aggrieved. It 
is useless to explain to him that a native ought to be able to mak^ 
one rupee or one dollar go as far as six or seven in the hands of a 
European. To him the salary for this work, this post, has been 
fixed at so much, and if he occupies the post, he should receive so 
much. But native Christians, left to themselves, would never have- 
created such a post, and sooner or later they will abolish it. They 
are accustomed to other standards, and other methods of payment, 
or support, for teachers. Thus by the establishment of these posts 
we are creating serious difficulties. We say that we hope the day 
is not far off when natives will succeed to our places and carry on 
the work which we have begun. By the creation of these stations 
we have put off that day." 

Paul had none of the troubles of the modern financial agent of for- 
eign missions, for he had no regular funds of the church to admin- 
ister. In his day churches were established, grew up without external 
financial help, and provided for themselves as best they could. And 
being thus taught to supply their own needs by individual sacrifice,, 
they were not apt to be imposed upon, as are foreign missions today,, 
by a numerous class of people seeking only some pecuniary benefit. 
The conditions on many foreign fields today can be described in these 
few words : Bring plenty of money from abroad, build up a fine 
institution through which the natives can hope to secure some pecun- 
iary advantage, and the institution will soon be filled (which some, 
who look upon externals, would call a great work) ; but take away 
all temporal inducements and advantages, and tell these same natives- 
that they must build up their own work by denying themselves ancf' 
sacrificing such things as they have, and the great majority would 
forsake you immediately. 



MISSIONARY METHODS 377 

As I have already observed, one of the main reasons why we find 
it difficult to make native churches self-supporting is that the stand- 
ard which we set for them does not agree with their 
Method conditions. If there are only a few native Christians 

in a local church, poor in this world's goods, and we 
begin by purchasing a building-site for $1,500 or $2,000, and then 
plan the erection of some institution at an expense of many thousands 
more, of course the local church can not support that nor maintain 
it after it is built. I feel convinced that as a church we must give 
more attention to the Bible standard of proceeding on such lines, and 
stop lending so much encouragement to this dangerous notion that 
native churches everywhere can look to America or some other for- 
eign place for the erection of their chapels, the support of their native 
workers, etc. The church in America can not bear the financial bur- 
den of the churches of the world; and unless we promptly discourage 
this ruinous practise, it will soon become a weight upon the neck of 
our missionary cause that will drown all extension work in the depths 
of the sea. 

But this matter of foreign self-supporting churches does not les- 
sen the financial obligations of the home church to all of its mission- 
aries: it rather increases these obligations to such 
of Foreign apostles of the church when they work according to 

IVIlssionaries the true Pauline methods. We have already shown 

that the local churches Paul planted were financially 
independent of each other so far as their own local support was con- 
cerned; but we can easily show that the established churches of that 
day realized their financial obligations to the ministers whom they sent 
forth to plant the gospel in new fields. While at Corinth, Paul received 
such assistance, for he afterwards wrote to them, "I robbed other 
churches, taking wages of them, to do you service" (2 Cor. 11:8). 
While preaching at Thessalonica, he received support from the church 
at Philippi ; for he says : "Even in Thessalonica ye sent once and again 
unto my necessity" (Phil. 4: 16). This language seems to imply that 
they were in the habit of doing this ; and, furthermore, the apostle 
expected it of them, and even reproved them because they did not do 
better. Epaphroditus was obliged to overwork, and became sick as 
a result, simply because this church failed to do its full duty in this 
respect. "Because for the work of Christ he was nigh unto death, 
not regarding his life, to supply your lack of service toward me" 
(Phil. 2: 30). And when that church did respond with financial help, 
Paul said, "Ye have well done, that ye did communicate with my afflic- 



378 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

tion" and "I rejoiced in the Lord greatly, that now at the last your 
care of me hath flourished again" (Phil 4: 14, 10). 

That Paul expected the established churches to support him in 
his missionary efforts is shown by his letter to the Romans: "When- 
soever I take my journey into Spain, I will come to you: for I trust 
to see you in my journey, and to he brought on my way thitherward 
hy you" (Rom. 15:24). He was willing to make this missionary 
journey to Spain, but he wrote for this church to bear his expenses. 
And after the Corinthian church was established, Paul expected their 
support also on his missionary trips. "And it may be that I will 
abide, yea, and winter with you, that ye may bring me on my journey 
whithersoever I go" (1 Cor. 16: 6). And again he informed them of 
his intention "to come again out of Macedonia unto you, and of you 
to be brought on my way toward Judea" (2 Cor. 1: 16). The church 
at Antioch understood its obligation in this respect; for when "they 
determined that Paul and Barnabas, and certain other of them, should 
go up to Jerusalem" on a certain mission, these brethren were "brought 
on their way by the church" (Acts 15:2, 3). 

From these Scriptural examples we conclude that the home church 
is directly responsible for the financial support of all its foreign 
missionaries. There are many distinct advantages in this apostolic 
system when applied in actual work on the mission field. In the first 
place, the messenger of the church being in all practical respects finan- 
cially independent of his hearers, he is above the detrimental suspicion 
of laboring for his own selfish interests. It enables him to build up 
a self-supporting local work; and, being under no binding obligations 
of this character, he is able to withdraw from the direct management 
of that particular work and to labor in new fields, thus making room 
for others. 

In our eagerness to crowd things forward as we do in our own coun- 
try, we are inclined to underestimate the native tact and ability to 
look after their own interests. But before we ar- 
Abilitv rived on the scene, they managed in some way to provide 

their homes, such as they are; they operated their 
markets and shops, and conducted other business enterprises. No 
matter if they do not do such things according to our way ; it is none 
of our business. Then why can they not manage in their own 
way the financial affairs of their own churches. They can; and if we 
allow them to do this, it will relieve us of a great deal of that mis- 
trust of native honesty and ability in the handling of finances ; for 



MISSIONARY METHODS 



37! 



An Exemplary 
Church 



if they handle their own, they are responsible to themselves, and it 
is no business of ours. 

While we were laboring in Alexandria, Egypt, the native church 
was more than doubled in numbers, and considerable interest was awak- 
ened among others. These conditions seemed to re- 
quire efforts for a practical extension of the work be- 
yond their present limits. It was suggested that a 
larger place, in a good location, be secured and fitted up for a place of 
worship. We assisted in selecting the place, and then the native 
brethren and sisters assembled together and talked over the conditions 
upon which it could be obtained for two years, and they arranged 
among themselves for its payment, each one agreeing to contribute 
whatever amount he 
felt able to give. 
When this was done, 
we felt clear to add 
a small offering to 
the general fund. Be- 
ing with them, we 
felt free to act with 
them, but not to act 
before them or with- 
out them. Thus, all * 

the arrangements were made and a good place of worship provided. 
And I can say that that church is entirely self-supporting, even 
their pastor being provided for without assistance from America. 
If I am asked how they are able to do this, I reply, "I do not know; 
I left such responsibilities with them." Out of seven native minis- 
ters with whom I was more or less associated in the work in the 
East, and who are preaching the pure gospel to ih-i best of their 
ability and opportunity, only one (a general worker) receives any 
financial assistance from the church in America. 

In our missionary work we endeavored to give opportunity for 
the development of native talent. From the outset we let it be known 

to some that we would not remain with them periaa- 
Native Talent nently. This announcement we made in such a way 

as not to discourage them in their efforts, but, on 
the contrary, to encourage them and to impress upon them that they 
must prepare themselves to assume the responsibility of perpetuating 
and spreading the truth which God gave them. In other words, we 
determined not to assume any air of superiority towards them (which 



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Churcli of God Mission, Alexandria, Hgrypt 



380 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

is all too common among Americans and Europeans in the East) nor 

to convey the idea that our permanent services would be indispensable. 

And it was really surprising to us how rapid was the advancement 

of some dear souls who fully embraced the truth. 

In addition to the pointed criticisms which Mr. Allen has made 

of the ordinary present-day method of introducing missionary work 

by the extensive construction of buildings, establish- 
Education and i. £ i i v. -j. i jj.i • ■ •■ • • t 

Compromise ment or schools, hospitals ,and other mstitutions, I 

wish to call attention to some other serious objections 
to this method. Hospitals have their place in the world, and schools 
for general education are not only desirable but indispensable; hence 
it is not my purpose to criticize such institutions as institutions, but 
only the method of putting these forward as the first and most im- 
portant feature of missionary work. 

The evils inherent in this system are apparent to spiritual-minded 
people who have had practical experience on the mission field. In 
the first place, the primary importance attached to such institutions 
creates a false impression upon the minds of the natives, for it di- 
rects their attention to external things rather than to spiritual 
things. Again, the proper maintenance of these institutions involves 
a limiting of the pure gosepl of Christ. The ministers who are deter- 
mined to preach a full gospel and who begin their work in a village 
by establishing a school, can not obey the instruction of Christ nor 
follow the example of the great missionary, Paul, in case their spiritual 
message is not well received — they can not "shake off the dust of their 
feet" and depart unto another city. Although their message re- 
ceives no moral response whatever on the part of the people, their 
own buildings hold them to the place. 

But this is not all. The successful operation of these schools 
is dependent upon the community; and if the patronage of the peo- 
ple is to be secured and retained, it is essential that the schools must 
in a great degree conform to their prejudices. Distinctive doctrvnes 
and practises which are contrary to public sentiment Tnust he avoided. 
So vital is this point that some of the most successful Protestant 
bodies maintaining schools in that part of the world where we were 
do not require baptism of those native Christians who desire to enter 
their churches, but accept them as they are, with their triune infant 
immersion. 

In a conversation with a well-educated and leading minister in 
the East I had occasion to ask him concerning the form and manner 
of baptism practised by his denomination in those countries. He 



MISSIONARY METHODS 381 

replied that in the infancy of their work there this subject caused 
them considerable difficulty and that their ministers met in confer- 
ence to decide what should be done. Some desired one method and 
mode of baptism, some another. They finally reached an agreement. 
To quote the minister: "After considering the matter from all sides, 
we concluded that since all the churches of the East baptize infants 
we also would adopt that practise, so as to avoid friction." He made 
no reference to the Bible standard on this subject, but merely said 
*'we considered" and "we concluded." 

Take, for example, an educational institution which seeks to enroll 
students from among the Moslems, Druses, Jews, Maronites, Gre- 
^orians, and the Greek Orthodox. Now, a school conducted merely 
as a school could perhaps be accommodated successfully to the de- 
mands of these various classes of people; but when the attempt is 
made to give the institution a Christian missionary character, it is 
•evident that doctrinal distinctiveness and exclusiveness must be sacri- 
ficed. Instructors and preachers who have definite convictions of 
truth must of necessity suppress them or merely mention them in an 
apologetic, timid way. A certain college student who attended our 
meetings and heard clear, definite teaching said to me, "Our preach- 
ers dare not preach the truth as you are preaching it." If a school 
is so situated that its students must be drawn chiefly from among the 
Greek Orthodox, its favor with the people and its ultimate success 
will be more certain if it is so conducted that the Greek bishop and 
priests will be free to occupy the chief seat of honor on special occa- 
sions. I have investigated this matter carefully, and observation and 
•experience convinces me that the officials of schools dare not publicly 
endorse and practise a full, distinctive gospel. 

I have no disposition to criticize educational work as such. In 
this respect Protestant missionary societies are doing a grand work 
j,.jjg^j in the East, a work that is helpful and elevating to 

Suggestion the country. And their methods tub.^ be the m-.'th- 

^^*^ ods best adapted to the character of their message 

and work. But this I say: that we who have been 
entrusted with greater light and who believe in preaching and prac- 
tising a full gospel, should- not make the fatal mistake of limiting 
our message in an effort to conform to their methods. Their meth- 
ods have created a sentiment to the effect that missionary work is 
maintaining schools, and maintaining schools is missionary work ; but 
we should not allow such sentiment to direct us into an effort to make 
a showing also by emulating Protestants in their building-operations. 



382 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Let us follow the apostolic example and raise up churches; then 
when strong churches are established, we can also establish schools, 
if need be, and do the same kind of work that Protestant schools are 
doing — educate children \ but with this difference: these schools, be- 
ing composed of those who are favorable to the truth (though not 
necessarily limited to such), would not be subject to traditional 
sentiment. The result would be that instead of school-work going 
before and limiting the message of God's pure gospel, that work of 
the church for which Christ died would be placed in its proper posi- 
tion — in front. 



HOMEWARD BOUND 



HOMEWARD BOUND 



Before leaving America, we had decided to return in the early 

Leavins Svria P^'i't of the year 1914. Accordingly, in the month 

of March we made our plans to bid farewell to the 

dear ones whom we had learned to love in Syria, and to sail homeward. 

On the morning of our departure, March 29, a large number of 
our friends and neighbors gathered at our house, and the sadness of 
parting resembled that of a funeral. Although Sister Hittle and 
Sister Laughlin had made arrangements to move into the house that 
we had occupied and to continue the meetings as before, those whio 
were so closely united to us by the bonds of spiritual love and fel- 
lowship in Christ felt our departure keenly, and a number of them 
came to Beirut and went with us out to the ship. I was reminded 
of the farewell at Miletus of Paul and the elders of the church who 
"accompanied him unto the ship." And how could I know but that 
I might also say with propriety, "and now, behold, I know that ye 
all, among whom I have gone preaching the kingdom of God, shall 
see my face no more".'^ 

After a final and painful farewell our loved ones disappeared, and 
we swung out into the open sea. Then we took a parting view of the 
charming; scenery on the shore. On the plain before 
Vovaee ^^ stately palm-trees lifted their heads, and here exten- 

sive olive-orchards were spread out; back of these 
rose the slopes of the Lebanon, dotted here and there with villages — 
and Shweifat, the scene of our residence and of many, many inter- 
esting personal experiences. But the sea was rough, and soon we 
were all confined to our room by seasickness. This annoying exper- 
ience marred our anticipated pleasure of the trip down the Syrian 
coast. There were many pilgrims on the steamer, bound for Jeru- 
salem; but when we reached Jaffa, the sea was so violent that passen- 
gers could not be landed. For hours we remained at anchor in the 
open sea, waiting for a lull in the storm, which never came; so finally 
the vessel proceeded to Port Said without disembarking her passen- 
gers. We were glad to step ashore in Egypt. 

385 



386 MISSIONARY JOURNEYS THROUGH BIBLE LANDS 

Proceeding to Cairo, we held meetings there for about ten days. 

At this time Haigouhi Ouzounian, daughter of Brother Ouzounian, 

In Egypt decided to accompany us to America, that she might 

become better acquainted with the work and receive 

the advantages of spiritual training in this country. 

Brother Ouzounian accompanied us to Alexandria, where we spent 
a few days in meetings with the church; then on April 15 we bade, 
the dear saints of Egypt farewell, and embarked on the North Ger- 
man-Lloyd steamship Prinz Heinrich. As our vessel sailed out of the 
harbor and the last view of our brethren in Christ faded away, I re- 
marked that this separation from the saints in the East was even 
more painful than was our farewell to the saints of America, and 
even to our own relatives, when we departed Eastward-bound; for 
then we expected to return in a comparatively short time, but this 
separation might be final. 

On the 18th we arrived in Naples. Here we spent some time in 
the city itself; in making an ascent of the neighboring volcano. 
In Italy Mount Vesuvius, then in eruption; and in visiting the 

excavations of Pompeii. On August 24, 79 A. D., 
Pompeii, a city of about 30,000 inhabitants, was completely buried by 
a fierce eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Herculaneum, another city, 
was also buried by the same eruption. During the middle ages the 
site of Pompeii remained unknown; but in 1748 some accidental dis- 
coveries drew attention to the site again, and since 1860 regular 
excavations have been in progress. Here we walked the paved streets 
along which Roman chariots rolled many centuries ago, and the ruts 
worn by the wheels are clearly seen. We entered the houses of thd 
rich, the walls of which are still decorated with the well-preserved 
paintings of ages ago. Many of these paintings are decidedly ob- 
scene, insomuch that to some of the rooms admittance is granted to 
men only. This is proof that the inhabitants of the city were highly 
immoral. 

After a short stop at Rome we went to Paris, where we spent some 
pg^^jg time in viewing the sights of the city — its avenues, 

parks, and palaces — and in visiting the Tomb of Na- 
poleon, the famous art galleries of the Louvre, the Tuileries, and 
other places. 

In response to the request of the German brethren we again vis- 
Essen Germany ^^^^ Essen, Germany, and spent about ten days with 
them. Brother and Sister Arbeiter came from Switz- 
erland in order to be in the meetings with us, and God gave us a very 



HOMEWARD BOUND 387 

precious and profitable time. We shall always remember the special 
kindness of Brother and Sister Doebert and the other dear brethren 
and sisters there. We felt sorry when the time came to leave them. We 
appreciated the company of Sister Haigouhi Ouzounian while on the 
Continent; for being able to speak Italian, French, and German, as 
well as English, she was able to act as our interpreter while traveling. 
We went directly from Germany to London, England, where we 
stopped a short time, and then went on to Birkenhead. Here we re- 
mained for some time in meetings with the saints, 
and S^tland Bro. W. H. Cheatham came from Ireland in order to 
be with us at that time. God blessed the meeting's 
very much. In response to a request from Bro. Adam Allan I made 
a side-trip to Aberdeen, Scotland, and had a few services with the 
church there. I then returned to Birkenhead. 

One feature of the meetings in England and Scotland which was 
specially enjoyable to us was the fact that we were now able to 
preach and work freely without the necessity of an interpreter. It 
seemed a relief to be able to pour out our heart's burden directly to 
the people. 

On the 21st day of May we embarked at Liverpool on the White 
Star Line steamship Baltic, bound for New York. On the first night 
out of Liverpool we encountered a dense fog, and had the misfortune 
to collide with and injure a small steamer. I was informed that as 
a result of the accident the small boat was leaking badly, but the 
crew refused to leave it. I never learned its fate. We took on our 
steamer one member of their crew, whose hand was crushed in the 
accident. Much of the time we had foggy weather during our pas- 
sage over the Atlantic, but we had no further accidents. 

On the morning of May 30 we arrived safely in New York. We 
went out to the Missionary Home, where special meetings were 
Arrival Home being held, and we remained with them over Sun- 
day. Monday we took train for Michigan; and 
the next day, June 2, we were rejoiced to be once more in the com- 
pany of our relatives at our home near Grand Junction. 



INDEX 



Abana 249 

Abel, Dr. 38 

Aberdeen, Scotland 387 

Abila Lysaniae 251 

Abilene 251 

Aboukir, battle of 31 

Abu-bekr 271 

Abydos 279 

Abyssinian Monastery 136 

Acropolis (Athens) 88, 90, 91 

Adana 284, 344 

Addison, Joseph 32 

quoted 41, 46 
Adele 354, 355 
Adramyti, Gulf of 281 
Adrian, Emperor, 126 
Adrianople 278, 342 
Adriatic Sea 68, 85 
>^gean Sea 96, 261, 262, 265, 279 
Areogapus (Mar's Hill) 88, 89 
Agamemnon, king of Greece, 90, 94 
Agincourt, battle of 35 
Agrippa, Marcus 75 
Aitat 296 . 
Akka, Bay of 241 
Akra, Mountain 142 
Aksa Mosque 140. 152 
Albigenses 81 
Alcibiades 93 
Alexander V. Pope 58 
Alexander VI, Pope 67 
Alexander the Great 25, 27, 97 
Alexander Sarcophagus 274 
Alexandretta 285 

Alexandria 30, 97-102, 114, 379 
Alexandrian Library 98, 99 

destroyed 1 02 
Alfieri 55 



Algiers 114 

Ali 271 

Allan, Adam 22, 387 

Allan, Roland, quoted. 369, 372-376 

Ambrose, St. 52-54 

Amrou 1 02 

Ananias, house of (Damascus) 248 

Andre, Maj. John 42 

Angelo, Michael 55, 66, 74 

Anthony, St. 280 

Anti-Lebanon Mountains 25 1 

Antioch 285-288 

Antioch, Lake of 285 

Antiochus 125, 126, 286, 288 

Antonia, fortress of 154 

Antoninus Pius 252 

Antony, Mark 84, 165 

Apelles 262 

Apostles' Spring 161, 172 

Appian Way 61, 62. 65 

Appius Claudius 61 

Arazzi, Galleria degli 68 

Arbeiter, Karl 47, 48, 386 

Arbela, battle of 27, 28 

Argonauts 277 

Arian heresy 53 

Aristophanes 96 

Aristotle 29, 87 

Armanious. Mosad. 341 

Arno 54. 56 

Artaxerxes III 109, 275 

Artemis 25 

Artemisia 25. 262 

Arundel 37 

Asian. M. G. 342. 343 

Assos 281 

Assyrian Room 27. 28 

Aswad, Zahia, 354 

Athanasius 102 



388 



INDEX 



389 



Athena 89, 92 
Athene PoHas, temple of, 25 
Athens 25, 86-96, 270 
Athens, Gulf of 87 
Athos, Mountain 280 
Attica, Plain of 87, 90 
Atticus Herodes 95 
Aubigny, Philip 'd' 133 
Augustine, St. 52 
Aurelius, Marcus 251, 265 
Austerlitz, battle of 53 
Averof, N. 95 

B 

Baalbeck 251-258, 270 

Baba, Cape 281 

Babylon, captured 27 

Babylonian Room 27, 28 

Bacchylides 29 

Bach 33 

Bacon, Sir Francis 31, 32 

Baldwin IV 121 

Balliol. John 45 

Barada 249. 251 

Barcochba 1 22, 1 26 

Baronius 67 

Bayazid I 278 

Beautitudes, Mount of, see Karn Hattin 

Beauchamp Tower 34, 36 

Beaumont, quoted 47 

Bedouins 245, 294 

Beethoven 33 

Behistun, inscription at 27 

Beilan Pass 285 

Beirut 109, 113, 289, 327, 328 

Beisan 244 

Beitin 199 

Belfast 22 

Belisarius 84 

Bell Tower 34 

Belshazzar, proof of 27, 28 

Benedict XIII, Pope 58 

XIV 80 

XV 72 



Ben-hadad 216, 220 

Benjamin of Tudela, quoted 188, 189 

Bertini, painter 51 

Bethany 172-174, 296 

Bethel 199-201. 242, 243 

Bethesda, Pool of 155 

Bethlehem 180-183 

Bethsaida 237 

Bettir 1 22 

Bezetha, Mount 142 

Bin Bir Direk, cistern 275 

Birkenhead, England 387 

Black Sea 277, 278, 344 

Bliss. F. J., quoted 295. 297, 311 

Bloody Tower 34 

Boleyn. Anne 31. 33. 34, 35, 38 

Boniface III 313 

Boniface IV, Pope 75 

Bosphorus 266. 267 

Bradshaw 46 

Brech, Simon 45 

Brindisi 63, 84, 85 

British Museum 24-33, 275 

Brousilian, Brother 346 

Browning, Robert 42 

Brummana 354 

Bruno, Giordano 80 

Bucharest 265, 278, 342 

Buckingham, Duke of 34 

Buckingham Palace 38 

Budrum 262 

Burke, Edmond 31 

Byron, Lord 32, 279 

Byzantium 266 



Caesar, Augustus 83 

Claudius 23, 60 

Julius 84 

Temple of 84 
Caesarea 117, 241, 281 

Cairo 26, 102-107, 114-116, 304. 
386 



390 



INDEX 



Calvary, see Golgotha 
Calvin, John 32 
Campanile 56 
Cana of Galilee 228, 229 
Canning, George 43 
Capernaum 236, 237 
Carlyle 32 
Capotolina i^lia 126 
Capua 63 
Caria 23 

Carmel, Mount 118. 120. 219, 224. 
239-241 

Carrey, Jacques 93 
Carthage 52 
Catacombs 61 
Cathedrals : 

St. Paul's (London) 38 

St. Peter's (Rome) 65-67 

Milan, Italy 49-51 

Florence, Italy 55 

Pisa, Italy 57 

Russian (Jerusalem) 157 

Catherine of Aragon 31, 36, 38 
Chalcedon 266, 276 
ChampoUion 27 
Chanak 279 
Chapels : 

of the Ascension 144 

St. Benedict 43, 44 

Confessor's 40, 41. 43 

St. Edmund 44 

Henry VII's 41,45,46 

Holy Sepulcher 133 

St. Helena 135, 136 

of the Innocents 182, 183 

St. Jerome 183 

St. John 36 

St. George 35 

of the Manger 182 

of St. Peter 34, 38 

Sistine 72, 73 
Charing Cross 23 
Charlemagne 52, 65 



Charles I 46 

II 33, 35, 46 

V 31 
Chatham, Earl of 43 
Chaucer 42 

Cheatham, W. H. 22, 387 
Cheops, pyramid of 104 
Cherith, brook of 163 
Chios, Island of 282 
Chorazin 237 
Chrysostom 287 
Churches: 

of St. Ambrose (Milan) 52, 53 

St. Croce (Florence) 55 

St. Peter's (Rome) 65-67 

Lateran 80 

Holy Sepulcher 132-135, 194 

Redeemer 1 36 

St. Stephen 138 

of the Creed 144 

of the Lord's Prayer 144 

St. Mary Magdalene 145 

St. Anne 154 

of the Virgin 159 

St. James 159 

of the Nativity 182, 183, 194 

St. John 218 

of the Annunciation 224 

St. Irene 272 

St. Peter's (Antioch) 288 
Churches of the East: 

origin 313, 314 

Greek Orthodox 

doctrines and practises 315- 
317 

Maronite 

doctrines and practises 318- 
322 

Protestant 322-324 
Cicero 52 
Cimabue 57 
Cimon 91 
Clarendon 47 
Claypole, Elizabeth 46 



INDEX 



391 



Clement of Alexandria 102 
Clement of Rome 30, 60 
Cleopatra, Queen 165 
Codex Alexandrinus 30 

Sinaiticus 30 

Vaticanus 30, 70 
Coele-Syria 25 1 
Colchis 277 
Coleridge 32 
Colosseum 76—80 
Colossus of Rhodes 262 
Como 49 

Condivi, Ascanio, quoted 73, 74 
Condor, quoted 138 
Constance, Council of 58 
Constantine the Great 23, 30, 52, 65, 

126. 144, 152, 252, 266 
Consantinople 30, 265-276 
Constanza 276, 278 
Corinth 86 

Gulf of 85, 86 

Isthmus of 86, 87 
Coronation Chair 44, 45 
Cos 262, 282 
Costius Caius 61 
Councils, General 268, 276 
Cowper, William 32 
Crete 97 
Crete, George 42 
Croesus 25 

Cromer, Lord, quoted 302 
Cromwell, Oliver 31,34,45,46 
Cyanean Rocks 277 



Damascus 247-250 
Dan 243 
Dante 55 
Darazi, Ismael 299 
Dardanelles 265, 278, 279 
Darius I 27. 275. 277 
Darwin, Charles 32, 42 
David's Well 180. 182 



Dead Sea 124, 142, 163. 170-172. 

234 
De Foe, Daniel 32 
Delos 270 
Demosthenes 266 
Dera 245 

Devereux, Robert 38 
Diana 25 

Temple of 282 
Dickens, Charles 32, 42 
Dikili 282 

Diocletian, Emperor 276 
Dionysius, theater of 95, 96 
Dionysus 262 
Disraeli, Benjamin 31 
Doebert. Otto 47, 387 
Dorcas, grave of 118 
Dothan 219 
Druses 193, 295, 297 

doctrines and beliefs 297—301 
Dryden 32 
Dudley, Robart 37 

John 37, 38 

Brothers — Robert, Ambrose, 
Guilford, Henry 38 



Eannatum 275 

Ebal, Mount 204. 206, 214 

Edrei 245 

Edward the Confessor 39. 40. 44 

Edward I 40. 44 

III 44 

IV 42 

V 34, 42, 46, 47 

VI 42 

Egypt, history of 27 
in prophecy 109 
Egyptian Room 26 
Ekron 121 
El-Bireh 199 
Elgin Room 25. 92 
El Hakim 299 
Eliot, George 32 



392 



INDEX 



Elisha's Fountain 164 

Elizabeth, Queen 31. 34, 37. 42. 45. 

46 
El-Lubban 204 
El-Maan 245 
Endor 222 
Engannim 219 
Engedi, wilderness of 171 
Ephesus 25, 264. 270, 282 
Ephesus Room 25 
Erasmus 32 
Esarhaddon, King 207 
Eschylus 87, 96 

Esdraelon, Plain of 1 24, 2 1 9-222. 244 
Es-Salehiyeh 248 
Essen 47, 386 
Eth-Baal, king of Tyre 239 
Ethelgoda, queen of Essex 43 
Eudoxia, Empress 1 38 
Eupator. Antiochus 186 
Euphrates 293 
Euripides 87, 96 
Eusebius, quoted 144 
Euxine 277 



Fair Haven 97 
Fatima, grave of 248 
Flavian Amphitheater 76-80 
Flodden, battle of 31 
Florence. Italy 54, 55 
Forum. Roman 83 
Fountain of the Virgin 195 
Fox. Charles James 31. 43 
Frederick the Great 31 



Galita 266 

Galilee, Sea of 231-239. 244 

Galileo 32, 55. 56. 57. 80 

Gallipoli 278 

Gathelus. Kink 45 

Gath-hepher 228 

Genseric 84 



George V. King 45 



Gerizim, Mount 204. 206. 208, 209 
Gethsemane. Garden of 191. 192 
Gezer 121 

Gibeah of Benjamin 199 
Gibbon, Edward 32 

Gilgal 242 

Gilgamesh 28 

Gipsies 1 93 

Gizeh, pyramids of 26, 102—105 

Gladstone, Wm. E. 43 

Glengormly 22 

Goethe 33 

Golden Horn 266 

Golgotha 132. 135 

Gordon's 138. 140 
Gordon's Calvary, see Golgotha 
Goshen, land of 107. 108 
Gregory the Great 313 
Gregory XII, Pope 58 
Grey, Lady Jane 31. 33, 34. 38 
Grottoes : 

of Jeremiah 141 

of Samson 122 

of St. James 193 

of Elijah 241 
Gumuldjina 278. 342 

H 

Hadrian, Emperor 122, 152 
Haifa 239 
Hale, Alice V. 22 
Halicarnassus 262 

Mausoleum of 25, 26, 262 
Halirrhotius 89 
Hamilton, Sir William 31 
Hamze 299 
Harmachis 1 06 
Handel 33 

Haram esh-Sherif 1 30, 1 45-1 54. 1 94 
Harvey, William 32 
Hastings. Warren 31, 32 
Hastings, Lord 38 
battle of 24 



INDEX 



393 



Hauran 244, 245 
Hebron 186-189 

mosque at 193 
Helena 81, 132, 135, 182, 273 

chapel of 135, 136 
Heliopolis 270 
Helespont 279 
Henry III 39 

IV, King of Navarre 31 

V 35, 44 

VI 34 

Vli 35, 42, 46 

VII's Chapel 41 

VIII 30, 31. 33, 36, 38,40 
Hera 106 
Herculaneum 386 
Hermon, Mount 171, 204, 224, 235, 

247 
Herod 117, 126, 151, 165, 183,216, 

217,238 
Herodotus 104, 105, 108, 262 
Herostratus 25 

Herschel, Sir John Frederick 42 
Hezekiah's Pool 131 
Hinnom, Valley of 125, 128, 196 
Hippo 52 
Hippocrates 262 

Hiram, king of Tyre 109, 117, 241 
Hittle, Bessie L. 19, 116, 261, 352, 

385 
Holy Roman Empire 65, 66 

Homer 29, 87, 97, 264 

Honorius, Emperor 78 
Hortensius 52 
Howard, Philip 37 

Queen Catherine 34, 35, 38 
Hughes, Rev. T. P., quoted 304-306 
Hugo, Victor 32 
Humbert I, king of Italy 75 
Hume, David 32 
Huss, John 58 
Hyperides 29 
Hyrcanus, John 207, 216 



I 

Ibrahim Basha 300 

Ibrahim, Sultan, tomb of 141 

Iconoclasts 268 

Ignatius 287 

Iliad 29, 86 

Imbros, Island of 279 

Imperial Ottoman Museum 272-275 

Inn, Good Samaritan 161 

Inscriptions, Room of Greek and Latin 

25 
Irene, Empress 276 
Ireton 46 

Irving, Sir Henry 42 
Ismailiyeh 193, 295, 296 
Ismid 276 

Gulf of 276 



Jacob's Well 204 
Jaffa 116-120, 385 
James I 46 

II 36, 45 

Jebb, Prof., quoted, 101 

Jehosophat, valley of 125, 128, 130, 
142, 192, 194-196 

Jehu 28 

Jenin 219 

Jericho 163-165, 172 
modern 165-167 

Jerome, St. 183, 233 
of Prague 58 

Jerusalem 

Natural situation 122-125 
Historical Sketch 125-127 
Modern city and environs 128— 
160, 172-177, 191-196 

Jerusalem Stela 273 

Jews 193, 295, 312 

Jezreel 220, 244 

Job's Well 196 

John XI, Pope 67 

John, bishop of Constantinople 314 



394 



INDEX 



Johnson, Samuel 42 

Joppa, see Jaffa 

Jordan 167-170, 234, 244 

Plain of 167 
Joseph's Tomb 204 
Josephus 99, 138 
Jowett, Prof., quoted 100 
Judas, house of (Damascus) 248 
Julian the Apostate 152, 284. 287 
Julius II 66 
Jupiter, Temple of 

at Rome 32 

at Jerusalem 126, 149, 152 

at Baalbeck 251 
Jureidini, Adele 354, 355 

Sister 355 
Justina 53 
Justinian 84, 268, 270, 272 



Kalymno, Island of 263 

Kant 33 

Kappal, battle of 48 

Karnak, Temple of 114 

KarnHattin 230,231 

Karyae 280 

Kefr-Kenna 228, 229 

Kefun 296 

Kelvib, Lord 42 

KerakNuh 251 

Kerazeh 237 

Keshishian, Nazareth 284 

Kesrouan 296 

Khafra, pyramid of 104, 107 

Khan Minyeh 237 

Khuful 105 

Kidron. valley of 142, 191 

Kishon, brook of 240, 241 

Koran 102, 151, 246, 302 

quoted 149 
Krio, Cape 262 
Kura 296 
Kurds 193 
Kyrenia, Cyprus 346 



Larnaca, Cyprus 346, 347 

Latimer, Hugh 31 

Laughlin, Nellie 352, 285 

Kazar, John 341 

Leander 279 

Lebanon, Mount 19. 109, 117, 289, 

385 
Leibnitz 33 
Leicester, Earl of 38 
Lemnos, Island of 280 
Leo XI, Pope 30 

XIII, Pope 67 
Lero, Island of 263 
Libanius 285, 287 
Lipsos, Island of 263 
Liverpool 22, 388 
Livingstone, David 41 
Locke, John 32 
London 23-47 

Tower of 31,33-38 
Louis II 52 

XIV, 31 
Lovat, Lord 36 
Louvre 386 
Lubiyeh 230 

Luther, Martin 30, 32, 82 
Lycia 283 
Lydda 120, 121 
Lyell, Sir Charles 42 
Lykorgos 95 
Lynch, Leut. 167 
Lysander 279 

M 

Macaulay, Lord 32, 42 

Maccabeus, Judas 186 

Machiavelli 55 

Machpelah, Cave of 188, 189 

Madeba Mosaic 155, 186 

Magdala 237 

Manicheans 52 

Mansford, Dr., quoted 249 



INDEX 



395 



Mantz, Felix 48 

Marathon, battle of 53 

Marmora. Sea of 266, 276, 278 

Maro 318 

Marozia 67 

Mar's Hill 88, 89. 95 

Martin V. Pope 58 

Martyr. Justin 182 

Mary. Queen of Scots 31, 45 

Queen of England 42 
Mary's Well 225 
Mausoleum of Halicarnassus 25, 26, 

273 
Mausolus 80 
Maxentius 80 
Maximilian, Emperor 36 
Mecca 304, 335, 344 
Megiddo 219 
Mendelssohn 33 
Menes 105 

Minerva, Sanctuary of 89 
Melancthon 32 
Melita 97 
Memphis 26, 102 
Menephta 116 
Menkau-Ra 26 

Pyramid of 104, 107 
Merrill, Bishop, quoted 139 
Mersina 283, 344 
Metawali 193, 296, 303 
Milan 49-54 

Cathedral at 49-51 
Milton, John 32 
Minos 97 
Mitylene 281, 282 

Mohammed 121, 150, 151, 246, 271, 
302 

II 268 
Mohammedanism 301-312 

status of women 309, 310, 332 

slavery and concubinage 246, 
311 

contrasted with Christianity 246, 
247 



Monasteries : 

Abyssinian 1 36 

Dominican 1 38 

of Mount Zion 159 

of St, George 163 

of Elijah 240, 241 

on Mount Athos 280 
Monothelite controversy 268 
Monza 49 

More, Sir Thomas 31, 34 
Moriah, Mount 125, 126, 128, 142, 

147 
Moslems 193, 246, 247, 295 

doctrines and practises 302-308 
Mosques : 

Aksa 140, 152 

Omaiyade 249, 250 

Omar 128, 147-151, 152, 249, 
273 

St. Sophia 250, 268-272 
Mozart 33 

Mummies of Egyptian Kings 1 14-1 16 
Mycenae 86, 90 
Myria 283 

N 

Nabonadius 27, 28 

Nabulus 204-214 

Nain 222 

Naples 386 

Napoleon 11, 31, 107, 198, 220 

tomb of 386 
Nazareth 219, 222-225 
Nebi-Musa festival 174 
Nebo, Mount 150 
Nebuchadnezzar 125, 220 
"Needle's Eye" 130 
Nelson, Lord 31 
Nestorianism 268 
Newton, Sir Isaac 32, 41 
Nicholas V 66 
Nicomedia 276 
Nicosia, Cyprus 346, 347 
Nile 27, 102 



396 



INDEX 



Nimrod 28 
Nimrod Saloon 28 
Nineveh 275 

Gallery 28 
Nizer 29 
Nob 199 
Nusairiyeh 193, 295, 296 



Odeion 95 

Odyssey 29 

(Edipus 106 

Olives. Mount of 128, 142-144 

Omaiyade Mosque 249, 250 

Omar 145, 152, 271 

quoted 1 02 

Mosque of 128, 147-151, 273 

Omri 28 

Origen 102 

Ororius 60 

Osman 271 

Ottoman Museum 273-275 

Ouzounian, G. K. 102, 1 14, 237, 261, 

340 
Sister 341 
Haigouhi 386, 387 
Oxyrhyncus 29 



Pagus, Mount 264 

Palermo 57 

Palestine 116-244 

Pambukdjian, Mikail 114,169.244 

Pamphylia 283 

Pantheon 75 

Papyrus MSS. 29, 30 

Paris 386 

Parr, Thomas 42 

Parrhasius 87 

Parthenon 25, 89, 94 

destruction of 92, 93 
Patmos, Island of 263 
Patras, Greece 85 
Paula 183 



Peabody, George 41 
Pelasgians 86 
Pepin 52 
Pers 266 
Pergamos 282 
Pericles 87, 91. 92 
Perugino 55 
Peter the Cruel 35 

the Great 31 

the Hermit 144 
Peter's St. (Rome) 65-67 
Petrarch 55 
Petrograd 30 
Peverel 37 
Phaedo, Plato's 29 
Pharos 98 
Pharpar 247 
Phasael Tower 130 
Phidias 55, 87, 92, 94 
Philargi, Pietro, Cardinal 58 
Philip of Macedon 266 
Philippides 29 
Philo 100 

Philoxenus, cistern of 275 
Phocas, Emperor 313 
Phoenice 97 
Pilate's Staircase 81, 82 
Pindar 87 
Pionius 265 
Piraeus 96 
Pisa, Italy 56-58 

Council of 58 
Pisgah, Mount 163 
Pithom 116 
Pitt, William 31, 43 
Pius IX, Pope 82 

X, Pope 82 
Plataea, battle of 91 
Plato 29, 87, 108 
Pliny 26, 49 
Plutarch, quoted 92 
Polycarp, bishop of Smyrna, 264. 265 
Polygnotus 87 
Pompeii 386 



INDEX 



.'j:)7 



Pools: 

Hezekiah 131 

Bethesda 1 55 

Solomon 183—186 

Gihon 184 

Siioam 184. 195 

Birket es-Sultan 189 
Pope 32, 41 
Port Said 385 
Potidaea 25 
Praxitiles 55, 87 
Priene 25 

Prinkipo, Island of 276 
Propyl ae a 93 
Ptolemy Euergetes 30 

V 26 

Soter 98 

Philadelphius 99 
Pyramids, Egyptian 26,102-105,114 

of Zacharias 193 
Pythagoras 1 08 



Quaratana, Mount 165 
Quarries, Royal 140, 141 



Rachel's Tomb 177 

Raleigh, Sir Walter 31, 32, 34, 36 

Rameses 116 

II 114 
Ramleh, Er 121 
Raphael 55, 69, 70, 15 

Stanze 70 

Logge 72 
Rawlinson, Sir Henry 27 
Rayak 251 
Red Sea 116 
Remus 58 

Rephaim, valley of 122 
Rhine 47 
Rhodes 261, 282, 283 

Colossus at 262 



Richard II 44 
III 42 

Rockford, Jane Viscountess 38 

Rome 30, 58-84 

Romulus 58 

Rosetta Stone 26, 27 

Rousseau 32 

Rubens 55 



Sacred Rock 147, 150 

St. Ambrose, church of 52 

St. Augustine 52 

St. Benedict, chapel of 44 

St. Calixtus, catacombs 61 

St. Croce, church 55 

St. Edmund, chapel 44 

St. Edward 35 

St. George, chapel 35 

St. Gotthard railway 48, 49 

St. Irene, church of 272 

St. James, grotto of 193 

St. John, chapel 36 

St. Paul's Cathedral 38 

St. Peter, sitting statue of 66 
chapel of 34, 38 
church of (Rome) 65-67 
church of (Antioch) 287 

St. Quentin, siege of 38 

St. Sophia, mosque of 250, 268-272 

Saladin 121, 126, 187, 220, 230 

Salamis 262 

battle of 91 

Salim, Mr. 332 

Salisbury, Countess of 38 

Salmone 97 

Salutaris, C. Vibius 25 

Samakh 239, 244 

Samaria, city of 206. 207, 214-218 

Samaritans, sect of 207-214 

Messianic hope of 212, 213 

Samaritan Pentateuch 210-212 

Samos, Island of 263, 282 



398 



INDEX 



Samothrace, Island of 279 

Sarghaya 25 1 

Sargon 275 

Scala Santa 81, 82 

Schick. Dr. 157 

Schliemann, Dr. 93, 279 

School of the prophets 241, 242 

Schubert 33 

Schumann 33 

Schweifat, Mount Lebanon 1 1 3, 258, 

289, 332, 336, 385 
Scone, stone of 44, 45 
Scopus, Mount 142 
Scott, Sir Walter 32 
Scutari 266, 276 
Sebaste 2 1 7 

Sebert, king of Essex 39, 43 
Seleucus Nicator 286 
Sellin, Prof. 163 
Sennacherib 28, 275 
Septuagint Version 99, 101 
Sergius III, Pope 67 
Sesosyris 114 
Setil 114,220 
Seutonius 60 

Seven Wonders 26, 102, 262, 282 
Severus, Julius 122 

Septimus, Arch of 83 
Seymour, Edward 33, 34 

Jane 33 
Shafat 199 
Shalmanezer 28 
Shakespeare 32 
Sharon, Plain of 118, 120 
Shechem 204-214 
Shelley 32 

Sheridan, Richard 31, 42 
Sherif, Haram esh- 145-154, 194 
Shiahs 302 
Shiloh 202 
Shuf 296 
Shunem 222 
Sidon 109, 273, 274 



Siloam inscription 273 

Pool of 195, 273 
Silpius, Mount 288 
Simon the Tanner, house of 118 
Sinai, Mount 30 
Sit-napistim 28 
Sloane, Hans 24 
Smyrna 264, 265, 282 

Gulf of 263, 282 
Socrates 87 

prison of 93 
Solomon's Stables 153, 154 
Somerset, Duke of 33 
Sophocles 87, 96 
Sorek, valley of 121 
Sparta 25 

Spencer, Herbert 32 
Sphinx 105, 106 
Stadion 95 

Stamboul 265-276, 278 
Stanley, quoted 124 

Dean, quoted 208 
Stephens, Alexander 31 
Suez Canal 109 
Suk Wady Barada 251 
Suke-el-Gharb 296, 335, 350 
Suleiman I 279 
Sunni 296, 302 
Sunnin, Mount 329 
Swift 32 

Symmachus of Milan 53 
Symmons, Samuel 32 



Tabitha, grove of 118 
Tabnith Sarcophagus 274 
Tarpeia 75 
Tarpeian Rock 75 
Tarshish 1 1 7 
Tarsus 284, 344 
Tasker, George P. 19 

Minnie 19 
Taurus Mountains 284, 293 



INDEX 



399 



Tabor, Mount 219, 224 

Tel-el-Amarna 275 

Tell Hum 236 

Telemachus 78 

Tello 275 

Temple Area 130, 145-154. 194 

Temples : 

of Augustus 217 

of Bacchus (Baalbeck) 254-256 

of Diana 282 

of Jupiter (Rome) 32 

of (Jerusalem) 126.149.152 

of (Baalbeck) 251.253,254 

Jewish (different) 

of Karnak 114 

of Theseus 89 

of Venus (Baalbeck) 257 

of Vesta (Rome) 61 

of Zeus (Athens) 89 
Tenedos, Island of 281 
Tennyson 32. 42 
Thames 33 
Thebes 114 
Themistocles 9 1 
Theodolinde. Queen 49 
Theodosius the Great 53. 54. 250. 

252 
Theseus. Temple of 89 
Thessalonica 25. 53 
Thompson. Sir William 42 
Thomson. W. M., quoted 193. 194 

345 
Thathmes 220 
Thucydides 87 
Tiberius 233, 243 
Tibneh 202 
Tischendorf 30 
Titian 55 
Titus 76. 126, 138, 152 

Arch of 84 
Tomb of Absalom 192 
Tombs of the Kings 137. 138 
Tophet 196 



Towers : 

Beauchamp 34, 36 

Bell 34 

"Bloody" 

of David 130 

Leaning, of Pisa 56. 57 

of London 31. 33-38 

Wakefield 35 

White 33. 35. 38 
Tozer. quoted 280, 281 
Trajan. Emperor 75, 78 

Column of 75 
Trench, Richard 41, 42 
Tripoli 289 
Troas 281 
Troy 279 
Tuileries 386 
Tyre 109, 117,283 
Tyropoean Valley 125 

u 

Uffizi, Galleria degli 55 
"Unction, Stone of" 133 
Urban VIII, Pope 75 
Usher, Archbishop James 47 



Valentinian II 53 

Vatican 67-74 

Vaudois 81 

Vellum MSS. 29, 30 

Verus, Lucius 251 

Vespasian 76, 118, 126, 220, 233 

Vespucci, Amerigo 55 

Vesta, Temple of 61 

Vesuvius, Mount 386 

Victor III, Pope 67 

Victor Emmanuel II 75 

Victoria, Queen 35, 38 

Victory. Temple of (Athens) 89 

Vinci. Leonardo da 55 

Virgin's Spring 273 

Voltaire 32. 41 

Vyse. Col, 107 



400 



INDEX 



W 

Wadi el-Ajam 247 

Wadi Jifna 202 

Wadi Urtas Valley 183, 184 

Wagner 33 

Wailing-Place. Jews' 174-177 

Wakefield Tower 35 

Waldenses 8 1 

Walpole, Sir Robert 31 

Warwick, Earl of 38 

Waterloo, Battle of 31 

Watts, Dr. Isaac 42 

Wellington, Duke of 31 

Wesley, John 32, 42 

Charles 42 
Westminster Abbey 38-47 
White Tower 33, 35, 38 
Wilberforce, William 43 
William I (the Conqueror) 24, 33, 39 
Wilson, Edward L., quoted 139 
Winterthur 47, 48 
Wortabet, Dr., quoted 316 
Wolsey, Cardinal 31, 33 
Woodville, Elizabeth 47 



Xenophon 87 
Xerxes 262, 279 



Yahfufeh 251 
Yarmuk, valley of 244 
Yereh Batan Serai, cistern 276 
Yezedy 193 



Zacharias, Pyramid of 193 

Zahia 354 

Zahleh 296 

Zeno 87 

Zerin 220 

Zeus, Temple of 89 

Zimridi 275 

Zion, Mount 125, 128, 142 

present state of 157, 158 
Zionist movement 312, 313 
Zurich 48 
Zwingli, Ulrich 48 



